WTB: old / broken / for-parts Nitecore D10 / D11

Just figured out how to do a really awesome mod, looking to pick up a few more, prefer the D10 cause I like the tail design better but also interested in D11/D11.2's. Prefer non-working (can even be stripped of all electronics as long as body parts are all there.

Not interested in 2 cell models or EX (CR123) versions.

Going to share the really awesome mod? :bigsmile:

I’ve fit a BLF15DD V3.0 in, cutting the contact side of the boards ground ring away from the via’s and wiring it to MCU pin 3 the. Flash it with your favorite momentary FW and run a 14500, the light isn’t together yet, waiting on a 10mm sinkPAD, but running the completed pill on the bench using the piston/body to switch it its running great. To bad mine is so beat up, I’d love to get a good looking black D10 to do the same thing to, hints the WTB.

Looked like how the piston switch worked with the original driver. I wondered if the piston would give clean enough switching for the star momentary FW or if it would need to be tweaked with more aggressive switch debouncing. Do you have the light together enough to see if it ever registers a double click by mistake? Are you having the piston make contact with the snap on contact ring or direct contact with the BLF15DD?

DIY re-anodizing? :bigsmile:

Its a little more than ano issues, on the back on the body one of the “ears” is missing so the light won’t even tail stand. If I can get a D10 I would probably end up EDC’ing the light some but not as is, right now it’s just a project that has potential if I can find a good host. I’ll also likely switch to a TIR with a nice wide beam (like 60-80*), I was never very happy with the D11 beam.

As for how it works, it’s only the pill on the bench with the piston held on by hand so I can’t do much testing, I’m running werner’s UI (well a modded version anyway) and it seems to work pretty well with the long press/short press system.

The piston is always I’m contact with the sprung ring, when that ring is pressed down onto the driver it shorts to the cut free segment of ring which is wired to the e-switch input.

I just bought a near-mint d10 body from cpfmarketplace for $22.50. Will sell for the same shipped (put a d11 engine in it but cannot figure out why it only works in momentary mode only). Would sell without the light engine like I rec’d it of course.

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