I’m thinking of ordering a #8 and #10 Opinel. The #8 is available in Walnut which I like the looks of but only comes with the INOX blade. Should I skip the Walnut and try to refinish the Beechwood darker or is the INOX ok?
Thanks
Depends on what you expect from the knife. The inox and carbon steel blades offer an quite different cutting experience.
If you are looking for the great slicing capabilities the Opinels are known for, you might be not to happy with the inox one. One the other hand, you don’t have to be so careful with the inox blade.
(I personally prefer the carbon steel blade for it’s beautiful looks and cutting properties.)
I stained mine #6 with walnut stain and am quite happy with it. 
Did it get dark like Walnut? What type of stain did you use?
I have #8 too, and carbon is my choise. After it gets good oxidation on the surface, its easy to maintain; just wipe it clean and keep it dry. Easy to keep sharp as well.
Opinel is easy and nice knife, doesn´t look offensive, no one thinks it as a weapon but as a tool, and its nice to go back to simple things after having more high-tech folding knives!
I used a local stain called ‘consolan’, its just plain water-based wood stain. The nontoxic children’s toy safe kind. I sadly don’t know any foreign/overseas brands.
Well, I did not try to make it really dark. I wanted it to look worn, so I stained and sanded it half down again for 3 or 4 times.
The spot in the picture is the only one which is not sanded and in reality darker and non-glaring.
IMHO get both. You have to handle a carbon steel blade to understand the pros and cons.
But I’m in France so it’s cheap.
I don’t mind that at all.
I haven’t had much luck staining beech before. I think I will try again.
I would prefer the carbone blade but the dark wood looks so nice against the lock ring so I’ll try staining the beech. I may have to end up getting the walnut in the end after all.
Carbon steel. It’s the very reason why some buy Opinel. I’ve also heard of people staining the handle with wood reviver :
Is that sanded or stripped and sanded?
I think sometimes the stripper soaks into the wood and gives an uneven stain.
Or
You could blowtorch it ...
I think stripped and sanded is better. On their website they say the ‘Colron Wood Reviver’ feeds, revitalises and nourishes bare wood after it has been stripped, providing a protective surface PRIOR to finishing.
For finishing, the next step is staining for an even finish. Then seal and protect with a coat of clear varnish.
If I could get that colour from Beech then that with a Tung finish is how I’d proceed. Any idea of the wood on that handle?
I’d get both. You could pry the lock ring off to switch the blades. Oh, the Morakniv classic handle are birch.
I thought that it was hard to get the pins out.
You are suggesting getting the #8 INOX in Walnut and a carbone #8 and switching the blades?
I was thinking of a #8 with reshaped handle for EDC and a #10 for campsite food prep duties.
Are those sizes about right?
I have 3x#8s, 1#10, 1x#12 1x#12 saw and several of the #6 and smaller. The small ones are all INOX but my preference is for the carbone steel blades, they are fantastic slicers and cutters.
I’d not bother with the more expensive walnut even though they are a great looker, you can make the beech ones look just as good but obviously without the grain of the walnut.
That “torched” handle of jacktheclipper’s looks great, an oil finish over that would darken it slightly but it looks good as it is.
Personally I wouldn’t bother stripping the original finish on the beech Opinels, sand it down well, if you spend what you would have spent on stripper on some good sandpaper or wet/dry paper in medium to fine grit you can get a really smooth finish.
I’ve used this Flexovit brand with good results. I find wet/dry is less messy and doesn’t drop grit like most sandpapers do. These sanding blocks are great as well. Tape the blade and Virobloc before you start to avoid scratching them.
Finish using a spirit based stain and lacquer over the top of a stained wax or a stain and wax over the top. I.ve left mine in the bare wood as I refer the feel. The saw I’ve left in the original finish with just a very light sanding with a fine grit just to remove any rough spots that could start a blister.
I shaped a couple to fit my hand, pencil round your fingers while gripping the handle then “introduce” it to the Dremel :bigsmile:
A #8 after a Dremelling.
The widened blade slot combined with the lower sides of the handle means that a previously very tight #8 can now be opened easily. Also I popped off the locking ring and eased the pivot slightly with a large screwdriver.
Opinels are great for “improving”, they are so inexpensive that you can get stuck into them without fear of destroying an expensive folder.
I post this link to most threads that are about Opinels, fantastic craftsmanship. Opinel sell oversized blanks specifically for carvers.
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Carved and customized Opinels.
Very nice. I definately want to try a shaped handle. Looks so much better, even folded.
It makes them a lot lighter and easy to grip but you can get “breakthrough” to the blade slot if you’re a bit enthusiastic with the Dremel.
Oh, I meant get two #8 and use the carbone blade with walnut handle. I have small hands so #7 is perfect for me. #10 would be a nice size for food prep.