PAISEN U2-Z6: A Chunky Pocket Monkey - Mini Review and Mod

31 posts / 0 new
Last post
Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada
PAISEN U2-Z6: A Chunky Pocket Monkey - Mini Review and Mod

Since I haven’t seen any mention of this light in the forums, I thought I’d take a little time to give it it’s fifteen minutes of fame.
I bought this torch for $16 with a coupon from Wallbuys wondering if my 26650 extension tube from CNQG would fit for an MT-G2 build. The threads matched, but the amount of threads didn’t. Oh well, on to plan B.

The PAISEN U2-Z6 is a well built torch. I can’t believe it is so inexpensive.

Short and compact, it is perfect for a coat pocket. Because of its size, your fingers need to be wrapped partially around the cooling fins, which give you a great grip. The heat management of the head present you with no reason to fear toasty fingers.

If you’re looking for a happy medium in a single celled light, this is it.

Roche F8 – Paisen U2-Z6 – Tangsfire HD2010

It comes stock with an XM-L U2 and options for 1×26650, 1×18650 or 3xAAA. The adapter for 18650 is a little short and will slide up and down inside the tube, but no big deal. Very nice even anodizing and grippy checkering on the body. The aluminum bezel ring gives it a smart look and prevents scratching when placing it head down.

Lots of threads on this torch. Just unscrewing the top of the head can lead to a case of tendonitis.
As soon as I got this light, like most of us, I unscrewed all the parts to have a look before I even put a battery in it. When tightening the head back down on over the reflector, the threads felt kind of “crunchy”. Oh-oh. I forgot to center the reflector over the LED and cracked it. Surprisingly, when I popped in a battery, it still worked with only a slight swirl of shadow on the hot spot. I think that black-grey mark is ground in aluminum from the reflector.


The beam profile is nice and clear with no rings. Since I have been working on larger diameter throwers with high current lately, I felt it needed a little more oomph.

Stock driver.(next mode memory)

1.75A at the emitter.

High – 1.75A
Med – 0.87A
Low – 0.24A

Oh yeah, before I forget. There was no thermal paste under the emitter and the LED was soldered to the star in reverse. No big problem. The fact that the light worked means that it was tested at the factory. I’ve accidentally reversed emitters myself.

Since I already cracked the XM-L U2, I felt this was the perfect time to attempt my very first de-doming. I soaked it in gas over night, rinsed with alcohol, gave it a quick test…success.
Now for a driver. I just received some East-92 drivers, so I decided to try one out.
I jury rigged one up with a rats nest of wires, magnets and alligator clips with an 18650, and got a current reading of 4.08A. I’m pretty sure I’ll get a higher reading with secure wiring and different cells.

The East-92 needs to be connected to a larger contact board. I believe the stock driver was 22mm, but a 21mm board is just fine.

I like to make my driver/contact boards compact and rugged without wires that might disconnect, so this is the system I use for a solid trouble free connection.
You can use stripped wire, but I prefer these copper 22 gauge jewelry pins.
Normally, I use solder and flux, but this time I used newly acquired solder paste instead. With paste, the job only takes minutes, and very little heat.

Place a dab of solder or paste on the ground contact and lay the wire so it will overlap and connect with the ground ring on the smaller diameter driver. Touch the iron tip to the wire until solder melts and snip off at the edge. Repeat this on four points. I did it on all eight points. The solder paste made it so easy it only took minutes.

Also solder a small piece or two of wire in the center to make contact with the Positive battery contact. Then I dabbed a touch of paste to the tops of all the short wires, squeezed the boards together like an Oreo cookie and touched my iron to all the little pins around the edges. These boards are now one, and will not fall apart. Next touch the iron to the battery contact until poisonous vapors are produced ensuring the + is soldered together. Since I had the last little end of the head pin I was snipping left, I had this pushed through the center to assure lots of contact. When that pin was standing solid, I knew the paste had melted in the middle. Then I snipped it off flush.




Add a spring and copper braid…

Here we go. De-domed XM-L U2 on copper with an East-92 Driver in a Paisen U2-Z6.
I was surprised at the amount of throw this compact light can produce. This is my first de-dome, so I don’t really have a point of reference for comparison, but, I love this light. On a white wall, there are some faint halos around the emitter. Not rings…halos. I guess the lower profile of the de-domed emitter is catching the edges of the emitter hole in the reflector. I could sand down the centering disc to lower the reflector, but the halo disappears after the distance is increased a couple of feet, so I won’t bother. Inside on a wall, the de-domed emitter has a hint of green, but as a thrower, that is a moot point.
THIS HOST CAN HANDLE THE HEAT!
The large aluminum pill is threaded into the head with lots of cooling fins all around it. The heat absorption is such that it is spread out and dissipated so it can be run on high continuously and never get past Luke warm. This is a great host for modders that like to push the envelope.

After the light is all together with copper braid added to rear and aft springs I took some extra tailcap current readings on high.

Panasonic NCR18650PD – 4.10A
EFest 18650 IMR – 4.01A
Sony US18650VTC3 – 5.02A
KingKong ICR26650 (unprotected) – 4.58A
FourSevens 26650 (protected) – 4.85A

That’s it. Happy modding.

Edited by: Ouchyfoot on 11/03/2013 - 11:48
ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7935
Location: SC

Nice review, light, and mod.  Do you have a link to the East driver you used?

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Nice review, light, and mod.  Do you have a link to the East driver you used?


I got the driver from FastTech. I was lucky and mine were all the “good” versions. They’re all out of stock now. I think Tom E scooped them all up.
ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7935
Location: SC

Damn Tom E.  If he wasn't such a nice guy, I'd suggest we all go over there, rough him up, and give the emitters to the more needy (i.e. me).

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

Is the bezel SS on this light? I've been debating whether to get one - AliExpress listing shows a 40 mm head diameter, so smaller than a C8, bigger than a Convoy M1.

Wait - I never bought an East-092 driver -- ugh, never would want to Innocent. I hate 5 mode direct drives -- stacked Nangj, custom programmed is all I do in the 17mm single cell format. Got some from HD2010's and C8's, maybe 1 or 2 other light types. I got quite a few laying around here in my pulled driver pile though... Haven't counted them up.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

Tom E wrote:

Is the bezel SS on this light? I’ve been debating whether to get one – AliExpress listing shows a 40 mm head diameter, so smaller than a C8, bigger than a Convoy M1.


I’m pretty sure the bezel ring is aluminum…nicely finished. The OD of the ring is 40mm. The convoy M1 is pretty much the same size as the Roche F8 pictured along with the Tangsfire HD2010
Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

If you are going to mod for de-dome and throw, this light is perfect for DD with just a contact board. The host can easily handle the heat, and who needs modes with a thrower anyway.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Damn Tom E.  If he wasn't such a nice guy, I'd suggest we all go over there, rough him up, and give the emitters to the more needy (i.e. me).

How many do you want? Like I said, I got a few pulled from lights.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

I was mistaken Tom. It was Hyprmtr that ordered something like seventy of them.

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 43 sec ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6778
Location: Holland

This is the same light.http://budgetlightforum.com/node/22566

And this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21563

I also have the Paulsen, like yours, nice light!

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

No prob ouchy... relic38 said his light from DX has a plated aluminum bezel, and from everyone is saying, these are purely identical, so guess WB is the best deal for the price - just ordered one with the WALLBUYSALLMAGIC code, so came to $16.50 w/no tracking.

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7935
Location: SC

Tom E wrote:

How many do you want? Like I said, I got a few pulled from lights.

I was mostly just playing around, but I'd like to buy some if you don't think you will need them.  I'll PM you.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Nice mod! Smile Thanks for sharing..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Gj
Gj's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 06/26/2013 - 15:44
Posts: 3066
Location: NY,USA

Nice review and sweet mod. Cool

Great idea with the copper jewelry pins.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

After playing with this light for a week now, I’m still very happy with it…but…the green tint is becoming more and more noticeable to my eyes.

This was my first de-doming. And I was very happy that it was easy, and successful.
I used the stock emitter that claimed to be an XM-L U2, but it could be anything.
Are these weird tints common with de doming? Can I obtain a whiter beam with a different LED. I really don’t want to waste a bunch of new XM-L2s in a futile search of a nice tint.
Can anyone give me some hints on what to expect from various LEDs after de-doming?

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

1A/1D gets less green looking compared to 1C or 1B. Many of the typical stock emitters seems to be around 1C..

This post gives a simplified example of how the tint changes after dedoming and how to fix that kind of tint in multiemitter lights. More info in that thread..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

RaceR86 wrote:

1A/1D gets less green looking compared to 1C or 1B.


So, “less green looking” means I’m always going to get a bit of green or yellowish tint? I figured it would get whiter after de-dome. I was worried that it would end up bluish.
Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

No, it's been mentioned many times: de-doming always goes more neutral, that's why you want to start out with the coolest white, because even a 1A comes out in the neighborhood of 3C. 0D's and 1A's come out pretty good. 1C's are too yellow/green for my taste. If they were a nice looking warm tint, then it would be fine, but I've seen much better looking warm tints w/dome than a de-domed 1C. It's not awful-awful, but be warned.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

What about an XM-L U3. I’ve got one laying about that I never bother with because I felt it might be too blue/violet for my tastes.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

Ouchyfoot wrote:
What about an XM-L U3. I've got one laying about that I never bother with because I felt it might be too blue/violet for my tastes.

Well U3 is a bin, not a tint. If you are saying it looks blue/violet, then it's maybe a cool 1A so good for de-doming. I don't de-dome XML's (rather spend the $5-$6 for XM-L2), but should work ok.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

I had taken the 26650 out of my Paisen so I could run tests on three HD2010s. Tonight I put the cell back in and got 2A. I tried another and got 2A. By the time I tried the third, it didn’t work at all. I did some tests and finally determined that the emitter must be dead. I guess the dedomed XML is more fragile. I had the reflector, and the centering ring off and on a few times for sanding, so I could raise the emitter a bit. Something delicate might have got bumped.
I’m not sure if I’ll just stick in a regular emitter, as I didn’t care much for the greenish tint I got. Actually I have a couple of XM-L T6 0D that I’ll probably never use. Maybe they will produce a nicer de domed tint. I also have some XM-L2 U2 1D in the mail. Perhaps I’d better experiment with the older XML 0D first.

jmpaul320
jmpaul320's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 18 min ago
Joined: 05/22/2012 - 09:06
Posts: 4189
Location: CT

i love this host – just got mine tonight… im planning a low resistance direct drive imr 26650 with a xml2 u2 on noctigon… i might even try to add more mass to the pill Smile

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

The stock driver has a second pad for LED+. The other pad is for direct drive. It depends on which logo is on your light for what pad is connected. I didn’t know that at the time, so it was never tested. Relic has a resister mod to get rid of next mode memory.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

I replaced the blown de-domed XM-L with a de-domed XM-L2 T6 0D. I never did see the tint before de-doming, so I can’t tell how much it’s changed. My eyes are fried from staring at unshielded emitters. I’m not sure whether it tends toward green or yellow. The hot spot does seem crisper, but there is still a bit of a halo from the bottom of the reflector. I sanded the centering ring, and have the reflector about as low as I can get it. I don’t want to mess around too much for fear of touching the LED and breaking something fragile.
I have to wait til tonight for a true test of throw and tint.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

Okay. The de domed XM-L2 I installed gives a lower current reading than the de domed XM-L, but still getting 4.5A.
I definitely prefer the de-domed XM-L2 T6 0D as far as tint goes. The XM-L U2 was just too green for my tastes. Overall, it seems brighter and more focused, with a more defined hotspot. Maybe I just got the reflector sitting down better, I don’t know.
I’m happy with this version and I’ll keep it this way. There was just something about the XM-L beam profile that bothered me.

Some crappy iPad shots from my balcony.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

I got in some XM-L2 U2 1D's from Hank, built one up in a P60 domed, and has a very slight rosy tint - think'n it will make a nice tint de-domed, maybe not so much green.

freeme
freeme's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 40 min ago
Joined: 11/14/2013 - 22:00
Posts: 10664

Anyone know if Pasien U2-Z3, Skyeye F13, Ultrafire F13, Raysoon RS-F13 and Windfire F13 are of same quality/ finishing/ pill design?
Ultrafire F13 is the lowest price ($13.32 after discount) of all now. Good price for host?

1thedeals.comyoutubeAstroluxNealsgadgetsolight

texas shooter
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 08/26/2012 - 02:14
Posts: 1821
Location: Texas
freeme wrote:
Anyone know if Pasien U2-Z3, Skyeye F13, Ultrafire F13, Raysoon RS-F13 and Windfire F13 are of same quality/ finishing/ pill design? Ultrafire F13 is the lowest price ($13.32 after discount) of all now. Good price for host?

I’ve had two Shadow JM07’s, Pasien and an Ultrafire F13. They were all identical with fit, finish, pill and output.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

Finally modded out my Paisen Z6. The pill I suppose is obsolete now. The new F13's from the GearBest group buy are pill-less. I do however like this pill because of the lareg pill interior, lots of threads for heat sinking to the body.

My mods:

  • 1.75 mm copper shim, sized down and AA epoxied into the pill under the pill top. Stock pill top is only 1.25 mm thick
  • XM-L2 T6 4C from FastTech on a 20mm SinkPAD
  • trashed the LED alignment piece is favor of a much better, low profile butterfly type. To make up for the vertical space, added a copper shim of about 0.75 mm under the SinkPAD and solder them together
  • screwed down the SinkPAD/shim assembly to the pill top with 2 flat heads - notched out the pill top edge to make room for the screws
  • BLF22DD driver - custom programmed, 20 AWG LED wires
  • used a IOS size 'B' spring, 22 AWG wired down the middle
  • replaced the red button with a blue GITD, 22 AWG wire down the middle of the spring, treated all contact surfaces in the tail assembly with NO-OX-ID from Illumn
  • used electrical/thermal conductive grease on the pill threads

Gets 6.0A on a fresh KK26700, and 6.25A on a fresh LG HE2 or Efest 35A. Of course the runtime on the KK 26700 with low resistance power is the best option. Lumens is about 1,500 OTF and throw at 37.5 kcd with a nice tint. Waiting on a UCLp lens to arrive for it.

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

Wow, it took you long enough.
You swapped the red tail boot! That was the main reason I bought it.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 21 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14996
Location: LI NY

Ugh - well, still got 3 of the F13's from the $10 deal, so they still have the red tail boot SmileSmileSmile. One of the F13's I modded with a 4.5A Nanjg, and a XM-L2 U2 1A. But cheated a bit - instead of using the copper shim under the SinkPAD, I added an o-ring between the glass and reflector.

I love the fact you can use the KK26700 cells - highest capacity around at 5300-5450 mAh or so.

Think you were 100% right about the heat sinking. I ran it for 5 mins straight, left tailstanding. Though it was somewhat hot, I could pick it up and hold it ok.