2-group Convoys - change to 1 group (permanently disable blink modes)?

I have several Convoy flashlights purchased from FastTech (S6, S3, M1, M2) that I really like… except for the 2-group thing. I never use the blinky modes, and every now and then, the light accidentally switches to the group with the blinking modes, and it drives me nuts.

Is there any way to simply disable the second group?

Or, failing that, what’s the easiest way to convert these to 1-group/3-mode flashlights?

Thanks!

I think there is no way to change that, you will need to buy a new driver with selectable stars on it. Like this one. Edit : Unless you know how to flash firmware like allan d
said.

The Convoy 105c drivers can be flashed with star firmware and blinky modes are gone forever. I have flashed a dozen or so.

Is there a tutorial on how to do this somewhere? Or a thread that covers it?

I’ve always wanted to dive into DIY with flashlights. I have a very basic understanding of what components go into a flashlight, but not enough to feel confident ordering parts. Is there like a FAQ or wiki or similar as to how to build a flashlight from components (which would presumably also supply enough info for how I can swap out the driver of my existing lights)?

Thanks!

I guess you can try to read this, same principle with most budget lights.

Try these threads

I use an arduino and soic-8 clip instead of the usb progarmmer since I always have a bunch laying around. It’s a nuisance to set up the first time, but once you get everything figured out it can be a lot of fun getting exactly what you want

Edit: Forgot to mention you can also buy a 17mm replacement driver. I’d suggest QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER - 17mm
It should be almost identical, but with better firmware and slightly higher output

Let me ask you electronics guys something. Let’s say I got a 3A driver with 8x7135. If i desolder two of the 7135 chips I’ve got then a 2.3A driver?

number of 7135s times either 0.380 or 0.350 depending on which one you have. The 380 mA version is marked 38

Assuming you have 380 mA each, yes, 2.28 amps

Thanks, I’ll do this if the light gets too hot at that amperage.

My 2.8 amp s4 got quite hot after only a few minutes. I’d suggest leaving the chips so you can run it in “turbo” for a few minutes as needed and then drop down to a reasonable level for constant use. Some firmwares even have timers to do it automatically if you decide you are comfortable with reprogramming.

The modes are a fixed percentage of the output of all the chips. Removing some chips will alter not just the high mode but the other modes as well.

Edit- on certain nanjg drivers with no stars shorting pin 3 to pin 4(ground) eliminated the blink modes.

Is there a tutorial or something of doing it with an Arduino?

A dedicated AVR programmer costs <$5 TYD and is much easier. There are several differnent links around here, start here-

AVR Drivers - Flashlight Wiki (and the whole AVR flashlightswiki: AVR Drivers - Flashlight Wiki)

http://www.jcapsolutions.com/flashlights/firmware/

there are several other stickies in the DIY subforum,

edit: there is way more information there than you’ll be able to take in, order the programmer and clip now (they’ll run you about $15 total TYD) and start reading, then in ~30 days when your stuff gets here from China you’ll have an idea what to do and be ready to follow along a tutorial and reprogram a stock 105c to something like STAR Off-Time or some other better-than-stock open source code from people like JonnyC and Dr.Jones

I thought these convoy drivers that flash after 5 seconds on low to swap from 3 modes to 5 modes weren't able to be reflashed for some reason .

oh no…they are the entire basis of the ATtiny driven BLF drivers…they are the EASIEST to be reflashed

Thanks, ordered USBASP, now looking for a good price on a clip.

look at my posts. my first DIY was a convoy s2 from mtn-electronics. I used the s2 host, a qlite driver and an xm-l emitter. if u can solder, u can do it. just read lots of posts on here. there is a lot to learn but start slow. I am just now looking to put together another light——- here is a post about my s2: