Bought a C3 XP-E but hate the driver... What can I do?

Heya,

I got this cheap light from FastTech .
It has 3 modes and no memory…. and whenever you turn it on it goes to the next mode. So every 3rd time I turn on I get blinky….

What is the easiest way to correct this? … I am not looking for brighter, just better modes…

Can someone recommend a suitable cheap driver, single mode, or something with memory….or something that always starts on high? suitable for this single AA flashlight.

Thanks

Get a new driver, or maybe this will work for you.

Yup…either the pencil lead trick for a reset back to high after a few seconds (cheapest, easiest, quickest method)

Might even go as far as replacing the XP-E with a bit beefier and better thrower XP-G (G2)

Is this suitable 3V~5V 3* AMC7135 LED Flashlight -
Link

Yes but you will have to use a Li Ion 14500, will no longer boost 1.5vdc AA battery up to voltage needed to drive the emitter

This would be a good 3*7135 http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001684/1122400-3-amc7135-4-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-c

But you could go with a 4*7135 http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001686/1122401-4-amc7135-2-group-3-5-modes-led-flashlight-driver

But like I said…these are Li Ion linear regulator drivers only

This is a 5-mode boost 500mA~ for AA and 14500
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001750/1127407

Really should try the pencil reset first. It will always starts on high. A driver replacement for AA light is pretty expensive compared to the light price.

ding ding ding

I say try that first

How do I do the pencil trick as starting high would work great…actually I am sure I can use the search function as good as anyone… hold caller…

On the beginning we used resistor. The pencil trace (much easier) is only discovered on later posts. Try reading those newer pages.

Thanks, popped the driver open and there are 2 capacitors…which one shall I try…hmmm

Pics = 1000 words :wink:

6 pin IC is the deal responsible for the modes, try scrubbing a heavy pencil line from metal end to metal end of the cap and then try it out (2 o’clock position in picture)

Click to medium…let it run for a few seconds…turn off…wait 5-10 seconds turn back on…see if it starts in strobe or resets back to high, repeat 3x times to make sure it works…if it drops to one mode, simply take an eraser and gently erase the graphite line you put on it

Cap next to coil is for the boost function of the driver I believe

Looks alot like the SK68 driver

Ok, now I turn it off, leave it a while and it always starts in blinky mode……I shall do some more testing…

Only in blink mode, erase and try a thinner line

The graphite line should allow the capacitor to drain and reset back to high, if too shorted will only start in one mode

Someone else should be able to chime in as well

If I want it to always be high can I do something else with the capacitor to force it always?

My concern is that blinky is the default and if I remove the capacitor it will be blinky forever…

Oh man… blinky is the default! :open_mouth:

This is the second time I heard it. Probably a year ago I’ve read about a C8 that does this. The horror may be true after all.

No choice but to dump the driver. The mode sequence is hardcoded in the IC.

If you want, you can grab those sk68 on sale at gearbest ($3.22) to steal its driver. Unfortunately that is still the cheaper option if you want a AA boost driver with modes. If you’re willing to drop AA and use only 14500, then a whole lot of other choices are there.

I see “0.9V~3.6V / 500mA@1.5V / 800mA@3.6V / 17mm”

on that FastTech driver — for a white LED, does that handle a freshly charged LiIon at 4.2v?

(I want to use an amber LED, an added problem, I assume I just don’t use LiIon at all for those— I tried asking FastTech about driving amber, and got a “huh? this is what we sell” reply, so trying here)

But it’s definitely time to rip out the “next mode memory” problem lights.

Well, I have done my first mod, was not having much luck modifying the driver using pencil so I grabbed my child’s sk68 (he cried) and I took the driver from it and transplanted into the C3… now it has one mode… even managed to put the sk68 back together with the horrid driver and my boy and wife are now happy!

Thanks for the help… It was actually a great trial for a few mods I have on order…

Sorry, may be an old post but I have been searching for some time and
have not found out the diameter of the driver in this SS C3

Warhawk stated that the driver in this light is very similar to the SK68 driver.
And the OP in this thread said that the diameter of the SK68 driver is 15mm.

Reason I’m trying to figure this out is that I plan to replace the driver as soon as it arrives with a 17mm driver.
If the pill does not accept a 17mm driver does anyone think that the pill could be turned down to accept one?

Cheers.