Supbeam K50 V2 Mod Thread

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DB Custom
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The above are at 97 yds to the red oil drum. Below, 610 yds to the white barn

My TK61, by comparison

They cut, raked and baled the field today. Other than that, same pic…same place same camera settings.

heggood
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Is the TK61 bone stock?

DB Custom
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It thread off at the control ring, above it I should say. Mine is off, and I’m about to hot de-dome it.

2 big strap wrenches and a persistent nature. Smile

DB Custom
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With the stock light de-domed, I’m getting 420.5Kcd. Now THAT is what I’m talking about! My MAXToch SN6×-2X was king of the hill last month at 365Kcd. Now it suddenly finds itself in the crowd, watching the new podium holders.

SR90 at 622Kcd, TK61 at 600Kcd and the K50V2 at 420.5Kcd. WooHoo!

DB Custom
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sorry heggood, didn’t realize that was directed at me…no, the TK61 is anything but bone stock. Carrier has had spring bypasses, running 2 tubes for run time, all springs bypassed. New driver in the head running 7.2A, XP-L2 on a 32mm Noctigon, de-domed, making 600Kcd. The reflector base has been cut out, such that it fits completely over a 20mm Noctigon. This helps it clear everything on the star, but now that it’s got the 32mm Noctigon it’s kind of redundant.

comfychair
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My old S1100 with a dedomed XML2 (only a T6, and it started as a 1C, so it's pretty ugly) kicks the stock K50's ass up one side and down the other. I think the K50's focus is pretty badly off, it only shows the 'donut hole' at a distance of 3-4 inches, the S1100 is showing it out to around a foot away from the wall.

DB Custom
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This de-domed K50 shows the donut at about 6 inches from the wall. My TK61 it’s out around 6’. Not quite that far on the SR90.

Tom E
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?? I'm so confused...

  • I thought donut holes were a bad thing? You would want the donut hole to be at the most minimum length? I thought?
  • not sure how comparing a mod'ed de-domed S1100 to a stock light means much? I got a mod'ed Jacob A60 and a mod'ed T20 that out throw a stock TN31, but doesn't mean the A60 and T20 are better throwers or better lights.
DB Custom
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Tom, I’m finding that the donut hole is specific to each reflector and the amount of throw it’s capable of producing. Maximizing throw tends to take the focus further out, leaving the donut hole considerably further out…or at least in a massive reflector like the TK61 or SR90. That’s one of the things I was having trouble with on the focus with the TK61, getting the beam convergence as far out as possible so it wasn’t crossing over and enlarging out at distance.

The reflector in my Courui gives a tubular looking beam, doesn’t seem to have that convergence at all.

If you have some space where you can shine the beam out to inifinity look at the beam from the light out, you should see a darker “V” in the middle out to 3’ or a bit further on the big throwers. That should be about the distance the donut hole disappears. Unless I’m missing something completely, and that could very well be…and not for the first time.

That “v” is quite evident in this picture, with the TK61 shining across the Mississippi River…

DB Custom
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A massive carnival searchlight, notice the men standing beside it…. this is the kind of “into infinity” I was talking about. Check out how far the “v” goes out in the center of this huge beam!

DB Custom
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The opposite of using a magnifying glass to burn a bug. There’s a fine point that the light is in convergence, then it spreads back out on the other side of that point.

comfychair
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You can see where the effect comes from with a piece of paper laid over the front...

Roche F6 XML2 10* TIR:

http://75.65.123.78/paper/xml2-tir.jpg

Roche F6 XPG2 stock OP reflector:

http://75.65.123.78/paper/xpg2-OP.jpg

XinTD C8 XML2:

http://75.65.123.78/paper/xml2-xintd.jpg

edit: The XinTD probably needs the LED moved farther up, you can see it's not using very much of the reflector. It's got a standard ~.035" thick centering ring, where the pre-built XinTDs use the much thinner adhesive insulator.

DB Custom
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I’ve been looking at the formula for figuring the parabolic curve, and it would seem that this “v” shape we’re seeing is due to an imperfect parabola. This is probably also due to the fact that an LED does not have a point light source so the reflector is having to gather light from a broader source and collimate it into the cone we desire. Effectively though, the differences we’re seeing are probably the result of the success rate of different manufacturers at getting the curve right.

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Dunno, I'm having a tough time seeing the V - I see convergence, I don't see divergence on the other side. I know with lights like the Shocker and HD2010, The kcd #'s would go up as that donut's distance got less. Maybe you are right about the big reflectors. I recalll rdrfronty testing lux at many distances and saw no difference from 15 m on out, but that could be the specific lights he was testing at the time. I don't think I've seen any one else test lux (kcd) at significant distances - takes 2 people of course and dark open space.

comfychair
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http://75.65.123.78/paper/Dsc08609.jpg

DB Custom
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On my TK61, I got the head loose and dial in the focus simply by turning the head on or off. Doing this while aiming it at the meter gave me the top result, and that has the donut hole hitting at about 6’.

For testing at 15M, I put the meter on a tripod and the video camera on another, zoom in with the camera and watch the meter on it’s screen. Wink

Distance here is a non-issue. I have plenty of that. My driveway is 267 yds long.

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Interesting bout the TK61 - never saw that sort of effect before, but pretty much all my measured tests were at 4-5 meters. The biggest lights I tested were the TN31's and K40.

comfy - those beam pics are nice! I think I sort of understand it - looking at the concentration. The XinTD C8 though looks a lot like the S1100, as far as where the brightest part of the beam is, closely around the center spot?

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Well, I won't have much of anything to add to the mod thread. My mod will end up being mostly cosmetic. I will be sticking with the stock led/star and the stock driver. I replaced two of the three resistors, for more output, but that's all except for heavier wire and resistance mods to the springs.    I also did add copper under the star and I shaved down the locating ring for the led, till it's paper thin.  That's about it, but since my mulitmeter is acting bad and so is my lux meter, I won't be doing any testing of anything other than seeing if it turns on and changes modes.Frown

 

Copper Heat Sink

2aq1

2aq2

 

2aq3

 

Finished?? Nope, I ruined the battery holderCry, so I will have to go buy one. Either that or give it away with no holder and let someone else get one. I still don't see why it fried, but it did. 

Anyhow, I did get a measurement of 104,500 lux at one meter out of it using 4 18650 in series, with heavy wires, on the bench  and it never dropped from there, for the two minutes I was checking. 

 

That's all I can do. I have a couple meters coming and I will rig one up for amps, with some 12ga wire and see what I get for amps. I replaced two of the R120 resistors with one R075 and one R100.

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Very nice looking light there O-L.

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Old-Lumens wrote:

Finished?? Nope, I ruined the battery holderCry, so I will have to go buy one. Either that or give it away with no holder and let someone else get one. I still don't see why it fried, but it did. 

I replaced two of the R120 resistors with one R075 and one R100.

 

You should be looking at less than 6A (peak) then.

Did you read my post earlier about damaging/overheating the battery holder due to the resistor mod?

What exactly happened to yours?

I wonder if anyone else have resistors modded theirs and done a full test on reliability (something that could lead to broken battery holder/carrier).

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Old-Lumens
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Yes, I read your posts. I figured somewhere around 6 amps, but without a meter, it's guessing only.  The holder fried when I put the batteries in it, with no load on it. It got hot in my hand and started smoking. The batteries weren't even the least bit warm when I pulled them out. I checked them and none had dropped any voltage to speak of. I have no clue. I imagine it was me, but I don't know what. I didn't do anything except disassemble and reassemble, but that was enough. One edge of the holder right over one battery was where it fried. It burned up one of the components and that chip melted off the board and melted the solder off the spring there.. Didn't take only a second to do it. Looks like the outer ring touched somehow, but alignment is correct.

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That bad huh.. Thanks for reporting.

Maybe we should have a new list in OP. Who can fry or damage their battery holder the quickest?

Old-Lumens is in the lead with a second...

Ideally I need a minute and low voltage cells in order to do some damage. My light is still working fine with high voltage cells though. I think that puts me in 2nd place at the moment. Big Smile

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Seems like the integrated battery charger carriers are doing more harm than good. Hard core flashlight enthusiasts know better to charge batteries in their lights and the circuitry in the carriers are going poof.

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

DB Custom
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Has this happened on any that haven’t been modified with power bumps?

Mohl
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Who would I be able to contact from Supbeam about getting a replacement battery carrier?

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DBCstm wrote:
With the stock light de-domed, I’m getting 420.5Kcd. Now THAT is what I’m talking about! My MAXToch SN6×-2X was king of the hill last month at 365Kcd. Now it suddenly finds itself in the crowd, watching the new podium holders.

SR90 at 622Kcd, TK61 at 600Kcd and the K50V2 at 420.5Kcd. WooHoo!


I’m considering only dedoming my K50 LED and call it good. Messing with the resistors seems risky and doesn’t give a lot of gain in actual throw. Vinh’s best result with K50 is 550kcd (1483m) and your result of simply dedoming the LED gives 420kcd (1296m). There is “only” a difference of 187 meters and I don’t want to take the risk for that.

Did you re-position the LED or reflector after you have dedomed it? Or simply put them back to exactly where they were?

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Mohl wrote:
Who would I be able to contact from Supbeam about getting a replacement battery carrier?

Bella took care of me. Hopefully, still waiting.

Did you kill or damage yours? Resistor mod?

Have anyone modded their K50s and done a "full reliability check" without any issues with the battery carrier? Tom E? Anyone??

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bibihang, all I did was remove the head (not as simple as it sounds) so I could get easier access to the emitter, then de-domed it hot right in the light. Put it back together and am very pleased with it. One could forego the laborious process of removing the head and do the cut on the dome down inside the head, not easy but certainly do-able. Then it would be only a matter of a few minutes and you’d have it de-domed and throwing this nice tight beam. Smile

Mohl
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RaceR86 wrote:

Mohl wrote:
Who would I be able to contact from Supbeam about getting a replacement battery carrier?

Bella took care of me. Hopefully, still waiting.

Did you kill or damage yours? Resistor mod?

Have anyone modded their K50s and done a “full reliability check” without any issues with the battery carrier? Tom E? Anyone??

I bought the one from OL. He wasn’t able to get a replacement carrier. What is Bella’s contact info if you don’t mind.

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DBCstm, thank you for the information. Meaning that you didn’t fine-tune the focusing at all and still getting 420kcd, am I right?

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