USB 2 Port Hub DCP Enumerator / Charge Adapter V2

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NobleX13
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Have you guys tried Dirty PCBs ? You have to wait for shipping from China but $14 for ten 5cm x 5cm boards is dirt cheap. I tried to upload an OSHPark design to their site but they must need a different format. Complains about a lack of a drill file.

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Halo...
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Gerber file extensions are listed on Dirty PCB's about page. They provide a cam job and .dru design rules.

Gerber file extensionLayer
GTOTop Silkscreen (text)
GTSTop Soldermask (the 'green' stuff)
GTLTop Copper (conducting layer)
GBLBottom Copper
GBSBottom Soldermask
GBOBottom Silkscreen
GML/GKO/GBR*Board Outline*
TXTRouting and Drill (the holes and slots)

dirtypcbs.com/dirt_cheap_dirty_boards.v1.cam

dirtypcbs.com/dirt_cheap_dirty_boards.v1.dru

WarHawk-AVG
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Halo… wrote:
WarHawk wrote:
I would like to import that part (stacked USB ports)…care to edumicate me on how to do that

What are you looking to do? Itseems you already have the part.

It was on the brd I downloaded but not in my .lbr directory, I wanted to copy from that stacked one that ones mine, so I could replace the single one on my board with a double stacked one…this way the board could like wight said it could be less than 1/2 the size it is now
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NobleX13 wrote:
Have you guys tried Dirty PCBs ? You have to wait for shipping from China but $14 for ten 5cm x 5cm boards is dirt cheap. I tried to upload an OSHPark design to their site but they must need a different format. Complains about a lack of a drill file.
Wait time from OSHPark is bad enough, and they are made here CONUS…I just like the purple board goodness Smile

However it might help to get the SRK boards made in 2mm vs 1.6mm (the OSHPark boards are thinner than stock boards and sometimes lead to issues with continuity between the driver and battery tube [aw crap…they charge and extra $20 for the 2.0mm upgrade..fooey])

I wonder if those triple and 7*XML Scaru boards would do better on .6mm thick boards heat wise…hmmm

I wonder how many BLF15.17DD would fit on a 5×5cm panelized board…hmmm

Halo...
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To get the parts from a board you have downloaded: File > Export > Libraries

WarHawk-AVG
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Sweet…I’ll try it when I get home!

wight
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NobleX13 wrote:
Have you guys tried Dirty PCBs ? You have to wait for shipping from China but $14 for ten 5cm x 5cm boards is dirt cheap. I tried to upload an OSHPark design to their site but they must need a different format. Complains about a lack of a drill file.
Thanks for the heads up! I will try them. I’ll continue to need OSHPark for my rapid prototyping needs, regardless of how many filthy little PCBs I get shipped from China.

Also, I figure they’ll probably have similar routing restrictions to other things like Seeed: you can’t break-route panelize w/in your 5×5cm boards. If that’s the case it’s a horrible deal for small round PCBs and a good deal for larger ones or ones that you can cut apart yourself (rectangular boards).

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Illuminaria
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I’m sitting here looking at an Anker USB 3.0 7-Port Hub with Charging Ports (5V / 2.1A and 5V / 1.5A). This is $30 at Amazon. What were you looking to charge with yours with that high current bad boy?

I have dual port 12V, 2 amp cig chargers for the truck for iPhones, SLR 1amp and for Xtar 500ma.

Curious.

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Illuminaria wrote:
I’m sitting here looking at an Anker USB 3.0 7-Port Hub with Charging Ports (5V / 2.1A and 5V / 1.5A). This is $30 at Amazon. What were you looking to charge with yours with that high current bad boy?

I have dual port 12V, 2 amp cig chargers for the truck for iPhones, SLR 1 amp and Xtar 500ma. Curious.

I was looking for a way to have the device auto range and draw max amps and use a cheapo ATX powersupply, make it scalable, and say hey “I did that”

Pretty much you can take a cheap’o whatever, and solder a 100ohm resistor (or even short) the D+ and D- and it will automatically pull up to 1A, but if it can pull 2A (10 watts) why not have it do it automatically

Beautiful thing…with an ATX powersupply, 5vdc is the rail is where the most “available” current is at, but it also has a 12vdc rail, and a 3.3vdc rail, the 12vdc rail I can plug into my Nitecore I4 and possibly reduce the heat generated internally due to the transformer changing AC to DC to run the charge portion, and HKJ even reviewed a NiCD/NiMH charger that uses 3vdc wall wart…well if I had one of those I could then tie into that rail…it allows a throw away power supply to be used for quite a few other things…and they usually do have very good regulation (as long as you have a load resistor on the rails [in most cases])

It all boils down to…I’m a tinkerer, and I just wanted to see if I could do it and fiddle futz around a bit (this is my hobby after all Wink )

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wight have you tweaked it up any?

I think I might order me a set of the trapezoidal ones and see if it works out…use the charge doctor to see what kind of current different devices can pull

With the cost of the board down, I should be able to build a single dual unit for pretty cheap…

TP2513 $1.87 × 3 = $5.61

TERMINAL BLOCK EUROSTYLE $0.80 × 3 = $2.40

CAP CER 0.1UF 0805 pennies (I think I have a bunch for off time caps for BLFDD drivers) I will calculate at $1.00

SMD LED RED 0805 $3.83 for 10

Resistor 150Ω 0805 $0.21 for 10

USB Type A SMD $0.77 × 6 = $4.62

Boards $7.80 per set of three

Total = ~25.47 so each unit will be roughly $8.90ish a piece

Question? Would you put some mount holes like in the original for “stackability”?

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OK..render of the gerbers with updates, I added drills to allow for spacers to stack the boards if wanted (use motherboard standoffs, drill holes directly into the housing of the powersupply, stack 3 boards high, voila), moved the LED between the USB ports to cut down on the glare (we all know those little LED’s can be pretty bright)

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Ordered a set…$7.80 won’t break the bank…now to get the components (will have to check the budget)

wight
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Are the +/- vias intended to hold a connector? EDIT: oops, I see the terminal block now.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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This board really isn’t the best, but maybe it will give you some ideas. I noticed that you did not place any components on the bottom, so I didn’t either. My first instinct is definitely to move all the 0805’s and the SOT23-6 onto the bottom. Instead I cleaned up that stray trace so that the bottom is 100% GND. I also connected the shield on the USB ports to GND. I had to move the power LED so I added a second set of pads for that – populate 1 or both sets. Since you seemed hot on the idea of >2 ports, I added a placement for a second set of terminals (for pass through / daisychain). The terminal housings do sit on top of other stuff (SMD pins). Screwholes are M3, so FDD/ODD screws rather than MBD screws. When slimmed down this far the board costs $3.65 for three. I’d say the sweet spot is probably more like $4.50 with a little more space given to everything (mounting considerations, no stacking of headers over SMD pins, etc). Also, I trusted your understanding of the pinout for the chip. I didn’t check the datasheet or anything. Note that I swapped the ports, it was easier to route that way. The corners may be flimsy, but nobody cares if they break off as long as you are using all 3 mounting holes.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Halo...
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Stacked dual usb ports is the way to go imo.
Have to keep the cost down or else you could just buy a high amp usb charger with intelligent ports. TPS2513 or similar.
$26 Anker 40W 5-Port USB Charger with PowerIQ​
$16 Anker 25W 5-Port with PowerIQ
$12 iXCC Dual USB 4.2 Amp (20 Watt) Travel Charger – SMART ChargeWise

wight
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I agree. I can’t help wanting to smash the PCB outline as far in as I can get it though ;-).

Even a 2-port stack with all through-hole components and using all Chinese eBay/Aliexpress parts seems like it ends up awfully expensive (and awfully bulky once you strap that ATX PSU onto it).

OTOH you know a good-brand ATX PSU has clean 5v as long as you put a big (wasteful!) load on the 12v to avoid cross-loading (unless it’s a new PSU w/ 5v regulated from 12v… why are you wasting an expensive PSU on charging USB devices though?). And you know what chips you put on the charging PCB. So squeaky clean charging is maybe worth something…

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

WarHawk-AVG
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wight wrote:
This board really isn’t the best, but maybe it will give you some ideas. I noticed that you did not place any components on the bottom, so I didn’t either. My first instinct is definitely to move all the 0805’s and the SOT23-6 onto the bottom. Instead I cleaned up that stray trace so that the bottom is 100% GND. I also connected the shield on the USB ports to GND. I had to move the power LED so I added a second set of pads for that – populate 1 or both sets. Since you seemed hot on the idea of >2 ports, I added a placement for a second set of terminals (for pass through / daisychain). The terminal housings do sit on top of other stuff (SMD pins). Screwholes are M3, so FDD/ODD screws rather than MBD screws. When slimmed down this far the board costs $3.65 for three. I’d say the sweet spot is probably more like $4.50 with a little more space given to everything (mounting considerations, no stacking of headers over SMD pins, etc). Also, I trusted your understanding of the pinout for the chip. I didn’t check the datasheet or anything. Note that I swapped the ports, it was easier to route that way. The corners may be flimsy, but nobody cares if they break off as long as you are using all 3 mounting holes. !http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/WarHawk-AVG_TPS2513/v006/Bottom.png!

Nice! I put those eurostyle blocks on mine for tying in the powersupply leads, your design could probably benefit from a smaller form factor maybe even header pins

pretty interesting setup though for sure

wight
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I didn’t realize you were using those terminal blocks when I started (figured it was just a pair of holes ;-)), but really now that I think about it I see no reason not to install them the way I’ve got it laid out. The legs are more than long enough for them to be over top of a little pin or four.

Alternatively you could throw all the low-profile SMD components on the bottom and increase the spacing between the USB ports slightly and increase the length of the board a little maybe. With a single terminal block you could then fit it between the USB ports. You’d also be able to fit 6-32 motherboard screws and standoffs rather than M3 screws.

Actually you might be able to get the overall board size lower that way… hmm…

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

fartybum
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wight
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I’m checking the datasheet and wiring now. (Sunday morning ;-)) I think there’s only one error – easily fixable for a prototype. You’ve got the decoupling cap inline for the little TP2513’s Vin. That won’t work, the chip won’t get any 5v! (caps block DC…) Take another look at the datasheet. See how the decoupling cap just connects between the Vin trace and GND but Vin also connects to 5v?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

WarHawk-AVG
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Yup…gonna have to do some revision…the cap doesn’t have a passthru to the + plane of the board…doh, can easily scrape the edge of the mask right below the C1 silkscreen to raw copper and solder a jumper

Might even rotate the chip like you did on your board wight…to cut down on the trace length

I am really digging the look of the board with the large polygon pour though, will be fixing…

wight, do you or anyone else know how to remove the white silk screening of the component on the copper pads under the tStop layer? I want it to print the outline of the IC but not print over the copper, I can gently scrape it, but would rather not have to

Halo...
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Oshpark fab does not print any silkscreen over bare copper.

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Halo… wrote:
Oshpark fab does not print any silkscreen over bare copper.

Um..yes they do (at least they did on this run (was the 5 day expedite test)

It’s a crappy pic…but the white outline and little feet of the 6 pin IC is printed over the top of the pads, heck they even printed the outline of the USB housing over the bare copper of the VIA, everything else is spot on

I even scraped one to ensure…sure enough raw copper under the white paint

wight, I found a better way, bridge the capacitor, solder the cap from the end pad to the ground pin on the USB A pin

I might just trash these and get another set after I do the fixes

Halo...
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They screwed those up. I’ve seen them do that before. If you contact them they will remake them.

oshpark wrote:
The silkscreen is put on with what is basically a 200 dpi printer. Lines thinner than 5 mils will be fattened to 5 mils before printing.
Try to keep your silkscreen inside the board outline. It’s okay if it goes out of the board outline, but it will be trimmed with sometimes unpredictable results.
The fab will automatically remove any silkscreen that crosses drilled holes or exposed metal.
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There were errors on those boards anyway…my mistake, won’t get them to remake them

Besides I believe I fixed my screwup

Even shaved a little bit off, and removed the more or less useless LED and resistor
2 layer board of 0.87×1.5 inches (22×38mm). $6.50 for three

Wight, and/or others…wanna check it out please

Render
Top

Bottom

A little 3D

Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ulm6y2kq5gmpfr7/AAAXaLa3bYnJEf_hy8uBV0HNa

Oh and Halo… I sent them OSHPark an email…this production was under the Super Swift Service “test” they might have skipped that step in the rush…but thanks for the heads up on the producers removing the mask, Thanks!

NobleX13
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
There were errors on those boards anyway…my mistake, won’t get them to remake them

Besides I believe I fixed my screwup

Even shaved a little bit off, and removed the more or less useless LED and resistor
2 layer board of 0.87×1.5 inches (22×38mm). $6.50 for three

Wight, and/or others…wanna check it out please

Render
Top

Bottom

A little 3D

Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ulm6y2kq5gmpfr7/AAAXaLa3bYnJEf_hy8uBV0HNa

That looks lovely!

"Nothing is true, everything is permitted."

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Why do away with the SMD status LED?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Why do away with the SMD status LED?
Probably to save space. He may as well put the status LED on the bottom though I think, no reason to leave it off entirely.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Halo...
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You should turn on thermals for the polygon.

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Halo… wrote:
You should turn on thermals for the polygon.

How?
Checking

um..duh…click the thermal outline, properties…actually had to turn off thermals for the pads to be solid instead of the broken pattern

Thanks Halo…

Do you guys want the “status led”?

More or less going to be on all the time the board has 5vdc applied to it

Files updated with thermals off (no render, same as the above, just now instead of having to draw a trace over the thermal cutout area and having to name it, it removes the auto gap created by the thermal parameter)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ulm6y2kq5gmpfr7/AAAXaLa3bYnJEf_hy8uBV0HNa

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