Sold out: $20 HD2010 & $15 Convoy C8 copper pills

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Gj
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Werner wrote:
What about this reflector? https://www.fasttech.com/p/1220100 I ask because I have laying it around...

I don't know, I posted the one Geek suggested here.

http://www.fasttech.com/forums/1277302/t/1001903/smo-reflector

crnkin
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I find it easier to sand the pill down than to find a peice of copper to place under the pill to raise it up, and yet another thermal break, but every .5mm higher helps

Chris

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LinusHofmann wrote:
Oh fair point on the pill o-ring groove. Both of my HD2010s (Fandyfire and unmarked Tmart ) didn’t come with an o-ring installed so I didn’t even consider that. Is it just the original genuine Ultrafires that came with that o-ring installed?

It’s chinese lottery, I believe…
But both my HD2010s came with an o-ring at that place. First one a grey Tmart, marked only Cree XM-LT6, some 6 months ago, and second one the black Fasttech Fandyfire, 2 weeks old. The Tmart o-ring broke at first disassembly, the Fasttech one survived.
Tmart light was bad in many ways. Emitter horribly off-center, driver gave spectacular 1.1 A on high… Was meant as a host anyway, so no harm done. My Fasttech one is better, driver centered, direct drive on high with 4.8A at the tailcap with full Enerpower 26650 4500mAh. Nice throw.

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LinusHofmann
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Lottery is right, or rather a crap shoot…I have the same two brands/makes you have except with exactly the opposite opinion of the two. My generic T-mart one was great (albeit black instead of the grey I ordered) and the Fandyfire was rather disappointing (thicker and bigger opening in reflector, off center led, deep led centering ring led etc). It’s very hard to get a good beam profile on that one.
Can be very annoying when you don’t know what to expect.

Is anyone still selling a good grey original HD2010 with Ultrafire branding?

Ouchyfoot
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I was thinking about AMC stacking, but I just got my very first HD2010 in the mail today. It’s a Tangsfire, and it’s giving me a tail reading of 5.3A right out of the box. I don’t think I’ll be switching drivers.

unknown00101
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HarleyQuin wrote:
LinusHofmann wrote:
Oh fair point on the pill o-ring groove. Both of my HD2010s (Fandyfire and unmarked Tmart ) didn’t come with an o-ring installed so I didn’t even consider that. Is it just the original genuine Ultrafires that came with that o-ring installed?

It’s chinese lottery, I believe…
But both my HD2010s came with an o-ring at that place. First one a grey Tmart, marked only Cree XM-LT6, some 6 months ago, and second one the black Fasttech Fandyfire, 2 weeks old. The Tmart o-ring broke at first disassembly, the Fasttech one survived.
Tmart light was bad in many ways. Emitter horribly off-center, driver gave spectacular 1.1 A on high… Was meant as a host anyway, so no harm done. My Fasttech one is better, driver centered, direct drive on high with 4.8A at the tailcap with full Enerpower 26650 4500mAh. Nice throw.

I’m guessing FT took it off their site? Nevermind, they list it as hd2010 without a space. Smile

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I don’t want to derail the thread but does anyone have experience with the Rustu branded version of the HD2010 available from DX
RUSTU R41H

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LinusHofmann wrote:
I don’t want to derail the thread but does anyone have experience with the Rustu branded version of the HD2010 available from DX

Well, it says the circuit is 1A, and actual lumens are only 388.
Circuitry: 1000mA
Brightness: 900lm (manufacturer rated, actual 388lm)
I don’t know if the actual circuit is 1A and high is direct drive, but 388lumens is pretty low.
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Yeah not too worried about the driver and emitter, they’ll be replaced anyway.
I’m just looking for a nice quality grey HD2010 host really.

unknown00101
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LinusHofmann wrote:
Yeah not too worried about the driver and emitter, they’ll be replaced anyway. I’m just looking for a nice quality grey HD2010 host really.

What about a Tmart one for $24-26? I’m trying desperately to resist spending more money this month (Otherwise I would be all over this).

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I'll definitely take the HD 2010 with more internal space for stacking - was already thinking I'd have to drill it out. Since I can actually get 5A out of a 4.9A Nanjg using a Powerizer, I'll definitely be doing it again (and again...).

Ooops - you got me covered already -- thanx!

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Hmm…do you guys want the extra threads?

Or should I increase it to 6 threads instead of 5 so that we still have o-ring space?

This o-ring on the pill is new to me, my HD2010 didn’t come with it and had no idea about it until now.

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crnkin
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Paid for 2 hd2010.

Can you please make sure I get deeper pills that I can stack chips onto?

Cheers,

Chris

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crnkin wrote:
Paid for 2 hd2010.

Can you please make sure I get deeper pills that I can stack chips onto?

Cheers,

Chris

Got it, thanks. Added you to the list. Smile

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Not sure if my post on the last page was missed, can you confirm you have received PP payment. Also add me to the list for the deeper pill for stacking, thanks. Beer

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FmC wrote:
Not sure if my post on the last page was missed, can you confirm you have received PP payment. Also add me to the list for the deeper pill for stacking, thanks. Beer

Whoops, sorry about that. Got your payment and form and added you to the list. Smile

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Tom E
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My thinking on the o-ring, yes, I've seen it there and not there... I don't think it's a good thing having it there - the pill thread/contact is for electrical path and thermal path, so, an o-ring serves no purpose being there. It makes the connection feel tighter, but can't see how it may help the metal to metal bonding on the threads. From the pic, looks like vob left space for it and still got 6 threads.

Dunno - I wouldn't go crazy at this point. Your call to weigh the risk/delay/advantage, etc.

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Thanks for that, I’ve just returned from the shop and unfortunately the machinist said that he wouldn’t be able to increase the number of threads because it was too close to the top. Sorry about that guys, but I think we’ll have to go with 5 threads for now.

Some changes I made today:
-Ensured that when the HD2010 bezel is tightened down, the stock 16mm PCB has a snug fit and the 20mm copper Noctigon has a solid fit.
-Allocated 25 HD2010 pills for the extended driver space and 15 HD2010 pills for the regular profile (stock 8x AMC7135 and East-92) drivers.
-The PCB contact area will have a nice smooth finish for both pills.

We’re initiated production, will update you guys on further progress.

Thanks!

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scotlarock
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Hi Ryan, I’ve already ordered and paid. I need the deeper pill please. Thanks for the effort on this!

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scotlarock wrote:
Hi Ryan, I’ve already ordered and paid. I need the deeper pill please. Thanks for the effort on this!

Added, thanks!

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Ford Prefect
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Payment sent for 1 x HD2010 Cu heatsink

Thanks again!

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Nice work Ryan, you’re really staying on top of this…Well Done!

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Ford Prefect wrote:
Payment sent for 1 x HD2010 Cu heatsink

Thanks again!

PP and form received, thanks!

DBCstm wrote:
Nice work Ryan, you’re really staying on top of this…Well Done!

My college apps are all done so it’s only a matter of time now. Smile

Cheers guys!

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LinusHofmann
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I’m sure others will probably do the same but I’ll definitely be doing a before and after extended run (temp/output(lux) comparison on my 6A nanjg HD2010 (draws 5.84A on a fresh Kinoko IMR 18650). I’m keen to see what real world difference the copper pill actually makes in this host.

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I’d like to see not only what run time difference it makes, but how it affects output during that time. The emitter will obviously be staying cooler, longer, so what would the out-the-front numbers look like while the run time test was being conducted? I don’t have measuring equipment to conduct this kind of test or I’d be all up into it my own self! Smile

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LinusHofmann wrote:
I'm sure others will probably do the same but I'll definitely be doing a before and after extended run (temp/output(lux) comparison on my 6A nanjg HD2010 (draws 5.84A on a fresh Kinoko IMR 18650). I'm keen to see what real world difference the copper pill actually makes in this host.

Maybe you posted bout this light mod, dunno, if so, do you have a link? Didn't think 5.84A on a stacked up Nanjg was possible in a single cell, at least for a high Vf demand setup with an XM-L2/copper. Copper pill should benefit this setup. I got my vob copper pill measured at 5A using a Powerizer 26650 or SONY 26650. Don't have Kiniko IMR's though - are they less internal resistance than a Samsung 20R?

Edit - ohh, the HKJ review indicates it's the same as a Pana CH. I can't get near 5A, yet alone 6A with a cell that high in resistance (0.08 vs 0.04 for a 20R) - in this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25154, you mention a HD2010 with an XML U2-1C, if so, then yes - can be done...

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Like I said, I’m getting 5.3A on a stock unmodded HD2010 with a FourSevens Protected 26650. I haven’t been able to find a single review on this cell. I wonder who the manufactures this cell is.

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Ouchyfoot wrote:
Like I said, I'm getting 5.3A on a stock unmodded HD2010 with a FourSevens Protected 26650. I haven't been able to find a single review on this cell. I wonder who the manufactures this cell is.

On the stock East-092 driver with the stock XML/alum, I can see that - yes. Still for a protected cell, that's good. If it's 4000 mAh rated, it may be a KK cell so already has a good low resistance foundation, then if the protection circuit is well designed, you are good there. KP will OEM also, so the FourSevens could just be a KP under their own label.

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Tom E wrote:

LinusHofmann wrote:
I’m sure others will probably do the same but I’ll definitely be doing a before and after extended run (temp/output(lux) comparison on my 6A nanjg HD2010 (draws 5.84A on a fresh Kinoko IMR 18650). I’m keen to see what real world difference the copper pill actually makes in this host.

Maybe you posted bout this light mod, dunno, if so, do you have a link? Didn’t think 5.84A on a stacked up Nanjg was possible in a single cell, at least for a high Vf demand setup with an XM-L2/copper. Copper pill should benefit this setup. I got my vob copper pill measured at 5A using a Powerizer 26650 or SONY 26650. Don’t have Kiniko IMR’s though – are they less internal resistance than a Samsung 20R?

Edit – ohh, the HKJ review indicates it’s the same as a Pana CH. I can’t get near 5A, yet alone 6A with a cell that high in resistance (0.08 vs 0.04 for a 20R) – in this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25154, you mention a HD2010 with an XML U2-1C, if so, then yes – can be done…

Yes sorry I should have been more clear. It’s an original XML U2 on copper from led-tech. I have yet to step into doing single cell high output stuff with an XML2 so I wouldn’t know as well as you what’s doable with those emitters.
I’ll also say that I only get this high a sustained current on those kinoko IMR cells, my Trustfire 26650 5000mahs max out at about 5.4 for one and 5.15 for the other older one. They also drop faster from there.
I’m also still using the stock very thin emitter cables that came with the HD2010 so I could probably get closer to the total potential those 16×7135s if I upgraded there. 6A sounds very doable especially on those Samsung 20R Smile

Ouchyfoot
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I tested two new fully charged unprotected KK ICR26650 against two Protected FourSevens 26650, and the unprotected KK couldn’t get past 4.9A.

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