Tangsfire HD2010

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unknown00101
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Tangsfire HD2010

I was having a great day.

Seems there’s something up with my Tangsfire HD 2010.

It seems to have died.

There is no light output, but I can hear what sounds to be a really pissed off driver; sounds like an angry wasp stuck between 2 surfaces.

The sound varies when ‘changing modes’ but still no output.

Any ideas?

koyotee
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Swap the driver

Finaly, proud owner of a Powerex Maha mh c-9000 for my Eneloops:)

unknown00101
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Yikes, also heats the battery up quite rapidly… 82*F after a few seconds, ambient temp 68*.

I don’t have another driver atm. All my single cell drivers are in the mail, and my 2 cell driver is dead. Sad

Are you saying the driver is dead, or trying to rule that out?

leaftye
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Pull the driver out of the pill and put it back together.  Do the same thing with the switch in the tailcap.  Something may have been amiss.

The low mode should be lower.

unknown00101
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
No light, batt heating up >> batt+ is shorting to ground.

Where would this be occurring?

What can be done to fix it?

I noticed that the star got twisted while the glue was setting (factory) and it’s pinching both pos and neg wires going down into the pill.

Rusty Joe
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When are people going to learn, expect to use these just as hosts since most do not work. Silly

Nah, seriously, I’ve gone through 4 of them, and this affects all versions of the light. The whine, the bad output, the flickering, the warm battery, and random dying, etc. I could never get one that worked like it should. Even the cheaper T08s have a better track record.

unknown00101
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Rusty Joe wrote:
When are people going to learn, expect to use these just as hosts since most do not work. Silly

Nah, seriously, I’ve gone through 4 of them, and this affects all versions of the light. The whine, the bad output, the flickering, the warm battery, and random dying, etc. I could never get one that worked like it should. Even the cheaper T08s have a better track record.

As long as the driver functions I’m happy (For HD 2010 in particular), which it seemed to before this issue. I was getting 3.3amps on an ICR26650. I don’t have any high drain unprotected batteries yet.

unknown00101
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:
the star got twisted while the glue was setting (factory) and it’s pinching both pos and neg wires

That might be the reason.

LED+ shorting to ground >> no light, battery heats up (pipe bomb mode)
LED- shorting to ground >> direct drive, no more modes

Alright, my 22 awg wire is waiting at the post office; I’ll just upgrade them while the star is off.

As far as getting the star off… someone mentioned throwing it in the freezer and popping it off (for fujik), but this is light grey stuff (I don’t think it’s fujik). Or should I do the ‘drop it in a ziplock, drop ziplock in boiling water for a bit and then pop it off’?

My number 1 priority is to not damage the driver. I have several noctigon xml2’s waiting along with the wire so I’ll probably end up putting one of those bad boys on instead of the stock star/emitter.

janko.hrasko
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does it work without the reflector? it may be shorting the led wires because bigger than need to be blobs of solder on the led mcpcb

unknown00101
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janko.hrasko wrote:
does it work without the reflector? it may be shorting the led wires because bigger than need to be blobs of solder on the led mcpcb

It doesn’t. If the wires weren’t pinched I’d be impressed with the factory install, smallest solder blobs I’ve seen.

unknown00101
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Well I tried pushing it off from the bottom, might have succeeded in bending the star a little… Tried the freezer method, no dice. It ain’t budging.

I ran the driver in my test rig and it works great so that’s awesome.

Any ideas on how to get this glued star off my pill? I figured I would heat it up a bit and try that; otherwise I’m at a loss.

unknown00101
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Heat didn’t seem to work.

Any kind of chemicals work on this stuff? The dome isn’t really a big deal as I’d probably remove it with gas anyway, but I’d like to save the emitter for small projects if possible.

LinusHofmann
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unknown00101 wrote:
Heat didn’t seem to work.

Any kind of chemicals work on this stuff? The dome isn’t really a big deal as I’d probably remove it with gas anyway, but I’d like to save the emitter for small projects if possible.

Best bet is to try and push the star out with a small screwdriver from inside the driver cavity. If you have a small enough flathead you can get through the holes for the emitter wires and usually get some purchase on the edge of the star. Then just apply a fair bit of pressure and soon enough the fujik/glue will break.

If you can’t do that then your best bet is to again get a flathead or a thin flexible blade and try to wedge it in around the edges of the star itself to lift it up. You’ll have to remove the pill to get a good enough angle but if it’a a stock alu star the eges will be bent up from the stamping so you can get some purchase in there. Don’t be too afraid to use the edge of the pill rim as a leverage point as wel,. It will usually take a fair bit of force before the glue gives.

It’s usually a pain and you may end up scractching the pill surface or bending the star slightly. It’s why I don’t really like gluing down my emitters anymore, I try to go for screws and thermal grease only if possible since it’s so much easier to swap emitters afterwards.

Good luck Smile

Edit: Oh and if there’s any excess glue around the edges, remove that first. Don’t want to increase it’s holding strength unnecesarily!

unknown00101
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Heh I’m well past worrying about the pill being scratched. Silly

Almost to the point where I rip the star off and scrap it, or buy one of those sexy copper pills and forget all about this one. Smile

Wooooo! Big Smile

These little stars are quite a bit sturdier than I thought. It came out with just a slight bend on both sides, and a few indents from the screwdriver on the underside. If it wasn’t glued down over the wire holes I don’t see how I could have gotten that buggar off!

Anyway the star/emitter… I’m not an expert on placing an emitter on a star, but this looks wayyy off (I didn’t do it! Silly ).

Ouchyfoot
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Yikes!!!

alphazeta
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Wow! Never saw such a shoddy job b4…

LinusHofmann
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Wow indeed…epic reflow fail Silly
Stunned this ever worked tbh

Tom E
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I've seen this before - in my direct drive LM C8. Lesson learned - don't ever try tightening the bezel with a direct drive light on high - this can happen Smile.

In my case, the over-driven XML on aluminum is most likely to blame. There should be a current limit on all aluminum star lights.

unknown00101
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Tom E wrote:

I’ve seen this before – in my direct drive LM C8. Lesson learned – don’t ever try tightening the bezel with a direct drive light on high – this can happen Smile.

In my case, the over-driven XML on aluminum is most likely to blame. There should be a current limit on all aluminum star lights.

Ah, yep. I imagine I probably did that at some point though I can’t remember it. XML2 u2 1a Noctigon is going in it’s place anyway. Smile

I didn’t realize it got hot enough to melt the solder under the emitter, that’s crazy hot.

Tom E
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Well under high amps, the solder softens and if you have some binding with the reflector and plastic alignment piece, this can happen. I think the copper stars are so efficient in pulling off heat, it would be much more unlikely.

Also, we've seen some really poor LED re-flows in the these Chinese lights, combined with probably poor quality solder, so...