Teardown and Mod Thread of Courui XML2 Aka "Big Head 3x18650 Side-Switch Thrower"

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xmint
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H1ST wrote:
Replaced the r200 with a small blob of solder and now i get nothing. I tried replacing it with a small wire and also replaced the r200 and still doesnt work. Dont understand why was an easy soldering job any ideas?

Edit: its working now i tried again with a blob of solder but dont understand why it didnt at first :s

and when i say working it only works when the emitter shelf isnt screwed in? When the shelf is screwed in it is permenently turned on

IIRC its quite tight around the resistor pads check you have not shorted it to any other pad.

Check to see you are not shorting the star to the back of the reflector Kapton tape is your friend.

The views in this post are mine, they are views and beliefs only, and not to be taken as facts.

bibihang
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H1ST wrote:
Replaced the r200 with a small blob of solder and now i get nothing. I tried replacing it with a small wire and also replaced the r200 and still doesnt work. Dont understand why was an easy soldering job any ideas?

Edit: its working now i tried again with a blob of solder but dont understand why it didnt at first :s

and when i say working it only works when the emitter shelf isnt screwed in? When the shelf is screwed in it is permenently turned on


Sounds like shorting in somewhere. I’ve had the permanently on problem too and it takes quite some time to diagnose.

Your problem occurs with/without putting on the reflector? Did you notice any smoke came out from the LED when it is on? Other than that you can also check the connectivity of your LED using a DMM. You need to check the +ve pad with the -ve pad, +ve pad with the LED star base, and -ve pad with the LED star base.

EDIT: Oh crap, my LED still on when it was switched off. I realized that it is not because of the LED but something to do with the driver. I have spent too many hours diagnosing this issue but still cannot figure out a solution, think I am going to create a new thread asking for help. :_(

H1ST
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I never found out what was shorting but it managed to fix itself and then me being and moron threaded the reflector back on not checking the centering ring and shorted across the reflector and blew the blard but im not too fussed got other plans for it now

Nightbird95
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bibihang wrote:
… I did file down the base of the reflector to allow the LED sits inside… Smile

Just finished filing the reflector base of my T08. What did you do to remove the dust particles from the inside of the reflector? It seem that blowing as hard as I can ain’t enough. Silly

Nightbird95
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Filing the base of the T08 reflector did increase the lux by 8%. I’m only getting 151kcd before. After the filing, its 163kcd. I would just leave the micro dust particle as it is for now. I can’t risk another damaged reflector.

Next mod is the Courui. J)

led4power
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Nightbird95 wrote:
  I would just leave the micro dust particle as it is for now. I can't risk another damaged reflector.

Try to wash it with water+some liquid soap (do not touch it with anything,just let the water flow).After that rinse it with pure alcohol and dry it with hairdryer(dry it from outside!).Oven would be probably better(no moving air-less dust).I tried this few days ago.I had one reflector with a lot of dust,and even some grease-like spots.It worked much better than I thought,reflector is now almost like new.

Nightbird95
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led4power wrote:

Nightbird95 wrote:
  I would just leave the micro dust particle as it is for now. I can’t risk another damaged reflector.

Try to wash it with water+some liquid soap (do not touch it with anything,just let the water flow).After that rinse it with pure alcohol and dry it with hairdryer(dry it from outside!).Oven would be probably better(no moving air-less dust).I tried this few days ago.I had one reflector with a lot of dust,and even some grease-like spots.It worked much better than I thought,reflector is now almost like new.

Thanx. But I’d rather not put it inside the oven. The T08 reflector is made of plastic. :bigsmile:

Nightbird95
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Just finished washing the reflector with warm water and hand soap solution. The result is a good as new reflector after drying it in front of the fan. Thanx for the tip led4power! Beer

bibihang
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As led4power said, wash it with water will do. I just bought a ball blower like this . Not sure if it is strong enough to blow away the dust and particles on the reflector, never tried yet.

…but since I have washed it quite many times already my T08 reflector is damaged and scratches are everywhere now, perhaps it doesn’t do 190~200kcd anymore. :bigsmile:

Nightbird95
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I guess too much of anything is not a good thing. :bigsmile:

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Total newbie here, though tinkering with electronics for many years.

I just bought 2 of these (no name) for $40 US delivered.
I may be naive, but I just want to use these as a housing
and put in a new driver, springs, etc.

Would this driver do a good job in this light? Looks like it will fit.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10003372/1278501

V10+ 2.7~4.5V XML-T6 4-Group 1/3/4-Mode + 1%~100%
Ramping LED Driver Board 5000mA / overheat protection (55-60℃)
FastTech’s test results: 4/23/2013: 4450mA @ 4.2V
I hope to get about 1200 lms.

I hope to use with EBL 2600ma cells. Paid around $2 each new. Normally close to 3.

Comment on these cells from Amazon.
This review is from: EBL® 4 Pack 18650 3.7V 2600mAh Rechargeable li-ion Battery
These batteries supply my Itaste VTR vape stick. Each battery lasts for over a week before the scale says it has even moved from the full charge.

This leads me to believe the capacity is there and the ability to supply at least 3A per cell.

1 more question.
Anyone suggest a nice holster for this light?

“A dying culture invariably exhibits personal rudeness. Bad manners.

Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

FmC
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I can’t comment on the batteries, but the ‘V10’ driver is rubbish. Quite a few people got them when they came out, myself included, & they fell way below their rated output, & had a ‘clunky’ UI.

Look into the FET based drivers that have been developed here by BLF members. You can throw one together yourself from parts, or get one ready to go at Mountain Electronics

Werner
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40$ per piece or for both?
2$ battery is with a high chance junk.
V10 is definitely junk and not made for eswitches

You need a driver for a momentary switch. There are lot of customs programmed drivers available, nanjg, nanjg with stacked chips or like above suggested aFET driver….

If you need cheap batteries and don’t need them quick check this thread:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32793
If you want quality and are able to pay 15$ per pair than you will have a wide variety of quality cells available.

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LOL, always more to learn.

Thanks FmC

I looked at the FET drivers.

For ME they are a poor choice though there was one combination 4*7135/FET driver that looked interesting.

I prefer a regulated driver @ no more than 4.5A. 12*7135 might work well.
This will allow me to not have to modify the heat sink too much, keep light output more constant,
and still get around 1200 lumens which is enough for me.

I’m not trying to make a superlight, just a reliable, economical one with excellent throw.
If it matches my EAW8 I’ll be happy.

I think I’ll wait until the lights arrive in a month or so and see what needs to be done
before I make any changes and shoot off my mouth here.

“A dying culture invariably exhibits personal rudeness. Bad manners.

Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

comfychair
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It will only be regulated as long as the battery voltage stays above the LED's forward voltage required to do that current level. 4.5A needs around 3.7-3.8 volts. Starting from only 4.2v no-load that's not a lot of runtime before it starts dimming.

Down_South
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Guten tag Werner,

Thanks for the link on the Samsung 32A’s Cheaper than my supplier by .74 USD.
Lights were $19.99 ea.
I don’t know if I’m allowed to put links here, but I’ll post them and a mod can remove them with my apologies and promise to never do it again.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Outdoor-Camping-1000LM-Led-Flashlight-3-M...XML-T6-Mini-Portable/1964480381.html
Emailed Bella about the lens. Her response below.

About the UCL Lenses, I think you have a misunderstand with it.
UCL means Ultra clear lens, it usually made by resin instead of glass.
It is a new material for lenses. Actually, Lenses made by UCL is more lighter than glass, and it is not easy be crashed.
As the impact resistance of UCL lenses is better.
The transmission of light of UCL is equally to glass lenses. (not true: 97 vs 99%)

http://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=UCLp_AR shows an acrylic 73mm lens for $8.25.
What is an acrylic resin? http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-acrylic-resin.htm
Another light I just ordered and 1 I ordered from Lisa before.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-Bright-4500LM-Tactical-Flashlight-3...LED-5-Mode-Hunting-Torch-Light/1606104769.html
Hope it’s a good “flood” light. Only uses 1 26650 or 18650, but very compact. $26.73

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Top-Quality-Waterproof-Hand-Torch-2000-Lu...XML-T6-5-Mode-Rechargeable-Portable-Self-defense/1569184568.html
I paid $23.58 on sale. Very bright, well focused thrower.
Also ordered a Convoy C8 8*7135 XM-L2 T6-3B from Simon at Aliexpress. $17.80

Damm, this adds up fast, but considering I just bought my girlfriend a new Honda I guess I’m allowed my simple pleasures.

I actually wrote the response below to FmC much earlier today, then had to take a friend to the doctor before clicking save.

Actually EBL is a very reputable company with their AA/AAA NiMh cells outperforming generation 1-3 Eneloops for capacity. (not the XXX)
Cycles rechargeable. . . . not enough data yet.
The reason I got the 18650’s so cheap is that the seller (Aibocn) messed up the shipment and when I called them on it they shipped me a new order for free, letting me keep the partial order.

I can get various Sony, LG, Samsung, Efest, MNKE 25-2600mah 18650’s in the $4-5 ea range
ex: Samsung ICR 18650-26F 2600mah $2.84, ICR cells which should take more charges,
or buy the Acer laptop batteries described in a thread elsewhere here and recover the individual Samsung 2600mah cells for ~ $2 ea.
Considering the cost benefit ratio of a $2.80 EBL, at full retail, in 8 packs, or Samsung ICR 26F @$2.84 2600mah vs a $6.84 3100mah Efest cell (remember I only need 1.5A continuous) I’ll take the cheaper and carry a spare cell.

All above are unprotected cells and I know the dangers, and always check, and match my cells using a Nitecore D4, fluke DVM and Dale discharge resistors feeding my PC’s serial port so I can see what’s going on.

“A dying culture invariably exhibits personal rudeness. Bad manners.

Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

Down_South
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Thanks comfychair.

Forgot this is a parallel battery setup, not series with higher voltage.
OK, FET drive sounds like the way to go.
I’m going to wait, read this thread several times more, then make some decisions.

One other thing, this is an XM-L T6, not an XM-L2 light.

So now I wait. Thanks to all. I have now retired from the field.

AFAIK Bella has no current draw, driver info, etc. on this light.
I just took a chance. Hopefully it will make a good host.

Nationalism is an infantile disease. It is the measles of mankind.

Albert Einstein

“A dying culture invariably exhibits personal rudeness. Bad manners.

Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

bibihang
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Down_South wrote:
One other thing, this is an XM-L T6, not an XM-L2 light.

The Courui big head flashlight I received from KD comes with XM-L2, so as the other members I believe.
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Nice looking light. the first thing i would do is remove that tail-end wire, and mod in a tailcap switch for a Lockout when off.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Down_South
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That’s why I posted what I did. That way no disappointed members.
I did read the entire thread, but my memory is not what it used to be.
Fortunately other parts work better.

“A dying culture invariably exhibits personal rudeness. Bad manners.

Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

comfychair
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'UCL'/'UCLp' is a trademark of flashlightlens.com, so pay no attention to what anyone from the overseas knock-off resellers say it is.

Rod911
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I plan to purchase two of these lenses myself as well for the two Big Head lights I have modded. From what Linus said about them, they do the trick despite the fact not being glass.

FmC
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Down_South – there’s some more threads about this light, including Ouchyfoot’s series mod.

Some more info to chew on while you wait for them…..

Down_South
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Thanks all.
If you’re curious here’s some of the emails I exchanged with Bella.
Please excuse the flowery language.
That is the culture of China but my Mandarin is not very good any more so I used English.

Price went to 36.99 + 1.25 shipping. I think she forgot to remove the shipping.
My original order did not include the shipping costs.
She also can’t add or more likely was very flustered as shown by her email below.
My final cost would be $27.30 per light, unknown driver, XML T6, acrylic AR lens.
For a host I would take them. For a light I want to do non aggressive mods there may be better choices.

Now I have to decide to take these OR get the one from Deal Extreme which only has a 1800ma driver (I’ve read it’s actually much higher, but don’t remember where) with a XL-M2 T6 (preferred) and glass lens. $36.68
http://www.dx.com/p/couru-l2-cree-xm-l2-t6-600lm-3-mode-white-flashlight...

OR the one from KD with no drive specs, but gotta be at least 1800ma, a XM-L2 U2 and coated glass lens. $38.33
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022823

If I can keep these stock except for springs, wiring, tail cap mod, centering ring, cleanup, AS thermal, driver, if needed (I want 4-5A), basically everything except changing the LED, heatsink and the series mod I’d be happier.
My soldering station got stolen in my last robbery and I don’t feel like buying another even IF I could find one here. A cheap soldering pencil will do the other work.

All opinions appreciated, especially from the experts . . . . . hmm, that’s all who have responded so far.
Thanks all. Never knew this could be so complex.

Rich S.

emails below cut and pasted and appear with newest at top.

2014-07-16 00:39:27

Hello Bella,
Jīntiān nǐ yǒu fàn? 今天你有饭?
Hurry and change your price.
I told some people about the light and they may be buying it.
It sounds like an honest mistake to me.
I lived in Shenzhen in 2007, near the north HK gate, and know how hard you have to work to earn money.
Much competition. Thank you for your kind offer to correct the mistake and I will probably accept it.

But your figures are wrong. You must have been in a hurry.
145+50=195(not 190)*1.1=214.5 RMB or 34.60 USD.

19.99 OR 21.24 if postage was charged to my credit card.
If postage was NOT charged to my credit card you need to fix your system.
I will have to check if the postage was charged or not and email you tomorrow.
I believe I will have to send you more than $13.
Postage charged 34.60-21.24=13.36 postage not charged 34.60-19.99=14.61.

For now I am going to sleep sweet dreams.
Do not worry . . . . . . all will be well.

Rich

Life Easy 2014-07-15 23:11:37

Dear Richard , Nice day! Many thanks for your kindly reply. As a small seller, we really need to pay more attention to avoid this situation. Sincerely sorry to let bear of the news. I edit the wrong price, As the cost of flashlight is RMB 145 instead of RMB 45. The net weight of the flashlight is 500g. To Mexico the postage of item is RMB 10 per 100g. SO the postage of each flashlight is 50RMB. The commission charging of aliexpress is 10%.. the exchange rate between RMB and us dollar is 1:6.2 So the total cost of the flashlight is: (145+50)+(145+50)*0.1= 190+19= 209/6.2=USD 33 Sincerely sorry for my stupid mistake. Please accepte my sincerely apology. In order to show my sorry, I’d like to bear the half for you. As you have pay for them price at USD 20 each one. So I’d like to bear 33-20=13/2= USD 6.5 So each flashlight price at USD 26.5. dear Richard, as a small seller, we will pay more attention to avoid this kind of mistake.. If you think the you still need them, hope we can get your forgive and send us more USD 13 for two piece of flashlights. If you don’t need it at this price, I can understand you, after all , it’s my fault. I can help you to cancel this order. Please advice me.. Any other inquiry, please don’t be hesitate to contact me. Sincerely sorry for any inconvenience cause by it. Best regards Bella

Rich S. 2014-07-15 11:07:02

Hello Bella, Good day to you, Thank you for correcting the shipping address. UCL® is a trademark owned by a lens company and below is their site showing their acrylic lenses. http://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=UCLp_AR UCL® glass lenses transmit 99% of light. UCL® Acrylic (resin) lenses transmit 97% and can melt with very hi power bulbs. With the LED used in this flashlight a resin lens should work well. I’m old fashioned sometimes. I prefer glass. But that is just my preference. I know resin works well. No screen protectors wanted, but I thank you for the offer. You are doing enough checking the flashlights. I think I will be happy with these flashlights and am looking forward to receiving them.

Rich S.

Life Easy 2014-07-15 01:54:01

Dear Richard , Nice day! Many thanks for your kindly purchasing and message. I have advise your shipping address. please don’t worry it anymore. I understand your worry about the returning. As a realiable seller, we usually check every items before send them out. please give us more trust… About the UCL Lenses, I think you have a misunderstand with it. UCL means Ultra clear lens, it usually made by resin instead of glass. It is a new material for lenses. Actually, Lenses made by UCL is more lighter than glass, and it is not easy be crashed. As the impact resistance of UCL lenses is better. The transmission of light of UCL is equally to glass lenses. We can send two pcs of 7 inches screen protectors to you. if you need. Any other inquiry, please don’t be hesitate to contact me. I’m of your good service all the time. Have a great year! best regards Bella

“A dying culture invariably exhibits personal rudeness. Bad manners.

Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

jmpaul320
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New comer to the courui party here… just ordered from gearbest for $32 with tracking…

how about a copper pill from VOB? Smile Smile

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

how2
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I have not bought a flashlight in over a year but this one tempting me. I have 2 questions

 

Can you do something to the driver to get medium mode?

What it like holding the thing compared to the Skyray King?

fellfromtree
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LinusHofmann wrote:
toysareforboys wrote:
LinusHofmann wrote:
Distance to wall is 2.5m, Bighead on left and HD2010 on right.

Such a shame it didn’t come like this, would be so much easier to recommend if the beam profile was nice right out of the box…

Wow, talk about flawless beam!!

Subscribed for outdoor beamshots Smile

-Jamie M.

It is a massively nicer beam than when I started and the HD2010 should be a good comparison if you know what that beam can look like.
But I should state that beam shots like these can be a bit deceiving. They don’t look quite so flawless in person unfortunately.

In person you will see more shall we say “artefacts” around the center hotspot. This is usually in the form of like a flower petal type halo around the center hotspot, as well as sometimes a faint ring just at the far extent of that flower petal. This stuff is comparatively so much dimmer than the hotspot that the camera with it’s limited dynamic range fails to show it accurately. Our eyes pick it up though.

It all depends on how well focused and centered the emitter is in the reflector as well as the reflector type and quality but if you combine a smooth reflector with a square emitter those artifacts are always going to be there to a greater or lesser extent.

So both these lights exhibit these effects when looking at the beam on a white wall, on the HD2010 with it’s softer hotspot transition it’s only really noticeable when spinning the light and watching the center of the hotspot. On the Bighead the flowerpetal is a little more obvious, I suspect simply as a side-effect of the enhanced definition of the hotspot itself. The ring is also slightly more defined. But this is all with just a quick 5minute focusing so that may still be improvable by further tweaking.

The HD2010 took considerably longer than this to get to the “perfect” focus and alignment…like hours… Silly Smile

Outside you’ll never notice either of these artifacts so ultimately it doesn’t really matter.
I just want to say that if you expect a buttery smooth hotspot when white-wall hunting, you’ll have to settle for less throw and go with an orange peel reflector!

Cheers

Whitewall hunting, if the led is as far into the reflector, you will get a really small tight hotspot and nice whitewall flood around the light. It won’t have any artifacts BUT this was the kicker in the pants. It has less throw than pulling the led back into the reflector a little. Getting it just right takes a lot of time found (as you all probably know :)).

The best throw imo is around the size of your HD2010 hotspot. You lose some of the light if you shrink the hotspot too far, centering is not as critical with the led deep into the reflector too- makes it easy if you just want to bust out a light.

bibihang
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how2 wrote:
I have not bought a flashlight in over a year

What a record!

Yes it comes with Hi-Med-Strobe… Wait a minute, how do you define medium mode here? To me it is considered as medium mode because the brightness is like 30% or 50% of the maximum, which is still pretty bright to me.

rexdog
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LinusHofmann wrote:
Ok another small update, just replaced the original tall centering ring with a nice flat one and as expected this has made the world of difference to the hotspot and beam profile.

The centering ring I used is one of those white plastic ones with the wings on both sides and not much more than a slightly raised section around the emitter square. It won’t work if the emitter is not already pretty much in the center and can take a bit of coaxing to lock the reflector down right in the center, but this is the type I’ve had the best luck with centering HD2010 reflectors and it’s worked superbly again here.

The emitter is now sitting almost completely flush with the flat shelf of the reflector and it’s now pretty much perfectly focused. The spot is really nice, even and tight with fairly sharp defined edges. I’m sure that’s the perfectly smooth finish of this reflector that’s providing the definition.
It’s much more defined in fact than a nicely focused HD2010 and the spot is about 20% smaller.
So yes this light will out throw a HD2010 if given the right treatment Smile

Here is a direct side by side comparison between my best HD2010 running at over 5A on copper and the Big Head running at the measured tailcap current of 2.6A. I think I need to measure emitter current because this thing is keeping up with and maybe already surpassing the HD2010 in perceived lux! Silly


Distance to wall is 2.5m, Bighead on left and HD2010 on right.

Such a shame it didn’t come like this, would be so much easier to recommend if the beam profile was nice right out of the box…

LH, did you have to screw the pill up after replacing the centring ring?
I sanded the ring down, but the head locks down before the emitter goes up into the reflector.
If I wind the pill up, it feels a bit loose as well.

Anyway, I think I may have blown that R200 thingy – there’s no writing on it now. I’d dedomed the emitter and it was awesome.
Then sanded the ring, was OK but then the intensity of the emitter went way down – nowhere near as bright.
I’m guessing I’ve shorted it when playing around with the centring ring.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Edit: Have been reading back through posts – looks like flipping the pill is the way to go and I need a R100 resister thingy (no idea about this stuff but will have a crack based on posts).

fireball

FmC
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Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
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Location: Brisbane, AU

It’s so easy to short the reflector on these things if you start reducing the spacer/centering ring thickness. If you’ve only burnt the resistor, that’s good – hopefully you have not fried one of the two small FETs.

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