Supbeam K50 V2 Mod Thread

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Tom E
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DBCstm wrote:
The big head and fins along with the magnetic control ring and in light charging are all what appealed to me. And the price made it simply irresistible. Do you think the heavy fins do a good job dispersing the heat? Is the reflector also chunky aluminum? How's the balance in hand? How about the lens, is the AR coating apparently a high quality? Have you thought to try a lumens test in the box with the lens in place and again without it? Do you think cell choice is important in this light, or will regulation run the light pretty much the same regardless of cells used? Does there seem to be any operable difference between the 2 lights you received? I like the looks of the text on the one with the Rohs label, for what it's worth. Might have to glue a brass plate with BLF O-L GB on mine. lol In your honest opinion, if you had the inclination to keep a light in pure stock form would this be a good choice to do so with? I've modified virtually every light I have, think this one might be a good one to leave stock. Crazy thought, huh? lol Maybe hot de-dome it in the light and call it good? Thanks for bearing with all the questions. Price you pay for getting yours first and getting 2 versions. :P

Yes... Tongue Out

RaceR86
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Tom E wrote:

DBCstm wrote:
The big head and fins along with the magnetic control ring and in light charging are all what appealed to me. And the price made it simply irresistible. Do you think the heavy fins do a good job dispersing the heat? Is the reflector also chunky aluminum? How's the balance in hand? How about the lens, is the AR coating apparently a high quality? Have you thought to try a lumens test in the box with the lens in place and again without it? Do you think cell choice is important in this light, or will regulation run the light pretty much the same regardless of cells used? Does there seem to be any operable difference between the 2 lights you received? I like the looks of the text on the one with the Rohs label, for what it's worth. Might have to glue a brass plate with BLF O-L GB on mine. lol In your honest opinion, if you had the inclination to keep a light in pure stock form would this be a good choice to do so with? I've modified virtually every light I have, think this one might be a good one to leave stock. Crazy thought, huh? lol Maybe hot de-dome it in the light and call it good? Thanks for bearing with all the questions. Price you pay for getting yours first and getting 2 versions. :P

Yes... Tongue Out

+1

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DB Custom
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Tom’s so fun to poke fun at…

ImA4Wheelr
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Dale, I love that post of yours.  All the questions made my head start to spin and I'm not even on my 10th beer yet.

Tom E
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I actually started reading those Q's thinking... Smile Crap gotta go - fun to have some fun BBQ/Beer/ice luge/live band....

DB Custom
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Would anyone pay $8 for a 28Kcd gain in output?

I just put an UCLp lens in my Courui big head with a de-domed XM-L2 emitter. Before the swap…341.25Kcd (1168.76M). After the swap…369.25Kcd (1215.32M)! Niiice!

Keep that in mind for the big K50 V2 guys… I know it’s supposed to have an AR lens, but does it stack up to what flashlightlens.com can do?

comfychair
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Just a heads-up, the big FET, AOD417, is a P-channel, so don't anybody go sticking a 70N02 in its place. Bad Things will happen if you do that.

LSX
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So, have any of you guys worked out what to do with the driver yet given the differences to the normal TN31/K40 one? I’m looking at you Tom…. Wink

I’m keen to pull mine apart as soon as it arrives but unlike a lot of you guys, I do not understand what most of the components on these drivers do. so I am really relying on someone else to tell me what to solder where haha

RaceR86
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Im pushing up towards 8A to mine at the moment..  0:)

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ImA4Wheelr
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^ Ya Baby!  Music to my ears.

Tom E
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Sorry, haven't been able to get back to it. The 8A sounds nice! Any details on the resistors? Smile

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Hmm what is the jumper wire and FET doing in Tom E’s photo?

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DB Custom
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Crazy, just the way I like it! :bigsmile:

LSX, I’m with you…I don’t know all the ins and outs of the electronics, just show me where to touch some solder and what component to add or subtract and I’m good! Wink

LSX
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RaceR86 wrote:

Im pushing up towards 8A to mine at the moment..  0:)

Wow! That is awesome. Details with photos if you could please!!

RaceR86
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Cant say if its reliable yet. Ive not assembled the light fully. And I think it might be wise for me to "pot" the resistor area of the driver like it was when stock.

Outout seems to be sinking FAST. I could say its 7-8A. But its more like 7A it seems. Ill have to do more testing. But not feeling like pushing it unless the driver is properly cooled.

Ill get back when I know more. No need for others to try and replicate what Ive done just yet.

Edit: Ryan, no need to update OP yet. 8A is not a representative number for the output.  Btw, Ive posted stock numbers too. 

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comfychair
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Hmm what is the jumper wire and FET doing in Tom E's photo? !http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s496/TomE2012/SupBeam%20K50/P1020196...

No reason to assume it's a FET, there's other stuff that comes in that same SOT-23 package.

RaceR86
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May the stock emitter rest in peace.

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bibihang
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Sorry to hear that RaceR86, but pumping 8A through XM-L2 seems a bit too much, 6A is powerful enough while not putting the LED into life-threatening zone. Thanks for testing this out for us. Smile

ryansoh3
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Oh noes, ready for round 2?
Keep up the good work mate.

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RaceR86
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bibihang wrote:
Sorry to hear that RaceR86, but pumping 8A through XM-L2 seems a bit too much

No. Its the right amount. Big Smile

The issue with the driver is that its not nicely and properly regulated when pushing it that far. So when Im seeing 7,9A as the first number that pops up on my DMM, I may have been giving it a lot more the first millisecond. Also, I did some minor tweaks that may have raised it above 8A in the setup I tried.  0:)

Unless this driver gets some special tweaks, then Im skeptical that it will do 7A+ regulated with good reliability.

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RaceR86
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Oh noes, ready for round 2? Keep up the good work mate.

Im ready for round two! 

Question is, is the emitter ready! ? J)

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ImA4Wheelr
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Sorry to hear about your K50's emitter's early departure.  I didn't expect the driver to be able to deliver that much current.  The driver appears to be quite similiar/same to the TN31.  Here's a pic from Tom E in an old thread:

In the TN31, getting it into the 6's is tough work.  Maybe the driver changed in a way that isn't obvious.  The extra cell (4S) may be the difference.  Do you know if your mods might be what got it there?

If you get a chance when your putting in a new emitter, would you see if the driver will drive an MT-G2?  I tried with my TN31, but it was a no go as the driver also limits voltage.

EDIT: Just fixed the picture above.

RaceR86
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Getting this driver into the 6 or into the 7A range is easy.  As Tom E`s pictures shows, its a difference on the spring side of the driver.

But by my standards im not very impressed by the "resistor mod friendliness" of the driver, or should I say how it behaves at the higher amps. Ill probably do a full update tomorrow. Spent a fair amount of time on it today. I decided to to a conservative mod for a change. Boring...

I don't have any spare MT-G2s laying around and I consider my light done now. Gotta leave some testing for you guys. Wink

Looking forward to actually test the flashlight outdoors, in the dark. Not just looking at amp numbers and playing around with the driver...

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ImA4Wheelr
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Sounds good.  I'll try an mt-g2 when I open mine up.

Yes, Tom E and I were comparing notes back when were resister modding our TN31's.  We both completely shorted our banks after he figured out that Vinh was doing it in his mods.  So it sounds like the difference is either the extra cell (TN31 is 3S) or some change in the driver.  I will definitely be comparing all the resistors and such between my TN31 and the K50.

Thanks for the reply.

_the_
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Two fets instead of one. Same thing as in TN32, I guess.. In TN32 the 2nd fet is piggybacked in a hackish way. That makes bridging the resistors a "no no".. I have blown at least five emitters while trying to find the correct resistors for max stable output.

=the=

 

RaceR86
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What is your setup in the TN32? Hows the amps looking at startup and when its being run?

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ImA4Wheelr
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Thanks _the_.  Where is the second FET that the TN31 doesn't have?

K50:

TN31:

RaceR86
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You have to compare the spring side on Tom E`s pictures (as mentioned in my previous post). On those you can see the difference. K50 in the first picture.

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ImA4Wheelr
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I misread Tom E's post.  I thought he meant only one of his K50's came modded like that.  Thank you.

Tom E
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RaceR86  - I didn't have a chance to work on this any more. Did you do the resistor calcs? Do you know what those 3 stacked resistors are?

Once knowing the resistor values, and knowing it's about 5A to the LED, you can calculate 'V' (V=I*R), then computer 'R' for the amps for what you want. I'm thinking maybe I'll aim for 7-7.5A, becaue 8A or above is a definite risk (actually 7 - 7.5A is risky enough...).

If those 3 legged parts are FET's, looked like they added one in parallel - maybe to help reduce heat.

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