The fake is probably a relabeled “good brand” recycled laptop cell. I can’t believe you are still messing around with the ultrafire batteries after having an explosion in a light. What battery exploded in your light?
If I was stranded in a dark place, I’d rather have the Fakes.
The reals came from WaPhat, that’s how I know they’re real.
Unless they’re faking their own batteries, hehe,
That would funny, haha.
The fakes are from one of those two initials companies.
Brand of explosion withheld to protect the innocent.
It was not an Ultrafire.
It was an 16340 in a tandem of 4.
Left on the light in upright position for way more than a year.
The 2nd next to the last couldn’t take it anymore.
I remember your post about trying to sell a bunch of batteries and flashlights.
If you are selling lights and batteries to the public. At least do them a favor and give them a decent brand protected cell. Especially in multi cell lights.
I’ve handled all kinds of brands
Panasonics, Sanyos, Duracells, Energizers,
Surefires, Ultrafires, Greatpowers, Xtars,
G&Rs, Singfires, PowerPLus, Tenergys, Likkis
and many more brands and OEMS and rebranded.
And they ALL LEAK in + or - amounts.
I’ve served the public well.
My customers still call me after a year.
I simply was trying to point out to
a good host as a side comments.
and all I get is orders
of what to do and not to do.
The thread is about the Ultrafire 18650 batteries.
Not my responsibility to the public.
Next time I know something from experience
(not what I’ve read from someone else.)
I’m taking the info to my grave.
Yes we all know you were once the great seller of flashlights and batteries. No one was telling you what to do just recommending not to as for the safety. You seem to have a chip on your shoulder about something. This forum is a helpful one and looks out for users and gives good info. Nobody trying to bash you as you seem to do it well to yourself alone. so if you want to take something “to the grave” go ahead and go now.
You might try “that other forum” as they like cocky know it alls.
Otherwise try to contribute with positivity and it will be returned to you.
One must be very careful in matching batteries when using multiple battery lights. I’ve heard to many horror stories about exploding lights not to believe that some of them are true.
That said, I have a Surefire M6 using a Lumens Factory IMR-M6 1000L lamp and it is running 6 AW 16340 IMR’s. Had it for several years and no issues at all.
I couldn't find a 2nd 3.7V so I used 7.4V on 502Bs 2batt ?????????????
Im sorry , you didnt have a 2nd 18650 (?) so you used two (?) 16340 ( I simply dont know what your trying to say )
I used 2 Ultrafire 2400mAh (real) unprotected. 2 Ultrafire 2800mAh (fake) " . The fakes lasted way longer than the reals. Fakes came out @ 3.25V. Reals came out @ 3.92V What gives?. Thank you for your usual kind replies. Carlos.
Ok , without actually knowing whats going on (flashlight) , the information you have provided ( remaining voltage ) , 3.25v = Pretty much depleted of power , 3.92v = still has power left , maybe 50% ( unless something funky is going on )
There is no actual constant with batteries , there is a general constant ..
Batteries with a resting voltage of around 3.5v are pretty much empty , they can power a light for some time if the current draw is low enough ( do we need to get into voltage sag under load ) .
A battery in good condition , after being depleted ( lets call it 3v under load ) , will have the resting voltage bounce back after period of rest ( the higher it bounces back can be a indication of how good a cell it is )
A resting voltage of 3.92v = a fair bit of power left
A resting voltage of 3.25v = a very depleted cell
So how do we analyse this : ???? Well you haven't given us any useful information , so going by the simple explanation you popped the batteries in a light and waited for it to dim does not really cut it , but lets try ..
And this is simply a guess ....
Current draw : A good quality battery may give much higher current , higher current = more voltage sag , the more the voltage sags the more the light dims (vF) again depending on variables such as direct drive or the driver involved ( but we have no such information )
Lets go with a driver that has 3v cut off = This means the driver turns the light off or goes into moon mode when the voltage reaches a certain point ( 3v )
So for arguments sake ( since we have no information ) lets say the good batteries did 3A current draw , this is a fair bit and depending on the battery can = quite a lot of voltage sag under load .. So because of the voltage sag reaches the cut of voltage much faster than a battery on a lower current draw ..
Now for the cheaper batteries , they might only be doing 1.5A ( again we dont know ) , so will have a lot less voltage sag , the combination of less voltage sag and lower current (Amps) means the light will run a lot longer , and discharge more ...
Since I have no idea of what the variables are , but I suspect my answer is about as close as you are going to get to what happen ...
Xenon - a few years ago Xenon was viable , but today its a underpowered ( output ) hight current ( input ) , emitter that is a great hand warmer ( cold climate )
Spend some time on Budgetlightforum , learn about XP-G and XM-L ...
XP-G and XM-L have made almost all other emitters some what redundant ... Especially if you factor in all the variables ..
Heat produced , run time , output VS current in , price , life expectancy .
me thinks you will be very happy with your Tangsfire!
I was a newb here several years ago. Bought my first light, a Xeno EO3 for $30. Today I think I have between 35-40 lights! Be careful! I have not progressed to a 4 battery light yet. If I could have a do-over, I would do it much differently. Research the lights, get opinions on them, buy a few good ones
I used my last remaining untouched incandescent minimag as a handwarmer a few days ago. It works surprisingly well when it is freakin’ –10* F… though not nearly as well as my BTU Shocker.
Thank you for reinforcing my idea about xenons for testing batteries.
They draw a lot of current. Good. They dim fast.
With an LED I would have to wait for hrs.
I have:
1 SST80 really an SST50.
My favorite so far.
1 Xtar D31 Howitzer. Probably MC2.
1 XM-L U2, Xtar R30.
1-SST XP7 Uniquefire.
1 XM-L2 U3 Ultrafire C12.
1 Xm-L2 ?? Ultrafire zoomable.
BTW, Ultrafire means flashlight in Chinese, hahaha!!!.
The last 2 I got from Dancelight in Ali.
Very bright and inexpensive, Less that 16US and
12US shipped.
I would have made tons of money
if I had these when I was in biz.
Plus a few keychain lights P4s.
Also a few stainless Steel
don’t know what emmiter they are, but very bright.
Also G&Rs 10440 5 steps. Which I dislike. But Bright.
I never use strobe or SOS. A hindrance in my case.
Also a few Q5s I kept for gifts. This were the
last big batch of LEDs I was selling.
Again, thank you all for your kind replies.
I’ve learned a lot in this forum.
And will learn way more given time.
This is all new to me.
Hard to teach an old dog new tricks, but doable.
