Oshpark Projects

1808 posts / 0 new
Last post
Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 55 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 9264
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

I have no idea on this, I only discovered that it existed yesterday. I am quite a bit out of the loop around here due to very limited internet time recently.

I think TK said something in the TA driver thread about having a version that should work with those drivers.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14234
Location: LI NY

TheOnlyDocc wrote:
I want to ask if someone has tested if ToyKeepers Crescendo FW (Ramping for clickys and if i understand it right it is a Narsil mod FW) is working with the 17mm TA driver? I love the ramping in Narsil so to get the option for a clicky paired with this nice driver would be sweet. I would test it myself but my oshpark boards are still on its way and i still have trouble to find a source for the SIR800DP or the SIR404DP FET here in Germany.

The little bit I understand about it is it's not based on Narsil, it uses a power switch (clicky) to do ramping, and does not have e-switch support yet. It's main goal is to have ramping on a clicky switch light, and fits in a ATtiny25.

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

Im sure this has been discussed before but…

I had problems with SRK drivers based on 7135’s. It works only lower modes and full. Depending on input voltage, it will just turn off when trying to use mid to almost high modes (like 100-254). I found that if i move that C1 to before D1 it works much better. And i understood that it should be like that because otherwise MCU could get voltage spikes and that’s the reason for these higher modes not to work.

Now i saw that DEL’s latest 7135 driver has resistor before MCU Vin, so this is the correct way to fix this issue? Maybe with this way i could make these SRK 7135’s drivers to work correctly?

SRK driver i mean is this:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vni3pdfB

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14234
Location: LI NY

SJT wrote:
Im sure this has been discussed before but... I had problems with SRK drivers based on 7135's. It works only lower modes and full. Depending on input voltage, it will just turn off when trying to use mid to almost high modes (like 100-254). I found that if i move that C1 to before D1 it works much better. And i understood that it should be like that because otherwise MCU could get voltage spikes and that's the reason for these higher modes not to work. Now i saw that DEL's latest 7135 driver has resistor before MCU Vin, so this is the correct way to fix this issue? Maybe with this way i could make these SRK 7135's drivers to work correctly? SRK driver i mean is this: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vni3pdfB   

What MCU are you using? For the 25/45/85, they can be unstable on the old-style OSHPark you linked. This is why all our new board designs have the extra resistors: R3, R4, and R5 (R5 sometimes is R6). Out of those, the most important one is the R5/R6 4.7 ohm that must precede the D1 diode. I've modded some standard 13A drivers by cut/jumper, and tombstone in a 4.7 ohm resistor.

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

Im using Attiny13A with these.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14234
Location: LI NY

Hhmm, I dunno then. Sounds like it's PWM related. Have you tried an alternate firmware? Which firmware are you using? Might be something like a bad 7135 or solder joint, but if it happens on multiple boards, probably not. Could be issues maybe with FAST mode PWM's, or just the higher clock rates of PWM. This board uses a lot of 7135's, so many borderline spike/noise issues are amplified to a point of a problem. That typical D1/C1/R1/R2 circuit design barely gets by with 13A's. In fact I believe the spikes are out of spec with the 13A, just that the 13A tolerates them better than the 25/45/85's.

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

I think i have tried only this STAR_Momentary firmware:
http://jcapsolutions.github.io/blf-firmware/

7135’s have been those from Fasttech 100pcs packs, so far these “Raptor Claws”.

I have tried both FAST and PHASE PWM, made no difference. Clock rate i have not touched, maybe need to try that too.

Also i’m not 100% sure if it behaves like this with batteries, i don’t remember whether i tried or not. I test these with lab power (Manson HCS-3302) before putting in host. I did read for a long time ago about this C1 misplacing and i just moved it and it seems to work. But now that i saw this DEL’s way to do this, i started to think if i’m doing something wrong.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14234
Location: LI NY

Hhmm. Not much choice out there for pure 7135 SRK drivers though. HQ, TA, and DEL all have good SRK designs, but think all use a FET.

HQ's boards here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47798

 

 

DEL
DEL's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 06/28/2015 - 08:35
Posts: 559
Location: Canada

For the SRK driver:

+1 what Tom said about the small resistor. Replace D1 with a series combination of a 2 to 10 ohm resistor and the original D1, then you should be good to go.

I do have a 16× 7135 driver board on OSH, shared and ordered, but it only shipped yesterday. It should be good though.

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

Ok, thank you very much for confirmation, i’ll try that next time.

For FET driver, isn’t it “direct drive” with PWM value of 255? I think that could be only option for ~3-4pcs of XML2 in SRK, for more leds that will make so much current for such small host and with modern batteries that could give so much current still keeping voltage high. With these 7135’s i can control current much easier. Or am i missing something here? Smile

RMM
RMM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 07/23/2013 - 13:47
Posts: 4006
Location: USA

Strange you're having issues with that driver.  Yes, it is the "old configuration" with the capacitor after the diode, but I have built and sold hundreds of these without experiencing that issue.  Tom has used them as well, even souped up if I recall.

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

Well i have to try next time with batteries before making any changes to make sure it is not failing because of my lab power.

But after moving C1 before D1, it has been working nice. Very good board thanks!

I’m learning how to use Eagle now and i was thinking to try draw SRK board with 3-4 7135’s groups so i could use without PWM, or maybe one 7135 with PWM, for best efficiency. Is there really sense, maybe not. Smile After that there is ofcourse problem with firmware, don’t know if someone has done that already.

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 4 weeks ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

You might check out some of the new triple channel drivers and firmware before designing your own Oshpark board.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

Sure, i tried to search but couldn’t find any triple channels, can you point me where i could find some?

Still i would like to learn Eagle (and better coding), have to try something and order and see what made. Smile

finges
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 11/19/2014 - 14:50
Posts: 504
Location: Germany

SJT wrote:
Sure, i tried to search but couldn’t find any triple channels, can you point me where i could find some?

Still i would like to learn Eagle (and better coding), have to try something and order and see what made. Smile

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48447

SJT
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/26/2013 - 18:22
Posts: 63
Location: Nordic

finges wrote:
SJT wrote:
Sure, i tried to search but couldn’t find any triple channels, can you point me where i could find some?

Still i would like to learn Eagle (and better coding), have to try something and order and see what made. Smile

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48447


I don’t know how i didn’t saw that there was really three channels used in that code and pcb, but yes, there really is. Have to say this looks really awesome, Texas_Ace has done really huge work for this driver!
MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13473
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

4 parallel 18650 battery plates. I’ve searched and cant find anything. does anyone know if they exist or even a battery carrier the ends can be robbed from? This is for the Ol comp light build.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14234
Location: LI NY

Steve - Can you salvage them from a cheap SRK? Might be cheaper overall.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13473
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Thanks Tom. I would if I had one. Wonder what the cheapest 4 cell torch out there is?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14234
Location: LI NY

Think about $14 US. Let me check my order history in Ali... smile

here it is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Power-3t6-LED-Flashlight-Torch-3-14t6-3-x-XM-L-T6-34000-LM

 

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1222
Location: Germany

OSHPARK says there must be a 15 mil clearing between traces and outline. Shouldn’t this also affect the ground ring on our flashlight drivers? I have checked a couple of board designs from forum members and have NOT seen this clearance anywhere. Isn’t oshpark that strikt with its design rules, or did they correct the gerbers or what else?

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 55 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 9264
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

It is hit and miss, sometimes they cut the copper back from the edge of the ground ring and sometimes not. I always have it extend to the edge and if they cut it back, so be it.

On driver that are really tight you can oversize the pcb and sand it back to make sure there is copper to the edge.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1222
Location: Germany

Thanks. I’‘m working on a Q8 driver currently and actually there is a tight fit from tube to board, so I think I have to do oversizing and sanding.

Btw I also had a look at some of your drivers and noticed you use a clearing of only 8 mil between ground pour and other signals. Have you ever experienced faulty boards because of this or did they all work out ok? And – as far as I could see – you don’t enable thermals for your ground pour – is soldering still easily doable without thermals?

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 55 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 9264
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

I use whatever the specs on oshpark are as the tolerances on my drivers, unless they changed recently that is. I always run the clearance test to make sure everything clears before releasing a driver. Never had an issue yet.

All my drivers are setup to be hot air reflowed, so the whole driver is heated and reflowed at once. In this case the thermal setup of the driver doesn’t effect the soldering a lot. Never tried it with an iron nor would I even try to do such a thing to be honest.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1222
Location: Germany

That’s good to know, thanks again.

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5895
Location: Germany

Oshpark wrote me the solder mask should no exeed 30 mil beyond the board cutout to not make problems in the fab, TA boards are copper poured to the board outline and so far all boards I ordered over 200
the bigger ines have copper till to the edge, but the small not, not sure why

just too wide solder mask of the 46mm and 21, 22mm LDO had problems the fab removed the outer solder mask ring as they hit boards around
On one fab ground rings were not removed, but the other made problems

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1222
Location: Germany

I’ve already read your former post (I guess in TA drivers thread) regarding this solder mask problem. Very helpful, thanks. Do I understand right: only the solder mask above the outer copper trace has been removed, and not the copper trace itself?

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5895
Location: Germany
Flashy Mike wrote:
I’ve already read your former post (I guess in TA drivers thread) regarding this solder mask problem. Very helpful, thanks. Do I understand right: only the solder mask above the outer copper trace has been removed, and not the copper trace itself?

The copper pour on TA drivers is matched to the board outline, of course it would be possible to manually widen it over the board outline, question is if its working

for solder mask
The Gerber files contain a ring shape that was on some drivers a few mm over the board outline
in one fab that collided with boards around it so it was automatically removed on the panel, so the copper ring was there but fully covered with solder mask

I try this experiment in one fab
copper pour and solder mask expanded beyond the board outline

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 1 hour ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 7699
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

I like life to be predictable. So all my boards are made within OSH Park design rules. I design all my boards to be bigger diameter to make up for the copper-to-edge set-back required. Then, they are ground down to the edge of the copper pour. Some people have gotten by with designs that had copper all the way to the edge. But sometimes (maybe now it’s all the time) OSH Park will set it back themselves. In some cases, that can make the board unfit for its intended purpose.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

WarHawk-AVG
WarHawk-AVG's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 06:47
Posts: 5071
Location: H-Town

I lost all my eagle stuff when I moved to linux

Can someone create and upload a 17mm to 20mm adapter board for the BLF 17mm driver for the new type C8 lights

Pages