UniqueFire UF-T09 9X CREE XM-L T6 LED 4-Mode Flashlight

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Richie086
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UniqueFire UF-T09 9X CREE XM-L T6 LED 4-Mode Flashlight

*

Please view post #1 for interior and exterior BEAM shots.*

Hi folks,

I couldn’t resist taking a chance on this 9x flashlight being it takes 26650 cells and has a mid-click and no tail-cap switch, in addition to having 3-Modes and a hidden strobe all stock out of the box.

It has no memory function, and always comes on Low mode, another click to Medium, and a 3rd click to High. Strobe can be activated, whether the light is in “Off” or at any level of brightness simply by holding down the switch.

Power readings at the tail-cap using 3X ENERPOWER+ Protected Li-Ion 26650 4500 mAh cells was 3.80 amps, and using MNKE IMR 26650 cells was a bit higher at 3.88 amps. So stock we are looking at about 43 Watts+ gross, which is still decent considering the other versions, such as my Trustfire AK-47 and similar versions, now come stock at only about 28W – 30W gross output, and you still have to deal with Strobe and SOS modes.

I do know there is some PWM on Low and Med, which I knew ahead of time, but I was only able to see it on video. My eyes can’t detect it when using it. I purchased it a couple of days ago and went with SunSky-online.com, which was the first time I’ve purchased anything from them. The price paid on September 3rd was $60.00 and included free slow boat shipping. But I decided to go with DHL China for $23.44, which was lightning fast.

The light arrived in flawless condition and in perfect working order. I’ll post some beam shots soon and try to take it apart to see what’s inside. It’s my belief the heat-sinking on this one may be huge, at least from the weight of the head compared to my Trustfire AK-47, but I’ll be sure to photo everything.

The link to where I purchased.

SUNSKY

Richie

Edited by: Richie086 on 09/16/2014 - 22:29
Richie086
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Did my best with these photos. It was a bit more involved to dismantle this light than I thought. But the following should give you a good idea about what drives this thing.


For starters, I’ve never seen a glass lens like this before. Yes, it’s 5.92mm thick! Since this flashlight is about a 1/2” shorter than a typical 9x light, I can only assume the manufacturer had to make up the space somewhere. Unusual to say the least, but the lens is absolutely clear, but no anti-reflective coating.


This is what the HX-1322A2 driver looks like. A fairly large diameter at 46.7mm.


The wiring into the reflector. It should also be noted, the reflector is the only part on this light that is identical to a Trustfire AK-47.
All other components are completely different.


Underside photo of the driver.


A shot down the pipe. That loose retainer ring is what holds the driver to the base of the
reflector area. NOTE: The large reflector assembly base actually sits on top of the shelve area
at the base way down there. I verified this with a digital caliper. The reflector assembly can bleed
heat not only from the base, but I assume from the top lip also, where the bezel screws onto it.


AK-47 lux reading after 1 minute on HIGH, dropping like a rock from 1800 lux. Note, modded with KD driver for 57 watts.


UniqueFire lux reading after 1 minute on HIGH, dropping very slowly from about 1500 and holding almost steady.


Trustfire AK-47 on right, which is about a 1/2” taller than the UniqueFire.


UniqueFire beam shot at about 90 feet.


Trustfire AK-47 with Second Generation KD driver.


The SuperNight (LightCastle) 12x Cree.

Richie

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice.  Looking forward to hearing/seeing more.

FlashPilot
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The cooling fins are far below the emitter mounting location, so Id be worried that this will be another poorly heat sinked light. Even if they were abutted on a solid floor shelf, the total combined surface area is far to small, with the fins only being there for aesthetics. So its probably under-driven and any mods would make it an even hotter running light. The only cheap +7x multi emitter that properly handles heat that Ive seen so far is the TrustFire TR-J20.

RaceR86
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Looks very interesting. Nice to have a side switch on one of these lights. Bezel looks like it might be a bit too long (possibly stealing some light and limiting a bit of the spill).

Looking forward to the teardown.

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

blueb8llz
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finally they made one with a side switch. took them long enough. needa change driver though. starting on low is a no go for me.

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Looks like this light has been out for a year, curious to see the breakdown. Subscribed! Big Smile

Andrew

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Pretty cool with the side switch. I’m going to start putting them in myself on plunger lights I know most people think it’s rather ridiculous to have a tailcap switch on a light this long.

One question, Is that a momentary switch or does the current actually run through the switch like a regular tail cap switch? If the current runs thought the switch it will be easy to mod using a FET driver. If not well then at least you have a hole already drilled out to put a regular switch in.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Richie086
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18sixfifty wrote:
Pretty cool with the side switch. I’m going to start putting them in myself on plunger lights I know most people think it’s rather ridiculous to have a tailcap switch on a light this long.

One question, Is that a momentary switch or does the current actually run through the switch like a regular tail cap switch? If the current runs thought the switch it will be easy to mod using a FET driver. If not well then at least you have a hole already drilled out to put a regular switch in.

Hi 18sixfifty,

I just completed some interior photos that I’ll be posted shortly. From the looks of the 46.7mm diameter driver, I’d say it is a FET driver. But whether the full current runs through the switch, I’m not sure.

At this point, performing a rudimentary ceiling bouce test comparing the light to my modified Trustfire AK-47 9x Cree with the 57 watt KD driver in it, the Uniquefire blows its doors off with regard to superior heat dissipation. The modded AK started out at about 1,800 lux, and quickly dropped off to 1,200 lux within 1 minutes time.

However, the Uniquefire started at about 1,500 lux and output dropped very much slower and holding at 1,400 lux. I’m sure none of these lux readings are accurate within themselves only using a cheap LX1010B, but the readings are still very telling.

Richie

18sixfifty
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That’s really good. Coming close to the beast driver and then beating it after a while is excellent. That is very impressive for a stock light and even better that it’s got the side switch. Nice light and something people should be checking out when looking for a good high output flooder.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Richie086
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Post #2 Updated with Interior photos.

Richie

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Thanks for the pics of the driver. With those readings there isn’t much reason to mod it anyway. It’s an interesting driver. Must be wired 3S3P so it’s not likely to be a boost driver. The driver itself reminds me of the one in an SP03. I would assume the current is not running through the switch.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Richie086
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18sixfifty wrote:
Thanks for the pics of the driver. With those readings there isn’t much reason to mod it anyway. It’s an interesting driver. Must be wired 3S3P so it’s not likely to be a boost driver. The driver itself reminds me of the one in an SP03. I would assume the current is not running through the switch.

I can’t tell you how pissed I was while performing this rudimentary lux reading. Since the AK-47 and Uniquefire have identical reflectors, the beam profile is also exact, except the AK is much brighter at startup. What I really didn’t expect was to see with my own eyes how fast that light dims when compared to this new light. While switching the lights around, I quickly noticed they were the same brightness at one point, I really couldn’t believe it, then the light meter showed the AK was actually dimmer running for the same amount of time.

Now I see why the more experienced members here keep driving the point home, it doesn’t matter how powerful the driver is, if the light can’t dissipate heat quickly enough, the results will be what I discovered here.

Richie

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Is your modded AK-47 using the stock LED's and alum stars, or single piece star? The top priority is the first junction: LED - star, then of course thru the star, then the star to pill/LED shelf. That's why a lot of guys do the PITA and expensive process of replacing the LED's with XM-L2's on DTP copper on these monster flooders.

But also, could be the driver components heating up, causing loss's too. Those KD beast drivers are prone to that, and the resulting failures. I got a couple of lights with the KD beast drivers, but afraid to run them over one minute.

Richie086
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Tom E wrote:

Is your modded AK-47 using the stock LED’s and alum stars, or single piece star? The top priority is the first junction: LED – star, then of course thru the star, then the star to pill/LED shelf. That’s why a lot of guys do the PITA and expensive process of replacing the LED’s with XM-L2’s on DTP copper on these monster flooders.

But also, could be the driver components heating up, causing loss’s too. Those KD beast drivers are prone to that, and the resulting failures. I got a couple of lights with the KD beast drivers, but afraid to run them over one minute.

Hey Tom,

Thanks for the great information. If I mod any of them, I think it should be this new one. I have no problem modding the standard type of this light, but the side switch with all the wires is what concerns me. That aside, I’ll look into purchasing the components you suggest, starting with the XML-2’s and stars.

Richie

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Hi folks,

I just tested the Uniquefire with my slightly older (July 2012) Trustfire 26650 5000 mAh cells. Naturally these are the real ones not fakes. When I checked the tail cap reading, I got 5.30 amps on HIGH. Does this mean the voltage in the cells is sagging to much, which may make the amps go way up? As previously mentioned, the EnerPower cells tail reading was 3.80 amps and the MNKE cells read 3.88 amps.

They are only 2 years old, but were fully charged to 4.20 volts prior to installing them. I was simply testing them in this light to see if the protection would tripp, which it didn’t.

Richie

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Tried my second set of 3 Trustfire 26650 5000mAh cells in this light that were fully charged. Tail cap readings were 5.25 amps. So I guess depending on the cells used, tail cap readings on this light can be anywhere from 3.80 amps to 5.30 amps on High mode.

Richie

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MNKE are not low resistance all that much nowadays. I've had good #'s from the ol reliable TF 26650's in the past as well. Not familiar with EnerPower's, but you got interesting results. Could be the driver is drawing more amps form the TF's because of the lower voltage it's getting from them, compared to the MNKE's. MNKE's are disappointing IMR's for today's standards - even KK's are so much better. Would be interesting to compare acutal output - ceiling bounce or throw just to tell if any difference.

I know I've gotten lower amps from good cells on some lights but light output didn't vary much, mayne even better.

Richie086
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Tom E wrote:

MNKE are not low resistance all that much nowadays. I’ve had good #‘s from the ol reliable TF 26650’s in the past as well. Not familiar with EnerPower’s, but you got interesting results. Could be the driver is drawing more amps form the TF’s because of the lower voltage it’s getting from them, compared to the MNKE’s. MNKE’s are disappointing IMR’s for today’s standards – even KK’s are so much better. Would be interesting to compare acutal output – ceiling bounce or throw just to tell if any difference.

I know I’ve gotten lower amps from good cells on some lights but light output didn’t vary much, mayne even better.

Hey Tom,

I appreciate the input from you. I compared both lights against the the lux meter as you suggested. The modded AK-47 (5.85 amps) on Enerpower cells was 202 lux on the 10x meter setting, and the Uniquefire on TF Flames 26650’s (5.25 amps) was 165 lux on the 10x meter setting.

After this test, the tail cap spring melted on the AK-47..LOL.

Richie

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Just got a few KeepPower protected 26650 5200mAh cells from Calvin over at Illumination Supply. Not a great fit length-wise, but I can get a few threads enough to close the tail cap. Fully charged, they show 3.92 amps at the tail. Testing them at a somewhat discharged state of a static 3.75 volts, tail cap current rose to 5.88 amps.

Unfortunately the KeepPower cells are much to long to work in the Trustfire AK-47, so that light will continue to use the EnerPower 4500mAh cells.

Richie

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Those are probably the low performing 5200 cells in the KP's. Richard sells them under the EVVA label - protected and button top. Weird - guess low resistance cells do perform better in this light, but the driver raises amps (power) as the cell depletes and produces lower voltage.

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Beam shots have been added to post #1 showing the UniqueFire facing off with the Trustfire AK-47 and the SuperNight 12x Cree (LightCastle) POST 1

Richie

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BLF-SRKDD driver is 46mm, already set up for a momentary switch, and can easily be modded to work with the 12.6v input voltage.

Richie086
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comfychair wrote:

BLF-SRKDD driver is 46mm, already set up for a momentary switch, and can easily be modded to work with the 12.6v input voltage.

Thanks Comfy, just added it to the list for sure.

Richie

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SRK-DD (should we take a vote to decide what exactly to call these things?) thread here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32339

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What can be the easiest mod, on this driver HX-1322A2 ??