Ultrafire LZZ-06 AAA light with pocket clip 0.9-4.2v

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ImA4Wheelr
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Here is the top and bottom of the driver in the Jexree Mini:

ImA4Wheelr
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Measured emitter current this morning as flollows:

High - 320 mA

Low - 110 mA

Tonight I will add a resistor to see how current changes.

ImA4Wheelr
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Trying to find out more about this driver.  It looks very similar to this driver which is good for (0.8-3.2Vdc) - AAA (350mA) and 2AAA (700 mA, 1000mA optional).  Can have various modes including it appears a ramping mode.  Even has stacked resistors (top being R270).  Does have one less capacitor.  The small one in my picture above.

If anyone has this driver, I would be interested in knowing if the components are labeled the same as I specified in Post 30 above.

EDIT: Also similar to this 1-mode driver

My Google-fu is fued out.  Guess it's just time to experiment with the driver.  Was hoping to find info about mod options and current regulation.  Wondering if changing resistor values changes voltage output or current output.

If anyone know anything about the driver in Post 30 above, please tell me.

ImA4Wheelr
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The resistor under the R300 is a 271 ohms.  Odd.

Well, I tried different resistor combinations, but could not get current to increase.  Replacing the stock resistors with an R200 yielded the same current but no modes other than high. The driver does not like having 2S cells.  Only gives a moonlight mode of .04 amps.  After trying 2S, the driver modes changed to High, moonlight, strobe.

Even out of the light, the modes are wonky at times.

It looks like the driver should not be altered and just kept as a 300mA single Ni-mh driver.  Good for run time.  I think for gifting purposes, I will just yank the mode chip and to yield a one mode driver.  Have to take some pin readings to figure out how to do that.

ericandor
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Hi,

CFBOW chip seems to be PAM2805 (ds) or its clone.
Hope that helps.

Best wishes

ImA4Wheelr
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Thank you ericandor.  I went to that site and searched for one with the label "ECA1R" with no luck.  I will try again tonight.

I assumed the chip is functionally the same and pulled the chip.  When I shorted the Vin and Vout pads no light came one.  I'm in a rush.  So I will try again tonight.  Maybe the chip is needed for other parts of the circuit too.  Looking at the diagram in the data sheet doesn't indicate to me it's necessary.

Thank you again. 

ericandor
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ericandor wrote:
Hi,

CFBOW chip seems to be PAM2805 (ds) or its clone.
Hope that helps.

Best wishes

My mistake…

That is what I have found regarding PAM280*
(X – internal code, Y – year code, W – week code)

CD X Y W – PAM2801 – single mode, 1W
CF X Y W – PAM2803 – single mode, 3W
EC X Y W – PAM2805 – 3-modes (100%/25%/STROBE), 3W
EE(?) X Y W – PAM2806 – 5-modes (100%/25%/50%/STROBE/SOS), 3W

So it seems that CFBOW is actually PAM2803, and ECA1R is PAM2805.

(added info about 2806 and modes)

ericandor
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Measured emitter current this morning as flollows:

High – 320 mA

Low – 110 mA

Tonight I will add a resistor to see how current changes.

I believe that 320mA is max you can get out of 1xAAA NiMH.
If you look at the PAM2805 specs, you will see that to deliver 350mA emitter current it needs to pull around 2A from AAA (at 1.2V).

Try to replace resistor with higher value one, eg. 1 Ohm should give you 95mA emitter current Wink

ImA4Wheelr
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Thank you again ericandor.  Very good info.

There are some AAA drivers marketed at 500mA drivers, but I have never tried to measure them.  I guess just means they are capable of delivering 500mA if the cell could deliver it.  Or, it's just marketing hype.

What you say makes sense though because current starts dropping to around 270mA soon after start up.  It's not thermal sag because I can let the emitter cool off and the current will still only be 270mA using the same cell.

I will take all the info you gave me take another crack at the light tonight.  It sounds like this driver might be fairly efficient.  I need to measure input current to verify.

By the way, welcome to the forum ericandor!

lagman
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What would you recommend, this one or:
http://www.dx.com/p/319073
?

My English isn’t perfect but I’m trying to improve it. If you see something that doesn’t sound right or is just plain wrong, please feel free to point it out! Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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I like them both, but I favor the Jexree Mini because it's shorter, lighter, has a bigger reflector, has a stronger clip and is a twisty.  I think it is quite a bit brighter, but I haven't compared side by side yet.  I just need to figure out how to fix the wonky mode switching in the Jexree. Pretty sure I will just turn it into a 1 mode.  I want these to be good gift lights that run on Ni-mh.

At $4.67 each, I can buy a new driver if I have to and still have about the same cost.  I'm really surprised that the price.  Seems well made and the finish is proving durable too.  Glass lens and aluminum reflector too.

ericandor
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
… I just need to figure out how to fix the wonky mode switching in the Jexree. …

Check BLK capacitor, I guess that it is used for mode switching, strobe and dimming.

ImA4Wheelr
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I saw that in the data sheet and wondered about that.  I don't know how to test a capacitor.  I didn't test if for continuity, but it looked well soldered.  Pretty much everyone that has got this light has commented on the mode switching.  So I'm thinking its a issue with that mode chip.

Maybe they all have bad caps.  I do have a bunch of 1uf smd's. I could try to swap in one tonight.

ImA4Wheelr
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Hey, do you think pulling the BLK cap will make it pretty much always come on in High mode?

EDIT:  I'm wondering if I fried the BLK cap last night with too much heat because mode switching was not that bad once I fixed the driver seating.

I think I will try as you advise and check into that cap. Afterwards, I may swap in 10uf caps on the input and output since the data sheet indicates that bigger will be better.  I don't know what is on the driver stock.  I'm assuming they used min. acceptable per the data sheet.

Another interesting item.  The data sheet indicates the chip can take 6V max. 

ericandor
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Hey, do you think pulling the BLK cap will make it pretty much always come on in High mode?

It depends on default mode of that chip Wink I have came across ones which has STROBE as default.
I have never really done that, but most likely it would be needed to short BLK pin to GND.
(Just search BLF for “next mode pencil hack”).

ericandor
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
… Maybe they all have bad caps. …

I think that swapping it with known value one should be the easiest way to verify that :).

ImA4Wheelr
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Thanks again ericandor.  Will try cap replacement first.  I will report back on results after I work on this tonight. 

The more I read the data sheet, the more I like this chip.  I need to see if the driver followed the placement recommendations in the data sheet.

ericandor
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Thanks again ericandor.  Will try cap replacement first.  I will report back on results after I work on this tonight.

No problem! Can’t wait Smile
ImA4Wheelr wrote:
The more I read the data sheet, the more I like this chip.  I need to see if the driver followed the placement recommendations in the data sheet.

Check PAM2801 spec, it is really interesting!

Diode used is 1A (2A recommended), inductor is 3.3uH (4.7uH recommended) and so on…

ImA4Wheelr
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Well, tonight was frustrating. At the end of yesterday, the light only had high mode and occasionally a firefly mode.  I figured I may have partially fried the modes chip. I think the undersized inductor and diode may also be interfering with mode changes.  They are probably also limiting current with 2S Ni-mh cells.  Highlights:

  • Swapped the stock caps with known good 1uF and 10uF caps.  Didn't improve mode changes.  
  • I swapped the resistor for a R100.  Current with 1S AA was still 310, 470mA with 2S cells.  Should have been able to hit 750mA.  Modes stayed the same.
  • Swapped in a Nichia 119H while putting the light back together.
  • Checked tail cap current of the assembled light and only got 1.3amps of current on high (Long stock DMM leads probably really reduce current.  Funny thing, the modes returned including strobe.
  • Pulled out another light that had not yet been used or changed.  It only had one mode for whatever reason.  Inspected the driver and noted no visible issues.  Swapped the caps and still only had one mode.

I plan on still playing with the driver.  Like you alluded to ericandor, the inductor and diode are under rated for this modes chip.  I'd like to upgrade them and see what happens. 

Correction to diode markings that I posted earlier.  It has two marks.  At some angles a large "S4" is visible and it covers almost all of the diode top.  From straight above, there is a small 6 after the large "S" and there is and 82 going side ways on the end of the diode that does not have the polarity lines.

ericandor
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Well, tonight was frustrating. At the end of yesterday, the light only had high mode and occasionally a firefly mode.  I figured I may have partially fried the modes chip.

Absolute Maximum Ratings for Supply Voltage is 6V and there are 1xAA/2xAA flashlights eg. C3 (with extension tube) based on PAM2803/5 working fine, so it is highly unlikely that you have fried PAM with 2xAA (NiMHs or Alkalines).

ImA4Wheelr wrote:
I think the undersized inductor and diode may also be interfering with mode changes.  They are probably also limiting current with 2S Ni-mh cells..

All PAM based driver (all but one Wink ) I have seen use undersized inductor and diode, but modes work fine.
I have just spotted that on PAM2805 EV Board (link) inductor is 2.2uH/>2A, Schottky Diode is 2A/20V and it is stated that it can deliver 750mA of emitter current…

ImA4Wheelr wrote:
  • Swapped in a Nichia 119H while putting the light back together.
  • … Funny thing, the modes returned including strobe.
  • That is strange, maybe there is cold solder joint somewhere, have you already resoldered all the components ? Smile
    Or maybe there was a batch of broken PAMs…

    Have you already tried 1R00 (1 Ohm) for Rs to see if it works fine with low currents ?

    Best wishes

    ImA4Wheelr
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    Sorry, I should have stated that I think heat from repeated soldering and reflows from hot air gun may have damaged (fried) the chip.

    Joints are all good.  Checked them after each reflow or solder.  I think the resistance of the DMM leads used for the tail cap measurements reduced current to the point that the inductor was not getting saturated or something to that effect..  I don't know.  I will keep trying different ideas on the driver.  A bad batch of chips seems like a reasonable possibility.

    I have not tried shorting the voltage sensor pads.  I will try to remember to try that next time I work on this driver.  Shouldn't help the modes, but it would be interesting to see the impact on current.

    We learn a little more each time.  Hopefully, the list of possible issues narrows down after the next session with the driver.  I need to figure out what inductor and diode to order so that I can see if they are the problem.  I know you are not too concerned about their ratings in this application, but maybe one of them has a defect.  I would like to upgrade them 4.7uH and 2A while I am swapping. 

    Thanks again ericandor for your help. 

    ericandor
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    ImA4Wheelr wrote:

    I have not tried shorting the voltage sensor pads.  I will try to remember to try that next time I work on this driver.  Shouldn’t help the modes, but it would be interesting to see the impact on current.

    What do you mean by “shorting the voltage sensor pads”?
    What is the purpose ?

    ImA4Wheelr
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    Ah, I miss read the below question you asked.  I thought you asked it I had tried a 0 ohm resister.  My apologies.  I was reading the monitor from about 5 feet away while getting ready for work.

    Have you already tried 1R00 (1 Ohm) for Rs to see if it works fine with low currents ?

    The answer to that is no I haven't.  Good idea.  I will try that out.

    Separately,  I forgot to report.  The firefly mode I reported was actually more of a moon mode.  Also, later in the night it reliably cycled from High to Moonlight.  Maybe because the battery voltage had  dropped.  It was actually a very nice Moonlight level.  Perfect for night adjusted eyes indoors.

    Separately, the Nichia 119H cut lumen output in about half from the stock XP-E emitter.

    Pregulla
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    Received a purple one from AliExpress today. Looks good overall. Comes with a nice plastic case, not too fancy, but much better than the usual cardboard box. The LED is off center on mine, I didn't have success in fixing it. Makes the beam quite ringy, even the hotspot. 

    The mode-changing isn't perfect - it sometimes stays on the same mode, my sample keeps skipping strobe most of the time (I'm rather happy about it Smile ). I was unable to detect PWM on low mode, not by camera, not by shining on PC fan. It's either current regulated or the PWM is very fast, must be much faster than Convoy's.

    The head o-ring was very "fat" making it almost impossible to change modes with one hand. After few times of opening and closing the flashlight the o-ring would stuck between the head and the body and make it impossible to close the flashlight. I have replaced it with one from the tailcap and it now works much easier and it can be operated with single hand. But there is also much more play it the threads

    ImA4Wheelr
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    Mine didn't come with a case.   Maybe because I bought a set of 3.

    Even centered, there are some slight artifacts in the beam you can see on a flat wall.  Replacing the XP-E with a Nichia 119 made the beam real nice and smooth.  I think XP-G would be perfect for this host.  Need to find a good AA driver.  The 5 mode one at FT is out of stock.

    Pregulla
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    I have put a piece of iPhone matte screen protector on the lens and the beam now perfectly smooth (with the protector – on the left, compared to original beam – on the right)

    BTW the color isn’t that blue, it’s just cold white.

    Edit: Added the picture of the case:

    ImA4Wheelr
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    Cool mod and cases Pregulla.  I hope I get cases on my second order as these will be gift lights.

    ericandor
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    ImA4Wheelr wrote:

    Have you already tried 1R00 (1 Ohm) for Rs to see if it works fine with low currents ?

    The answer to that is no I haven’t.  Good idea.  I will try that out.

    So what was the result ? Smile
    Were you able to make it single mode by removing BLK capacitor?

    ImA4Wheelr
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    Haven't had a chance to return to this driver.  Thanks for checking.  I will report back when I do.

    So far, since Post 53 above, the one that I put the Nichia 119H emitter in is cycling between High and Moonlight mode very reliably.  I like the modes so much, I will not be modding the light any further.  I've been EDC'ing it since I put it together and I'm really digging it.  I would like to know why it's has a Moonlight (instead of a Medium and Strobe) and why it is reliably changing modes now, but I know better than to look a gift horse in the mouth.

    Hopefully, experimenting with my other Jexree Mini drivers will answer some questions.

    ericandor
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    I have just received my two Jexree Mini. Both of them suffer mode switching issue. Most of the time mode is H, sometimes M, very rarely STROBE.

    I have observed that mode switching works well when head is tight, tail cap is removed and negative battery terminal is shorted manually to the body.

    That leads me to conclusion that most likely the problem is in bad electrical contact between head and body (fluctuating/unstable Vin while switching ON and/or OFF) causing PAM2805 start-up problems (and fallback to default mode H, because eg. Cblk is being discharged before PAM start-ups).

    Any thoughts on that ?

    Best wishes!

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