review: L3 Illumination L10C (Nichia 219B version)

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Quality
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I know what you mean. I lost interest in the L08 when I saw how big it was. The only reason I would ever use AAA instead of AA is because of the smaller size.

Once that’s out of the equation we’re just left with an inferior light for no good reason.

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Wait…so if we take away the purpose of the light, it has no purpose?

Makes sense.

Quality
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Lol is that really how you read that or are you just ribbing me?

Assuming you weren’t kidding, when the AAA version of this light is not appreciably smaller (not to mention the regulation/runtime getting butchered) there is no reason to get the L08 for me.

But I’m sure you were just kidding.

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Quality wrote:
Lol is that really how you read that or are you just ribbing me?

Assuming you weren’t kidding, when the AAA version of this light is not appreciably smaller (not to mention the regulation/runtime getting butchered) there is no reason to get the L08 for me.

But I’m sure you were just kidding.


Yes, playing. It was purely based on words without reference to the lights themselves.
Mr Floppy
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Oh, also, it seems that the newest 2014 batch of non-clicky L10-219s now use the 219B emitter. I just discovered that yesterday, and it was a pleasant surprise. They probably won’t be very available until old L10 stock is cleared out though.

Oh really? I still prefer the 219A. I hope Jake keeps the 219A’s, or at least put the older ones aside for separate purchase. I wonder if the L08 219’s are A’s or B’s? They may have a bit of stock left over

wolf359
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Nice looking light, but i would have prefered keeping the twisty head for selecting modes and a forward clicky for on/off. Like an improved version of the Fenix E11, ideal for the none flashoholic family members and as gifts to friends.

hatman
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Thanks for the fine review.

Does the clip come already attached?

Is there any way to make the light start on high instead of low?

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wolf359, I would have preferred it stay a twisty too. I find twisties easier to use and they’re silent and they tend to last longer.

hatman, the answers are yes and no. The clip comes attached, but there is no way to make it start on high instead of low.

I’d also kind of prefer if the medium mode could be a little lower. Maybe 20lm with longer runtime instead of 30lm. The TN T10T gets really good run times (~17 or 18 hours) on its 20lm mode, which makes it more usable as a primary mode instead of just an occasional extra. The L3 L10 gets about 7 or 8 hours on medium though, according to selfbuilt’s tests, so I don’t use medium as often. Both are unusually good efficiency, but I would prefer to cut the output to 2/3rds and get twice the runtime. This would also make the mode spacing a little more even, with roughly a factor of 6 between low and med and the same factor of 6 between med and high… instead of 8 and 4.

wolf359
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ThruNite T10 is a nice light but the silver cap just puts me off, the lack of knurling to aid in turning one handed is another negative for me. I did see in another thread someone attached a Fenix E12 head to the T10 body that looked good.

I still have a stack of Fenix E11’s that i still use 4 x MKI and 5 x MKII, i use to give the E11 and a eneloop 4 pack and a charger as a gift alot. Bought 1 x E12 tried it disliked it gave it to my boss, who i also dislike.

When i heard the L10 was to have a clicky i thought great, but my hopes where crushed. The search goes on.

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wolf359 wrote:
ThruNite T10 is a nice light but the silver cap just puts me off, the lack of knurling to aid in turning one handed is another negative for me. I did see in another thread someone attached a Fenix E12 head to the T10 body that looked good.

I still have a stack of Fenix E11’s that i still use 4 x MKI and 5 x MKII, i use to give the E11 and a eneloop 4 pack and a charger as a gift alot. Bought 1 x E12 tried it disliked it gave it to my boss, who i also dislike.

When i heard the L10 was to have a clicky i thought great, but my hopes where crushed. The search goes on.


It’s hard to find the perfect EDC, especially since everyone has a different idea what that means. I hope you find it!

I don’t really care for the aluminum T10 either, but the T10S and T10T are nice. I don’t find that the lack of knurling is an issue for twisty operation; the grooves on the head are plenty grippy.

As for gift lights, I try to get a variety so I can sort of tailor each one to the person receiving it. I haven’t chosen anyone for my extra L10s yet, but they’ll be for relatively special gifts since they’re one of my favorites.

If you want a combination twisty+clicky in one light, you might be searching a long time… they’re rare. The original L10 is a great twisty though, if twisty-only is okay. And the L10C is a good clicky too, if clicky-only is okay.

hatman
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Is the L10C a good light to gift to non-flashaholics, who won’t be using rechargeables?….How does the output with an AA compare to that with an Eneloop? (Apologies, if I missed a comparison on an earlier post…….)

Quality
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hatman wrote:
Is the L10C a good light to gift to non-flashaholics, who won’t be using rechargeables?….How does the output with an AA compare to that with an Eneloop? (Apologies, if I missed a comparison on an earlier post…….)

I would say it is. It has regulated output at all levels even with an alkaline. I would suggest getting the 3 mode for a non-flashaholic though since they likely won’t make use of the moonlight mode. Refer to selfbuilt’s review of the L10 for runtime charts with alkalines (they are the same as the L10c).

wolf359
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Klarus P1A is my current great hope for my twisty/clicky flashlight ordered 1 x P1A and 1 x P2A to see what they are like.

(mini) Review: Klarus P1A
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7596

CPF review mentions it is on the larger heavy side but you cann’t have not everything

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wolf359 wrote:
Klarus P1A is my current great hope for my twisty/clicky flashlight ordered 1 x P1A and 1 x P2A to see what they are like.

Wow, that’s big. I have 1×18650 lights smaller than the P1A.

Looks like it uses a forward clicky for activation and a head twist to toggle between high and low. Can’t turn it on using just the head though. If that’s a design you like, you might want to consider an EagleTac D25A. It’s quite a bit smaller, has both higher and lower modes, and has several emitter choices. The UI is very similar (tighten head for highest mode), except it uses a reverse clicky instead of forward clicky.

wolf359
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slimmer the light the more it costs :bigsmile:
Klarus P1A £25.80 / $44.09
EagleTac D25A MINI £46.87 / $80.09

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Wow, I’ve never seen a D25A for that much. My titanium one was about $64 IIRC, and my aluminum XM-L2 one was $36. Both were the clicky model though (which usually costs more than the mini), since the twisty model doesn’t have a moon mode.

wolf359
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ToyKeeper take a look at the ThruNite Saber 2014

Operation:

Turn the head counter clock wise all the way to tighten the head to the body,

the light will stay on at the function lastused.Turn the head loose by one quarter of a circle,

the light will stay off, if the head is tightened immediately back, the light will change modes in the order

below:Firefly – Low – High every time the head is loosened and tightened immediately.

LED:CreeXP-G2 LED with a lifespan of 20+years of run time

⦁ Three output mode:

AA battery: High(169lumen,1.5hours),Low (9lumen,39hours).Firefly(0.09lumen,147hours). CR123 battery: High(251lumen,1.8hours), Low(22Lumen,13hours), firefly(0.09lumen,195hours)

⦁ Memory function to stay at any one of the 3 modes.

⦁ Regulated current for smooth consistent strong output.

⦁ Max output : 169lumen (1*1.5V AA battery)

251lumen (1*CR123 battery)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu2FkbvW7Ok

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Yeah, I’m familiar with the Saber. I don’t really like it. The T10S / T10T is the only Thrunite EDC-sized model I’ve ever liked. Just a matter of personal taste though, and I still have complaints about the T10S / T10T.

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wolf359 wrote:
ToyKeeper take a look at the ThruNite Saber 2014

Operation:

Turn the head counter clock wise all the way to tighten the head to the body,

the light will stay on at the function lastused.Turn the head loose by one quarter of a circle,

the light will stay off, if the head is tightened immediately back, the light will change modes in the order

below:Firefly – Low – High every time the head is loosened and tightened immediately.

LED:CreeXP-G2 LED with a lifespan of 20+years of run time

⦁ Three output mode:

AA battery: High(169lumen,1.5hours),Low (9lumen,39hours).Firefly(0.09lumen,147hours). CR123 battery: High(251lumen,1.8hours), Low(22Lumen,13hours), firefly(0.09lumen,195hours)

⦁ Memory function to stay at any one of the 3 modes.

⦁ Regulated current for smooth consistent strong output.

⦁ Max output : 169lumen (1*1.5V AA battery)

251lumen (1*CR123 battery)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu2FkbvW7Ok

that is a nice little offering. Love the 2 bodies. Thanks for the links.

hatman
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Mine is disappointing.

Out of the box, the clickie is defective and only works when it wants to.

Using eneloops, the light isn’t very powerful — the Xeno Nichia is brighter, just as an example. And I really dislike that it only turns on low.

The clip is good-looking, like the L10C itself, but seems light-weight and I lack confidence in it.

Sorry to say, that’s exactly how I feel about my experience with the L10C.

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hatman wrote:
Mine is disappointing.

Out of the box, the clickie is defective and only works when it wants to.

Using eneloops, the light isn’t very powerful — the Xeno Nichia is brighter, just as an example. And I really dislike that it only turns on low.

The clip is good-looking, like the L10C itself, but seems light-weight and I lack confidence in it.

Sorry to say, that’s exactly how I feel about my experience with the L10C.


Thanks for adding your thoughts. It’s really unfortunate that you got one with a flaky switch. Are you going to try to get a replacement?

I agree the clip feels a bit weak, definitely near the weak end of the spectrum as far as clips go. It should work fine for some things, but it’d need to be stronger for a really secure grip.

It’s good to know the Xeno is brighter, and activates in a non-low mode. Those are both things I wouldn’t like, along with its larger size (I have a 1×18650 light the same size as the Xeno E03). According to selfbuilt, its modes are 5.4 / 44 / 130 lm, compared to the L10’s 0.1 / 4 / 30 / 120 lm. Personally, I prefer the lower output… though I’d still like to make “medium” a bit lower (20 lm instead of 30). But I might be atypical since I’m photosensitive. Everything looks brighter to me.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
hatman wrote:
Mine is disappointing.

Out of the box, the clickie is defective and only works when it wants to.

Using eneloops, the light isn’t very powerful — the Xeno Nichia is brighter, just as an example. And I really dislike that it only turns on low.

The clip is good-looking, like the L10C itself, but seems light-weight and I lack confidence in it.

Sorry to say, that’s exactly how I feel about my experience with the L10C.


Thanks for adding your thoughts. It’s really unfortunate that you got one with a flaky switch. Are you going to try to get a replacement?

I agree the clip feels a bit weak, definitely near the weak end of the spectrum as far as clips go. It should work fine for some things, but it’d need to be stronger for a really secure grip.

It’s good to know the Xeno is brighter, and activates in a non-low mode. Those are both things I wouldn’t like, along with its larger size (I have a 1×18650 light the same size as the Xeno E03). According to selfbuilt, its modes are 5.4 / 44 / 130 lm, compared to the L10’s 0.1 / 4 / 30 / 120 lm. Personally, I prefer the lower output… though I’d still like to make “medium” a bit lower (20 lm instead of 30). But I might be atypical since I’m photosensitive. Everything looks brighter to me.

I wrote a note on my order asking the dealer/manufacturer to please check the light to make sure it works correctly.

They put a checkmark next to the note, suggesting they had checked the light.

No, I’m not planning to try again.

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hatman wrote:
I wrote a note on my order asking the dealer/manufacturer to please check the light to make sure it works correctly.

They put a checkmark next to the note, suggesting they had checked the light.

No, I’m not planning to try again.


You should ask for a replacement. You’ve got nothing to lose. I’m sure they will cover your return fees as well.
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harry218 wrote:
hatman wrote:
I wrote a note on my order asking the dealer/manufacturer to please check the light to make sure it works correctly.

They put a checkmark next to the note, suggesting they had checked the light.

No, I’m not planning to try again.


You should ask for a replacement. You’ve got nothing to lose. I’m sure they will cover your return fees as well.

Thanks. But I bought it to gift. I would be reluctant to give something when I don’t trust the clip or the clickie, which presumably they checked before sending this one. Plus, I wish it were brighter and turned on at high.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
It’s good to know the Xeno is brighter, and activates in a non-low mode. Those are both things I wouldn’t like, along with its larger size (I have a 1×18650 light the same size as the Xeno E03). According to selfbuilt, its modes are 5.4 / 44 / 130 lm, compared to the L10’s 0.1 / 4 / 30 / 120 lm. Personally, I prefer the lower output… though I’d still like to make “medium” a bit lower (20 lm instead of 30). But I might be atypical since I’m photosensitive. Everything looks brighter to me.

I can’t tell if the Xeno E03 with 219A is brighter than the L10 219A. The beam profile is quite different on the two, the E03 having a tighter hotspot and it seems brighter. Would be nice if the E03 had better modes on a 14400. High and medium (low they call it) run at 1.5A and 1A so visually, you can’t really tell the difference. Very low is about as bright as high on a NiMH. The L10’s got the spacing right.

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Just going to add this… L10C and L10 with their Maratac peers and my most compact 18650 lights (Zebra H60w and H600w MkII) for comparison. All pocketable in my book.

I like the L10C, but I also like running 14500s, so it will probably get a lithium cell and live in my backpack or center console.

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Those are all nice lights!

I always forget how funky the older Zebralight models look.

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Thanks for the great review. Can you tell me was the original L10 4000K, and L10C is 4500K? how accurate are the tints measurements of manufacturers? i really want real 4500K, not 5000K..

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

Mr Floppy
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dazed1 wrote:
Thanks for the great review. Can you tell me was the original L10 4000K, and L10C is 4500K? how accurate are the tints measurements of manufacturers? i really want real 4500K, not 5000K..

The twisty used to use the Nichia 219A which was 4500K. The clicky uses the Nichia 219B which is 5000K. All new Nichia models will use the 219B though.

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The 219Bs aren’t strictly 5000K. I’ve never seen one which was quite as warm as a 219A, but they do vary between individual units.

I don’t have a way to measure the exact color temperature, but based on comparing it to other lights with known tint bins, I’d estimate the 219Bs range from about 4600K to 5100K… and that happens to be what I consider ideal, so I consider it an improvement.

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