Help Needed Choosing a light and battery with charger

32 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States
Help Needed Choosing a light and battery with charger

Hi everyone and thanks in advance for helping find a new light.

I’m new to the forum and New to the flash light scene but I do enjoy them.

I work as a arcade tech and carnival ride maintenance and my current flashlight just died.

I had this exact one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12W-2000Lm-UltraFire-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Zoomable-Flashlight-Torch-26650-Charger-/281194794082?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item4178840c62

I’m looking to upgrade to a better one any help would be nice.

Things I liked about my old light
Size and Weight / long battery life / I enjoy Flood more than throw

Cons
Bad click on off switch / would flicker if dropped or shaken /

Current budget is set at $30-$40 including battery and I would need the items asap or no more than 2 weeks

18sixfifty
18sixfifty's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 1 month ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 20:19
Posts: 4161

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p...

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p...

This is a top of the line C8 flashlight. It’s small yet very bright. It’s durable and this is one of the best suppliers around, he is in the US and ships very fast. The batteries are very high quality. You might go over your budget by a little but this is a high quality light that is well worth it.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Flomotion
Flomotion's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 14 hours ago
Joined: 12/02/2012 - 15:13
Posts: 1405
Location: Pacific Northwest

Flomotion

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

18sixfifty wrote:
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p...

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&p...

This is a top of the line C8 flashlight. It’s small yet very bright. It’s durable and this is one of the best suppliers around, he is in the US and ships very fast. The batteries are very high quality. You might go over your budget by a little but this is a high quality light that is well worth it.

Thank you for that great flashlight suggestion, I think this one might be it for me. I’m gonna need the light, 2 batteries and a charger so its about $60 not including shipping so I’m gonna put this on my wish list.

I’m gonna wait and see if anyone might find one that’s almost as good for the budget if have, if not I’m gonna get this setup.

thanks again.

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 41 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8338
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

About $35 since you already have a charger

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1601/10002364/1212405

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001980/1141100-panasonic-ncr18650b-...

Or $30 if you want to save a few bucks with lower battery life

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001901/1136603-authentic-sanyo-ur18...

Keep in mind the heat generated on high will be a bit much, but think of it as a manual turbo, and heat build up faster if you tailstand a light vs in hand use

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

unknown00101
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 18 hours ago
Joined: 08/16/2013 - 11:53
Posts: 4344
Location: USA

$40 for a Flashlight, 2 batteries, and a charger.

That is going to be quite difficult to achieve and acquire quality items. Next to impossible if you want them within 2 weeks. You may want to save up and increase the available budget, or increase the amount of time in which you wish to receive them after ordering. USA shops are going to be a bit more expensive, but you’ll get the items within a week. Asian shops are going to be less expensive, but the shipping time could be anywhere from a week to 7+ weeks, depending on specific vendor and their shipping method.

I would suggest avoiding using the battery charger that came in the bundle you purchased. It may be a decent charger, or it may be a piece of junk that will cause a potentially deadly explosion in the near future. To be on the safe side, set it aside and buy a charger of known good-quality with the proper charging method and safe charge cutoffs. The risk is not worth saving the $8-15 it costs to get a good charger.

And I implore you to chuck that ultrafire battery in the trash ASAP. Absolutely not worth the risk for the $5-10 in savings.

Helios-
Helios-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 12 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2012 - 21:12
Posts: 2099

10+ everything unknown00101 said.
Ultrafire / _any_fire batteries are often counterfeit, poor quality, can be dangerous. Flashlight kits on ebay that include a battery & charger send the cheapest battery & charger they can get. They are often dangerous straight up. Seen several reports of the chargers dying or blowing up.

I recommend Starry Light SA-22 $24.99 – 880 Lumens, 4x AA, cree XM-L2. USA seller so you can get it quick. You can use alkaline AAs until you get ni-mh rechargables.

In li-ion only get batteries with quality protection. Panasonic NCR18650PF Protected Imho others should really not be suggesting unprotected li-ion. Mtnelectronics is run by RMM (Richard). Ships fast. Answers questions / provides suggestions on his blf sales thread. Just check that your light isn’t known to stupidly have problems fitting protected batteries. In that case IMR / Li-mn batteries would fit, they are ok unprotected. Panasonic CGR18650CH is IMR. Likely the same battery relabeled with a button top. I’d go button top.


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

southland
southland's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 11/04/2012 - 07:15
Posts: 3205
Location: Georgia, USA

Isn’t every battery linked unprotected, don’t you think he should be buying protected since he’s kind of new. Maybe all of the lights linked have drivers that stop at low voltage. The XinTD and Convoy are both great quality lights for the money. You will need to order from a USA company it you need it in 2 weeks or less so Fasttech is out.

Nbabu
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 10/04/2013 - 10:52
Posts: 152
Location: Netherlands

Maybe a Convoy C8 from Banggood? Seems like they ship pretty fast in the US (US warehouse I guess).

At Banggood you should also be able to find some cheap (but good) protected panasonic (or other brand) batteries and a deasant charger within budget.

When ordering with any of these vendors don’t forget to checkout the commercial sellers part of this forum for coupon/discount codes.

“Trout are freshwater fish and have underwater weapons”

Helios-
Helios-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 12 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2012 - 21:12
Posts: 2099

southland wrote:
Isn’t every battery linked unprotected, don’t you think he should be buying protected since he’s kind of new. Maybe all of the lights linked have drivers that stop at low voltage.
[…]

Imho nearly everyone should get protected. Very little reason not to. Li-ions were never meant by battery manufacturers to be sold or used unprotected.
Helios- wrote:
Any other device with li-ions has protection on the battery. Mobile phones, laptops. Even tablets & other devices with li-ions not meant to be user removable have protection attached to the cells. Battery manufacturers will tell you protection is required / not optional. Since cells are often made into multi cell battery packs they are sold bare as components. The end battery distributors that should add protection want save every cent & don’t care.

Overcharge protection needs to go with the battery. Overcurrent protection can help if a loose battery shorts in transport. Have you seen how some chinese sellers use to pack batteries for shipping?

Flashlight manufacturers are just stupid & don’t care when a light can’t fit the batteries. If those lights started getting less sales I bet they would learn how to measure a battery tube quick enough.


From this thread. Overdischarge protection is very important too but was talking about flashlights which had that in the driver.

Only those that want to push more amps then the overcurrent protection allows & want to risk it for the extra capacity over IMR should really be using unprotected. Need to be very experienced, knowledgeable & practice extra safety precautions. Without protection you can do internal damage making them dangerous.

Before RMM brought us his evva seiko protected panasoncs, quality protection was excessively expensive. $13-14 for one keeppower 3400? $4 extra per battery just for their name? $17 Orbtronic, $20 Xtar, $21 RediLast, $25 nitecore. All the same NCR18650B cell. At $9.75 for evva, little need to get mystery protection or unprotected anymore. Wallbuys had keeppower 3400s for $9.60 but they have raised it now. If you have family you live with, even more reason to want quality protection.

IMR / Li-mn are ok unprotected. Takes higher temperature to reach thermal runaway, aka “vent with flame” (or explosion if inside flashlight). IMR / Li-Mn 250°C vs li-ion 150°C. Doesn’t happen very often but that doesn’t help the people it does happen to. Even major brand name mobile phones & laptops with li-ions that would include quality protection have burned.


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

unknown00101
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 18 hours ago
Joined: 08/16/2013 - 11:53
Posts: 4344
Location: USA

I was thinking Convoy C8 as well, but he mentioned flood>throw.

I find for close range applications like OP is involved with that a thrower beam can get kind of annoying after a while, even with an OP reflector.

I was thinking more along the lines of sticking with a zoomie for the smooth and even beam.

SK-98 Zoomie 18650
Nitecore i2 Charger

Ordering from FastTech I’ve had the vast majority of orders arrive in less than 2 weeks. Many within 8 days. Make certain to select the following shipping method “USPS First-Class via Hong Kong Post FREE (8 to 14 working days in transit typical)”. Just note that you may not have the same results as me.

Now the batteries… Definitely go with Protected.
Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650B Protected
Edit: RMM said they’re due to arrive tuesday.

$23.28 [Flashlight & Charger] (Use Coupon at FastTech, enter when you open the cart click “have a coupon code?”, Coupon Code: BLF)
$20.89 [2× 18650]
_____
$44.17 Total (Includes shipping costs).

Helios-
Helios-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 12 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2012 - 21:12
Posts: 2099

To me keeppower charges too much for their name unless you find them on sale. Since RMM’s evva 3400 is out of stock Panasonic NCR18650PF Protected 2900mAh $8.75 seems to be the next best deal for seiko protection (same as evva 3400s) if you don’t want to wait.

Evva protection teardown & comparison with keeppower same seiko IC and 3 x AO8814 MOSFETs vs 2 for kp. Makes keeppower feel like a ripoff to me.

~ edit ~
RMM just posted that 3400s should be there Tuesday the 14th.


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

gregs656
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 7 months ago
Joined: 10/21/2013 - 13:25
Posts: 148
Location: West Sussex

I suggest you use a cheapie AA torch for a while, and figure out what you need to spend to get a few good batteries (I guess 18650s) and an appropriate charger – and then find a flashlight that will serve your purposes.

You budget at the moment will cover a few good batteries and a charger, or a good flashlight – but you would be doing well to get both.

mkett39
mkett39's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 11/03/2012 - 00:03
Posts: 293
Location: illinois

http://illuminationsupply.com/other-brands-c-28_98/starry-light-sa22-880...
http://illuminationsupply.com/chargers-c-48_51/nitecore-intellicharge-i2...
http://illuminationsupply.com/chargers-c-48_51/nitecore-intellicharge-i4...
http://illuminationsupply.com/convoy-c-28_92/convoy-s2-xml2-t6-neutral-w...
http://illuminationsupply.com/convoy-c-28_92/convoy-m1-xml2-t6-neutral-w...
http://illuminationsupply.com/batteries-c-48_50/18650-keeppower-2600mah-...

First is able to run on any AA batteries. very good price on two nitecore chargers that can be used for NiMH or lithium so if you decide on different battery chemistry this will be useful as you will only need one charger for what ever chemistry you choose. The convoy lights are a good light in the 18650 format, and a quality protected 18650 for good price. Good prices and fast shipping from quality vendor.

southland
southland's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 11/04/2012 - 07:15
Posts: 3205
Location: Georgia, USA

Choose link 2, 4, and 6 in the listing above and with shipping you are just a little over $40 and you will get it in a few days.

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 41 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8338
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

southland wrote:
Choose link 2, 4, and 6 in the listing above and with shipping you are just a little over $40 and you will get it in a few days.

The only thing i am not liking about the s2 is that it overheats too quickly, the M1 is a bit better at handling heat

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

unknown00101
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 18 hours ago
Joined: 08/16/2013 - 11:53
Posts: 4344
Location: USA

southland wrote:
Choose link 2, 4, and 6 in the listing above and with shipping you are just a little over $40 and you will get it in a few days.

$57.18 with shipping. (2 batteries, shipping is very high $9, and the charger is on backorder). Sad
southland
southland's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 11/04/2012 - 07:15
Posts: 3205
Location: Georgia, USA

I was going with one battery and didn’t know the charger was out of stock. Have bought 2 headlamps from IS and the shipping was only about 3 dollars for me and I’m on the east coast. Buy these , sell the other 3 for $7 each to make your money back and you can use that until you save a little more money.

unknown00101
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 18 hours ago
Joined: 08/16/2013 - 11:53
Posts: 4344
Location: USA
southland wrote:
I was going with one battery and didn’t know the charger was out of stock. Have bought 2 headlamps from IS and the shipping was only about 3 dollars for me and I’m on the east coast. Buy these , sell the other 3 for $7 each to make your money back and you can use that until you save a little more money.

They want $9 for shipping to me in the midwest; checked a random zipcode in California, showing $6.

I think the SK68 14500/AA, though a great light, wouldn’t have enough run-time.

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 41 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8338
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Have you considered repairing your current light, likely its one of three problems, the switch, LED or circuitry, and all are replaceable

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

I ordered this how did I do?
I went over my budget about $20-$25 if I’m willing to spend $40 on an OK quality light I might as well spend an extra $20 for a far better light.

Thank you guys for all the great recommendations. I do plan on buying more lights and saving money ordering from china sellers. I would like to use my old light that’s broken as a donor and order parts and build my own light from scratch.

XinTD C8 V4 XM-L2 U2 1C 18650 Flashlight

Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh x 2

Nitecore Intellicharger I4 V2

Now I noticed you guys talking about Protected and Un-Protected batteries. I bought Un-Protected I hope this is not bad a for a newb like me lol

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 41 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8338
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

acidtech wrote:
Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.

I read a greatly written post on this a while back but have no clue how to find it again

The switch is easy just try a paperclip to go from battery to body and see if it lights

The LED is trickier, but if you have a multimeter with diode test try it on the LED, it will only light up with a faint glow so do it in a not very brightly lit room. You can also try a resistance check on the switch

Circuitry is harder, you can try measuring LED voltage with the light on see if its getting anything, since you only have one light you can’t try other circuits on it

Also make sure your battery is not dead, what you have now is known for being junk, you can try 3AA batteries in series, that will light the LED, just not super bright for super long (NiMH is better, alkalines don’t do high current well). You can also use 2 alkalines or 3 nimh to test just the led, wire them in series, they can’t put out enough current to damage it.

The battery voltage should indicate its charge (but those junk batteries sometimes give high voltage when they are dead), less then 2.5V get rid of the battery and never try to use it again (it could explode), 2.8-3V is dead, 3.8V is about 40% charge, and 4.2V is filly charged.

Out of what you have the battery is the weakest link, the charger is the next weakest,then the switch and circuitry, its unlikely the body would be the problem, and its highly unlikely the LED is toast, Cree LEDs are almost bulletproof

acidtech wrote:
I ordered this how did I do?
I went over my budget about $20-$25 if I’m willing to spend $40 on an OK quality light I might as well spend an extra $20 for a far better light.

Thank you guys for all the great recommendations. I do plan on buying more lights and saving money ordering from china sellers. I would like to use my old light that’s broken as a donor and order parts and build my own light from scratch.

XinTD C8 V4 XM-L2 U2 1C 18650 Flashlight

Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh x 2

Nitecore Intellicharger I4 V2

Now I noticed you guys talking about Protected and Un-Protected batteries. I bought Un-Protected I hope this is not bad a for a newb like me lol

The light you bought is very throwy, the batteries are good quality and the charger is widely used by many BLFers who apparently have no problems with it
Protected would be better, if it got shorted in a toolbox it would prevent catastrophic failure, but as long as you know how to use li ion batteries safely you won’t have any problems, i have no protected and have used hundreds of li ion charges of flashlighting.
This hold an 18650 very effectively
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Match-Holder/13848642

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

Bort wrote:
acidtech wrote:
Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.

I read a greatly written post on this a while back but have no clue how to find it again

The switch is easy just try a paperclip to go from battery to body and see if it lights

The LED is trickier, but if you have a multimeter with diode test try it on the LED, it will only light up with a faint glow so do it in a not very brightly lit room. You can also try a resistance check on the switch

Circuitry is harder, you can try measuring LED voltage with the light on see if its getting anything, since you only have one light you can’t try other circuits on it

Also make sure your battery is not dead, what you have now is known for being junk, you can try 3AA batteries in series, that will light the LED, just not super bright for super long (NiMH is better, alkalines don’t do high current well). You can also use 2 alkalines or 3 nimh to test just the led, wire them in series, they can’t put out enough current to damage it.

The battery voltage should indicate its charge (but those junk batteries sometimes give high voltage when they are dead), less then 2.5V get rid of the battery and never try to use it again (it could explode), 2.8-3V is dead, 3.8V is about 40% charge, and 4.2V is filly charged.

Out of what you have the battery is the weakest link, the charger is the next weakest,then the switch and circuitry, its unlikely the body would be the problem, and its highly unlikely the LED is toast, Cree LEDs are almost bulletproof

I think its the driver, or the switch. The LED emitter lights up when hooked up straight to the battery. The battery voltage is around 4.0v – 4.1v. Can you provide me links to where I can find replacement parts for that light?
HWAWTS UltraFire XML-T6 This is my first post with pic of the light I have.

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 41 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8338
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

acidtech wrote:
Bort wrote:
acidtech wrote:
Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.

I read a greatly written post on this a while back but have no clue how to find it again

The switch is easy just try a paperclip to go from battery to body and see if it lights

The LED is trickier, but if you have a multimeter with diode test try it on the LED, it will only light up with a faint glow so do it in a not very brightly lit room. You can also try a resistance check on the switch

Circuitry is harder, you can try measuring LED voltage with the light on see if its getting anything, since you only have one light you can’t try other circuits on it

Also make sure your battery is not dead, what you have now is known for being junk, you can try 3AA batteries in series, that will light the LED, just not super bright for super long (NiMH is better, alkalines don’t do high current well). You can also use 2 alkalines or 3 nimh to test just the led, wire them in series, they can’t put out enough current to damage it.

The battery voltage should indicate its charge (but those junk batteries sometimes give high voltage when they are dead), less then 2.5V get rid of the battery and never try to use it again (it could explode), 2.8-3V is dead, 3.8V is about 40% charge, and 4.2V is filly charged.

Out of what you have the battery is the weakest link, the charger is the next weakest,then the switch and circuitry, its unlikely the body would be the problem, and its highly unlikely the LED is toast, Cree LEDs are almost bulletproof

I think its the driver, or the switch. The LED emitter lights up when hooked up straight to the battery. The battery voltage is around 4.0v – 4.1v. Can you provide me links to where I can find replacement parts for that light?
HWAWTS UltraFire XML-T6 This is my first post with pic of the light I have.


What diameter is the driver?
17mm is the easiest to replace, some lights have 18 or 20mm.
You should be able to yank out the switch, many lights have a metal retaining ring holding it in, unscrew that and push the parts out hte front, if you can post a pic i bet someone will be able to recommend a better quality one.
Do try bypassing the switch with a paperclip to see if that is whats wrong with the light first

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

Bort wrote:
acidtech wrote:
Bort wrote:
acidtech wrote:
Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.

I read a greatly written post on this a while back but have no clue how to find it again

The switch is easy just try a paperclip to go from battery to body and see if it lights

The LED is trickier, but if you have a multimeter with diode test try it on the LED, it will only light up with a faint glow so do it in a not very brightly lit room. You can also try a resistance check on the switch

Circuitry is harder, you can try measuring LED voltage with the light on see if its getting anything, since you only have one light you can’t try other circuits on it

Also make sure your battery is not dead, what you have now is known for being junk, you can try 3AA batteries in series, that will light the LED, just not super bright for super long (NiMH is better, alkalines don’t do high current well). You can also use 2 alkalines or 3 nimh to test just the led, wire them in series, they can’t put out enough current to damage it.

The battery voltage should indicate its charge (but those junk batteries sometimes give high voltage when they are dead), less then 2.5V get rid of the battery and never try to use it again (it could explode), 2.8-3V is dead, 3.8V is about 40% charge, and 4.2V is filly charged.

Out of what you have the battery is the weakest link, the charger is the next weakest,then the switch and circuitry, its unlikely the body would be the problem, and its highly unlikely the LED is toast, Cree LEDs are almost bulletproof

I think its the driver, or the switch. The LED emitter lights up when hooked up straight to the battery. The battery voltage is around 4.0v – 4.1v. Can you provide me links to where I can find replacement parts for that light?
HWAWTS UltraFire XML-T6 This is my first post with pic of the light I have.


What diameter is the driver?
17mm is the easiest to replace, some lights have 18 or 20mm.
You should be able to yank out the switch, many lights have a metal retaining ring holding it in, unscrew that and push the parts out hte front, if you can post a pic i bet someone will be able to recommend a better quality one.
Do try bypassing the switch with a paperclip to see if that is whats wrong with the light first

I’m not sure what size, the lights at work and I’m out for the next 2 days. I’ll be sure to try bypassing the switch and I’ll keep you posted. When I get the chance I’ll make another posting out with pics and questions on how to upgrade or bring back my old light from the dead.
I was also thinking of getting a really floody head lamp or any super floody light that pocketable. Do you know where I should start looking?

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 41 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8338
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

acidtech wrote:
Bort wrote:
acidtech wrote:
Bort wrote:
acidtech wrote:
Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.

I read a greatly written post on this a while back but have no clue how to find it again

The switch is easy just try a paperclip to go from battery to body and see if it lights

The LED is trickier, but if you have a multimeter with diode test try it on the LED, it will only light up with a faint glow so do it in a not very brightly lit room. You can also try a resistance check on the switch

Circuitry is harder, you can try measuring LED voltage with the light on see if its getting anything, since you only have one light you can’t try other circuits on it

Also make sure your battery is not dead, what you have now is known for being junk, you can try 3AA batteries in series, that will light the LED, just not super bright for super long (NiMH is better, alkalines don’t do high current well). You can also use 2 alkalines or 3 nimh to test just the led, wire them in series, they can’t put out enough current to damage it.

The battery voltage should indicate its charge (but those junk batteries sometimes give high voltage when they are dead), less then 2.5V get rid of the battery and never try to use it again (it could explode), 2.8-3V is dead, 3.8V is about 40% charge, and 4.2V is filly charged.

Out of what you have the battery is the weakest link, the charger is the next weakest,then the switch and circuitry, its unlikely the body would be the problem, and its highly unlikely the LED is toast, Cree LEDs are almost bulletproof

I think its the driver, or the switch. The LED emitter lights up when hooked up straight to the battery. The battery voltage is around 4.0v – 4.1v. Can you provide me links to where I can find replacement parts for that light?
HWAWTS UltraFire XML-T6 This is my first post with pic of the light I have.


What diameter is the driver?
17mm is the easiest to replace, some lights have 18 or 20mm.
You should be able to yank out the switch, many lights have a metal retaining ring holding it in, unscrew that and push the parts out hte front, if you can post a pic i bet someone will be able to recommend a better quality one.
Do try bypassing the switch with a paperclip to see if that is whats wrong with the light first

I’m not sure what size, the lights at work and I’m out for the next 2 days. I’ll be sure to try bypassing the switch and I’ll keep you posted. When I get the chance I’ll make another posting out with pics and questions on how to upgrade or bring back my old light from the dead.
I was also thinking of getting a really floody head lamp or any super floody light that pocketable. Do you know where I should start looking?


head lamps i know nothing about, for floody pocket lights i use a convoy s2, it overheats quickly and is probably about as long as your broken light but it works well, it has a hotspot but is still quite floody

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Rusty Joe
Rusty Joe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 30 min ago
Joined: 07/24/2011 - 00:22
Posts: 3624
Location: Houston, TX

Lots of great suggestions here, but the one I can personally attest to is this.

Helios-
Helios-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 12 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2012 - 21:12
Posts: 2099

acidtech wrote:

Now I noticed you guys talking about Protected and Un-Protected batteries. I bought Un-Protected I hope this is not bad a for a newb like me lol

Send Richard a message and you can switch to the same batteries with high quality protection. He even lists his phone number. Mtnelectronics contact.
Li-ions were not intended to be used without protection. Battery manufacturers say protection is required on li-ions. People are just use to taking the extra risk with unprotected because quality protection use to be excessively expensive before mntelectronics, unless you ran into a great sale. Little reason to go unprotected anymore for most users.

For a headlight they also have headband flashlight holders. $4 basic one. The nitecore HB02 has a top mount that can be slid forward or back to adjust the angle. When you don’t need a headlight you can just use the flashlight normally & keep the headband in a pocket.


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

Helios- wrote:
acidtech wrote:

Now I noticed you guys talking about Protected and Un-Protected batteries. I bought Un-Protected I hope this is not bad a for a newb like me lol

Send Richard a message and you can switch to the same batteries with high quality protection. He even lists his phone number. Mtnelectronics contact.
Li-ions were not intended to be used without protection. Battery manufacturers say protection is required on li-ions. People are just use to taking the extra risk with unprotected because quality protection use to be excessively expensive before mntelectronics, unless you ran into a great sale. Little reason to go unprotected anymore for most users.

For a headlight they also have headband flashlight holders. $4 basic one. The nitecore HB02 has a top mount that can be slid forward or back to adjust the angle. When you don’t need a headlight you can just use the flashlight normally & keep the headband in a pocket.

Items have shipped, so I guess I’ll learn more about Li-on battery care.

acidtech
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 10/14/2013 - 02:20
Posts: 15
Location: California / United States

Thanks everyone for helping me choose a light, I’ll post pics when I get a chance. I am now 100% officialy hooked on lights, the wife says thanks. lol Big Smile

XinTD C8 V4 XM-L2 U2 1C 18650

Pages