Any special tips or best advice on doing the soldering of these little tiny emitters onto a Sinkpad?
Those contacts are only separated by a hair. I’ve seen OldLumens’ video of doing it by heating the Sinkpad from below with a soldering iron, and I’ve seen someone’s of slowly heating it in a frying pan on a stove.

I’ve got an infrared thermometer, so I can manage temperature control — in theory.
But I wish I had a hot air gun I could set to the right temperature and heat from the top instead of underneath. I think.

A propane torch turned very low worked for me.

Hm. Well, as I said above I’d dropped in that XR-E amber from Fasttech, just straight swap for the one that came in the light.
Stock driver.

(Didn’t glue it in in, just pressed it down snug with the plastic washer, same as the original emitter, silly of me, I should at least have tried Fujik goop)

Last night — for the first time — I ran it for about 15 minutes straight on high level, ceiling bounce.
It got pretty warm, but no noticeable problem with it.

Today it started to flicker (with a NiZN 1.8v cell); switched to a 1.2v Eneloop and the flicker went away, but then the brightness dropped drastically, went back to bright, went dim again, cycled a few more times and it’s dead.

So, I guess I overdrove/overheated it. Should’ve

This is a hollow pill light, the emitter just sits on a rim inside; I’m puzzling how to improve on that.

hank wrote:

Hm. Well, as I said above I’d dropped in that XR-E amber from Fasttech, just straight swap for the one that came in the light.
Stock driver.

(Didn’t glue it in in, just pressed it down snug with the plastic washer, same as the original emitter, silly of me, I should at least have tried Fujik goop)

Last night — for the first time — I ran it for about 15 minutes straight on high level, ceiling bounce.
It got pretty warm, but no noticeable problem with it.

Today it started to flicker (with a NiZN 1.8v cell); switched to a 1.2v Eneloop and the flicker went away, but then the brightness dropped drastically, went back to bright, went dim again, cycled a few more times and it’s dead.

So, I guess I overdrove/overheated it. Should’ve

This is a hollow pill light, the emitter just sits on a rim inside; I’m puzzling how to improve on that.

Seems more likely to me that it’s either a physical problem or a bad driver than the emitter dying from heat in this config.

@wight not amber but red xpe2 they sell on noctigon

penumbra wrote:

@wight not amber but red xpe2 they sell on noctigon

Belated answer, one I had trouble with had melted its plastic battery carrier so the wires disconnected. Overdriven, uh, yeah.

Belatedly,

Oooh:

Quote:

We produce in stripes which means that you can order a stripe of 10pcs where 10 Rebel are placed on 10 PCBs next to each other (see pictury gallery). By setting a simple soldering bridge you can give series connection to them and have easily developed your own 10cm long and 10mm wide Rebel PCB useable with most common mouting profiles.

I know I’m a few years late, but what’s the maximum safe continuous current for the XP-E red? I have 6x AMC Biscotti driver but I think I might have to remove an AMC chip or two…

KevinZA1988 wrote:

I know I’m a few years late, but what’s the maximum safe continuous current for the XP-E red? I have 6x AMC Biscotti driver but I think I might have to remove an AMC chip or two…