Build Using New Host from Mountain Electronics

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mhemling33
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Build Using New Host from Mountain Electronics

Here is some pictures and info about Mountain Electronics new 2×26650 host paired with the 32mm driver pushing a MT-G2!

Overall impression:
I am really impressed with everything. The quality of the host was even better then expected. The pill is HUGE!!!!! The reflector fits an MT-G2 perfectly the pills beefiness helps with heat while pushing it.

Would I recommend it……. 100% yes

The 32mm Dry Driver fits the pill perfectly. I went ahead and bridged the resistors with solder wick to see what it could do.

These are the tailcap reading I got

With 2×26650 King Kongs button tops
Low (0.18A), Medium (1.35A), High (3.40A), Turbo (5.00A)

With 2x Samsung 20A 18650’s
Low (0.19A), Medium (1.50A), High (3.65A), Turbo (5.50A)

This host works with the 26650 battery extension tube from CN Quality goods. I initially tried running an MT-G2 off of 3 Cells with the resistors bridged….. DON’T DO IT. It was pulling well over 7A but it only lasted about 30 seconds before half the MT-G2 died. But for those who want a 3 × 26650 host you can purchase the extension tube and put it on one of these hosts. You can see the host with the extension tube in the first picture.

Now for the pictures







Compared to a C8 Pill









Weather is crappy right now on the east coast so no night shots yet but I will post them when I get a chance to take some good ones.

RMM
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One thing I was thinking of, I wonder how much current you're losing through the tailcap and driver springs?  Sometimes the losses can be significant at 5A+.  I would definitely copper braid or silicone wire them to see if you get a noticeable improvement. 

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mhemling33
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RMM wrote:

One thing I was thinking of, I wonder how much current you’re losing through the tailcap and driver springs?  Sometimes the losses can be significant at 5A+.  I would definitely copper braid or silicone wire them to see if you get a noticeable improvement. 

Will do! I am going to test current at the emitter then braid the battery contact spring and the tailswitch and see what happens Wink

moderator007
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Did I hear you correctly, you killed half a MT-G2. Shocked

I have electrified mine with over 10 amps and it didn’t seem to mind at all, It does put out some massive heat at that current though.

RMM
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I have also run 11A+, but these buck drivers seem to be able to give a very large spike when pushed too hard in buck mode.  With 2S cells I think it's just about impossible to kill an MT-G2, but with 3S not bucking correctly or giving a large current spike apparently it is.  

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unknown00101
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Wow that pill is ridiculous.

mhemling33
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moderator007 wrote:
Did I hear you correctly, you killed half a MT-G2. Shocked

I have electrified mine with over 10 amps and it didn’t seem to mind at all, It does put out some massive heat at that current though.

Yeah i literally killed half of it :_(

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice build and report.  Thanks for taking one for the team on the 3S/Dry/MT-G2.  Could you check to see if there is any kind of gap between the emitter and the thermal pad?  A real close macro shot may help.  Also, it you have the emitter base (Assuming Notigon) well connected to the pill when the failure occurred?

Just wondering it was the Dry allowing too much voltage or a thermal connection issue.

moderator007
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Measuring 7 amps of current draw from 3 cells, would probably mean that the led was pushing maybe over 15-16 amps across that MT-G2. Shocked
I was just beginning to think the MT-G2 was invincible. Now this, I was really expecting someone to kill one by hooking it straight to a fresh car battery or plugging it directly in the wall receptacle. Shocked :bigsmile:

mhemling33
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Nice build and report.  Thanks for taking one for the team on the 3S/Dry/MT-G2.  Could you check to see if there is any kind of gap between the emitter and the thermal pad?  A real close macro shot may help.  Also, it you have the emitter base (Assuming Notigon) well connected to the pill when the failure occurred?

Just wondering it was the Dry allowing too much voltage or a thermal connection issue.

It does look like there is a gap and not enough solder, could this of did it. The LED is a little messy because after I killed half of it, it went in the dead diode pile.

This is the side the damage is on…..

This is the opposite side that is still working…..

MRsDNF
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Nice effort. Thanks for taking one for the team. Hows the beam? I have a couple of those reflectors I will one day build into a MTG-2 light and was hoping it would tighten the hot spot up compared to other reflectors that size.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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mhemling33
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MRsDNF wrote:
Nice effort. Thanks for taking one for the team. Hows the beam? I have a couple of those reflectors I will one day build into a MTG-2 light and was hoping it would tighten the hot spot up compared to other reflectors that size.

I am happy with it beam wise. It isn’t as tight as the Torchlite 2×26650 which is now discontinued. The torchlight reflector is deeper compared to it. If there was a way to have the Torchlite reflector with this new host it would be perfect. IMHO the much beefier pill and the ability to perfectly fit the 32mm dry driver makes it a better host then the Torchlite. We are getting some crappy freezing rain weather right now so it’s not a good time for night shots lol I’ll post some tomorrow night most likely.

mhemling33
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I tried to get some pictures but this is all I could do tonight

New 2×26650 Host @ 5A

These next two pictures are using the same setting and you can see the difference between the reflectors

This is the Torchlight MT-G2 @4A

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I have Torchlite host, still deciding on what to put in there.. do you think the new DRY driver fit in Torchlite host?

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mhemling33
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DayLighter wrote:
I have Torchlite host, still deciding on what to put in there.. do you think the new DRY driver fit in Torchlite host?

No the dry driver won’t it is a weird size pill, it is meant for a 23mm driver or something weird like that. I had to solder a 20mm contact board to the inside or the driver retainer ring and use a qlite with the mt-g2 mod. If you ever want to sell it let me know Wink I think that host would make a thrower with a de-domed XM-L2 at 5A+ but there is no sense in ripping apart the MT-G2 since it is running just fine.


MRsDNF
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Thanks for the pictures. The spill is definitely larger on this light but the hotspot appears about the same size or is the picture deceiving?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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The bottom of the reflector looks pretty wide. Did you have any trouble with clearance between the bottom of the reflector and the wiring soldered to the LED board?

mhemling33
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MRsDNF wrote:
Thanks for the pictures. The spill is definitely larger on this light but the hotspot appears about the same size or is the picture deceiving?

Hotspot is definitely bigger it was hard to get a picture of last night but you can see from the picture the flood is definitely different.

TexasToasted wrote:
The bottom of the reflector looks pretty wide. Did you have any trouble with clearance between the bottom of the reflector and the wiring soldered to the LED board?

I had absolutely no issues with the reflector hitting, I did make sure that my solder joints weren’t huge though. If anything it hits the screws used to hold the board down. I also use one of the 3m gaskets from mountain instead of the paper sticker that is supplied.

RMM
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I was also concerned about the solder joints hitting.  If you get them pretty flat it isn't an issue (but should be insulated) because the reflector does seem to hit the mounting screws before hitting the joints.  As another benefit it seems to help protect the dome of the MT-G2 which can be easily damaged by a reflector tightening onto it (again, don't ask me how I know Tongue Out )

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DayLighter
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sorry.. I was trying to buy more of this host.. and regret I didn’t buy more Sad
but the new 26650 host from Mountain electronic looks similar enough Smile

it’s a beautiful host and plenty heat sink, the only issue I have with this light is the pill are for LED is too deep.
the LED couldn’t get close enough to the reflector, heck the reflector didn’t even touch the MCPB. I was dry testing it by putting the noctigon MCPB on top of 2 copper pennies to make it a perfect fit.
how did you put yours?

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ImA4Wheelr
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Hmmm, there is an indication of some type of void in there.  Question is, how large is it.  We may be be seeing the only solder there is or there may be solder under most of the emitter.

That's one thing I don't like about the Notigons.  The copper board is not pressed up like in the Sinkpads.  I quite buying MT-G2's premounted on boards for that reason.  I rather reflow myself and get it right.

The void may have cause the failure or it may have only contributed to it.  At that current, any gap probably is fatal.  I guess the Dry would need to be tested for output using 3S cells and the voltage sensor bank shorted to know if excess voltage is delivered to the emitter.  I don't currently have the knowledge or equipment to do that.

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The old Noctigon boards like that do not have the thermal pads up. Get some new ones like the 3XP and you will see all are up (got a lot of them to know). Ask Hank for the newer batch that have the thermal pad at the same level.

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it does look like a gap under the led, who knows how much of it is actually soldered to the mcpcb, and how much of it is hanging in the air.

i used sinkpad2 for mine mtg2, it has heatpad and contacts on the same hight, no gaps.

RMM
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Been testing my Noctigon mounted MT-G2 at 10A and 11A for a few minutes at a time.  I know that DBCStm has been also.  I don't think that the issue here was the amount of solder under the emitter but that it simply received too much current.  

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ImA4Wheelr
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RMM wrote:

Been testing my Noctigon mounted MT-G2 at 10A and 11A for a few minutes at a time.  I know that DBCStm has been also.  I don't think that the issue here was the amount of solder under the emitter but that it simply received too much current. 

Moderator007 estimates possibly over 15-16 amps across that MT-G2.  You've been testing at that current with voids between the thermal pad and emitter using Dry and then known safe driver?

RMM
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I have no cells that can deliver 14-15A to an emitter.  Either way, hooking up 3S cells to a 2S LED will probably burn it out regardless of how good the thermal joints are.  We are talking about a near instantaneous type of damage.  

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

ImA4Wheelr
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Possible and could be the cause, but I think there are too many unknowns to make any real conclusions here.

EDIT:

I really would like to get to the bottom of this because I have been thinking about driving an MT-G2 with a Dry and 3S cells.  It seems it has to be excess voltage or thermal failure.  Current seems unlikely.  Please check out my logic and correct and/or build on a realistic theory.

# of Cells3
Likely voltage ater sag (guess)4.05
Total Voltage12.15
Tail Current7
Watts Produced85.05
  
Driver Efficiency (guess)0.8
  
Watts to emitter68.04
  
Emitter Vf at 16 amps8
Amps to emitter10.63125

Obviously, last 2 lines don't match.  That is the point.  Comfychair showed here that it seems to buck pretty good.  That seems to increase the likelihood of this being a thermal failure.  Has anyone else tried to push an MT-G2 hard with the new Dry driver?

mhemling33
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Has anyone else tried to push an MT-G2 hard with the new Dry driver?

What if I reflow the half dead one, then try to monitor the current and voltage w/ 3 cells. If it is a random spike i don’t think my DMM will pick it up though.

I would hate to waste a new good one again.

I finally took some night shots. The shed is about 40 yards away, the woods in the back are around 100 yards. I am aimed at the shed.

The camera and settings are:
Cannon Powershot S110
Manual Mode – Shutter Speed = 1”, Aperture Value = 8.0, ISO = 800

Low

Medium

High

Turbo

mhemling33
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What is a good budget holster for this $10-$20.

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I built a Convoy L2 with the old 20mm Dry driver and MTG. I added an extension tube and momentarily tried 3 × 26650 and got a 13A reading. It was just a quick on and off, I didn’t want to harm the MTG.

Ouchyfoot
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I need to know the diameter of the reflector in this host.

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