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rhd
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
rhd wrote:
Are there any drivers in the community based on the AX2003 ?
Datasheets? Schematics?

Yep, available online. I can’t seem to copy /paste a clean link from my phone, but if you Google it, the first result is a datasheet. It’s about the simplest buck IC you could ask for.

Rufusbduck
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Anyone up for making a parallel 4 x AA carrier?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Mattaus
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Anyone up for making a parallel 4 x AA carrier?

The easiest of easy.

I'm working on a series triple AA carrier for djozz at the moment. If I get that done tonight I'll do a parallel carrier as well. Any specifics? BATT+ and BATT- available at the front? Or BATT+ front, BATT- rear? Overall diameter requirement or just as small as possible with 4xAA cells?

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Anyone up for making a parallel 4 x AA carrier?

“re-inventing the wheel”?

or were you being serious? Silly

Microa
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This is one of my AX2003 board in EAGLE. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hzugma16prk7l1k/22MM_2.5A_104R.zip You may download and have a trial.
Please note that the bottom layer is the ground which work as a thermal pad.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Anyone up for making a parallel 4 x AA carrier?

If you want batt+ front, batt- rear, it seems like a waste to pay oshppark for that. Pretty much just a couple sheet metal or copper plates with springs.
Mattaus wrote:
I’m working on a series triple AA carrier for djozz at the moment.

What will be used as the supports / pillars. I’ve been thinking about what could be used that should be commonly available anywhere.


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Rufusbduck
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Helios- wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
Anyone up for making a parallel 4 x AA carrier?

If you want batt+ front, batt- rear, it seems like a waste to pay oshppark for that. Pretty much just a couple sheet metal or copper plates with springs.

Seems like a good way to short out 4 cells.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

rhd
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Helios- wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
Anyone up for making a parallel 4 x AA carrier?
If you want batt+ front, batt- rear, it seems like a waste to pay oshppark for that. Pretty much just a couple sheet metal or copper plates with springs.

You do have to be intelligent about decisions re: surface area. This may be a year old now, but it’s still roughly accurate:
http://www.meatandnetworking.com/resources/cheap-prototype-pcb-comparison/

An easier rule of thumb (at least the one I follow) is that as soon as your 3x boards from Oshpark hit just above the $10 mark, you’re better moving over to iTead, where that $10 (a bit more because they charge shipping) will get you 10x copies instead.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Seems like a good way to short out 4 cells.

With parallel? Isolation is easy, no?
Maybe I’m cheap? PCBs certainly looks better & more finished. $9 for 4xAA top plates +$9 for bottoms. Pushed mine down to $7.45 if its squared off a bit.


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Rufusbduck
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Sorry if that came across as abrupt but your description of two metal plates was a bit lacking in detail. Sure I could make something and often do but other times it’s nice to have it already done. There are several more options I’d like to see as well and I like your use of solid wire to beef up the vias.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

rhd
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Microa wrote:
This is one of my AX2003 board in EAGLE. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hzugma16prk7l1k/22MM_2.5A_104R.zip You may download and have a trial. Please note that the bottom layer is the ground which work as a thermal pad.

That looks great to me.

I wish there was an IC as user-friendly as the AX2003 that could buck the higher current needed for an MT-G2.

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Rendering?

comfychair
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I could really use some generic SMD switch PCBs. Isn't the lead spacing pretty close on all the various common switches, or close enough that the pads could be enlarged to make it compatible with nearly everything? I'm only familiar with what fits into SRKs and their clones, are there other lights that use larger PCBs, such that it might make sense to do a larger universal board with silkscreened cut lines for the various ODs?

With the SRK drivers with piggybacked 105Cs I always add two pins on the back of the switch board, and then put connectors on the ends of the wires because it's too much trouble (or impossible) to unsolder the wires from the driver.

What are these connectors called? They're used for all kinds of things but I have no idea what their proper name is...

http://75.65.123.78/Dsc07358.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/driverhacks/Dsc07379.jpg

WarHawk-AVG
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The bottom ones look like header pins
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/116

Female headers (just solder wire on for quick connect)
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/743

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Rufusbduck, sorry I was rude with “seems like a waste to pay oshppark for that.” Beer

What diameter SMD button PCBs does the SRK and clones use? Usual button?


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Helios- wrote:
What will be used as the supports / pillars. I've been thinking about what could be used that should be commonly available anywhere.

It has 3mm holes (actually via's) so that I can solder 3mm brass rods in, but other materials can be used if you use screws (even M3 threaded rod can be used with nuts), the rods are not part of the electrical path (apart from that they are connected to batt -  )

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Helios

Quote:
What will be used as the supports / pillars. I’ve been thinking about what could be used that should be commonly available anywhere.
. I use brass tube for a ton of things as it can be tapped inside or threaded outside and there are nylon bushings available at the hardware store to use as insulated spacers. Also threaded nylon screws can be had in 6-32and 8-32. The nylon is nice in that you can solder near it without it melting or deforming which is why I use it for the sleeve over 7135 stacks.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Made a tact switch (button) board. Standard 2.54 mm header pins fit on the back. Semi-universal as far as 4 pin buttons go. 4×4 – 6×6mm smd and through hole 6×6 should fit.

12mm dia with 10mm silkscreen guide. Any particular diameters wanted? So that cutting isn’t needed much.

Also did an smd only version with tiny tented (soldermask covered) vias. Set it in with RTV silicone around the edge and it should block water from entering the driver cavity.

comfychair wrote:
What are these connectors called? They’re used for all kinds of things but I have no idea what their proper name is…

2.54mm header pins. 2.54mm (0.1”) is standard pitch / pin spacing. There are also 2.54mm machine header pins (round pins) which usually cost a bit more. Normal (square) pins won’t fit into female machine pin connectors.
You can also get XH2.54 connectors. Same pins but shrouded & keyed to prevent plugging in backwards.


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comfychair
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Cool! Beer So that's 12mm square, and 10mm at the ring?

edit: Erm, I just now measured the SRK switch hole, the ID is .480"/12.2mm... so either 12mm round or add a second cut line outboard at 12mm. I can't cut/file (or even draw!) a circle freehand that ends up even marginally round to save my life.

edit2: The nicer/genuine SRKs have a 1mm o-ring behind the switch PCB in the bottom of the bore, the cheap ones don't even try.

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Its 12mm round. I’ll do 12.2mm.

edit
12.2mm


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WarHawk-AVG
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Ordered 3× 15DD, 6×17DD, and 3×20DD

OH YEAH!

I might have to order some more FET’s…

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http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07464.jpg

:bigsmile:

rhd
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comfychair wrote:

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07464.jpg

:bigsmile:


Which board is this?
Mattaus
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Now that looks awesome. Any feedback on the layout Comfy?

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rhd wrote:
comfychair wrote:

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07464.jpg

:bigsmile:


Which board is this?

It’s the SRK FET 46 mm driver listed in the OP. It looks real sweet you guys.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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comfychair wrote:

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07464.jpg

:bigsmile:

AWESOME!!!

I see you cut a notch for “easy removal” Silly

Beautiful…just got mine in today and incredible soldering comfy! AWESOME, pure awesome!

Oh yeah and comfy…any problems with the 1.6mm thickness vs the 2mm of stock drivers?
Can’t wait for a “review” and stats of the board

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That’s slicker than dear guts on a door knob. Do you guys think it will fit into an M6 as well?

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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scottyhazzard wrote:
That’s slicker than dear guts on a door knob. Do you guys think it will fit into an M6 as well?
What is the diameter of the driver?
Mattaus
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46mm

I'm an Idiot lol. SureFire M6?

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It would be real handy if the first post included links to the posts here at BLF pertaining to each individual project.

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