22mm 16x 7135 driver for F13 flashlights - [released]

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WarHawk-AVG
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

I know nothing about designing PCB’s, but I really like the clean, elegant design of your board.  No spaghetti traces zig zagging around.  All are short and direct.


Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do
DayLighter
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ugh.. I for once will not want to push these light past 4.A for due to heat concern.. hehe.. this is one of those light that will cost you more for parts to upgrade than the light itself :bigsmile:

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

ohaya
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DayLighter wrote:
ugh.. I for once will not want to push these light past 4.A for due to heat concern.. hehe.. this is one of those light that will cost you more for parts to upgrade than the light itself :bigsmile:

I think that that (low initial cost for the light) is NOT something we should complain about?

wight
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ohaya wrote:
DayLighter wrote:
ugh.. I for once will not want to push these light past 4.A for due to heat concern.. hehe.. this is one of those light that will cost you more for parts to upgrade than the light itself :bigsmile:

I think that that (low initial cost for the light) is NOT something we should complain about?

Haha, good point.

DayLighter, you’ve also got a point. I didn’t make a 16*7135 driver because I thought it was a good idea to run the light at 5.6A/6.08A. I made it because I wanted a 22mm 7135 driver with the features this one has… and I just put as many 7135 as I could fit. It’s great that it turned out being 16* because that lets you put 8* all on one side if that’s what you want.

Populating all the spaces get’s way more useful if I was to implement what I wrote about over here. With 16* and 4 pins I think you miss a count in there, for example the 8x count: (1,2,3,4,5,6,7, _ ,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16). Anyway with a setup like that, which there is probably room for on this board, you can keep all your normal modes running at an actual regulated current instead of PWM (so you’d have improved dropout and efficiency I think) and you can set your turbo or strobe modes to use all of the 7135s. Maybe it makes more sense to do that with a big FET.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Cereal_killer
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First one built and running on the bench, waiting on glue to dry to assemble the light.

 photo 5C93CC02-DAC6-4766-85DF-0D70605256F6.jpg

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Ledsmoke
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Saaweet! How did I miss this thread alltogether?? Great work Wight! And sweet looking board Cereal_killer Smile Did you populate all the amc spaces or not? I'd love to hear how that host handles it if you did Wink

~ Ledsmoke ~

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Cereal_killer
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I didn’t, the host I’m using (not the F13) requires a thin 14mm MCPCB and a turned down Noctigon / sinkPAD is simply to thick to allow the head to screw far enough on to get the emitter into the reflector (an rii E21- balder SE2 clone with very strange reflector/pill design) so I’m only driving it at 3.04A. If I can get another light to take this board I’d love to fill one up with 16 chips, even stack some more if there’s room, imagine a 17-32x board that only takes a single layer of stacking.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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I have installed & tested this driver in a Gearbest Ultrafire F13. I populated it with 12×7135, 8 on the bottom and 4 on the top. I made sure to populate the space right next to the offtime cap so that we could see how tricky that got. As I mentioned earlier, the spacing of the 7135’s on top is such that the tabs miss the shelf, allowing the driver PCB to fully seat against the shelf.

I think that I intended for the LED+ / LED- vias to take 20AWG but they do not. 24AWG fits with room to spare. I may release a revision to address this, but there’s very little space left! Probably better to file down 20AWG if you want it to fit.

Sorry for the cellphone pics.




Now that I have built v015, I feel confident that the board is ready for prime time. I have revised the silkscreen for C1 and released v016. There are no functional changes from v015.

22mm 7135 v016

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

WarHawk-AVG
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Oh man…that is AWESOME!!!!

What firmware did you go with?

Absolutely stunned on the beauty of that build…a total artist!

wight
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Oh man…that is AWESOME!!!!

What firmware did you go with?

Absolutely stunned on the beauty of that build…a total artist!

I made a mistake with the firmware. I started with STAR_off_time_1.3.c. I disabled moon mode through the define (commented it out). I also reversed the if/then terms for Star 3 since I don’t solder stars and wanted H-L. Apparently I did something wrong because I ended up with L-H. Come to think of it I still don’t see my mistake. Oh well, I’ll take a closer look later. Maybe I shorted the pin on the MCU.

Thanks for the complements on the build. It needs a tall battery spring, I started with a Nanjg 105c spring and it was way too short. I switched to the D-type spring (5/8/8/0.8mm) from IOS and it was barely enough. I’ll have to install a tall post I think.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

HarleyQuin
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I have to chime in, this one is awesome.

Somehow I lost track of it in the process, just stumbled over it through the oshpark thread.
This is like a one-that-fits-all driver, including the BLF add-ons off-time memory and zener mod.
Thanks for that one.

Errr… would you mind sharing the brd-file if you happen to have one?
I need that driver slightly larger (24mm) and would adapt it. But I have no software to alter the gerber files, just Eagle here.
Tbh, I’m thinkin’ of some other minor tweak 0:) (12× 7135 suits me well, that might give room for a larger spring base to fit IOS type A, B and D)

Anyway, thanks for this great layout.
HQ

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Cereal_killer
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Welcome back wight.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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HarleyQuin wrote:
I have to chime in, this one is awesome.

Somehow I lost track of it in the process, just stumbled over it through the oshpark thread.
This is like a one-that-fits-all driver, including the BLF add-ons off-time memory and zener mod.
Thanks for that one.

Errr… would you mind sharing the brd-file if you happen to have one?
I need that driver slightly larger (24mm) and would adapt it. But I have no software to alter the gerber files, just Eagle here.
Tbh, I’m thinkin’ of some other minor tweak 0:) (12× 7135 suits me well, that might give room for a larger spring base to fit IOS type A, B and D)

Anyway, thanks for this great layout.
HQ

Glad you like it, PM sent.

Cereal_killer wrote:
Welcome back wight.
Thanks Cereal_killer. I’m still really not “in the saddle” at the moment. I’m really just treading water waiting to get motivated ;-). I was losing steam and right as I got my new scope and a box of supplies from Mouser I just stalled completely. Sad Hopefully something will click in my head pretty soon and I’ll sit down and get a 20mm buck driver knocked out, verify that it works as expected w/ the Attiny installed, release that, and then refocus on the 17mm stuff. EDIT: having spares on hand is a key part of my motivation process, and I’ve got that in spades. I think I bought 10x worth of parts from Mouser plus a few alternative parts. And I think I’ve got 20 of those QX5241 chips on hand, so I’m ready to fry some stuff as soon as I can get that switch flipped in my brain.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Gj
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wight wrote:
I have installed & tested this driver in a Gearbest Ultrafire F13. I populated it with 12x7135, 8 on the bottom and 4 on the top. I made sure to populate the space right next to the offtime cap so that we could see how tricky that got. As I mentioned earlier, the spacing of the 7135's on top is such that the tabs miss the shelf, allowing the driver PCB to fully seat against the shelf. I think that I intended for the LED+ / LED- vias to take 20AWG but they do not. 24AWG fits with room to spare. I may release a revision to address this, but there's very little space left! Probably better to file down 20AWG if you want it to fit. Sorry for the cellphone pics.

Now that I have built v015, I feel confident that the board is ready for prime time. I have revised the silkscreen for C1 and released v016. There are no functional changes from v015. "*22mm 7135 v016*":https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/SMkMEXha[/quote]

Does 22AWG fit?

wight
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Gj wrote:

Does 22AWG fit?

Sorry Gj, I don’t have any 22AWG. Where are you buying 22AWG?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Gj
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DavidEF
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I’m amazed at what several of the guys on this forum are doing with designing and building all these custom drivers! I’m going to need a driver for one of the projects I’m working on, but I don’t know what size or even shape it will be. But, anyway, this one looks awesome! Great job, wight!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Tom E
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wight - this is awesome btw... A 20 mm AtTiny based buck would be pretty awsome too!

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I hear that Alex, unfourtinately I don’t have the option to take a break with how my business has evolved…

Btw I have a new 2-4 cell buck driver based on the MAX16824 chip. Output is selectable to around 8A (for 3-9v emitters/strings) via sense resistor. PIC controlled but it could be easily adapted to AVR (with the addition of a vdivide circuit for batt monitoring and a few cap changes). Very stable operation with the inducer I selected, much easier on 3v emitters than the HX-1175b’s at high currents and with pic Very low component count so cheap to produce. I’m working on a larger one initially, hopefully I can get it to a 20mm single board (not sure tho) or a 17mm double stack <12mm tall.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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wight wrote:
HarleyQuin wrote:
I have to chime in, this one is awesome.

Somehow I lost track of it in the process, just stumbled over it through the oshpark thread.
This is like a one-that-fits-all driver, including the BLF add-ons off-time memory and zener mod.
Thanks for that one.

Errr… would you mind sharing the brd-file if you happen to have one?
I need that driver slightly larger (24mm) and would adapt it. But I have no software to alter the gerber files, just Eagle here.
Tbh, I’m thinkin’ of some other minor tweak 0:) (12× 7135 suits me well, that might give room for a larger spring base to fit IOS type A, B and D)

Anyway, thanks for this great layout.
HQ

Glad you like it, PM sent.

Cereal_killer wrote:
Welcome back wight.
Thanks Cereal_killer. I’m still really not “in the saddle” at the moment. I’m really just treading water waiting to get motivated ;-). I was losing steam and right as I got my new scope and a box of supplies from Mouser I just stalled completely. Sad Hopefully something will click in my head pretty soon and I’ll sit down and get a 20mm buck driver knocked out, verify that it works as expected w/ the Attiny installed, release that, and then refocus on the 17mm stuff. EDIT: having spares on hand is a key part of my motivation process, and I’ve got that in spades. I think I bought 10x worth of parts from Mouser plus a few alternative parts. And I think I’ve got 20 of those QX5241 chips on hand, so I’m ready to fry some stuff as soon as I can get that switch flipped in my brain.
When you do…tell me how you did it!

I think I might get testosterone shots or something…so dang demotivated…

I need someone to put on a DI hat and yell at me to get my butt moving as of late…sux, so tired, so moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…ARRRRGH

I also am eagerly awaiting the 20mm buck driver, I have one of those 3x “C” Defiant flashlights, could definitely use a good driver and stack some 26650’s w/ spacer in the badboy Smile

wight
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
When you do…tell me how you did it!

I think I might get testosterone shots or something…so dang demotivated…

I need someone to put on a DI hat and yell at me to get my butt moving as of late…sux, so tired, so moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…ARRRRGH

I also am eagerly awaiting the 20mm buck driver, I have one of those 3x “C” Defiant flashlights, could definitely use a good driver and stack some 26650’s w/ spacer in the badboy Smile

Will do ;-).

DI hat?

IIRC 26650’s wont fit in a DST, and boring it removes the tail threads. I think the normal solution is to permanently attach the tail after that and load the batteries from the front of the tube?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Cereal_killer
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DI = drill instructor.

Wight I’m searching for your post on calculating voltage divide resistors for multi-cell Zener drivers….

Edit:‘4wheelr found it – link below.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

ImA4Wheelr
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Here you go. Wight just linked me to it yesterday.

wight
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So it’s taken me a while to post this, but another member pointed out a mistake. A careful examination shows that the 7135-A markings are clearly wrong in v016. At least one 7135 in both the “A” and “B” groups is required for the driver to function, I had the markings for A mixed up for two components. I have updated a few other things as well.

Changes:

  • Updated 7135-A silkscreen to reflect actual “A” positions.
  • Updated silkscreen with boring name: “A22-7135”. Added silkscreen for “ZENER” and “OTC”. Added polarity markings for D1.
  • Moved my marking from top to bottom.
  • Changed Zener to correct (more narrow) SOD-123 footprint rather than an incorrect wide (SMA?) footprint.
  • Revised several traces and vias to correct design rule violations!
  • Voltage divider now feeds directly from Vbat, please switch to 22k resistor or adjust your LVP values in firmware.
  • Added an emergency escape route for those swapping over a Nanjg-105c. There is a scrapable solder jumper to allow the use of a Nanjg-105c diode and 19.1k resistor.
  • Fixed all the mistakes I made while doing the above stuff. Wink

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/FQYMvlPm

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

nitro
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Very nice i just ordered a few boards to try out my new hot air re-flow station

wight
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And now I see for some reason I never marked that the 7135 next to R2 must be populated for LVP to work? Ugh! Well now we know. :~

Thanks nitro!

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Mike C
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Wouldn’t you be able to squeeze the off time cap in to the left under LED+ with a little redesign? Flashing might be difficult with the off time cap in the way?

wight
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Mike C wrote:
Wouldn’t you be able to squeeze the off time cap in to the left under LED+ with a little redesign? Flashing might be difficult with the off time cap in the way?
I measured in Eagle, the off time cap should not block the clip. I have >8mm of vertical clearance overall for the clip. The top left 7135 and the Zener are both a little closer than I would like, but I’m pretty sure a stock Pomona clip will fit. A shaved Pomona clip should fit for sure (stock they are very wide compared to the actual chip, 1.4mm wider IIRC).

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

hank
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> moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…
Winter blues?
I’ve found cet.org has a good self-evaluation for timing bright lights; and a $25 dawn simulator is a great help in our household

But back on this board, is CK or anyone else building them?
I melted the dome off a Nichia-on-Noctigon (my first mod of an F13) after less than 20 minutes’ total use, and I’ve been wondering whether it was just cooked and a driver swap would help before I replace that.

wight
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I’ve been thinking of doing a few to sell.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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