Review/Test of 9A 3-Mode 5.5-12V Circuit board

26 posts / 0 new
Last post
HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Review/Test of 9A 3-Mode 5.5-12V Circuit board
Review/Test of 9A 3-Mode 5.5-12V Circuit board

DSC_3716 DSC_3720

DSC_3719 DSC_3718

DSC_3717




Driver is from Intl-outdoor.com

Official specifications:
  • Suitable for SST-90 and SBT-90 LEDs, Low voltage protection (2cells only), Thermostat protection
  • Input Voltage: 5.5-12V (max 15V)
  • Step-Down (Buck) driver
  • Output current: 9A
  • Constant current
  • Modes: Low-Medium-High (10%-30%-100%)
  • PCB diameter: 24mm
  • Contact board diameter: 26mm
  • Height: 16mm
  • Gold plated contacts
  • Tinned leads
  • Thermal management, overheating protection 55-60C, the light will step down to low mode and flash 1 time each 5 seconds
  • Low voltage protection on 2 cells: at 5.5V the light will step down to low mode and start flashing 2 times each 5 seconds
  • Thermal pad material included





Measurements

Tested with: SST-90
Max. height: 17mm
Diameter: 24 & 26mm.
The driver has high, medium, low.
High: No pwm, only some switching noise at 450kHz.
Medium: 1kHz pwm with 28%
Low: 1kHz pwm with 3.3%
The driver has memory, the actual mode is stored when the light is off for a short time.
When turning off for changing mode, the driver is slight slow to turn on
Driver is buck only
The driver can be used with 2 or 3 LiIon batteries in series.



High

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL

The driver keeps a nice constant output to the led, down to 5.5 volt, where the low battery warning turns on.
The efficiency is not that good, this means the driver needs a lot of cooling.

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HLDriver

Up to 12 watt in the driver, it is a good detail that it has temperature warning.

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HLLed

About 31 watt into the led.

High%20noise

The driver is not fully filtered, some of the switching waveform reach the led, but it is at 450kHz, i.e. invisible.

High%20noise%207.2V

At lower voltage the switching output looks slightly different.

Low%20battery%20warning

The low battery warning is two flashes.



Medium

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL%20medium

Medium uses a lower current and has the same low voltage limit. The actual regulation is done with pwm.
Due to the pwm I cannot do precise voltage measurement on the led, but assumes the voltage is 3.65 volt (See led curve above).

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL%20mediumDriver

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL%20mediumLed


Medium%20pwm

The pwm is at about 1kHz.



Low

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL%20low

At low the driver has a low efficiency at high voltage (There is not much change in input current with voltage).

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL%20lowDriver

9A%203-Mode%205.5-12V%20HL%20lowLed

Low%20pwm

The pwm is at about 1kHz.



Conclusion

The driver does the job, but with only low battery warning for two batteries and the low efficiency I am not that impressed.



Notes

How do I test a led driver
List of all tested drivers

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

I would never believed efficiency was that bad on low and medium, not very impressed with high either. No wonder it has low voltage protection and that some have experienced issues with overheating..

Im not too impressed by the driver, but in some cases it may be the only high output option for its size and output..

Extremely valuable review! Looking forward to more of the driver circuits reviews! Smile

Thanks!

When that is said, I don't think many people are into the SST90, so these numbers are more valuable for those wants to power up 1-3 XM-L2s. Especially one XM-L2 (if the driver is resistor modded for a bit lower output). Would you say that is correct? (that these numbers should be quite similar for an XM-L2.)

As far as I can see/guess with my limited knowledge, efficiency would probably be much better in combination with an MT-G2, especially on low and medium. Any thoughts?

btw, looks like intl-outdoor have stopped selling this driver now..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

This driver looks like it is easy to adjust output current on and it will probably increase the efficiency significantly if the current is reduced.

I do not know how it will handle a MT-G2, due to the higher voltage, but 3 x XM-L2 in parallel would work.

I do not hope to many of the drivers I test, goes out of production, before I publish the review. Doing reviews takes time, also because I do not want to publish a lot of "same product type" reviews, just after each other. I prefer to mix the review types a bit.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

zeremefico
zeremefico's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 03/27/2012 - 02:44
Posts: 1390
Location: Greece

I am go to test one with MT-G2 on copper and see if it works.
How can I reduce the current so I can use it with XM-L2 on copper?

₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪

My YouTube channel

Flashlights & edc gear

K40M F16

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

zeremefico wrote:
I am go to test one with MT-G2 on copper and see if it works. How can I reduce the current so I can use it with XM-L2 on copper?

It has six R200 resistors, remove some of them will probably do it.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Several people have used it with MT-G2. Some reports of overheating issues..

Current can easily be decreased (removing resistors like HKJ said), which probably makes it into one of the most compact 6,5A drivers for say an XM-L2 with the right resistor value.

Its also one of the few drivers that can output 3x3amps to XM-Ls from 2 cells in series without any driver modifications. And that is without any blinky modes, with decent mode spacing and with low voltage protection.

It may not be the best, but I think it deserves to be sold..

The driver (or basically the same driver) can be bought from LCK-LED, but its slightly more expensive than what intl-outdoor sold it for.

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3740
Location: North Carolina

Nice review HKJ. Thanks for sharing your work with all of us. Smile

comfychair
comfychair's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 7 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 05:39
Posts: 6198

I have two of these, supposed to be the same, but one does 9A and the other only did 6.5A. The 9A one came with nine resistors - 3 on one side, and 6 on the other, double stacked. The 6.5A one only has 3 and 3.

http://oi39.tinypic.com/jszh44.jpg

(I changed the inductor-thing on the one on the left for space reasons, it didn't affect the output)

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

comfychair wrote:

I have two of these, supposed to be the same, but one does 9A and the other only did 6.5A. The 9A one came with nine resistors - 3 on one side, and 6 on the other, double stacked. The 6.5A one only has 3 and 3.

You are correct, they are stacked, mine has 9 resistors. If you look very careful on my photos, it can also be seen there.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Look at this  9 amp driver I found from KD, 14,79$... Not the same resistors though..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

RaceR86 wrote:

Look at this  9 amp driver I found from KD, 14,79$... Not the same resistors though..

They look the same (R20 and R200 is the same).

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Yupp! (and you are correct)

Its also sold as a 3A, 5A, and 7A version..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

RaceR86 wrote:

Yupp! (and you are correct)

Its also sold as a 3A, 5A, and 7A version..

 

The 3A and 5A doesn't look like the same driver.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

ledoman
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/25/2010 - 06:27
Posts: 937
Location: Slovenia (EU)

Yes, nine R200. I was wondering if the chip 5241a has been changed somehow. It should have 0.2V sense voltage. I = 0.2/R where R is 0.03333Ohm (9 times R200 in parallel). With 6 resistors R200 you would get 6A. I’ve seen 5241 chip in quite some bicycle lights including famous Magicshine.

So anyone who wants to mod it’s current can simply calculate it from the formula above.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

HKJ wrote:
 

The 3A and 5A doesn't look like the same driver.

whoops, my fault.. 

They are not the same, just very similar. Lower current and single mode.. And instead of wires between the boards, there is two metal rods..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

led4power
led4power's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 52 min ago
Joined: 12/29/2012 - 09:48
Posts: 1331
Location: Croatia,EU

Thermal image would be very nice for all driver tests.

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

led4power wrote:
Thermal image would be very nice for all driver tests.

The problem is that I cannot do it in my test setup, I will have to make another setup for that.

What you will get from a thermal image it not the temperatures (They are meaningless), but what components get hot.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

Ledsmoke
Ledsmoke's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 08/08/2011 - 16:05
Posts: 1995
Location: Denmark

TY Smile

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

crnkin
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 6 months ago
Joined: 03/05/2013 - 17:10
Posts: 263
Location: New Zealand
HKJ wrote:

led4power wrote:
Thermal image would be very nice for all driver tests.

The problem is that I cannot do it in my test setup, I will have to make another setup for that.

What you will get from a thermal image it not the temperatures (They are meaningless), but what components get hot.

Not quite true Smile

Im a certified thermographer and I can tell you within 1% what the temperature of a said component is easily, provided I take the image hehe

Chris

HKJ
HKJ's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/24/2011 - 12:23
Posts: 7448
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

crnkin wrote:
HKJ wrote:

led4power wrote:
Thermal image would be very nice for all driver tests.

The problem is that I cannot do it in my test setup, I will have to make another setup for that.

What you will get from a thermal image is not the temperatures (They are meaningless), but what components get hot.

Not quite true Smile Im a certified thermographer and I can tell you within 1% what the temperature of a said component is easily, provided I take the image hehe Chris

That is not the point. When taking thermal images, I would not have the same cooling as when mounted in a flashlight, i.e. the temperature will not be the same. That is the reason I call the temperature meaningless.

You have to know a bit about what you are measuring on and how it is used, when using the result from a thermal imager.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

crnkin
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 6 months ago
Joined: 03/05/2013 - 17:10
Posts: 263
Location: New Zealand

Ah I see Smile

Far from meaningless, but might be a translation issue

Chris

comfychair
comfychair's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 7 months ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 05:39
Posts: 6198

The hot parts are the mosfet & two diodes(?) on the top surface of the top board. In a light, those have to be in good contact with something substantial or else you get about 5-8 minutes runtime on high before it starts giving the overheat warning. Or, at least the version I have that runs at 9A does. It seems they are highly variable in the output they leave the factory with.

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 11 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

Thanks for the review! I was betting these things were not efficient and therefore creating a lot of heat. Looks like I will wait for another board to come out. Sooner or later someone is going to make a board just for the MT-G2.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

ma_sha1
ma_sha1's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 05/06/2012 - 10:20
Posts: 368
Location: CT

This driver is the Only 9A 3 mode driver for 3×18650.
I used it for my FM3X UT with CBT-90 build, which is one of the few lights I kept. It’s not just big power, long throw, it also have the best beam and tint of all the lights I’ve ever built. It’s very rare to see solid core zero donut on big die.

Unfortunately, the driver just died, This is the 2nd time it happened, and I had copper heat sink made just for the driver. I am not trying it for the 3rd time, unfortunately, still no other 3 mode 9A driver out there.

wight
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 11/27/2013 - 16:40
Posts: 4969
Location: Virginia, USA

ma_sha1 wrote:
This driver is the Only 9A 3 mode driver for 3×18650.
I used it for my FM3X UT with CBT-90 build, which is one of the few lights I kept. It’s not just big power, long throw, it also have the best beam and tint of all the lights I’ve ever built. It’s very rare to see solid core zero donut on big die.

Unfortunately, the driver just died, This is the 2nd time it happened, and I had copper heat sink made just for the driver. I am not trying it for the 3rd time, unfortunately, still no other 3 mode 9A driver out there.

Assuming that the CBT-90 can take rough treatment (high voltage spikes) you could probably consider the HX-1175b1. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/31914 (EDIT: with a piggybacked ATtiny13A for 3-mode & etc)

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DivingLight
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/27/2016 - 16:13
Posts: 1
Location: Germany

Hello,

i have some lamps with this electronic:

Basically it works, but I am thinking about changing the firmware (if possible)
Does anyone know what kind of controller is it?

There are two 8-pin chips. One of them is an EEPROM memory (24c02).
So, the other IC would be the microcontroller.
I don’t think it is a Atmel ATTiny, because that has already an EEPROM integrated.

Does anywone know the controller? Is there a chance to change the firmware?

Regards