How to make an XM-L UltraFire MCU-C88?

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Haggai
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How to make an XM-L UltraFire MCU-C88?

I want to take the UF MCU-C88 and change the emitter to XM-L.

I don't have the C88 yet, and as I want to cut the time needed for experimenting, I'll ask - what do I need?

What emitter base plate diameter? Any specific LED recommended? (preferably U2)

What driver diameter?

What driver? I want at least a good high and a low low. A slow strobe mode can be nice. 

Thermal paste? Which one is best? (I don't want thermal adhesive)

Any special tools for removing any of the host's parts?

Haggai
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I will run it off 3 AA batteries, NiMH or Lithium primaries like Energizer Ultimate (I hope they sag fast enough or I'll have to get a driver capable of handling more than the standard 4.2v, maybe even more than 4.5v just to be on the safe side).

I think the price difference between XM-L and XP-G is not that great, and I like the thermal efficiency of the XM-L and its being more floody.

I really don't like those million modes drivers with groups that change on low mode... I think they are obnoxious. I much rather have a permanent mode group, or some other way of changing groups (e.g. cycling through all the modes twice).

Boaz
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I know this thought goes against the grain but what it wrong with a driver that doesn't drive the xml as hard as you possibly can ?

 seems to me this is a perfect case where under driving a light might be a good idea..What i don't know is what a deep reflector and an xml look like together ..i'm interested

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old4570
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oldbobk wrote:

Boaz,

      I was doing ceiling bounces with an F-15 and a MF 3 mode yesterday. Got 31 with the 3 mode, 44 with the F-15. This was in an office where I could eliminate all ambient light. It brings up a question of why we would choose an XM-L, and then cripple it by putting it in a P60? I just ordered a Neutral White from E1320. I am looking for the elusive EveryLight, with an appropriate indoor brightness level, a general-purpose outdoor level, and a turbo mode for seeing as far as I can. I want it to slip in a pocket, so the P60-sized head is about it. This last choice compromises the absolute output on high, but makes it EDC-able. However, the battery in the F-15 would have to be pretty far down to make it only as bright as a P60 dropin. So, run your XM-L at 2.4, enjoy the increased output over an XP-G, and better runtime than a maxed-out driver will provide. Unless you always carry spare batts or a spare light, you're going to have an "Oh, crap!" moment someday.

                                                                                                                                    Bob K

Boaz wrote:

I know this thought goes against the grain but what it wrong with a driver that doesn't drive the xml as hard as you possibly can ?

 seems to me this is a perfect case where under driving a light might be a good idea..What i don't know is what a deep reflector and an xml look like together ..i'm interested

 

I have ordered some 1.4-1.5A Amp drivers , and plan on building a lower output XM-L P60 pill just to see how it fares ..

I expect output to be around 400 to 500Lumen  , and thats good output for 1.4 to 1.5 Amp , and since the emitter is under driven , no heat related sag or other issues + lots more run time .. [ No fear of running high for extended periods ] 

Yes a XP-G R5 [ recent ones ] can do 400+ , but they also seem to sag a fair bit as the light warms up ... The XM-L will have an advantage here and hold output . 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Boaz
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[  Even at 1.4A driving that XM-L, that little light sure got hot!

[/quote]

I'd like to know why ?..actually i'd like to understand the problems of the wrong driver / on the wrong emitter .

I'm driver / electronics ignorant

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jamesearljonesi...
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Boaz wrote:

[  Even at 1.4A driving that XM-L, that little light sure got hot!

I'd like to know why ?..actually i'd like to understand the problems of the wrong driver / on the wrong emitter .

I'm driver / electronics ignorant

[/quote]

its only getting less than half of its max current but it got hot because of the size of the heatsinking available. if it was on a bigger light like the c88 this would'nt be the case.

03/04/16 

 

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Haggai
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Boaz wrote:

I know this thought goes against the grain but what it wrong with a driver that doesn't drive the xml as hard as you possibly can ?

 seems to me this is a perfect case where under driving a light might be a good idea..What i don't know is what a deep reflector and an xml look like together ..i'm interested

My Manafont XM-L draws about 1.5A-2A from 3xAAA eneloops in my L2i. Since its driver pulls about 3.2A from my flame Trustfire 18650, I guess it really doesn't matter what the maximum current is.

Or maybe you meant limiting the 3xAA configuration to less than 1.5A? But this seems like crippling the XM-L too much.

Boaz
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I wasn't thinking about crippling the emitter..just like a fenix or zebra light  that goes into a high that's not crippling to the batteries  and hide a turbo mode .one click away with the zebralight.

My suggestion is to not cripple the batteries first . like 5 lumens 50 lumens 400 ....and a hidden 700~800 turbo mode  

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Haggai
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That's a good idea.

Do you know of any emitter that has this feature?

Boaz
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I don't think this is about the emitter ..i believe we're talking about the driver here .. but don't listen to me ..I'm only smart enough electronically to burn down half the house ..I assume there are others out here much more qualified  to help you burn the entire house down Silly

vaya con dios

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Haggai
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Oops, obviously I meant what driver has this feature... Embarassed

mitro
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Here's a little advice on converting the C88 to XML since I did mine today. It does take a 14mm PCB and a 17mm driver as stated before. I had a helluva time getting the emitter loose until I took a little butane torch (my cigar lighter) and heated up the inside of the pill (take the driver out first!) then it just took a good twist with a pair of needle nose pliers and it broke loose. Then there's cleaning out the old adhesive... that's never fun.

The PCB of the Q5 is thinner than the XM-L one I have to replace, so it added a < 1mm gap between the head and the body. If one were so inclined, they could sand it down to the same thickness as the original. I was lazy this time so I didn't. The bottom of the reflector is completely flat, so try to keep the wires and solder as low as possible. You may need to replace the original isolation disk, but regardless I recommend sticking it to the reflector, not the emitter (much more effective and makes more sense).

I used a NANJG 105c driver and I couldn't quite get it to sit right, but a little filing fixes that. I also put an isolation disk on the driver (especially these with chips on the bottom side) just to be safe. With the spring on the driver the battery carrier still fits nicely and there were no contact issues.

I am getting 2.7 Amps on fully charged Duraloops (which probably sags quickly) and I ran it on high until the low voltage warning kicked it 50 minutes later. The light was hot, but manageable. The pill is massive and does a nice job with the heat. I looks like it averaged 2.1 - 2.2A during the run on high. Oh... and it out throws my only other light with a reflector about this size: the 980L. Smile