Roche F6 hacking

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phsinvent
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priest77 wrote:
I’ve just received F6 that I’ve ordered from FT but it seems to me to be the same as the one on banggood.
It has memory and my biggest problem is that I can’t find any lens for low battery indicator, and I don’t want it without that.
Can I turn it back or ask for refund?
Here are some pictures:

P.S.
Does the one from banggood has that low battery indicator or no?

Here is the difference:
!http://www.dodaj.rs/f/9/VC/1w9pNdRh/bi6xk2cl.jpg!

Any ideas on how to gain more output out of this driver? Resistor changes?

comfychair
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Bridge the bank of resistors at the bottom. Output will be limited then by the internal resistance of the FET (identified & link to datasheet earlier in the thread).

The BG F6s I got do have the fiber optic pickup for the battery indicator, but the cheaper version of the driver has the indicator LED right beside the switch which is all the way on the opposite side of the driver (lens is located directly over the bank of sense resistors), and it's not easily visible when on. It does at least function, tested with a single CR123+spacer.

comfychair
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Well shit. So there's no known source for the version I got first from Fasttech? The lesser versions from BG aren't any cheaper, I was going to buy a big pile of the 'good' ones from FT and use them as hosts, but now...

phsinvent
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comfychair wrote:

Bridge the bank of resistors at the bottom. Output will be limited then by the internal resistance of the FET (identified & link to datasheet earlier in the thread).

The BG F6s I got do have the fiber optic pickup for the battery indicator, but the cheaper version of the driver has the indicator LED right beside the switch which is all the way on the opposite side of the driver (lens is located directly over the bank of sense resistors), and it’s not easily visible when on. It does at least function, tested with a single CR123+spacer.

So just remove all the resistors from the bank of 4 or 5 and replace with solder? Maybe I should swap main led for a noctigon?

comfychair
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Yes, that's a given... direct drive + LED on aluminum = bad.

The resistors don't have to be removed, just add a jumper over them. There's even a blank spot you can use off to one side if you don't want to go over the top. Use a piece of scrap copper cut to roughly the same size as the resistors.

phsinvent
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comfychair wrote:

Bridge the bank of resistors at the bottom. Output will be limited then by the internal resistance of the FET (identified & link to datasheet earlier in the thread).

The BG F6s I got do have the fiber optic pickup for the battery indicator, but the cheaper version of the driver has the indicator LED right beside the switch which is all the way on the opposite side of the driver (lens is located directly over the bank of sense resistors), and it’s not easily visible when on. It does at least function, tested with a single CR123+spacer.

The SD01 version I got from Blackshadow solarstorm does not have the fiber optic pick up. The led is next to the side switch. And the SD01 only has 4 resistors instead of 5

comfychair
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What does it matter about the number of resistors? They are all in parallel. The total resistance of whatever resistors are present is what determines the output current. Four 1 ohm resistors in parallel is exactly the same resistance as a single 0.25 ohm resistor. If you are going to bridge them anyway it wouldn't matter if the pads had all been left blank and the stock output was zero amps.

priest77
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I have a few questions:
Do you have any idea how can I use that led for low voltage warning?
Should I drill a hole and put some other rounded red led there?
How did you removed the front glass, how can I open it there to get to the emitter?

@phsinvent
On that link they say that it has:
“custom-setting brightness level on High mode.”
How can you change brightness on High mode?

comfychair
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The cheaper driver as in your pics has a ramping mode. Fast double click to access. I forget the details of how it works, but it's there, I don't have one wired up that I can test right now.

If I had one without the indicator lens and wanted to use it (it's not really very useful anyway), I'd drill a hole and then fill it with clear epoxy. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161193700970

To remove the bezel, unscrew it.

priest77
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Thanks @comfyrchair for the tip with epoxy. What dimension of the drill should I use?

When I do fast double click it is just changin next two modes with a delay.
To unscrew the bezel should I turn it left or right?

comfychair
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The bezel is standard right hand thread, so counter-clockwise when looking at it from the front.

The brass driver retainer plate, though, is left hand thread - so turn that one clockwise to loosen. (they do that so that removing the battery tube won't loosen the driver retainer, it instead tightens it)

The indicator hole on the lights that have it is 4mm, though if you're going to plug it with epoxy it can be any size you wish. You could even make it square if you wanted to be all fancy.

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priest77 wrote:
P.S.
Does the one from banggood has that low battery indicator or no?

Here is the difference:

A few days ago I have received one from BG, has not that indicator. Its head is like the left.

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

comfychair
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The better driver is the one Helios- already did for us. https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/OQDe10xU

I'm awaiting a reply from Simon, about if his stock has the indicator lens or not. I don't care about which driver it comes with, if I can't reflash it with a usable UI it'll just go in the leftover parts bin with the rest of them.

edit: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-Roche-F6-EDC-HAIII...

syracuse
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The one I got from Simon does not has the indicator lens.

comfychair
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Well, got in touch with one of the overseas resellers and was informed that the original version - nice tint LED, copper MCPCB, good driver, lens for battery warning - is no longer being produced. The only ones being made currently are the cheaped-out no frills version, with the ugly green LED, AL MCPCB, crappy driver with the stupid UI, no lens in the side.

But of course, they're still the same price. It's no longer a $23 light, it's now a $12 light that's sold for $23. Awesome! Angry

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comfychair wrote:
…, they’re still the same price. It’s no longer a $23 light, it’s now a $12 light that’s sold for $23. Awesome! Angry
But… some at reasonable prices… http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_35804.html and GB660

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

phsinvent
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That’s a good price for $20 shipped. I don’t mind the modes on this driver. Low, medium and High is all I would really need. I don’t need the strobe. My biggest gripe is output so we will see what happens when I bridge all the resistors. The emitter can easily be swapped also.

For the low battery warning on the original, can you even see the light when it is lit on the opposite side through the window?

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If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

phsinvent
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antiparanoico wrote:
!http://i.imgur.com/AIy1WvKl.png!

Awesome deal. I couldn’t see how much the coupon made it because I didn’t join as a member. Can’t complain about $15.55

priest77
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where is that?

phsinvent
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Post # 106

priest77
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Do they really have the good version of F6?
They say it is without memory and in the pictures the “low power warning” lens can be seen.

Where can I buy this strap separately?

comfychair
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I only care about the voltage indicator window thing because the fancy replacement driver has the provision for two onboard LEDs, and with a easily reflashed controller and two LEDs you could make it do some very interesting things. Well, someone who understands how to code for these things could, though I am not that someone. I only do the nuts & bolts stuff.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08517.jpg

comfychair
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All those sites are still using old stock photos from the very first 'good' version of the F6, the pictures are in no way related to the current-production light you will be sent. It's impossible to know what you will get from any of those guys. The pictures never change, the listed specs never change, if it looks kinda similar on the outside that's good enough for them to pretend it's still the same light.

phsinvent
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comfychair wrote:

I only care about the voltage indicator window thing because the fancy replacement driver has the provision for two onboard LEDs, and with a easily reflashed controller and two LEDs you could make it do some very interesting things. Well, someone who understands how to code for these things could, though I am not that someone. I only do the nuts & bolts stuff.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08517.jpg

Have you installed that custom driver yet? How much ma output are you expecting? I’m going to remove all the resistors on the one version driver tonight and replace with solder and see what happens.

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I haven't measured this one directly but it's the same parts and firmware as the other BLF-DD drivers, and those do 6.5-7A to a single XML2, and over 10A into a triple XPG2 (using good cells, 25R or VTC5). No reason for this one to be doing anything different. I have 3 F6s completed using the new driver, 1x dedomed XML2/8* TIR, 1x XPG2/stock reflector, and one triple 219B.

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Oh wow, have you fired up any of these new creations of the F6? 6-7 amps is plenty of fun.

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Of course.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08649.jpg

The triple gets hot at about the same rate as if the LEDs were replaced with a solid piece of copper creating a direct short... I suppose I could make an extension handle that screws into the tripod mount on the back, that might help prevent blisters. Silly

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Any idea how well the F6 fares underwater? I’m still looking for a reasonably compact 1×18650 light with e-switch and a flashable driver for use in a wet environment… er, actually, part of a water fountain.

I tried to get a ZY-T29, but it’s apparently discontinued. Still looking for other hosts to try. The F6 always looked nice aside from being a bit cramped for modding, but if there is a replacement driver available it might be a good option.

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comfychair wrote:

Of course.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08649.jpg

The triple gets hot at about the same rate as if the LEDs were replaced with a solid piece of copper creating a direct short… I suppose I could make an extension handle that screws into the tripod mount on the back, that might help prevent blisters. Silly

I bet they get hot fast now. Is it just me or is there a strange green glow from the middle F6?

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