Aaaah The L2 micro Video ...

http://www.youtube.com/user/Matti333#p/u/6/yyWbtu70TO4 http://www.youtube.com/user/Matti333#p/u/6/yyWbtu70TO4

Nice looking Micro L2 - what do I need to buy to turn mine into a micro?

Nothing - the body of a Solarforce L2 consists of two parts. Mine was glued together, so I took the body and boiled it in water for a few minutes. Still hot, the glue in the threads gave way and I could unscrew the head-part from the tube part. I would advise to use gloves, obviously ;)

After cleaning the dreadfull glue residue out of the threads, the tailcap screws right onto the head-part of the body. You can squeeze a CR2 cell in there and it works ok with a low voltage drop in. For a 16340 cell, you will have to shorten/remove either the spring on the tailcap or the dropin. Haven't tried that though.

Or you can do a few more mods and run a RCR123A ...

Mod1/ Romisen Clicky mod to tailcap ..

2nd Mod/ trim some length from the pill

I just tried it and it works. I was able to unscrew it by hand. theres not much threads there so i screwed the tailcap(forward clicky tailstand switch) on first then dropped the battery in through the head side. screwed on the head slightly and it was tight and it works! need to mod the spring so it closes a bit more. It is slightly shorter than the UF 501a

Picture 1 = L2 , L2m , L2s [ L2s = L2small or small 18650 ]

Picture 2 = L2 , L2m , L2micro

Picture 3 = L2 , L2m , 501A , L2micro

All lights run 16340 , excpet the L2 and L2s which run 18650

Thanks for posting this old! the whole light fits inside my hands.

Finally got a cr2 and its screwed on all the way on both ends. tried the rc g2 switch but the flange was not as big as the inside of the tailcap so i kept the stock forward clicky switch but used the spring from the dropin.(1 mode solarforce xml)

Thanks for posting this old.

Thats so cool james, makes me wish my Pro-2 head was low voltage! Then I could have a microflood :p

I just bought my first SolarForce today - an L2P - from SBFlashlights.
I am assuming the L2P disassembles the same way, but I won't be crushed if it does not.

Sorry to disappoint you tpilk, but the body of my L2P is one solid piece. Nothing to unscrew there... but it is a very nicely finished light, you will love it!

Thanks Confusius! As luck would have it, that order I placed got cancelled so I was able to get an L2 and an L2T from solarforce-sales instead.

I was thinking the L2 Micro would make an awesome bike light. It should be a lot floodier than the ultrafire MCU-C7 I am using now.

Nice pics old!

I cannot recall seeing a blow-out pic from L2 so here it is:

If you ONLY remove spring from dropin, this is how much gap there will be left between head and whats left from body

Using AW16340, no hope with Ultrafire:

Cannot quite fill that with twoway-clip :D

Notes, don´t do like I did.

I torched this light open, took about 1min and easy to open. Thing is, I didn´t know there´s an O-ring inside. Well, no biggie, it did not melt.

As I´m lazy and didn´t have motivation to go & get soldering iron, I also Torched that dropin spring away :p

What Romisen light or what tailclicky parts are needed to do that Romisen mod?

I noticed also, that without dropin spring, original assembly won´t work beacause 18650 is too short (doh).

Another thing: when you torch a spring, it goes red hot and loses it´s magic to deliver almost any current. On the bright side, you get ashtonishing Looooow-low :p

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1755 Tailcap mod ...

Also file down the front of the reflector to move the pill forward a little , the extra 2mm cant hurt .