BLF17DD Info Thread - Reference

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Tom E
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BLF17DD Info Thread - Reference

This is an attempt to keep tech ref info on the BLF17DD driver(s) together in one spot, hopefully easier to reference this way.

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 Note: Post #124 is a great write-up by RMM on voltage divider calculations

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As of July 12th, 2014:

The new improved 17mm FET based driver here: OSHPark BLF17DD V1.0

It's matching parts list: DigiKey shared cart- BLF-17DD & BLF-20DD Qty 1 (includes a working MOSFET now!)

Post #1045 here in the big OSHPark thread from comfychair has pretty good details on this upgrade. Basically, it's an alternate solution to using the 130 ohm resistor to reduce a voltage spike  flatten the peak. Actually this new CAP method works so well, it opens up the possibility of using other FET's.

Post #1077 here in the big OSHPark thread from comfychair explains where/how to do the zener mod on this board, as well as explain where/how to do the off time memory CAP mod.

(Pictures to be added here. Not ordered yet - hope the design is settling down for now...)

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As of June 15th, 2014: (this is obsoleted now, but still applied for those with the old rev boards)

There are now two version of the BLF17DD: standard and zener diode mod version:

PCB link standard: OSH Park BLF17DD Rev 4 (link not working now - it's been removed to allow no more buys)

PCB link for Zener diode version: OSH Park BLF17DD Zener Rev 2

You don't need the zener version to do the zener mod - it can be done to the standard BLF17DD as well, just little more difficult.

 

Notes:

 

Sample View:

This is a Rev 2 or 3 populated, first top (inside) and second bottom (spring side) showing the parts positioned correctly. Note: I'm using a 100 ohm resistor in position R3, but a 130 ohm should be used for R3 -- it's a better value (100 ohm is borderline). Here:

 

Detail view of the diode positioning:

 

Sample Assembly:

This is the solder paste I use:

This shows the application of it:

This is the placed parts on to the wet solder paste:

I use a hobbyist hot air gun which is low air speed, so pretty safe to do reflows. Takes like 30 secs to 1 minute but works well. After the reflow:

Again, this is showing parts position for the reflow. This sample is for a zener mod. Note the 200 ohm resistor (2000) is used in place of the diode:

This is after the reflow, and shows the Zener Diode soldered onto the side of the cap:

Detailed view of the diode. The marked end of the diode is on the opposite side from ground:

Edited by: Tom E on 01/03/2016 - 07:33
bushwhacked
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I’ve got a few of these to build, thanks for posting detail pictures. I would have had to scroll through a few posts to figure out what goes where and zoom in on some pictures.

This is going to help me a lot. Thanks, and thanks to all who worked on these and figured them out then shared it.

P60dropins.com (just a redirect for now)

Tom E
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Hoping it will help. I've had to do the same thing - lots of searching. I'll try to cram as much useful info in the OP as I can... I'm still updating it.

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Thanks Tom. This is what I needed a week ago. A picture is worth a thousand words.

I might add, these components are small. To check your Zener/resistor installation with a DMM, one end of the Zener should have continuity to ground, and the end with the “D” should have continuity to the 200 ohm resistor (2000) at the end facing the outer edge of the driver board.

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+1, thanks Tom, for this thread, for some people, like me, it helps because I'm not that much into electronics, so what is obvious for the guru's is not always obvious to me. And I do like to use this driver, a lot.

One question, the non-zener diode version, those are, even apart from the FET, not exactly the components that can be recovered from a 105C (I miss the diode labeled S1), what is the difference of this driver with comfy's FET-modded 105C that started the developement of this board?

Tom E
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djozz wrote:

+1, thanks Tom, for this thread, for some people, like me, it helps because I'm not that much into electronics, so what is obvious for the guru's is not always obvious to me. And I do like to use this driver, a lot.

One question, the non-zener diode version, those are, even apart from the FET, not exactly the components that can be recovered from a 105C (I miss the diode labeled S1), what is the difference of this driver with comfy's FET-modded 105C that started the developement of this board?

Only the difference should be the 100 ohm resistor that's been added. Don't think anyone knows for sure why it was needed on these BLF boards, but in some case (most?) it prevents flaky mode changing I believe. The diode should be identical to the one from the Nanjg/Qlite boards. It's an SOD-323 (digikey listing and datasheet - ZLLS410.pdf) but labeled 41.

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nice!

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Thanks for breaking this out into a separate discussion.  Is anyone else getting and empty digikey cart with the current link?  

 

Edit: comfychair's link works.  Thanks comfychair!

The low mode should be lower.

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Great thread Tom. TY!

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

comfychair
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http://www.digikey.com/classic/Ordering/AddPart.aspx?WT.z_cid=Shared_Cart is not the link for the shared cart, it's the URL after you've clicked the shared link and parts have been added, you need to use the shortened link from the pop-up box. Or right-click/copy the link as given in the Oshpark projects thread.

http://75.65.123.78/screenshot.25-04-2014%2001.07.03.jpg

 

Parts list for 17 & 20DD, for 10 drivers: shared cart- 17&20DD, qty 10

Save yourself some trouble and order the resistors in batches of 100 at a time, it's only $1.22/100. The 19.1k can be used for both the voltage divider and the gate pulldown (R4). There's no reason not to use R4, anything from 10k to 20k is too high to have any negative effect on the signal to the FET, but will make sure there's no residual charge left at the gate during the time when the MCU has commanded the FET 'off'.

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In response to your question on the R3 value, I believe 100ohm is about the bare minimum and 150 is to high. Your not noticing any ill effects with that one, skipping modes or not switching when it should? Have you tested it with both physical clickies and momentary button setup’s?

I’d be more than happy to drop a few 130ohm 0805’s in a regular mail envelope for you, I have a strip of 1000. PM me your address if I can hook you up.

Your soldering is extremely clean. I use an iron so I get a good amount of extra solder everywhere when I do it, yours look very professional!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Awesome Tom… now I dont have to search further, excellent details too Beer Beer

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

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The cart link in the Oshpark thread seems to work.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

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Tom E
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Cereal_killer wrote:
In response to your question on the R3 value, I believe 100ohm is about the bare minimum and 150 is to high. Your not noticing any ill effects with that one, skipping modes or not switching when it should? Have you tested it with both physical clickies and momentary button setup's? I'd be more than happy to drop a few 130ohm 0805's in a regular mail envelope for you, I have a strip of 1000. PM me your address if I can hook you up. Your soldering is extremely clean. I use an iron so I get a good amount of extra solder everywhere when I do it, yours look very professional!

Sorry - been out all day - wifey and I had a car accident this eve - she was driving... No one hurt, but more like a strong fender bender.

I do have qty 100 130 ohm resistor on order from yesterday, from California, so hoping later half of this week, so I'll be set. Thanks for the offer though Wink.

Haven't noticed any issues - only used/tested in a conventional reverse clickie. Actually I should have cleaned the board with iso. alcohol, but didn't. The hot air reflow method is great! Love it! The heat gun I use is cheap, like under $10-$20 maybe? It's a "StampAbilities Heat Embossing Gun". This is one example: ebay-stampabilities-heat-embossing-gun. A friend had several he uses for small PC board projects in hobby rocketry and other side-work projects, and he gave me one.

I gotta fix that link. Thanx comfy!! Just tried to copy the link RufusbDuck had... HHmm...

Oops, updated again from comfy (includes 130 ohm resistors) I updated the DigiKey parts list link in the OP - please try again, thanx!!

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How low do you adjust the air on your hot air reflow? Doesn’t it blow all the components off the board?

Tom E
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
How low do you adjust the air on your hot air reflow? Doesn't it blow all the components off the board?

I adjust the distance I hold it from the board - this gun has no adjustments at all. I was leary of this, but why my friend loves using these things is it's pretty low speed on the air, unlike conventional hot air guns. In the few boards I did, it happened only once on the diode which is the smallest high sitting SMD, but only happened because I did not have enough solder on the pad. All I did was add solder paste, push it in good, then it worked fine.

Ouchyfoot
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I guess I should experiment with the different sized nozzles. I’ve only ever done one component at at time, and hold it in place with tweezers. With full air, it’s soldered down in seconds.

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Turn the fan down and the heat up. I use the fan on around #4 and the temp at 310-330, I don't know what the actual temp is but nothing melts but the solder and nothing gets blown off.

Ouchyfoot
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Are you still using the YIHUA like mine?

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Yes, 858D.

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2008D

Tom E
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Ohh - I do all parts on a side at once. I use gentle circular patterns with the heat gun, until all solder contacts turn nice and shiny. This embossing heat gun is very simple - I've even used it for LED reflows. Think he bought it at Michaels, here: michaels.com/surebonder-proheater-tool, but it's labeled different now.

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I have the 858D as well…I set mine at 300, lowest air setting, when I start I start farther back, let the heat soften the flux in the solder, it makes it tacky and the components don’t blow off the pads, once nice and warm close in to reflow the individual components

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I like to make sure the FET is placed towards the center, trying to allow the positive lead some room to be away from the edge of the board. I know this can lead to issues with the FET being too close to the ATiny to allow a re-flash, but I’ve trimmed that side of my clip to make it skinny to facilitate this. I don’t usually flash on the board anyway, but like to allow the possibility to change firmware later

By keeping that positive LED pad clear it’s easier to keep it from grounding out on a pill. I also like to cut away the shelf in that area on the pill to make sure it doesn’t still contact the actual pad. I do NOT want a 30A capable cell shorting out in my light!

I’ve used about 25 of these FET drivers so far and am loving the power level they bring to the table. The hot cells like a 20R or C4 give full blown output, control can be found through use of PF’s or other less potent cell chemistry, enabling the user to limit a 6A+ light to 4A or so through proper cell selection. Simple as changing batteries. Wink

One last thing I’ve started doing is to apply coverage of critical components with a coating of Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. This is like extending the silicone sleeve to ensure contact cannot be made, thus further easing my mind on possible shorts and adding some support to the LED leads on the board. A very thin layer of AATA is easy insurance anywhere something might possibly touch.

Tom E
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All good points Dale! Yes - I tried to position the FET more to the left and up (in the pics), but it slid downward when the solder paste liquified - probably should hand solder the FET to better control it's final set position... I gotta incorporate all of these points in the OP somewhere...  Thanx!

You may have done the most qty of these boards than anybody, including Richard.

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You need to watch out for a short from LED+ to the pad under the FET, too. Not worth it to protect against a short in one spot if it causes one in another. I make sure the FET has the pad well covered and then solder the LED+ wire right up against the FET body, if the edge of the pad on the board and the edge of the pad on the FET line up that leaves plenty of clear space out to the + pad.

edit: and if the pill needs work for clearance to the + wire's solder pad, then the pill needs work. Lots of pills have a far wider step that is needed.

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I mount my FET all the way to the right to allow room for the clip, I just finished up 10 of these and I think this method is about the best (the best I’ve found so far anyway), the 17dd is siliconed in place so theres no chance of a short to the host board from the components on the bottom, power and ground are pulled threw the connections on the top there.

 photo D94FFA04-EEC2-4C76-A6E8-DEA1A285239E.jpg
Ignore the extra wire there, its for hooking up a power supply for testing and is removed before buttoning it up. I cant wait to run out of these old 17’s and order the new revision to make it easier to hook up the switch wire. Also note how I do the GND connection with a piece of braid directly to the FET source leg, I also scrape away the mask around the leg so its got more copper to solder to.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Richard has made far more than I have, FAR more!

Yeah Comfy, valid point there. By moving the FET away from the positive LED pad it also ensures the LED negative out that covers a large portion of the bottom of the FET cannot touch the positive pad. Lot of high amperage bits on this small board!

CK, all good points there as well for piggybacking. When I piggyback these I like to use Teflon coated wires for the power to the BLF board and double Teflon wires for ground. This gives me 3 very sturdy legs holding the BLF board away from contact, allowing it to float as it were. With the double wires attaching ground, it’s ground supply is ample. I’ll make note of using the ground leg of the FET though, good point that.

Edit: By the way Tom, in the pics above the FET needs to move to the Right and up, towards the MCU and away from the LED + pad. Sometimes I re-flow this side of the board using a solder paste mask from Texas Pyro. Then hand solder the other side. While I always use the mask for the FET side, sometimes I just use the soldering iron to make the contacts one at a time in order to not have to use the stove top in the kitchen for one driver. I have a 6” round 1/8” thick 304SS plate that I put on the glass induction element, re-flow on top of that at a 4 1/2 setting then remove to a 3” cube of 6061 for quick cooling. The tiny diode and the capacitor are the most tedious when soldering with an iron, but then I’m using the big round/oval bevel tip as well. lol And no magnification.

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I've read and looked at the OP now a couple of times. The way you have laid out your pictures the content in them along with parts lists and a little description on whats being done has really given me the urge to give this a go. There are lots of other threads similar to this out there but this just seems right. Thanks Tom E. 

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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Thanks for making the thread Tom E.

Have anyone found a way to get rid of the whine in the middle modes now? Ive just been using STAR firmware that you get from RMM. I thought comfychair had found a way to get rid of the whine on the SRK BLF DD driver, but there is a jungle of information out there about these drivers now.

If these could become 100% silent in all modes that would be great. Id even take low/slow PWM over whine.

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

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Use fast-PWM. There's no reason to use phase correct anymore.

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