1) Is it just the host, a kit, or a completely assembled light? My preference is just the host but I'll go with whatever!
2) What is the internal length from the BATT- spring to the lip of the light? I'm asking because I may actually install a triple into this light, which means the heat sink will sit further forward, leaving more room between BAT+ and BAT-. If I can fit an 18500 cell in there it would be better than having to pad out the emitter pill to make up for the increased depth.
3) Is the switch removable after it's been installed? The fact you use the teflon/press fit method suggests it's not, although I guess this comes down to whether or not it's a complete light. I only ask because I'm not a massive fan of reverse clickies so if I can install my own switch I'd be happy.
I’m interested to see your response to Mattaus. I think a bunch of us would like to incorporate Matt’s switch if that is a possibility. Or I could send you a Tofty switch for building one for me. Talk to you soon.
I prefer/encourage my customers to be able to build, so yes. Hosts/Kits only for now. Maybe If I achieve something that hasnt been done already i’ll offer completed lights, But I will keep a basic option for a pre-assembled light with stock emitter/driver that is still mod-able.
Gotcha
Almost all my work uptil now has been custom designed hosts, that are made for optimal heatsinking. I will send the dimensions shortly but I think you do have the general idea. The 18500 would be a perfect fit in that case. Alternatively I can custom machine heads specifically for the carclo/20mm optics. Switch is removable just by unscrewing the teflon housing.
Thanks will, Been wanting to share my work and make some custom lights for a while now.
P.S: Your extended tailcap for the MS-SSW will be there by monday.
I have a few 18500 cells but no lights to use them in. The current emitter heatsink seems fine for a triple - the only modification that would need to be made is to flatten the top and drill a center hole rather than two side holes. I can easily modify the existing pill to do this (I've done it before using solder and a drill press). So please don't do anything that increases your workload, although I'd imagine there'd be demand for this modification. The dimensions in the head are perfect for triples as well; the optics are 20mm, so a straight swap for that reflector.
How does the switch stay in place? Screw in? I ask because I'm building an electronic switch that installs natively into SolarForce or SureFire C-series tail caps:
If I can use this switch in your host I'd be very happy. 18500 based, smart switch, programmable driver, triple Nichia 219, and a full copper host...yes please!
Sweet Matt! But that begs a question of my own…this flashlight host with it’s threaded Teflon sleeve (love it!) has a brass post for the activation of the clicky switch, not a rubber boot. (love this too!) How will an electronic switch work with a solid brass post against it? The rubber cover usually acts as a spring to keep the button retracted from the switch, wouldn’t have that with this tail cap. Would this be a problem?
Edit: I reckon a small large diameter spring could be fitted, to fit around the e-switch and keep the brass button pushed out. Lee spring is touting a wave spring for a low profile in tight tolerance applications, this would give a firm button feel and keep the brass button in the off or out position, while allowing some tactile feel on the e-switch, no?
As with everything in life I'm sure it won't be a simple swap. I too really like the brass button look, which is one of the reasons why I am attracted to this host (nothing dirty). I actually hadn't thought about how the button wold react when released. The e-switch I use has a natural spring tendency, but probably not enough to force the brass button back out. Your suggestion is very likely what I would do to counter this problem, and I even have some wave springs on me from Smalley Springs. They are steel though and impossible to solder. I'd probably have to create a variant of the top PCB used in the smart switch to allow for the spring to be fixed in place, but that would take me all of 5 seconds to do.
Obviously this is all moot at this point in time. I'm in for a host regardless!
I'll have to look it up. When it was machined I simply provided the host to the guy who did it and he made one that fit. Unfortunately that size is not familiar to me...
EDIT: I found reference to 20TPI. The adapter is 5.9mm high but I'll have to get you the external dimensions tonight, though I think it's a tad bit under 22mm.
11/16” 20 is what McClicky thread size is (11/16= 17.454mm Diameter) and (20 TPI - Threads per inch)
M22x1.0 is 1mm threads of 22mm diameter so there are 25.4 threads per inch in metric.
I guess a small brass ring/adapter could easily be made for a McClicky without even needing to modify the tailcap of the host. If your switch had the same threads I have no doubt it is going to be a winner.
Dont worry about it my friend, I sent it anyway as I had the chance, otherwise it would have been months and it is better yours than mine.
Sounds like just the thread size needs to be adjusted , the diameter is already 22mm. I will be able to machine the threads 7/8-20TPI , let me know if that is the correct size.
