Based on the reviews for this light, I am hesitant to try a 14500 in it. I like the light with using a single AA and my dad is telling me to buy more.
Is there any way to tell if it can support a 14500? (Without risk of frying it since I only have one)
Is this the best light in this category and price?
Are there any available shipped from the US?
Can you recommend a decent protected 14500? Preferably in the US?
Thanks, John
Generally the single mode 1xAA lights can handle a 14500 but there’s always a risk. With that said for about $4 buy three of them and then see if they work and then you can try a 14500 in one of them and if it doesn’t burn out then you have a couple backups for spare parts or for general use. If it does burn out then you have a modding host and two other ones to use and swap parts between in case one doesn’t work right.
That’s the thing with Chinese budget lights, if you go bottom of the barrel cheap don’t expect them to work perfectly without at least at the minimum a complete teardown, cleaning, lubing and reassembly and often they need to have thermal compound reapplied and maybe a solder joint redone, or a contact washer between the pill and body or for me even as far as switch dissasembly cleaning and modification.
If you’re looking for the best light in this category that will likely work right out of the box, then you want the Sipik SK68 with an XP-G2 led not that old XR-E Q5. You’ll likely get better tint with a second generation Cree die than an older one.
Sipik sk68 clone, loads of threads about them here.
Usually handle 14500 cells ok.
A good quality Battery from RMM store
Thanks CRX!
I thought that was the case but I didn’t want to label it an sk68 in case it was not… Thank you for the info. I will browse some of the other threads on here.
John
I have one from the same listing, works fine on 14500. It may or may not work with yours, but I have not found a single sk68 clone that only runs on AA for whatever that’s worth.
Thanks. I saw that but I also saw reviews saying they can’t take 14500. You know how those Amazon reviews and product switching can be… I should have been more clear on that in my first post.
Thanks.
Batteries ordered. Glad to find a US supplier!
Totally OT -
I almost ordered a Convoy S3 clone to DIY but that would be my first attempt entirely. Am I likely to get it right and be happy with the finished product? I can solder…
Not sure of what parts I actually need or get to chose from. I have the parts from my broken “Unbranded 18650 XM-L U2”: Review: Unbranded 18650 XM-L U2 Flood to Throw Flashlight / Headlamp Combo. I think i burned up the emitter so it would really just be the ‘clicker’.
I have several Sipik 68s and clones like the one the original poster linked.
They all handle 14500 ok.
HOWEVER… after putting a 14500 inside, they seem to permanently convert themselves to ONLY running on 14500. They no longer even light up if a 1.5v AA is put inside.
Thanks for the reply.
Searching for “Sipik 68 aa vs 14500” doesn’t yield any fruitful results…
Do you tend to keep some that are AA capable and some that are 14500 only? Am I better off to find a new home for the 14500s I ordered?
That’s actually a good point, one I have only tested once.
My Sipik Sk68 from Fasttech does work with AA after running it on 14500’s.
The other generic sk68 clones I just use 14500’s in, didn’t bother with AA because of the drastically reduced output.
Anyway, they’re so inexpensive I would keep some that only use alkaline/NiMH and some that only use 14500 if interested in using AA.
I thought I should add that I ordered the battery late on Wednesday and received it in the mail on Saturday. So nice to get things quickly!
Is there already a thread to find US based sellers or do I need to start one? My searches haven’t found recent info.
I have bought no less than 18 of those (they are GREAT as gifts)
Yes it can hold a 14500, but it runs VERY warm, I highly recommend disassembly, putting a notch in the pill, applying a small bit of NOALOX to the threads to help with heat wicking from pill to body, I will even go so far as to gently pull the plastic ring holding in the emitter and put a small bit of artic silver heat sink compound under the base on the little shelf it sits on, it's a hollow pill so it doesn't wick heat as well as if it had a solid bottom to sit on (to use thermal cement or epoxy to bond it down to help heat transfer)
Here is a shot of the driver, both a boost ckt for 1.5vdc, and a linear regulator for 3.7vdc
I know they aren't the best pictures but hope it helps