NiWalker Nova MiniMax MM15 2x Cree MT-G2 P0 5233lm LED 18650 Flashlight

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M4D M4X
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I was told today that they are out of stock until end of March and do not accept pre-orders right now…

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

antoninodattola
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The runtime is wrong! 

 

On cpfitalia, we talked about it, if you already makes into the calculations is impossible! 

 

2 people have carried out surveys, the duration of the 5th level with cells 3100mAh is about 2.30h 

 

with a drop of constant brightness.

RedForest UK
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antoninodattola wrote:

The runtime is wrong! 

 

On cpfitalia, we talked about it, if you already makes into the calculations is impossible! 

 

2 people have carried out surveys, the duration of the 5th level with cells 3100mAh is about 2.30h 

 

with a drop of constant brightness.

Yes, I finally got round to doing some calculations and current readings too. The readings give 1.05-1.15A on L5 (2000 lumens), whilst the original figures suggested impossible efficiency of over 300lm/w.

Selfbuilt has since acknowledged the mistake and updated his runtime graphs with accurate figures, as are now linked to in my original posts.

Having now got one myself I would like to point out that despite these mistakes in claimed runtime from earlier tests, the efficiency is still very good, especially for such a great and tightly binned tint. Output/size ratio is also still amazing (the 5200 OTF lumen figures were NOT mistaken!) and the overall quality is top class. I’m certainly still very happy with mine.

lionheart_2281
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How long can this be run in turbo mode in stock form?

I know the Vinh modded ones are good for only about 2 minutes max before cooking your hand.

RedForest UK
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It depends entirely on the ambient temperature and airflow. Selfbuilt sees his thermal step-down kick in at about 6 minutes inside, but I have run it outside with a small amount of airflow and at around 10-15 celsius for about 20 minutes continuously with no step-down.

Tom E
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Mines on the way - should be a couple of days -- looks awesome!! Smile

Shame about the thermal protection, but maybe I can fool it. After all it does have a handle, so your hand shouldn't get burnt SmileSmile.

Tom E
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Got mine today. Of course didn't waste much time - had to take a looky. I'm not too crazy about the UI and inconsistent click activations - it's hard to get the double click to work - after lots of attempts, can't get it working consistently.

 Didn't realize the cells are 4S, but they are. Also the output levels seem to depend on the cell's power. Freshly charged, higher lumens output. Even left to cool down, with weaker cells, lower lumens output. I measured pretty close to selfbuit's #'s across all modes for the "shipping" MM15 version - review here: CPF-Niwalker-MiniMax-Nova-MM15-(2xMT-G2-4x18650)-SHIPPING-Review. I'm thinking it will vary by cell resistance, but did not verify/test that.

Looks like one big copper MCPCB. I can tell from looking from the driver side. The LED wires are a pathetic 24 AWG, 150C rated - no clue why so weak. Looks quite clear where the current sensing or current limiting resistors are - there's 4 in line, 3 R100's and one R068. They are not the usual 1206's, but are smaller - probably 0805's.

First things I do is copper bypass the 4 + springs in the carrier, and upgrade those LED wires to 20 gauge if possible. Then start experimenting with resistors. the driver electronics is actually on the + side of the battery carrier -- pretty weird but keep the unit nice and compact.

dazed1
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Hi Tom E, thanks for sharing!

Can you please tell me what would be the theoretical runtime on turbo, (with restarts) with 4x Panas PF 2900mah and 4S battery configuration? (relatively)

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

Tom E
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Hhmm. To guess, I'd have to know at least a tailcap reading, and don't have that yet. Actually to take a reading, thinking I'd have to rig up a 4 cell, low resistance carrier with heavy gauge wires, and plug it into the carrier.... Hhhmmm. Think guys on CPF were posting amp values - not sure how they got them... Because the battery carrier is also the driver, it's not so modular... There's probably an obvious way but I'm still pretty limited in my test equipment.

I think this unit's output and amps is quite dependent on cells - resistance, age, charge level, etc. I'm mostly speculating at this point, but the couple of readings I did is indicating that. 5,200 true OTF lumens on fresh cells ain't bad for a light this size. Plus it will be able to do that level output more than just a few mins, and not go up in smoke or drain the cells. It's not quite ready for search and rescue for hours of use, but it's more than a "wow" effect light.

I really do like flooders and this one may be the reigning king at this price point and certainly form factor. My modded J18's can compete with this, but at a different level of course. They laugh at 5,000 lumens... Smile

Edit: vinh says stock is 4.4A -- not sure how to interpret that, but best guess is 4.4A to each LED, so maybe not a good # to use to figure out battery life.

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Thanks Tom Smile

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

M4D M4X
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to measure amps you could try to use very flat copper bars…

copper/insulator/copper – solder the measuring wires to the copper and fit that sandwich between a battery and that button on the pcb…

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

Tom E
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M4D M4X wrote:
to measure amps you could try to use very flat copper bars... copper/insulator/copper - solder the measuring wires to the copper and fit that sandwich between a battery and that button on the pcb...

Interesting idea, may give it a go. The unreliability of the e-switch is very frustrating though. I may be contacting NiWalker over this -- I'm finding it unacceptable in a $200+ light.

lionheart_2281
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Tom E wrote:

M4D M4X wrote:
to measure amps you could try to use very flat copper bars… copper/insulator/copper – solder the measuring wires to the copper and fit that sandwich between a battery and that button on the pcb…

Interesting idea, may give it a go. The unreliability of the e-switch is very frustrating though. I may be contacting NiWalker over this — I’m finding it unacceptable in a $200+ light.

As you probably know, alot of Vinh’s customers are raging over the MM15’s switch, sounds horrid and probably something they need to revise

Tom E
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No - haven't been keep'n up over there. Interesting... Bad news is it's all on vinh because he is the reseller. I think he's a direct with NiWalker, so he is the responsible seller -- ouch, becaue I know he makes good with his customers. If you notice, a couple of the MM15vn's are being posted for sale already - seems no reasons stated for the sale, but betta one reason is the flaky UI.

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Tom E wrote:

No – haven’t been keep’n up over there. Interesting… Bad news is it’s all on vinh because he is the reseller. I think he’s a direct with NiWalker, so he is the responsible seller — ouch, becaue I know he makes good with his customers. If you notice, a couple of the MM15vn’s are being posted for sale already – seems no reasons stated for the sale, but betta one reason is the flaky UI.

I bet the other reason is that turbo can’t be used for more than 2 minuntes, then it’s basically a crap SRK with 2000 lumens.

Tom E
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Smile - could be true lionheart, but those 2 mins are moments of luminous glory... Innocent   Just double click to continue at your own risk, if your double click works that is...

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Tom E wrote:

Smile - could be true lionheart, but those 2 mins are moments of luminous glory… Innocent   Just double click to continue at your own risk, if your double click works that is…

Only if I have an oven mitt handy!

Tom E
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Mods I did so far:

  • added 22 AWG wires in all 4 springs
  • replaced 24 AWG LED leads with 20 AWG, same length
  • replaced thermal grease under the star with smaller amt of GC Extreme
  • used NO-OX-ID on carrier screws and threaded connectors of the carrier
  • sanded the underside of the copper star smooth to 2500 GRIT - there was some weird imprinting on the back of the star - NiWalker in reverse, other markings -- just weird, never saw this before

 All results indicate nothing changed, really. Still getting ~5,200 OTF at 30 secs - it dropped heavily from turn on, which is about ~5,500 lumens, but did the same before. So this means it's a pretty well regulated driver. Don't think the changes are for naught because I'll up the amps with a resistor mod eventually. I would think the resistance mods should help more at higher amps, and maybe help extend battery life -- I'm guessing...

 During my testing, the light went dead though - switch would not do a thing, no more blinking green LED - thought I killed it. so took out the batts, re-inserted - everything returned to working. This makes me suspect the firmware locked up. Wonder if it's related to the e-switch. Either there's mech/electro issues with the switch, or the de-bouncing logic is a disaster. Sometimes it takes 4 clicks to get a click to work, usually 1,2 or 3 though.

Ok -- think I isolated down to force applied on the switch. More force, the more reliable it is. Just because you hear/feel the switch doesn't mean it will work. This is sort of good - this means it should be fixable by switch replacement, I would think...

saypat
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Tom E wrote:

Mods I did so far:

  • added 22 AWG wires in all 4 springs
  • replaced 24 AWG LED leads with 20 AWG, same length
  • replaced thermal grease under the star with smaller amt of GC Extreme
  • used NO-OX-ID on carrier screws and threaded connectors of the carrier
  • sanded the underside of the copper star smooth to 2500 GRIT – there was some weird imprinting on the back of the star – NiWalker in reverse, other markings — just weird, never saw this before

 All results indicate nothing changed, really. Still getting ~5,200 OTF at 30 secs – it dropped heavily from turn on, which is about ~5,500 lumens, but did the same before. So this means it’s a pretty well regulated driver. Don’t think the changes are for naught because I’ll up the amps with a resistor mod eventually. I would think the resistance mods should help more at higher amps, and maybe help extend battery life — I’m guessing…

 During my testing, the light went dead though – switch would not do a thing, no more blinking green LED – thought I killed it. so took out the batts, re-inserted – everything returned to working. This makes me suspect the firmware locked up. Wonder if it’s related to the e-switch. Either there’s mech/electro issues with the switch, or the de-bouncing logic is a disaster. Sometimes it takes 4 clicks to get a click to work, usually 1,2 or 3 though.

Ok — think I isolated down to force applied on the switch. More force, the more reliable it is. Just because you hear/feel the switch doesn’t mean it will work. This is sort of good – this means it should be fixable by switch replacement, I would think…

appreciate your sharing this light, I’m hoping more will. Thanks Tom.

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Tom E wrote:
think I isolated down to force applied on the switch. More force, the more reliable it is. Just because you hear/feel the switch doesn’t mean it will work. This is sort of good – this means it should be fixable by switch replacement, I would think…

I’ve had this issue on old computer mice clickie switches. They wear out and the contacts get cruddy. Shouldn’t happen on a new switch.
Tom E
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TexasToasted wrote:
Tom E wrote:
think I isolated down to force applied on the switch. More force, the more reliable it is. Just because you hear/feel the switch doesn't mean it will work. This is sort of good - this means it should be fixable by switch replacement, I would think...

I've had this issue on old computer mice clickie switches. They wear out and the contacts get cruddy. Shouldn't happen on a new switch.

Well, I found others mentioning this same exact problem with a new MM15. Yes - same thing happens to my TV cable remote after some time - you have to press harder and harder... But this is as it was shipped, so different, but the same (?). I could get used to it, and now that I know, it makes it much easier to use. I'm thinking not all units have this issue though. Probably one day I'll see if the switch can be accessed - maybe I'll find it's not aligned properly. I should just start a new thread and take a poll because I know there are a few BLF'ers with this light now, modified and not modified.

hkequipment
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Restock arrived. Please visit our store for order

Regards,

hkequipment - www.hkequipment.net

Email - cs@hkequipment.net

Skype / Twitter - hkequipment

saypat
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hkequipment wrote:
Restock arrived. Please visit our store for order

coupon not working

TexasToasted
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saypat wrote:
hkequipment wrote:
Restock arrived. Please visit our store for order

coupon not working

Working for me.

hkequipment
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Just tested is ok. Please try again. If still doesn’t work, please PM us, Thanks

Regards,

hkequipment - www.hkequipment.net

Email - cs@hkequipment.net

Skype / Twitter - hkequipment

saypat
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hkequipment wrote:
Just tested is ok. Please try again. If still doesn’t work, please PM us, Thanks

that’s kind of weird. If I copy and paste the code it doesn’t work. But if I just type it in it works. Oh well, got it working. Now I just need an ‘installment plan.’

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You might have a space at the end when you copy, thats not there when you type it.

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I have this light
http://www.niwalkerlight.com/content/?275.html
The switch is damaged though I did not use it much at all. Now it doesn’t have the 2 clear level clicks. I can only do a soft click and it turns on low or mode 2 I guess. If I click strongly it will go to turbo.
I can’t change modes.
How do I fix it? How do I open the switch – it has 3 dents in each corner
Where do I get the replacement switch?

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