Another "Yupard" Flashlight ~~~ 5 x XM-L2

I received a Yupard 5 x XM-L2 flashlight today. I opened the box, popped in four 18650s, shone it off my balcony and then did a quick teardown.

It arrived boxed up nicely, with the light inside its own gift box.

Here is a comparison shot beside the Yupard 3 x XM-L2. I am in the middle of modding the 3 x XM-L2 version at the moment. ( Yupard 3 x XML2 thread ).

Inspite of XML- T6 in bold lettering, it is XML2. The five emitters encircle the head, with no center LED. The beam is nice and even and has a large hotspot. This is my first torch with more than three emitters, and I like the way it illuminated the little wooded area off my balcony.

Rear clicky switch with Five modes. High - Med - Low- SOS and strobe. It’s kind of next mode memory and last mode memory. If you wait ten seconds, it will come on in last mode, otherwise it will go to next mode.

Oops… Gotta run. My buildings on fire!
…to be continued…where’s my cat!

…I’m back. The blaze is out and the fire department has left. My cat is freaked out though.

Now where was I?

The Yupard is really a clone of the Solarstorm Raging. Before I bought it, I looked at pictures of the back end of the Yupard and Solarstorm drivers, and they were not the same. The picture of the Yupard 5 XML2 torch was also different than the Yupard 3xXML2 light.

Hey! Wait a minute! That’s not the same driver in the picture. That’s looks exactly like the nice AMC7135 based board like in the 3xXML2 model, right down to the traces.
Now I’m really curious. I’m wondering how they chipped up this driver to run five emitters. I better take a look.

The LEDs are mounted on a one piece aluminum board with parallel traces. Not much heat sinking here. The board is basically floating, with only the edges resting on a very narrow shelf. It is held down by three small screws that aren’t tapped deep enough, so the plate rattles loosely. No thermal paste either. I’ll have to do some work here.

Let’s remove those screws and get a look at that driver.

Hey! There’s something wrong here. Where are the AMC chips. It’s the same driver, but instead of chips it’s got resisters and diodes and stuff. The whole board is basically the same as the AMC board. Three marked sectors L1, L2 and L3, with traces that are bridged in the center to join all three. The “KEY” pads for electronic switch hookup. I have no idea how this driver works. When I pull it apart again I’ll take some better close ups so the experts can take a look. Maybe a resister mod?

Like my other Yupard, I can’t get the tailcap off. If anybody else has one of these lights and gets the cap off…let me know how you did it.

I took an emitter reading and got 3.57A. That works out to about 0.71A per LED. Obviously not pushing those XM-L2s very hard, but even then, five XML2s at 0.7A together can still put out a fair amount of light.

That’s it. Quick and dirty. This light is on the back burner for now. I have three or four mods on the go already. If I think of anything I forgot to mention, I’ll post it.
Any opinions, ideas and driver help are always appreciated.

Thanks for sharing , Ouchyfoot .

Looks interesting .

Weee.. XM-L2, hope mine comes with those as well (thanks to you and 18sixfifty) for putting this on my rader and getting a good deal..

Ill be playing with this driver circuit. But there is a chance Ill just rebuild the whole front of the light. A few people have already done rebuilds on these type of lights

Relic38, Old-Lumens, Linus..

Thanks for sharing, looking forward to see your future progress with it! :)

Keep me updated on your build. I’m working on the heat sinking on my smaller Yupard at the moment. So far, the NAGE lights seem to have the thickest integrated pills of all the “soupcan” lights I’ve tried. This five emitter Yupard will need some thinking.