Concept to reality - The Warsun BLFX - What features would everyone like to see?

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blfdemigod
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Concept to reality - The Warsun BLFX - What features would everyone like to see?

The Warsun BLFX

 

Well, I have been talking to Mr. Fang from Warsun Optoelectronics Technology Company on creating a light that many people and BLF members, such as myself, would want personally. So far these are the features that I have requested from him, but I am sure there is still room for improvement some. The MOQ he is asking for is not to much, so it is becoming a real possibility that once the final samples are complete, we can get this baby off the ground, one way or another.

 

The flashlight can take up to 3x18650 with the optional extender tubes. As it is, the Warsun is a very solid flashlight, and build quality is excellent and solid. It is pretty on par, or just slightly below that of my Nitecore, Fenix, Solarforce lights, but yet are sold at Convoy prices. This makes an incredibly solid light at a very affordable price.

 

What features would everyone like to see in this light? There is still a window of time to relay to Mr. Fang what modifications we would like to see. I am really hoping we can put the features that the majority of us BLF members would like to see most in this light.

 

This is what I have asked of him so far, but I still think it can be a little more polished.

  1. Driver - 3.0+ Amps to LED
  2. Modes - high (100%), medium(30%), low(1%).... (2 hidden MODES, with a quick 0.25 second double press goes to strobe mode, then beacon mode)
  3. Stainless steel bezel and tailcap
  4. Flat/dry HAIII anodizing
  5. Blue LED power button constant on while in use, with red BLINKING low battery indicator at 3.25V,
  6. Forward clicky tailcap with momentary on
  7. Stainless steel lanyard ring for tactical press on flashlight.
  8. Reflector - A hybrid reflector of Convoy L4/C8 with deepness of Warsun reflector's, for more flood and better throw than C8.
  9. Remove current black plastic piece over LED, and replace with white flat plastic Isolator.
  10. Cree XM-L2 U2 1A or 1D on NOCTIGON PCB

 Ok, here are some additional things I have requested and we shall see what Mr. Fang says.

1. Blue Glow-in-the-dark O-ring and Tailcap to match blue power LED status. Should also come with spare black o-ring and tailcap

2. A little less stainless steel in the tail-cap, as I have shown in the second picture.

3. Is possible to make driver 4 Amps, that stays on 100% for only 90 seconds, then steps down to 75% automatically for overheat safety feature? Many many people want more than 3 Amp driver. Please let me know if this is possble. Many people in forum, have driver to Cree XM-L2 LED to 5-6 Amps with no problem. 4 Amp driver should not be a problem.

4. Stainless steel bezel - Original Warsun Tactical bezel made in polished stainless steel to match stainless steel tail-cap.

5. Driver must have No PWM - No Pulse Width Modulation

6. Extender tube - Same square knurling on extension tube to match the flashlight body


7. Modes - 100%-30%-5%-moonlight............ Hidden modes (activated by 3x press of side switch within 0.35 seconds)

8. Ramping mode - This is activated by pressing side switch 2x and will start at 2% and work it's way up to 100% within 5 seconds. Once side switch is pressed 2x, flashlight will go 2%-4%-6%-8%-10%-12%-14%..... all the way up to 100% where then it will stay at 100% for 3 seconds, then start to go back down to 2%. i.e. 100%-98%-96%-94%-92%.... If user presses the side switch again anytime while flashlight is ramping, the flashlight ramping will stop where ever flashlight is currently at in the ramping mode. Driver must also have MEMORY  when powered off, so user can save this last used mode next time flashlight is turned on.

10. Two different LED for cool white and warm white - XM-L2 U2 1A and XM-L2 T6 4C


11. name "BLFX" printed on flashlight. Printing name on side is complimentary. Engraving will add considerably to cost.

 

Concept:

Warsun BLFX Concept

 

Reality:

Warsun BLFX

 

Warsun BLFX Front

 

Warsun BLFX Tailcap

 

 

 

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Edited by: blfdemigod on 05/26/2014 - 21:12
mhanlen
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No visible PWM or none at all. Also moonlight mode- depending on output 1% may not be low enough.

Helios-
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I presume its a buck or buck boost driver. Pictures?
AVR microcontroller with programing header pins.
I would lose those fins at the tail. Serves no purpose & will just collect dirt.
Less stainless steel at the tail. Its not visually balanced with the head.

What price are we looking at?


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TexasToasted
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blfdemigod wrote:
Modes – high (100%), medium(30%), low(1%)…. (2 hidden MODES, with a quick 0.25 second double press goes to strobe mode, then beacon mode)

This is why I have to replace the driver in most of my lights. I cant stand it when I want to quickly change from high to low, or low to high, and I get in the obnoxious blinkie modes.
If you absolutely must have obnoxious blinkie modes, put them behind a 3 second long press so I don’t have to cycle through them by mistake.

blfdemigod
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Under $20 as for now, but final production cost once everything is said and done will hopefully be under $30. I did say it was going to be affordable right Smile But the quality is VERY HIGH, considering the price.

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TexasToasted wrote:
blfdemigod wrote:
Modes – high (100%), medium(30%), low(1%)…. (2 hidden MODES, with a quick 0.25 second double press goes to strobe mode, then beacon mode)

This is why I have to replace the driver in most of my lights. I cant stand it when I want to quickly change from high to low, or low to high, and I get in the obnoxious blinkie modes.
If you absolutely must have obnoxious blinkie modes, put them behind a 3 second long press so I don’t have to cycle through them by mistake.


10+
Double click strobe kills a driver for me.


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bgyen
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Looks good. I like the double hole for the lanyard.

I think the extension tubes would be better with the same knurling pattern through out.
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bgyen wrote:
I think the extension tubes would be better with the same knurling pattern through out.

I wanted to mention that but resisted just to keep my list of changes short.


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AR coated glass
Hold to ramp (log brightness scale, 2-sec pause on max and min)
Memory mode for physical switch

$20-30 is a very nice price for the light!

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Ejected Filament
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Im not big on knurling, I find things drop if I let them go, not because of the lack of knurling. Ive never been holding something like a torch in my hand and had it drop despite my grip due to the slippery surface.

TexasToasted wrote:
…blinkie modes, put them behind a 3 second long press so I don’t have to cycle through them by mistake.

Perfect.

Helios- wrote:
I presume its a buck or buck boost driver. Pictures?
AVR microcontroller with programing header pins.
I would lose those fins at the tail. Serves no purpose & will just collect dirt.
Less stainless steel at the tail. Its not visually balanced with the head.

These two make sense to me.

The other one, no idea. So maybe that too.

bgyen
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I too am not too fond of the cutouts in the tail. Think it would better without them.

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mhanlen wrote:
No visible PWM or none at all. Also moonlight mode- depending on output 1% may not be low enough.

No PWM. Check! Shouldn't be hard, as all it is is programming. Maybe 100%-30%-5%-moonlight?

 

Helios- wrote:
I presume its a buck or buck boost driver. Pictures? AVR microcontroller with programing header pins. I would lose those fins at the tail. Serves no purpose & will just collect dirt. Less stainless steel at the tail. Its not visually balanced with the head. What price are we looking at?

Once the driver is completed by Mr. Fang, I will upload pics and give more info about it.

As for the fins, whats wrong with them? I like them Smile That and they are based off a pre-existing mould that Warsun already has, which makes the price very cheap for us. To lose the fins, they would have to create a new mould, which cost $2000-$5000, so I think we will just keep them Smile

 

TexasToasted wrote:
blfdemigod wrote:
Modes - high (100%), medium(30%), low(1%).... (2 hidden MODES, with a quick 0.25 second double press goes to strobe mode, then beacon mode)
This is why I have to replace the driver in most of my lights. I cant stand it when I want to quickly change from high to low, or low to high, and I get in the obnoxious blinkie modes. If you absolutely must have obnoxious blinkie modes, put them behind a 3 second long press so I don't have to cycle through them by mistake.

I didn't think of this, but makes a lot of sense. Also, I forgot to mention one can turn off the light from the side switch by holding it for 3 seconds, basically putting it in standby. I think that would be a better for a long press. That being said, maybe we can make it a quick 3x press within 0.25-0.35 seconds to activate the hidden strobe and beacon modes? Surely no one is going to to be changing modes that quick, will they?

 

bgyen wrote:
Looks good. I like the double hole for the lanyard. I think the extension tubes would be better with the same knurling pattern through out.

I agree. It is an easy fix, but was told by Mr. Fang it would bring up cost. As it is now, we would be getting the 1x18650 base tube, then could presumably can order the extra tubes to extend the flashlight as an additional option. But I will keep this in mind. Trying to keep cost as low as possible.

 

ryansoh3 wrote:
AR coated glass Hold to ramp (log brightness scale, 2-sec pause on max and min) Memory mode for physical switch $20-30 is a very nice price for the light!

I love ramping modes as well! I will inquire about this, and see if it can be done as well as how much more, in both effort and cost it will add. I'm really trying to find a perfect balance of modes, that won't make it complicated to operate. Seems I will have to put alot more thought into how this will be implemented, and also make it usable.

As for the AR lens, I will ask and see how much more for it.

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zelee
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remove the fin and that stainless thingy on tail
other is like above,but if it can use 26650 will be a + from me Smile

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If we can get an at coated lens, ramping modes and neutral white ithink this light would be killer

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
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Add $5 to the price, before cutting or leaving something quality out.

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After checking out the Warsun website, this appears to be the MX900 with a stainless tail cap and then upgraded driver and having lost the dayglo green stripes on the extenders.

Myself, I would prefer the ET26 with maybe one extender, or none and a really hot 4 amp custom driver. It will run a 26650 or 18650 and then you wouldn’t have the hassle of Buck driver and serial batteries, just an easier mod freindly unit when one battery.

ET-26 is only 5mm thicker at battery tube so it is not a club. Head diameter is listed as 49mm, so just 1 mm bigger then the MX900.
What is the difference in Reflector depth between these 2 models?

It’s all good, I do not currently have any Warsuns and have been waiting for them to get some distribution, but I am all in.
Great to see a Mfg. willing to do a custom run that would appeal to it’s customers.

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blfdemigod wrote:
No PWM. Check! Shouldn’t be hard, as all it is is programming. Maybe 100%-30%-5%-moonlight?
I like this. I find that this makes a versatile driver. Honestly the Q-lite Rev A from intl outdoor is a good basic driver that I like a lot. I like it better than the standard Nanjg 105c because I can’t accidentally change groups to the blink modes- which I do quite regularly.
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Muto wrote:
After checking out the Warsun website, this appears to be the MX900 with a stainless tail cap and then upgraded driver and having lost the dayglo green stripes on the extenders. Myself, I would prefer the ET26 with maybe one extender, or none and a really hot 4 amp custom driver. It will run a 26650 or 18650 and then you wouldn't have the hassle of Buck driver and serial batteries, just an easier mod freindly unit when one battery. ET-26 is only 5mm thicker at battery tube so it is not a club. Head diameter is listed as 49mm, so just 1 mm bigger then the MX900. What is the difference in Reflector depth between these 2 models? It's all good, I do not currently have any Warsuns and have been waiting for them to get some distribution, but I am all in. Great to see a Mfg. willing to do a custom run that would appeal to it's customers. Thanks, Keith

You are correct, the BLFX is based on the MX-900 which was chosen for it's square knurling and good looks! Mr Fang will not make the driver go over 3 Amps due to Cree's data sheet stating 3.0 amps max. He is very firm with this and I see why he will not go above 3A. It brings potential and unwanted overheating/short lived driver and LED issues. So we decided to make the driver 3A max.

We are also in talks about the ET26 as well, being as it can do 26650 or 18650, but that would be for a later date. As of now, we are focused on getting the BLFX - 18650 flashlight designed and produced, and see how well it is received being 18650's are the most popular li-ion battery format for flashlights on this forum. The 26650 battery is not so widely used, or available, or affordable as the 18650 batteries are, that's why we chose the 18650 flashlight for now.

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blfdemigod wrote:
Mr Fang will not make the driver go over 3 Amps due to Cree’s data sheet stating 3.0 amps max. He is very firm with this and I see why he will not go above 3A. It brings potential and unwanted overheating/short lived driver and LED issues. So we decided to make the driver 3A max.

Hmm… does Mr. Fang not realize that we’re driving XM-L2’s at 6.5A on copper?

Do you know how moddable the driver is in terms of pushing the current to the max? Any photos of the driver would be greatly appreciated.

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I wonder why there are so many (7+?) differently designed patterns on thi light an no one is more used than one time?

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I think the bezel depth block the light thus reducing the output somewhat.. I agreed the tail cap just too much for me not to mention different color than the body is kind of turn me off from buying the light…

If anything I would like the ET26 or A60 with extender tube goes to production with 3A driver as it gives option to use different batteries and option to use the light as dual function to charge other device ( smart phones, Ipad..etc )

BTW with all my Warsun light.. why do they made the switch on the side the same function as the one at the bottom?
can they just make the bottom as power on or off and side switch as modes? just like convoy L4 or Yezel Y3 lights?

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Tail-cap lock out?
Will this accept longer batteries or flat tops?
Ramping would be a plus.
How about parasitic battery drain?
Have you considered a turbo mode with a timed step down?

Very interested & looking forward to this.

 

 

 

 

 
 
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i would like to be able to turn on the light with the forward/side switch. i think its already made this way, but just to be sure…or itll be a deal killer for me.

and having that momentary on is a plus for me also.

have mode memory, or somehow have access to highest mode when in off position. i dont like it when lights start on low mode, and you have to ramp up or change to higher modes.

maybe put a blue or green glow in the dark o ring on the bezel.

make sure the switches are not so spongy or too much play.

itll be nice to have different options for how hard we want the emitters driven.
some might like ours super hotrodded, like me…hahah.

oh…which warsun light is this anyways..the 900?
how many leds does it have?
and maybe a dedomed option might be nice hahah but i doubt he will do this.

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$20-$30 for a good quality light? i am in!

i have a newbie question.
i don’t have any side switch light.
can the side switch use with traditional driver like the Nanjg? or does it require a special driver? how does the side switch connect to the driver?

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flashination wrote:
Tail-cap lock out?
Will this accept longer batteries or flat tops?
Ramping would be a plus.
How about parasitic battery drain?
Have you considered a turbo mode with a timed step down?

Very interested & looking forward to this.

According to the OP, it has a forward clicky tailcap. I’m assuming that that means that the tailcap switch is used to turn the light on/off and if it’s off, there wouldn’t be any parasitic drain. If that’s the case, tailcap lockout would be redundant?

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Prometheus wrote:
$20-$30 for a good quality light? i am in!

i have a newbie question.
i don’t have any side switch light.
can the side switch use with traditional driver like the Nanjg? or does it require a special driver? how does the side switch connect to the driver?

There are two ways:

- It’s an “electronic” switch, i.e., only connected to some inputs on the driver and the driver detects the switch action. Or

- It’s a “mechanical” switch, i.e., breaks the electrical path between the battery + and -.

There are a few side switchers that have mechanical switches, but most of them would be “electronic” switches, I think.

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be nice to have a very low moonlight mode
to be able to tailstand

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What are the reflector dimensions?

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Non-stupid UI, NW led on copper, driven hard could make me buy one, otherwise I’ll have to pass since I already have too many flashlights…

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Stainless tailcap – color mismatch
Tailcap fins – very little functional
Tailcap cutout – i prefer none. Too aggressive in the wrong direction
Extension tube – knurling should be matching

X60 is better looking than MX900. Just retain the body and have a custom UI, 3A and cheap price tag.

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I’d like to avoid parasitic drain on the side switch….if they’re gonna do glo-rings, I say blue!! (match the side switch)

Also, Square cut threads would be nice and buttterryyyyy smooth.

As for the disco-modes…I’d prefer one that can be accessed fairly quickly (three quick presses?) The way I see it, disco modes are for self defense, and I don’t want any delay in utilizing it for such a purpose if it comes to it. I carry lights when I walk home late at night after class, and keep my “trigger finger” at the ready to switch it to disco if needed. It’s also handy when crossing street intersections that are unlit, or poorly lit from street lights. There’s no way you don’t see me!

Also, what freq would the strobe be set at? Something in the 10-15hz would be nice, as they are often considered to be highly effective for disorientation/nauseation….but i’m sure there are MANY out there who know more about this than me, and can give us an “ideal” frequency. I just want to be able to flash somebody, smack them in the head with the light if they’re too close, and make a run for it while they struggle for a moment to regain their composure.

as for driving over 3A…would he be willing to put in a timed turbo mode? something that automatically reverts down after a couple minutes? Seems like that might protect him, although I fully understand his reluctance to drive over cree’s data sheet.

also, will it be engraved with BLF at all?

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