MT-G2 COURUI Anyone? Another O-L mod. PHOTO HEAVY - BEAM SHOTS ARE UP! 02-06-14

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Old-Lumens
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MT-G2 COURUI Anyone? Another O-L mod. PHOTO HEAVY - BEAM SHOTS ARE UP! 02-06-14

02-01-2014

Hello,

What do you get with a COURUI XM-L2 light, an MT-G2 led, a DrJones master w/two slave drivers....       AND

cou1a

and Six 18350 Efest V2 cells? (I know there's only 4, the other two are shipping to me as we speak).....    AND

cou1b

and a crazy Old Fart?Tongue Out

 

 

 

 

You get a torn down mess, is what you get...

cou1c

Add some copper and it's off the the O-L work shop.Wink

I will be cutting out the center of the threaded Aluminum led shelf and inserting Copper, along with some more Copper under that, so it fits tight in the section of the light that holds it. Just some insurance for the 9+ amps going to the MT-G2 led.       Can I get 9+ amps out of 6x18350 2S/3P? Don't know,Undecided but I'm going to try...Laughing

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

02-01-2014 - Evening

c1a

So I split some Copper couplings and flattened them. I heat them with a torch, till they turn black when cool and that makes them soft. Flattening is done with a hammer and a block of wood, on the garage floor. I also heated a couple Copper discs, since I will be using at least one of them.

 

 

 

c1b

Now, I said that I wanted to make the center of the led shelf Copper. I drilled it out with a 1/2" bit first.

 

c1c

Then I switched to an end mill bit and wallowed it out some more.

 

c1d

When the ID is closer, I switched to a Dremel #115 bit.

 

c1e

Finally, I went with a Dremel Sanding drum, to get the exact dimension I needed.

 

c1f

Now, the 5/8" disc fits in tight. Why 5/8"? Why not 7/8"? Well, that is what I had.

 

 

 

c1f

I also want to put a Copper disc on the bottom of that led shelf, so I am cutting around a disc that was close in size, to get it the diameter I need.

 

c1g

After cutting it out, I used a Dremel to smooth out some of the high spots.

 

c1h

Then I finished with rough sandpaper. I am not too concerned about perfect here, because it will be soldered to the center Copper plug and the whole thing needs to screw in/out, so it has to be shy of the thread ID in the light.

 

c1i

Close enough. It falls in.

 

c1j

Screw in the original led shelf and tighten it down.

 

 

c1k

Now, I need three of the 5/8" discs, so the height is right, so I gob some solder on two of them.

 

c1l

Then I heat and use something, anything, to press down, while it cools, squeezing out the excess solder.

 

c1m

Add a little solder in between and pop the center discs in place.

 

c1n

Use something to press down hard while heating. I also dropped a dab of solder in one of the wire holes, so that I could see when it melted, telling me the center was melted too.

 

 

c1o

Looks good to me. The MT-G2 on Noctigon will not be soldered on. I will use AA, so it can be easily removed.

c1p

 

 

 

 

c2a

Speaking of MT-G2, let's go ahead and open the reflector to fit the led. I just drew a mark on, for a guide and I used my Dremel tool to open up the led hole diameter.

 

c2b

Ouch! That's too big!

c2c

See that crap in there? It was almost the end of that reflector. I washed it out, by just spraying Windex in the reflector, followed by plain water. That worked fine, so I used compressed air cans, to dry it out, Just as it was almost done, I shook the can and some of the propellant came out and smeared the top of the reflector! Blue streak here we come!... I tried the Windex deal again, but this stuff was stuck on, so I soaked my hand with Windex and soaked the reflector with Windex and used my finger tip, ever so gently, to clean the gunk off the reflector. No scratches! I do not recommend it, but I have done this before. If you have the reflector soaked well with Windex, and your hand is soaked, the film keeps your finger from leaving a scratch, but you can only rub once or twice and very softy, otherwise, good bye.

 

c2d

Actually, it isn't too big a hole. I plan on having adjustment room, to get the proper focus and so far, all the MT-G2 leds I have done, need to have the reflector base below the die substrate. At least here, I can get the adjustment I want.

 

c2e

Oh, the MT-G2 is also raised on Copper shims, so I have more room to work with reflector height.

 

 

 

c3a

Let's go back and add some more copper under the led shelf. The ID here is about 34.10mm and I am cutting out Copper to make a stack of them, to go inside.

c3b

 

 

c3c

These are pipe couplings, so they are thick. I have to use Sheet metal cutters and it's difficult, so I am not trying for a perfect circle. I will just cut an Octagon, to remove most of the excess and then solder them together and shape the whole thing at once.

 

c3d

Kinda like this times 6.

 

c3e

I am reheating them again, before flattening them out again. Working Copper makes it brittle, so after all the cutting I heat them again to soften them.

 

c3g

I just use a big hammer and a piece of wood on concrete, to flatten them.

 

 

c3f

OK, they are soldered and I have hit the edge with the Dremel tool by hand. Now it's time to start up the drill press again.

 

c3h

I use a block of wood, to keep the piece from flying out the back and I use the #115 bit to shape the circle. A little at a time.

 

c3i

I wanted this one to be really close, so I thought I would use calipers and do some measuring. This is in mm, so you can see I am still about .10mm out of round. 

 

c3j

I can mark out the high spots, so I know where to work more material off.

 

 

c3l

Since I am getting close, I have switched to inches, so I can measure in thousandths.

 

c3m

I have also gone to the drum sander, because I don't have too far to go and I don't want to overshoot.

 

c3o

It's looking better. Here you can see I am down to about .005 out of round and the final sanding for fit, took me down to .003" out of round. Not bad without a lathe.

 

c3p

The edge looks pretty good for a drum sander.

 

c3q

Nice and snug. I am very satisfied with the result. There is no way I can make a huge Copper heat sink, so I just need to make sure the Copper gets out to the Aluminum fast as possible.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

02-02-2014 - Evening

cu2a

Drivers are wired up. Here the main wires are soldered on the original driver board. I stripped it and am using it as a contact plate.

 

cu2b

The three NANJG drivers are all wired and ready to go. This is a Master/Slave setup. The copper strips are "supposed to" help cool the 7135 chips. I am debating on filling the driver pocket with Fujik or not.

cu2c

 

cu2d

Wired to the led and it all works. I tested with two 18650 Li-ion, on the bench.

 

 

 

cu2e

Another problem I found, is that the original driver plate sits down below the outer lip of the pocket, so the body does not touch the driver outer ring. I made a copper ring to solder to the driver plate. It will be thick enough that the body will screw in and touch it now.

 

cu2f

I cut the outside with scissors and used a file, to finish off the outer edge. I scribed where I wanted the inner edge to be.

 

cu2g

Then I drilled a starter hole and used the dremel tool to cut out the ID. It's ready to go and I will solder it to the driver.

cu2h

 

 

 

Another issue is that the two 18350 cells stuck out too far. I dimpled the negative ends of two of the 18350s I have, so I have to make more space for them. Luckily, there's a lot of space in the back, where the rear contact plate could be raised up, so that's what I did.

cuca

I gained about 4mm doing this and the batteries fit better now.

cucb

I had to re-drill and tap the three holes in the body, to accept longer screws. I used 3mm, because that's what I had.

Then I cut three pieces of brass tubing, to use as spacers and put it all back together.

cucc

 

 

 

 

ecua

As far as the reflector focus goes, the tightest spot was with the reflector base as low as I could get it. It is below the led base. It can't go any lower due to wires, but I am glad I raised the led up, or the spot would be very big and not well defined. Every MT-G2 I have played with, needed the reflector to be lower than the base of the led, to get a tighter spot.

ecub

Since the reflector is down so far, there is only a little gap when the head is screwed down and it's not enough for me to worry about.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Not much left now, except for waiting on the batteries and doing beam shots. The lux meter showed 42500 lux at one meter, with the beam focused. That is no better than any 50mm reflector out there, so the bigger diameter reflector is doing nothing for the MT-G2. It will never be a thrower. No MT-G2 will ever be a thrower, but I bet it will be a great light when I get to do beam shots. I prefer beams with a lot of spill and a big center spot, so it will probably be great for that.

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

02-06-2014 It Lives!

 

cm1a

OK, to correct my previous photo. The back end of the negative plate has the crossover wire on it. It's a little heavier than what was there stock.

 

cm1b

The driver assembly is back in place, with the copper outer ring.

 

cm1c

The reflector is now polished Aluminum... Yep, I scratched another one! Well, it's still pretty good looking after a lot of 2000 grit wet sanding and #0000 steel wool sanding in water, Plus the dremel with a cloth polisher and Mothers.

 

Anyhow, the beam shots are up and I got a reading of  8.5 amps on high, with a 1 meter lux of 62,400.  Not too shabby I think.

 

 

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 02/06/2014 - 02:28
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cb1

The DrJones driver has two main modes. High and med/low Plus ramping. This is the low setting.

 

cb2

This is High

 

 

cb3

Low

 

 

cb4

High

 

 

 

cb5

High

 

cbc1

100% crop of the lighted area

 

 

 

cb6

High

 

cb7

High

 

cbc2

100% crop of the lighted area. Along the bank on the right side is a bright spot. That turned out to be a Coyote.

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Thanks for doing this, I was contemplating this build or rather one similar. Why not 3 18650s in series? Or are you building a triple MTG2?

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Yes, you can definitely get 9A or more out of the 18350s. 8)

 

scottyhazzard wrote:
Thanks for doing this, I was contemplating this build or rather one similar. Why not 3 18650s in series? Or are you building a triple MTG2?

The mod to make the 7135-based drivers work with the MTG2 can only handle a max of 8.4v input. 3S/12.6v would require a totally different driver setup, O-L and others use these and live with the limitations because the UI is nice and the parts are already at hand.

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Awesome!!! I can’t wait to see the finished product!

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Looking forward to this ! * gets my cash ready to buy it after *

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This is gonna be something different. Not for me at all (MT-G2 does not wow me at all) but it will certainly have something rare and sweet none the less.

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I dig it.

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I am adding this one to my "must do" builds.  

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This is going to be ridiculous! Cant wait to see it!

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scottyhazzard wrote:
Thanks for doing this, I was contemplating this build or rather one similar. Why not 3 18650s in series? Or are you building a triple MTG2?
I am using a 6V MT-G2 with NANJG drivers, using the zener mod. I need 2 in series, for the voltage and the 3 sets, (in parallel), of 2 in series, gives me more amperage. 3x18650 in series is just too high a voltage.

EDIT: I coulda just read Post#3 before I made this one.Smile

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Even 8 ounces of copper under an MT-G2 at 6.77A is really not enough. 140º on the outside of the head in 5 minutes. And that’s with the copper exposed directly to air, with fins.

9A takes more, lot’s more, not sure if there’s room for enough copper in that light, but it should be fun to play with in bursts.

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Updated the OP.

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O-L, have you tried Windex (rubbing alcohol works too) on a cotton ball? No scratches. Smile

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Can’t wait to see the finished product. It should be amazing.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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comfychair wrote:

O-L, have you tried Windex (rubbing alcohol works too) on a cotton ball? No scratches. Smile

Every time I have used a Cotton ball, it has scratched the reflector. Maybe next time I should not use the ones you pick right off the Cotton plant and use the processed ones instead.Tongue Out

I stopped using Alcohol many, many years ago, but there are still times when feel like I would like to.Laughing

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I’m clueless, but I sure do appreciate the photos, descriptions, and the time involved in bringing it to the Forum. THANKS!

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I always enjoy looking at your process of making copper heatsinks/slugs/inserts. It is always amazing seeing it go from a few pieces of copper pipe to a glorious chunk of heat devouring paraphernalia.

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Nice, you made my MT-G2 envy that much stronger…

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I sit here after spending a weekend of 40+ degree heat in a lake far away and come back to this. Am I delerious or is OL. What an effort. I’ll have to come back in a couple of days and read this again and make sure that what I just looked at in pictures actually happened.

 

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Nice mod, at 9 amps there will be 60 W of heat, my guess is that is will dissipate fine, with the led on copper just going strong (still waiting for the first well mounted led on copper fail from overheating, in any host), not sure about your hands though after 10 minutes. Well, the batteries are near empty by then, so even your hands will survive.

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I understand the thermal advantages of all that copper, but you have a shim between the emitter and it’s board, and another under the screw-in emitter shelf, raising the emitter towards the reflector. How do you compensate for the added height when you reassemble the light? Was the original emitter on a really thick circuit board?

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Re-post #11 ;EDIT: I coulda just read Post#3 before I made this one.

OL, your post helped. To be honest, Comfychair’s answer probably makes sense to more experienced modders than it did to me until I read you’re post and then re-read his post. So for me the effort was appreciated and helpful from you two. Thanks.

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TexasToasted wrote:
I understand the thermal advantages of all that copper, but you have a shim between the emitter and it's board, and another under the screw-in emitter shelf, raising the emitter towards the reflector. How do you compensate for the added height when you reassemble the light? Was the original emitter on a really thick circuit board?
The original was on a thin board, so there will be issues. What will have to happen, is the head will not be down all the way and I will have to make some type of spacer ring, like a copper ring, so that the gap will not be as noticeable. If I had a lathe, I would just have cut the shelf inside the light lower and threaded it deeper, so that the led would be in original position, but I cannot do that by hand, so it's a just do what I can kind of thing.

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djozz wrote:

Nice mod, at 9 amps there will be 60 W of heat, my guess is that is will dissipate fine, with the led on copper just going strong (still waiting for the first well mounted led on copper fail from overheating, in any host), not sure about your hands though after 10 minutes. Well, the batteries are near empty by then, so even your hands will survive.

I figure what will happen is this.    At first turn on, it will be bright as hell for about 30 seconds. Then the batteries will sag a little and it will get dimmer. After about a minute the whole head will be warm, but by then the 7135 chips will start to back off and loose power, because they will be hot and the light will get dimmer and dimmer quickly. So... all in all, it's a 30 second light for max power and after that, it will just keep getting dimmer, so it will probably never get too hot. Within 3 to 4 minutes, I would expect it to be at about 70% to 60% power on it's own, just from battery sag and overheating 7135 chips.  What I am waiting for is someone to make a dedicated driver especially designed for the MT-G2 and a light/reflector for it too.

I think I will pass away before I ever see that day though.

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Old-Lumens wrote:

djozz wrote:

Nice mod, at 9 amps there will be 60 W of heat, my guess is that is will dissipate fine, with the led on copper just going strong (still waiting for the first well mounted led on copper fail from overheating, in any host), not sure about your hands though after 10 minutes. Well, the batteries are near empty by then, so even your hands will survive.

I figure what will happen is this.    At first turn on, it will be bright as hell for about 30 seconds. Then the batteries will sag a little and it will get dimmer. After about a minute the whole head will be warm, but by then the 7135 chips will start to back off and loose power, because they will be hot and the light will get dimmer and dimmer quickly. So... all in all, it's a 30 second light for max power and after that, it will just keep getting dimmer, so it will probably never get too hot. Within 3 to 4 minutes, I would expect it to be at about 70% to 60% power on it's own, just from battery sag and overheating 7135 chips.  What I am waiting for is someone to make a dedicated driver especially designed for the MT-G2 and a light/reflector for it too.

I think I will pass away before I ever see that day though.

Eat lots of kale and tofu.

 

Then you won't mind passing away so much.

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There's no such thing as a "MTG2 driver", it's just a LED that needs a higher voltage than a single XML. Anything that will run two XMLs in series will also run a MTG2, the driver will never know the difference. There's probably 20 drivers listed in the 'post your MTG2 driver results here' thread that work straight out of the box with no mods required.

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Updated the OP, it's basically done. I am waiting for batteries now.

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Nice work there, Justin! Can’t wait to see your beam shots!

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