****Light Bar project help****

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nitro
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****Light Bar project help****

Hey guys me and my brother is wanting to build a light bar for are trucks and we need some input on some parts

so we was thinking on 15+ XML LEDs ??? so what driver or drivers should we go for and how should we wire them up ?

for mine ill be doing half led’s using reflectors and half using aspheric lenses Smile

So any input on what to do or links to parts are welcome

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You could buy some from illumination supply, i was just looking at them yesterday

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nitro
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we got are design that we are going to use for the body but we just have to order it, as for leds illumination supply is where im shopping

i think we just need help on the driver/drivers and if we should wire them as pairs like if i go with 16 leds should we wire the with 2 drivers one driver powering 8leds and another driver to power the other 8 ? thats if somthing like that exists

nitro
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! photo heatsink1_zpsf2f96b7d.jpg!

im wondering if this will work good for heatsinking (its aluminum) ? the back of it will have a 1/8” copper plate for the leds to sit on for extra cooling

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Any new updates to for automotive application high powered drivers? Im thinking about building a monster XM-L2 multi array light bar.

It looks like DIWdiver has a successful Automotive linear 13.5A LED driver – adjustable” that can handle the voltage spikes without blowing out.

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that’s the driver im going with, and running around 12-18+ led’s

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Of course we seem to think alike. :bigsmile: Ive got a pair of nice rectangular 17 lb. deep finned aluminum heat sinks Im thinking about putting to good use. They would be a perfect platform for 18 up XML on each sink. I wonder what 36 XM-L2’s all running at 3A would look like on the front of my pickup? Might give my dual 100W HID flood beam setup (18k lumens) a run for the money. If nothing else, it would certainly compliment it!

Have you figured out which lexan type lens material gives the best A/R benefits? Have you chosen your optics/reflectors yet? Im seriously considering bare TIR’s wrapped in an oring, with each optic poking through a hole in a poly or aluminum mounting plate, and with no additional lens over the front to maintain the highest possible lux. It would certainly be water tight enough for my type of off-roading and the exposed TIR’s would have an optical efficiency closer to that of a decent reflector behind lexan. Im in no hurry and just trying to find a direction before I start buying parts.

BTW, I just installed a pair of Baja Designs Squadron 3”×3” LED Pods in my friends experimental aircraft. The results were extremely impressive considering their tiny size and only 8 x XM-L2, but then it is an overpriced thoroughly engineered system with the emitters driven to around 3.2A each.

Again… the fun begins. Party

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For the lens cover im not to sure, i think that will be my last thing i will look for and i found a ebay member that has a nice light bar enclosure and i think i will get a good deal on some Smile

but if not i was thinking along the lines of modding this

aluminum box

id cut it to size and make 2 pieces out of aluminum for the sides and drill and tap for few screws and the front using a clear cover of some sort and maybe using Mag D deep reflectors or C8 reflectors mixed with ahorton aspheric lenses for throw ?

i was going to have like 3-4 mag reflectors on one side and 3-4 more on the other side with 2 of these in the middle with ahorton aspheric lenses housing

just few ideas lol

PS: wish i had some type of cad software it would look sweet all drawn up of the image that is in my head lol

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I forgot that the mag rebel reflector loves the XM-L (and can be found for around $6ea, if I remember correctly). But wasnt there some sort of issue with ordering more than 1 or 2; because they want the s/n off the battery tube to prevent people form ordering several?

Because of the extremes in different mounting depths between TIR and reflectors, I just may go with the idea of all 10 or 15 degree TIR’s for some midrange with flood. I figure that with around 40,000 lumens OTF, it should be fairly impressive. I’ve considered a bridgelux array or similar, but then there would be no throw.

Im looking forward to your build. You’ve got some great ideas and I like the mini light bar you linked. My only concern is in its small size and possible inability to properly transfer that much heat, especially at speeds less than around 15 mph. The fins do appear to be deep. Hopefully the thermal path is a solid Al to emitter MCPCB interface. 3 of those housings with a single DIWdiver would be sweet… if all else works as anticipated.

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Looking again at the specs on that housing, its super small. I think Id probably look for something else. Size: 145mm*48mm*78mm.

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FlashPilot wrote:
I forgot that the mag rebel reflector loves the XM-L (and can be found for around $6ea, if I remember correctly). But wasnt there some sort of issue with ordering more than 1 or 2; because they want the s/n off the battery tube to prevent people form ordering several.

The rebel reflector can be found here, not having to deal with mag instruments. http://www.zbattery.com/Maglite-D-Cell-LED-Reflector
nitro
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yes that will be to small for my parts ill search more for a larger size

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http://www.pirate4×4.com/forum/general-4×4-discussion/1073515-diy-high...

only thing is some of the supplies arent available on the sites he has listed but can find them else where if you search the product names

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After a huge amount of discussion with several others and a great deal of research, Ive decided to go with 40 x high quality C8 XM-L reflectors that have already proven to focus well. TIR optics simply dont provide the range necessary for my application and a tight spot would be all but useless on the trails. My only concern now is the very likely need to replace my alternator with something that will put out several more amps to power the LED array and HID’s.

Build thread here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/28113

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FlashPilot wrote:
After a huge amount of discussion with several others and a great deal of research, Ive decided to go with 40 x high quality C8 XM-L reflectors that have already proven to focus well. TIR optics simply dont provide the range necessary for my application and a tight spot would be all but useless on the trails. My only concern now is the very likely need to replace my alternator with something that will put out several more amps to power the LED array and HID’s.

Build thread here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/28113


perhaps you should just turn off your headlights and use the energy saved for your LEDs when they are running

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

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Bort wrote:
perhaps you should just turn off your headlights and use the energy saved for your LEDs when they are running

Im already doing that now with an illuminated switch tied to a relay controlling the headlights and HID’s. I calculate around 53 amps continuous with headlights off to power the LED’s, HID’s, running lights and vehicle.

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FlashPilot wrote:
Bort wrote:
perhaps you should just turn off your headlights and use the energy saved for your LEDs when they are running

Im already doing that now with an illuminated switch tied to a relay controlling the headlights and HID’s. I calculate around 53 amps continuous with headlights off to power the LED’s, HID’s, running lights and vehicle.


yeah, you need an upgraded alternator, how much do the HIDs take up?

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

FlashPilot
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Bort wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:
Bort wrote:
perhaps you should just turn off your headlights and use the energy saved for your LEDs when they are running

Im already doing that now with an illuminated switch tied to a relay controlling the headlights and HID’s. I calculate around 53 amps continuous with headlights off to power the LED’s, HID’s, running lights and vehicle.


yeah, you need an upgraded alternator, how much do the HIDs take up?

20A for the HID’s. Once I cobble it all together, I’ll turn everything on and test voltage at around 2000 rpm to see if it maintains. If it holds, I’ll probably have to go with something different after the diodes overheat and blow. Sad