Ultrafire C2 clone @ ebay

I think it is a pretty good deal. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270691509583&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNASIF:GB:1123
Its just US $10.99 including postage.
This body by itself is more expensive on dx.

Dont you aggree?

Is there anyone who has this flashlight?

Take a good look at the pictures of the Ultrafire C8 knockoff in this thread. The one I got had a plastic pill and wasn't completely machined so a standard C2/C8 pill wouldn't fit so it was useless to mod.

I got a C2 kit from DX and built it and protected 18650 do not fit in the DX version so keep that in mind also.


If you pay $11 for that light then $9 for an XML emitter then $5 for a driver that's $25 and you have to put it together and hope you don't mess it up. You can buy the the KD C8 for less money and it is an awesome light no gamble on possibly getting a piece of junk you can't use.

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=11278

I really like the C2 kit light I built it handles the heat from an XML at 2.8amps no problem and it has awesome throw with that big reflector, but not being able to use protected batteries stinks.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-c2-diy-cree-led-flashlight-shell-casing-complete-set-with-driver-pill-1-18650-2-cr123a-15946

I am using protected (flame) batteries in C2 kit from DX, just a blob of solder instead of a spring on the pill works great ;)

For me it is better to put it together by myself because I can set the number of modes on KD driver and have a neutral XM-L instead of tint lottery

That is strange my link doesn't work. The C2 kit I built the protected flames don't fit yours must have a different tail cap.

If you have no plans for modding this light it is a really good deal especially with the extra battery tube so in that case I would buy it. There is no way of knowing if protected 18650s will fit until you get it unless the seller is willing to take some measurements for you. For what you want it is a bargain so go ahead and buy it and when you get it take pictures and post them it is a very interesting light I love my C2.

I like the Trustfire flame unprotected the best for the money they have a nipple on them, I can't find the link now. I have some batteries without nipples and they only work in lights that have a spring on the back of the driver(positive + end). It is much safer to use protected batteries maybe you should wait until you get the light to see if they fit you can always use the adapter with the 3 batteries until the 18650s come in.

I reread the post and I did not mean to sound harsh. When you said you wanted to put an XML in it I did not want you to order this light than have to wait weeks to get it only to be disappointed, it happened to me and it is no fun. This looks like a really good deal on a very interesting light.

I have no idea what kind of drop in those two lights take they are a knockoffs of a non standard light.

99% of the drop ins on the market are called P-60 drop ins these are a copy of the Surefire design and fit lights like the Solarfire L series and Ultrafire 500 series (501,502,503,504).

There are only two drop ins for the C8/C2 series lights that I have ever seen and they aren't very impressive.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/5w-120lumen-5mode-led-emitter-module-for-ultrafire-c8-p-6112

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/5w-120lumen-3mode-led-emitter-module-for-ultrafire-c8-p-6111

Unless you buy a light that takes a P60 drop in the only way I know of to modify those lights would be to remove the pill unsolder the driver and emitter and resolder a new emitter and driver in.

Just a warning, that's not a real c2 clone (lol). It takes 3*aaa which means the tube is larger than standard (that's not an extension, just a plastic tube/spacer). It's similar to the small sun c37, which I have, and the pill is not solid (though it's gamble whether it is here). Not a bad light, and quite funny because the reflector size (not standard c8/mrv) is such that you can glue a DX 50mm aspheretic to the front (just the right focal length) and make a bitchin' dedicated thrower. A tiny die size is cast.

Sorry, I actually have the 49mm from KD, not the dx one. I just used rubber cement to glue it so it's completely reversible.

The spacing is the black tube on the first image in your ebay link. It's just a plastic tube to keep the 18650 from rattling. Solid pill means the mbpcb contacts the pill in the back, not just along the small edge. Necessary for running long times on >1A current.

Q3/Q5 doesn't matter, it's all fake specs and a gamble what you get.

I'm not sure since I don't have it, but most of the really cheapo lights don't.

You can't really "fix" it since the material is missing.

Again, a 3*aaa body is not the same size as a 18650 only body.

These companies just copy off each other, sometimes w/ interoperable parts, sometime not. There's no way to be sure until you buy. If you wanted certainty, don't get random cheap crap as you're bound to be disappointed.

Just reading this thread, Gorann, and felt the need to chime in on this one. If your money is too tight to spend more on what you know will be a good light (happens to all of us), then this bargain might not be a bargain after all and I recommend you just pass on it and save for a couple more weeks. Get one you know will be a great light instead of chancing it on one that might be a passable light. I've been down this road myself recently and it's just a big disappointment. Too many "ifs" surrounding this "bargain". Just hold off and save a little longer for a known good light.

Best of luck either way!

Johnny

I don't think it's a "standard" body if such a thing exists. It look like a c8-ish light w/ thicker dimensions for aaa's.

hey guys, first post. i ordered one of these. the first one was doa. they sent me a new one. first thing i noticed on both was that the threads look like they were cut by a pipe threader bought at harbor freight. you could tell that they were cut on a lathe to the inside diameter of the tube. the main body's bore was bored off center so you had one side real thick and the other thinner. this produced deep threads on the thick walled side and almost nonexistent threads on the thin walled side. the cap and head rattled alot until it was screwed down tight. the light put out a tight focused beam into the night but left a nasty doughnut on a wall. it was only 10 bucks but i think that you'd be better off buying the real host on dx. was thinking about modding this light but decided that maybe i should just break it down for parts.

jmho,

monty