DIY Driver East-092 style (AMC7135 and DMG6968U)

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tivo532
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DIY Driver East-092 style (AMC7135 and DMG6968U)

ohaya wrote:
tivo532 wrote:
Ohaya sent me one East-092 for testing and was able to reproduce the problem on getting stuck to HI mode.
Did a quick experiment:

1. De-soldered and lifted Pin#1 of East-092 FET (06N06):
2. Using one of my spare Zilog MCU driver with the same code as above:

  • Connect Vbat+ to East-092 Vbat+
  • Connect Vbat – to East-092 Vbat -
  • Connect MCU PWM pin to East-092 Pin#1

3. Power up and can cycle to different modes and groups as shown in the table above. Moonlight is working fine. With Bench PS: 4.1V, direct connection(no switch), I’m getting 4.4-4.6A. Not getting hot with PCB floating in the air. Should be better when in a pill or flashlight.

I might switch to this format as soldering several 7135s is a pain!

Beer

This might be interesting – a new source for a DD driver like the old EAST-092, but with more “modern” modes and mode groups?

Maybe you should start a new thread on this development?

Latest Build Documentation:
TiVo532-092A_LED_Driver_1.0.pdf

TiVo532-092A_LED_Driver_1.0.zip (installation software and docs)

Edited by: tivo532 on 02/05/2014 - 13:58
tivo532
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The resistor and zener on the left are for 2× 18650. Have not tested it yet. Will remove D1 if 2 Batts. If one batt will not populate left two components. Beer

tivo532
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Need inputs to improve layout. Beer

leaftye
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I like this idea.  It'll be nice to have something that does true direct drive without a lot of stacking, but still have a decent low, and hopefully not have the current rising problem that 7135's seem to have.


What size is the board?  Given the new copper pills recently made available, what do you think about making the boards 17mm, but with enough of a ground ring that can be filed down to still work in the standard HD2010 pill?

The low mode should be lower.

tivo532
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Hi Leaftye,

Yes it is 17mm. What is the HD2010 driver size?

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Disregard.  It's 17mm.  Maybe I gave too much blood yesterday. Big Smile

The low mode should be lower.

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FmC
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Subscribed Beer

This looks interesting.

nitro
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I Like this as well Smile

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Ooh, boy! Subscribed.

I look forward to a chance to combine this with Tofty’s 10a switch and Mattaus’s silver plated copper P-60.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

ryansoh3
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Good to see some proper DD drivers. Smile

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

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Forgive me if this is obvious to everyone else but me, Tivo532, are you going to make these and (A) offer them for purchase? (B) Show us how you did it and link us to where you sourced your parts? I think either or both A and B would be really cool.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

gorky
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Cool stuff, keep it up Smile

Werner
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Looks interesting

With which layout program did you make the layout?
I started a similiar project with eagle but didn’t knew how to make a round PCB and the layout.
If a atmel mcu is used we could use drJones superb software like on a nanjg.

What is D2 good for?
I see no gate pulldown resistor to prevent the gate charging up?
Another thing texaspyro has told me is that we only get a small average current but the led sees spikes of the full current all the time.
Have you tested a mcu output direct to the led? Would this work as moonlight?

tivo532
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scottyhazzard wrote:
Forgive me if this is obvious to everyone else but me, Tivo532, are you going to make these and (A) offer them for purchase? (B) Show us how you did it and link us to where you sourced your parts? I think either or both A and B would be really cool.

Hi Scotty,

Option B. It’s a DIY project and would like to share this to whoever are interested. Like an open source software. Smile
Beer

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Werner wrote:
Looks interesting

With which layout program did you make the layout?
I started a similiar project with eagle but didn’t knew how to make a round PCB and the layout.
If a atmel mcu is used we could use drJones superb software like on a nanjg.

What is D2 good for?
I see no gate pulldown resistor to prevent the gate charging up?
Another thing texaspyro has told me is that we only get a small average current but the led sees spikes of the full current all the time.
Have you tested a mcu output direct to the led? Would this work as moonlight?

Hi Werner,

1. I think he’s using Allegro but I’ll double check when I get back to work.
2. I used Zilog MCU as I’m familiar with it and like to do it myself(DIY). I was reading the forum when Ohaya ask me if can take a look at the East-092 problem they were seeing and did some experiments as posted in the OP. I’ll post here a video of the actual testing.
3. D2 was in the original East-092 and carried it over in the circuit. Discussion about this diode here.
4. Good one on the gate pulldown. I’ll add that to the circuit and re-layout the PCB.
5. Not sure what you meant by testing the MCU output direct to the LED.
6. Yes it works in moonlight mode. See original post.

Beer

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Here’s a video of the testing I did for the OP. I’m just showing here the changing modes from 3% > 35% > 100%.

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The idea of building a driver like this has been a fantasy of mine for quite a while. I say fantasy because I have no idea how to start. Please, keep up the good work and post an instructional for how to do it when you have it dialed in.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

nitro
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not to go off topic but when finished as a open source software would anyone no where to send to get made ? id like to get some made and for u guys as well ?

dct73
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Awesome stuff. Sadly, if this is DIY I’ll never get one. I just don’t have those skills.

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if i find time to do some research and with the creator permeation ill try to find a company to make the board and just sell to who ever ?

scottyhazzard
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My skills are fledgling but I figure that as long as I can get parts and a diagram or set of instructions usefull to a non-electrical engineer- then I will get better with each build. After a few burns and some less than ideal builds I’ll get it. I think it would be really something to assemble all on my own.

dct33, I’ll bet you have more skills than you let on.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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I thought a direct connection from another mcu leg to the led, so that the mcu can drive the led by itself with some mA. That’s because the LEDs will see very short spikes of full current maybe 6A or so in moonlight. Which is not optimal and often these tiny controllers have more legs than we need so it came to my mind.

Thanks for the link with explanation of the anti parallel diode, I doubt it is necessary but as it is an additional protection it is quite nice.

What is with a battery protection?
Just a voltage divider, read out by the mcus adc like on the nanjg boards?

The FET with the smallest Ron I could find was the irl3803.

I talked with pilot last week and he too uses allegro, I have also the plan/wish to learn how to use this’s one day.

tivo532
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nitro wrote:
if i find time to do some research and with the creator permeation ill try to find a company to make the board and just sell to who ever ?

Nitro,

That would be great. Yes I can provide the bill of materials and procedure on how to program.

Beer

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tivo i sent u a pm about your driver

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Any chance of somebody collecting all the assorted parts and selling them in kit form? Assembly is easy - smear some paste around, drop parts into place, hit it with some hot air - ordering small quantities of the parts that only cost so little from all over, seems like one person doing the ordering then reselling everything together would be much more efficient. Wink

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once i hear back from tivo i might hear back on a quote on some boards Smile

dct73
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comfychair wrote:

Any chance of somebody collecting all the assorted parts and selling them in kit form? Assembly is easy – smear some paste around, drop parts into place, hit it with some hot air – ordering small quantities of the parts that only cost so little from all over, seems like one person doing the ordering then reselling everything together would be much more efficient. Wink

If you’re just using paste and hot air then shoot, I’d be in for a couple kits if available. But I’m looking for 2×18650 drivers mostly.

comfychair
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dct73 wrote:
comfychair wrote:

Any chance of somebody collecting all the assorted parts and selling them in kit form? Assembly is easy - smear some paste around, drop parts into place, hit it with some hot air - ordering small quantities of the parts that only cost so little from all over, seems like one person doing the ordering then reselling everything together would be much more efficient. Wink

If you're just using paste and hot air then shoot, I'd be in for a couple kits if available.

Yes, really easy. I use a butane soldering iron with no tip installed, it has a catalyst honeycomb thing inside that burns the butane so no flame comes out the end. Apply paste to all the pads with a toothpick (and in most cases it doesn't have to be precise, surface tension when it melts will pull the solder onto the pads and off anything on the board that isn't a pad), plop the components in place, then move the hot air around evenly over the board, components and everything, and when it gets hot enough the solder melts. Surface tension will snap the components into place on the pads, so alignment there doesn't have to be perfect either. Really neat to watch, the melting flashes across the board like a shockwave when it goes.

dct73
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Shockwave? Sounds pretty cool! I’ve used hot air to clear boards before, but this sounds even better. Now that I think of it, I could re-flow emitters with the heat gun too. Probably run the heat from the bottom though. Then again, I might miss sharing the flashlight experience with my wife and her frying pan. Big Smile

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