I wanted to modify my TX25C2 from XM-L2 U2 1A to XP-G2 R5 1C on copper sinkpad to get more throw, the led swap was very easy to do as long as you use a very hot soldering gun, I tried to use the standard 40watt soldering pen but it did not melt the solder, apparently EagleTac uses a higher melting point solder, Bummer! :~
I then proceded to use my 180watt soldering gun, being very careful not to melt the switch assembly or the XM-L2 led that sits on a 16mm MPCB, I put a small ammount of soldering flux and with the preheated soldering tip it melted right away.
I was surprised that EagleTac uses silicon wire, it was not damaged at all during desoldering… Great!
I noticed that the TX25C2 has a small machining depression just under the led about 2mm in diameter, but with the 16mm copper sinkpad this won’t be a problem.
Replaced the XM-L2 U2 1A with a XP-G2 R5 1C on a copper sinkpad, removed the stock white plastic centering ring and proceeded to carefully center the led in the reflector, took several tries but after it was properly centered the results are very good, the hotspot reduced by about half the original and the brightness is just a bit less but the throw is way better.
Here are a couple of beamshots comparing the TX25C2 to a Sunwayman D40 XM-L2 U2 1A which has a much bigger reflector,
Don’t pay attention to the tint or intensity since my phone camera does not capture it accurately, look at the hotspot size!
EagleTac TX25C2 XM-L2 stock on the left, Sunwayman D40 XM-L2 on the right.
Now modified EagleTac TX25C2 XP-G2 on the left, Sunwayman D40 XM-L2 on the right.
I was trying to adjust brightness of both lights to not saturate the camera and capture the hotspot more accurately, on high the TX25C2 XP-G2 looks brighter than the Sunwayman D40 XM-L2 (But the corona is dimmer) I Haven’t seen comparison pics between the stock TX25C2 XM-L2 and a XP-G2 modification and I wanted to share.
Thanks for reading.
AlexGT