With request of a few fellow BLF’ers and authorization from Mattaus I took his BLD20DD and more or less expanded the ground ring, added a capacitor on star 4 (for the off time firmware) and de-stopped the VIA’s everything else is completely the way Mattaus built it
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/D2dJbbBm
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Corrected for the correct board revision
Thank you!
The low mode should be lower.
Now..imagine all those UltraFire F13’s that can become powerhouses
And thank Mattaus…he is the master…I am just the “apprentice”
Love it. I’ll get a set just because, already got my need taken care of with wright’s adapter but I’ll still get a set just for having the off-time cap pad on the bench for FW testing.
I think I’ll try to add a dip switch to the cap so I don’t have to desolder to flash.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Poor Rufus can’t keep up with all the new driver builds…once a good driver is made, it’s really easy to just make them a little bigger
Ordered 3... Being untested, sure hope they do work, but seem low risk. Thanks!!
I just placed an order for this, and a couple other BLF creations. My first Oshpark order! I really should have ordered them earlier since my hot air rework station arrived today, and I don't have many things to use it with aside from reflowing some LED's.
The low mode should be lower.
Allright! Thats it, now you’ve gone and done it WarHawk. Now I’m gonna have to buy a hot air rework station and start putting these drivers together myself. Thanks alot.
One of us! One of us!
Digging my heels, kicking and screaming“no, no, no!” I can be a bit obstinate at times. I have no intention of trying to put together even a small percentage of the project boards. I just wanted them all in one place and I’m vain enough to have wanted a sticky of my very own even if I did little to earn it.
By the way, is it ready to post as a beta, or what?
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Ready to go boss…no change from Mattaus’s build…I just made it 22mm and added the “off time memory” capacitor pads
I’ve been making due with an iron but he made me finally buy my own the other day too. I think he’s workin for ‘em.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
I’m pretty good with an Iron and could probably get it done but I’m afraid it may bring forth one too many curse words.
What model of rework station did you get?
The Yihua 858D, $54 from amazon. I actually reflow the resistor / diode side on my glass cook-top then just have to iron the MCU & FET on the top.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
You can hot air reflow both sides, the PCB keeps the components on the other side from getting too hot and re-melting and/or surface tension holds the components on if the solder does melt
I hot air both sides with this: ebay/stampabilities-heat-embossing-gun, about $20 - $22 from several places. Got my first BLF22DD's coming - just shipped from OSHPark today.
Thanks for the ideas, Tom E’s suggestion seems like the cheapest way, I wouldn’t have found that on my own. But I’m looking for an excuse to upgrade my soldering iron also, for a few dollars more than the Yihua 858D I’ve found a couple 2 in 1 units that seem to fit the bill.
Cereal_killer Is there any particular reason why I should go with the Yihua 858D such as build quality, etc? I’m asking because I’m sure you have researched it or got a recommendation from someone before making your choice.
$65.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-IN-1-SMART-HOT-AIR-REWORK-SOLDERING-IRON-STATION-898D-/220799518801?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3368ad4851
$59.96 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2in1-SMD-Soldering-Rework-Station-Hot-Air-Iron-852D-5Tips-ESD-PLCC-BGA-/151333636298?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233c3008ca
I had bad luck with a bottom dollar hot-air / iron combo unit like that. It was an 852D+ clone marked as 952D or something. After <6mon the iron stopped heating consistently. I switched to the Hakko FX-888 for my iron and haven’t looked back.
IIRC I later learned that Aoyue was a decent brand among the cheap ones. I have no personal experience and I’m a little foggy on that, so I could be wrong.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I’m using a Yihua 937D iron with several different tips that works well now but read E5 on the display intermittently and wasn’t heating well. It turns out there was a cold joint in the wand and once fixed(the last time I used my old 20w pencil) I haven’t looked back. Not sure if I’ll go with air or oven first if I go reflow at all.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I got my boards. Anyone build these up yet?
I'm still waiting for boards and chips. My panels are still in production.
The low mode should be lower.
This is what I bought and use: http://www.kd5ssj.com/solderpaste. Highly recommend the 21 Ga needle. I use the 23, and it's a pain. It's a small amount but you don't need much. By the time you use it up, it will probably be expired. Recommended by a friend - this guy is a hobbyist - may take a few days to get it shipped, depending... I bought mine in Sep 2013 and probably half left, though I've used it a lot more lately with the OSHPark boards.
I get $3.55 shipping, total of $9.55 for 1 paste syringe, 1 21 Ga needle.
You think it might be worth getting stencils made? It shouldn't be a big deal for this driver, but with the Meld drivers I think I'd going to want all the help I can get.
The low mode should be lower.
corrected OP w/ correct OSHPark link and images
Thanx!!
So I have got one of these puppies piggybacked to courui amd Richard put it together with electronic switch filmware so I solder one side of switch to pad 2 and the other to pad – ? I am only getting light if I press and hold e switch no modes ? What’s wrong?
Not sure whether pin 2 or pin 3 that is the button for momentary firmware?
Checking
I can be either pin 2 or pin 3…do you know what firmware RMM put on the driver for you?
I’m assuming just the standard raw itch filmware.
ask him…verify to be sure
double check your connections
on a momentary it should work, unless something is shorted
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