Hi everyone!
This is my second SK98 clone and I decided try mt-g2 emitter since i read so much good stuff at this lovely place .
I’ve had different choices of sk98 hosts at Fasttech to choose between. I’ve decided to go for one with glass lens and hollow pill . The lens were plastic and prescratched but because I was aware of playing Chinese lottery I’ve ordered 23mm lens “just in case”. Pill was hollow which I wanted (maaaan, I just love these hollow pills :bigsmile:). Host itself was utterly dreadful. Zooming mechanism was extremely hard to operate followed by “beautiful” grinding and squeaking sounds. Body itself had few dings and one relatively large dent in battery tube. I didn’t mind all that quality issues because it will be modded anyways.
So, lets start with actual mod.
First of all I was aware of the fact that fairly driven mt-g2 produces tremendous amount of heat and to deal with all that heat there must be substantial changes to heat sinking. That is why I prefer hollow pills (they are more mod friendly, at least to me since I don’t have any sort of power tools ).
PILL MOD:
I’ve used the same copper sheet that I’ve used in my first sk98 clone mod which I made from copper pipe. I’ve cut down two small sheets with a saw.
After sawing, from those two sheets I’ve made three “octagon” discs by cutting corners of sheets with cutting pliers.
I forgot to take pictures of sanded “octagons” and process of soldering them together. I’ve soldered them on my mothers baking pan :zipper_mouth_face:. Between soldering and final product there was many hours (mainly because I don’t have caliper) of filing and sanding with various sanding-papers for snug/tight fit.
The second part of modifying of the pill was making second disc for inner side of the pill. Procedure was the same as first part but with even more hours of filing and sanding since it has larger diameter and thus more precision is needed for snug/tight fit.
Left on the photo you can see one of two indentations that I’ve made with round file for broaching leads. Thermal grease added on (I would say a bit to much of it but since I’ve made first copper “disc” about 1/2mm thicker, grease can go to empty place between two discs and replace some of the air ).
DRIVER MOD AND PILL ASSEMBLY:
There are the components that are waiting for being assembled. KD MT-G2, Nanjg 105c silicone 22AWG, 17mm to 20mm driver adapters recommended by Werner and two resistors (bigger one is 150Ω from decade old phone charger and second one is 200Ω new from eBay). I’ve also ordered 10pcs zener from eBay but they never arrived, so I’ve made a phone call to local RTV servis and ask them for zener rated from 3V-5V 1/2 - 1W, luckily they have them (4.3V 1W). On the photo there were three AMC 7135 350mA chips, but I’ve decided to go with four since it is rounder number (MOAR LUMENZ :bigsmile: )
I’ve forgot to take detailed photos of the pill (emitter and driver) assembling. Added AMC chips, solder blob between 3rd star and GND for L/M/H, 200Ω resistor replaces polarity protection diode and zener goes between capacitor and ground, added thermal paste under star and soldered leads to star . I’ve also replaced driver spring with DIY copper “spring” from solid copper wire. I’ve made it by wrapping the wire over screwdriver and sanding it to flat it. Sadly, I had no place for driver adapters because of battery and driver length issues (caused by adding copper disc) so I’ve made one on the same principle as i made one in my first sk98 clone mod but shorter.
MT-G2 goodness.
Since lens were plastic, and the lens bezel had indentations for press fit plastic lens I had to file down those indentations.
I’ve done it with el. motor with filed down one side of shaft. El. motor was from old cassette player connectet to 12V power supply from some old charger.
The dome is actually touching the lens a little which I kinda like. Everything in this flashlight is very very tight.
TAILCAP MOD:
In this photo you can see the the tailcap. In the brass insert I’ve added copper shot and solder, filed down almost to the beginning of the plastic housing of the switch. Switch itself is disassembled and internals are replaced with ones from Omten switch. Contact sheets are teared down to fit dimensions of the stock switch housing (again I forgot to take photos :~ ). Result is Omten performance in tiny package. Tailcap current is measured through the switch and without switch in the circuit. My DMM with short thick copper lead shows no difference with driver in the curcuit. Even on direct drive I’ve measured difference of 50mA which is nothing. I am quite happy with battery performance for the price.On Direct driver I’ve read 5.58A . I chose them thanks to HKJ-s tests and charts.
GLAMOUR:
Since I’ve read that anodising changes color when it’s exposed to heat I wanted to try something different with this host. Heating is done on kitchen gas stove. I’ve heated all four parts separately (body, bezel, “focusing” part and tailcap). On the body only the fins were exposed to flame to get color transition since fins have more mas thus more heat will be absorbed in that area. When iI liked the transition I’ve cooled it down by blowing in it. Bezel is exposed to heat until I’ve liked the color as well as “focusing” part. Tailcap was exposed less than bezel and “zooming” par because of orange transition. Finally some sanding and polishing the fins, “focusing” part and the bezel for BLING looks 8)
WHAT A MESS! J)
Thanks for reading.
I hope you’ll like it 
Oton.
EDIT: pictures reuploaded
. Wow. Excuse the terminology but that light is stuffed full of goodness.
