Ultrafire sk98 clone mod (bling)

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PH_Oton
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Ultrafire sk98 clone mod (bling)

Hi! My name is Oton, i am 20 years old and I’m reading this forum for about last 2 months, 7 days a week, few hours a day ( I don’t have better things to do) Smile . I’ve learned here a lot about various emitters, bins, tints, CRI, optics and many other useful informations. I just wanna say BIG thank you to all of you! Since i was kid i was fascinated with artificial sources of light and transforming energy into it. When i was 8 years old my grandfather gave me flashlight and that was my first flashlight ever… since then it all began.

I have bought Ultrafire sk98 clone and it was the brightest flashlight that i have ever own, but i knew it could be a litle bit better. 3 weeks ago i ordered XM-L2 U2-1A on copper MCPCB, KD 8xAMC1735 V2 driver and 23mm glass aspherics.
Yesterday the postman knocked my door :bigsmile: . Let the modding begin!

First thing i’ve noticed when i opened the package is that the pill in my sk98 clone is for 20mm driver and u all know that the KD driver is 17mm. Immediately there was unexpected problem. I was angry at myself because i have not measure it |( , but not for long because i realized that i must make adapter and only material from what i can make it is copper pipe Silly . I cut the pipe to required depth and use the file to adapt it for the pill and driver. Because the pill is narrow i’ ve
made a copper disc from the same pipe for the better thermal path.

Meanwhile the emitter was soaking in the petrol…

Dedoming finished after cleaning the die with isopropyl alcohol Smile It was not perfect because i was scared of touching bond wires.

For elimination of resistance i made “spring” from copper wire. Actually it’s not the spring due its inflexibility.

I have forgot take the photo of assembling. I’ve used the thickest leads that can fit in the modified pill.

The pill fully assembled.

I’ve sanded the anodisation from the body and polished it.
BLING BLING Silly

Moonlight mod

SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH AND EXPRESSION.
Thanks for reading!
Oton.

Edited by: PH_Oton on 01/21/2014 - 15:01
unknown00101
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Wicked, love the surface sanding/polishing with the black in the indentations. Looks great.

PH_Oton
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I forgot to mention tailcap readings. 2,95A with cheap DMM with long leads.
I’m using LG ICR18650D1 pink
The flashlight throws 400 meters measured by eye and google earth. That should be around 40kcd Smile

PH_Oton
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unknown00101 wrote:
Wicked, love the surface sanding/polishing with the black in the indentations. Looks great.

Yeah… it looks much nicer now Smile
jacktheclipper
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Welcome to the BLF .

Great mod .

What I do

 

MRsDNF
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Hi and welcome PH_Oton. You have built yourself a nice little thrower there.

 

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djozz
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Nice looking light Smile and a well done mod!

Sometimes I wished I had all the time in the world for flashlight modding....

Ledsmoke
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I love the polished looks of that light. Great mod. Thank you for signing up to share. Welcome to BLF Smile

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PH_Oton
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djozz wrote:

Nice looking light Smile and a well done mod!

Sometimes I wished I had all the time in the world for flashlight modding….


I have literally all the time in the world but no money whatsoever :~
As soon as I sell some unnecesary stufs there will be more mods by me Smile
PH_Oton
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Thanks to everyone for the welcome! Smile

Omega_17
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Welcome to BLF ! That a gorgeous light you got there. Silly

How did you do the polishing ? Small grain sand paper ? It look like stainless steel !

If you wanted pure thrower de-domed XP-G2 LED would have been even better.

PH_Oton
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Omega_17 wrote:
Welcome to BLF ! That a gorgeous light you got there. Silly

How did you do the polishing ? Small grain sand paper ? It look like stainless steel !

If you wanted pure thrower de-domed XP-G2 LED would have been even better.


Thanks for welcome! First step was with 400 sand paper, second with 500, third with 1500 and final with 2000. After that finished with some polish paste.
I knew that xp-g2 would be better for throw but my goal was ultimate all-rounder.
salim
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Welcome, looks very nice now and great mod.

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Nice one !
Welcome to BLF.. Smile

"In the land of the blond the one eyed man is king."

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JaffoAZ
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I love it! Loos like I’ll at least be messing with the finish on my SK98 clone. Welcome to BLF!

One question – I was under the impression that to get the increased throw by de-doming an emitter depended on the way the more widespread light formed a tighter hot spot from the reflector. I de-domed the LED in my Trustfire Z8 without thinking about that and all I did was lose some lumens. LOL. Since these zoomies don’t have conventional reflectors, I’m trying to imagine how de-doming improves anything…

Still, killer mod. Thank you!

JAFFO

Tom E
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Very Nice mod Oton!

That copper star may not have a true direct thermal path from the center pad under the LED to the bottom of the star though. It must be this one: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022418. You would have been better off with this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm20-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-1a-led-p-749.html. I used to use the KD drivers but found the Nanjg's and QLite's better/easier to work with.

I've done several zoom lights though, and even though they can't get as much output as a reflector based light, they do come in handy with the zoom function, and can be easily improved with a mod like you have done. The use of the copper pipe to solve the 2 problems: 17mm driver to 20 mm fit and the "hollow pill" (no top on the pill) looks to be well done!

Also, making the copper spring is pretty original stuff there.

Edit: Can't recall the exact #'s, but de-doming an XP-G2 in a T20 zoomie definitely helped in throw, compared to with dome. Believe I got about 135 kcd de-domed, and think about 75 kcd domed. So, think you are doing better de-domed in any zoomie for throw, but lose about 15-20% in lumens.

JaffoAZ
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Ah, good to know. Still confusing that it increases throw without the reflector…weird.

JAFFO

PH_Oton
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Tom E wrote:

Very Nice mod Oton!

That copper star may not have a true direct thermal path from the center pad under the LED to the bottom of the star though. It must be this one: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022418. You would have been better off with this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm20-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-1a-led-p-749.html. I used to use the KD drivers but found the Nanjg’s and QLite’s better/easier to work with.

I’ve done several zoom lights though, and even though they can’t get as much output as a reflector based light, they do come in handy with the zoom function, and can be easily improved with a mod like you have done. The use of the copper pipe to solve the 2 problems: 17mm driver to 20 mm fit and the “hollow pill” (no top on the pill) looks to be well done!

Also, making the copper spring is pretty original stuff there.

Edit: Can’t recall the exact #‘s, but de-doming an XP-G2 in a T20 zoomie definitely helped in throw, compared to with dome. Believe I got about 135 kcd de-domed, and think about 75 kcd domed. So, think you are doing better de-domed in any zoomie for throw, but lose about 15-20% in lumens.

Thx for advice about thermal path. I’ve noticed that the copper star form KD is a bit curved and i was thinking about sanding it for better thermal path but since i’ve applied thermal paste mixed together with bits of filed copper from rasping the copper pipe i’ve find it good enaugh. Body is warming under a minute on high mode which tells me that the thermal path is sufficient. I was impressed with yours and djozz’s T-twenties with dedomed xp-g2. First minute after reading that specific mod uf-t20 was immediately in my wishlist Love

EDIT: Yeah… zoomies are gr8 all-rounders Smile

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Nice mod, I like the bling and the desk cloth most.

In former times I fell in love with the sk98 as well(when xmlU3 was THE THING) but today I seldom use it because I hate all the light what the aspherical steals and focused the beam isn’t really tight because of the XML, so I am a bit away from zoomies. Also the switches are most high resistance ones…
Check these 20mm adapterings for future mods
Mixing copper rasping in thermal paste is not ideal, the paste is just for bridging micro gaps between star and pill. Any rasp will be much thicker than useful…
But driven at 2.5A this is no big deal either.

PH_Oton
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Thx Werner for the link of adapters. About rasp… I thought about that but since the diy copper plate was not perfectly leveled with the pill so I thought that mixing would be useful but as you said the point of thermal paste is for filling micro gaps.I shouldn’t mix it… From time to time I take the switch apart and clean the contacts for eliminating as much resistance as possible. Btw emitter is driven at 3 amps(probably Silly ) .

Werner
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These adapter plates save a lot of work, I have once soldered a wire around a nanjg to fit it to 20mm, very ugly and took a while until it fitted and made good contact.

These drivers fall out of regulation very fast with decreasing voltage, with the switch resistance you will faster have a <2.5A driven LED than you can imagine.

PH_Oton
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I’ve came back with tailcap readings. With short thick copper wires my cheap dmm showed 3.22A with fresh battery. I’ve tried to measure resistance of tailcap on 200ohm range. It showed 00.0 but after 5-6 seconds it showed 00.1ohm. I’ll try to modify it with some solder but I think there will be no much gain in terms of reduced resistance.

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I am planning similar driver for my Raysoon TD-398. I ordered an adapter plate. Guess I need to solder it to the back of the driver. Your copper is better but maybe the plate will be easier. I like this style for mod because of the cooling.
Nice polish. I have diamond sand paper. Wonder if I could polish the black anodizing with it.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Werner
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These adapters are made for nanjg, it’s very easy just stick the spring through the hole and solder it to the middle pad. Add a piece of wire from the outer ring of the adapter to the nanjg for ground contact.
—-
Nice to see that you now can measure current, despite 3.2A seems a bit high…

Have you soldered the brass part of the switch to the switch itself? This helps a lot. I would supply a photo but imageshack is sucking at the moment…
I am not sure if I have modified the switch innards but I am really sure that it was crappy on stock form in the sipik and in the ultrafire branded version I got. Maybe you got a better version.

Just before a few days I played again with it to test a direct drive driver, which puts 10A through a triple XML board…this is what I call hot.

PH_Oton
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Maybe my DMM is calibrated for stock leads and that’s the reason why my measuring result is bit higher than it should be. My version had 5 mode driver with dreadful next mode memory and screw plate for tightening emitter star to the pill. Thx for idea of soldering direct on the switch. Soldering iron is heating up Smile

EDIT: I’ve disassembled the switch and apply solder on all three contact plates.

Werner
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These cheap DMM normally just have a piece of copper wire as shunt resistor to measure current. They “calibrate” them with pinching them with pliers, this can be done by yourself too. But you will need a known current to “calibrate” against.
—-
That is the best way to go on these switches. That reduces resistance a lot on cheap switches.
If you ever identify one which routes the battery negative contact through the spring, replace it immediately these will melt down on high currents.

The omten spare switches from fancyflashlights seem to be the best replacement they have near to zero resistance. It’s handy to have some around as these small switch parts can get lost fast…
I always plug switches/tailcaps to my bench power supply and push 3-5A through it, I measure the voltage drop to judge about them.

PH_Oton
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I will get some omtens for my future mods. I was planing placing order From FT but since China is celebrating lunar new year I have to be patient.

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Nice polish and great mod. Thanks for sharing! Smile

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Great Mod! Nice polish job on the light. Good to see anyone doing more modding.Smile

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Very nice. I loved the polished look. Could you elaborate on how you did the polishing?

PH_Oton
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Thanks Old-Lumens. You inspire me with your adroitness and adaptability! Smile

Racer wrote:
Very nice. I loved the polished look. Could you elaborate on how you did the polishing?

Scroll at post #11 …. After P500 sand paper two other steps (with P1500 and P2000) are done in washbowl with water. It’s was a lot of work mainly because machining on my sk98 clone was nasty and rough. Hours of work… Polishing is done with “Purol univerzal” since I didn’t have anything better. You’ll be better of with “Autosol” polishing paste.

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