An Unorthodox Way to Solder a wire to an MCPCB ~ ~ Low Profile Attachment (HD2010)

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Ouchyfoot
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An Unorthodox Way to Solder a wire to an MCPCB ~ ~ Low Profile Attachment (HD2010)

I saw OldLumens thread on "Soldering wires to a star, a little differently" to make a low profile connection, and it got me thinking about another way this might be accomplished.

OldLumens Thread:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33061#node-33061

I decided to risk a Noctigon and possible Messing up an XM-L2 and a copper pill for an HD2010 to see if it would work. I soldered the Noctigon directly to the pill. You can use whatever thermal adhesive you like, today I felt like soldering.

I just want to add that I'm using teflon wire as I feel the outer coating on silicone wire is too bulky.

First I drilled holes through the center of the Noctigon LED Pads, and right through the pill. I made the holes the same diameter as the wire so they would fit tight.

 

I attached the wires to a BLF17DD FET driver and fed them through the holes. It was a snug fit.

This is when you should tin the pads around the wires. (I learned this after shorting the pad to ground on my first attempt)

 

Snip the wires flush with a side cutters, add some flux and a blob of solder on the tip of your iron to complete the connection to the pad.

 

It seems to work OK.

 

I covered the pads with a bit of Clapton tape and used a very thin low profile centering wing. The reflector tightened down very tight onto the pill of my HD2010 and got a really nicely focused, tight hot spot. 

Anyway, I guess that's another way to wire up your HD2010.

Here's an ipad beamshot. In real life the hotspot is about three quarters the size. The ipad camera likes to collect all the surrounding light into the center.

 

Edited by: Ouchyfoot on 09/07/2014 - 14:32
18sixfifty
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NICE!! Great idea and it should come in really handy with a number of mods. Thanks for sharing.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

M4D M4X
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great idea!

thanks for sharing!

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

AlexGT
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Interesting mod you did there! Beer

MRsDNF
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Nice effort OF. I love your thinking. I should write all these ideas down as I forget them.

 

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JohnnyMac
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That's one of those "why didn't I think of that?" ideas. Nice!

Legolas Jr.
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Nice idea, that will come in handy sometime!

“Strive to be a warrior and a scholar. Be forged in fire and tempered by knowledge. If not, you will either lack the courage to fight for your ideals or lack ideals worth fighting for.”

ohaya
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When you do that, isn’t there s chance that both the negative and positive pads get shorted together?

Ouchyfoot
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The main thing to watch out for is shorting the pad to ground. That’s why I made the holes tight to the wire. You don’t want any solder to flow down the hole past the dielectric layer and shorting the pad to ground.
I tested the system on old aluminum MCPCBs first, and only had that problem once. Mostly the solder doesn’t gravitate onto nonconductive surfaces. At each step I touch the probes of my DMM onto the pad and the edge of the MCPCB to make sure that hasn’t occurred.
Yes, things could go south on you if you’re not careful and drill large sloppy holes, but so far it’s worked out for me.

locusto03
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I've been wondering recently why there aren't any mcpcb's with solder pads on the bottom, similar to what OL did in one of his videos... It'd be cleaner and easier use big reflectors.

Tom E
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Dang - I find this should be easier for me than O-L's method. Risk is the grounding, but easily can be buzzed out if it happened. The Y3 has the same issue with a flat bottom reflector, but the MaxToch 26mm copper DTP star should take care of that by extending the connections outside the flat section.

Ouchyfoot
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locusto03 wrote:

I’ve been wondering recently why there aren’t any mcpcb’s with solder pads on the bottom, similar to what OL did in one of his videos… It’d be cleaner and easier use big reflectors.


I think to have solder pads on the bottom would be more difficult to produce. Solder pads on the top only require a surface dielectric layer. To move them to the bottom, there would have to be an insulated core going from top to bottom. Then how are you going to keep them from coming into contact with the bottom of the pill?
Ouchyfoot
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Tom E wrote:

Dang – I find this should be easier for me than O-L’s method. Risk is the grounding, but easily can be buzzed out if it happened. .


I think this method is even lower profile than a piece of copper braid saturated in solder. I’m pretty sure I could have gotten it even flatter, but I’ve been using my side cutters for things they shouldn’t be used for. Rather than giving the wire nice clean flush snip, I had to kind of gnaw at it.

Test it out with old aluminum stars you’ll never use and a DMM. Teflon wires and tight holes.

RMM
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Great idea!  Thanks for sharing.  Smile   Looks like a good option for some lights...especially the HD2010.

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bibihang
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This is brilliant! Thank you Ouchyfoot. Beer

Ouchyfoot
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I had this light out last night, and I’m loving it. The beam is perfect and throws true, a tube of light.

I bought three of these a while ago and played around at modding one of them. I was never really that impressed with any of the beam profiles it produced. They’ve been sitting in a box …ignored. I even had copper pills for all of them, but
never really got into the HD2010. Something just bugged me about it.

If you don’t get the reflector perfectly focused, it’s a so-so light. But now that I’ve got it right, I can’t believe I’ve been ignoring them for so long. There’s only one way…that reflector needs to sit as low as possible. It needs to do the reflector limbo.

Maybe on my next one, I’ll open up the reflector so the MCPCB is entirely inside the reflector. I’m sure it’s been done already…anyone got a link?

Tom E
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I think your missing out on something. White wall beam pattern has never been all that good, but in practical use, the HD2010 is a great light. I've gifted and modded a few, and everyone seems to love the things. I prefer the Y3 now for the $$$, but still...

Ouchyfoot
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I like it now! It’s great. I only worked on one other and it never attained a beam pattern that was truly focused. Now I know what it needs. I’ll rebuild my first one and work on the third.

downlinx
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wow, just wow

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holy moly that is a great idea. How to you make sure the LED is centered? With my luck, I’d drill the holes barely in the wrong spot and the LED would be off center.

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I used a small file to flatten out the solder and wire.. Was thinking the same thing grant Smile

Ouchyfoot
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grantman321 wrote:
holy moly that is a great idea. How to you make sure the LED is centered? With my luck, I’d drill the holes barely in the wrong spot and the LED would be off center.

In this case, there was no centering to be done. The pill was exactly the size of a 20mm MCPCB. If this isn’t the case, you just put themal adhesive on the star, screw down the reflector until it’s centered and wait for it to dry. Then remove the reflector, and drill your holes.
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brilliant idea.  Now if I can just remember it next time I need it.

grantman321
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
grantman321 wrote:
holy moly that is a great idea. How to you make sure the LED is centered? With my luck, I’d drill the holes barely in the wrong spot and the LED would be off center.
In this case, there was no centering to be done. The pill was exactly the size of a 20mm MCPCB. If this isn’t the case, you just put themal adhesive on the star, screw down the reflector until it’s centered and wait for it to dry. Then remove the reflector, and drill your holes.

sweet. that’s sorta what I figured. I’m way too impatient when modding…. letting the adhesive dry before coming back to a project is hard. especially after already waiting for LEDs to dedome in gas.

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

Ouchyfoot
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Quote:
sweet. that’s sorta what I figured. I’m way too impatient when modding…. letting the adhesive dry before coming back to a project is hard. especially after already waiting for LEDs to dedome in gas.

That’s why I soldered the Noctigon to the pill. This project was an experiment that I decided to do one morning and wouldn’t have anymore time for another week.
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fellfromtree wrote:
I used a small file to flatten out the solder and wire.. Was thinking the same thing grant :)

 I've been preaching to everyone that micro shears are the best bang for your buck/ must-have tool of the century .This is exactly where I use them .. after soldering I just take a nice smooth bite out of the solder blob to make a nice flat landing pad for the reflector to sit down on. Using a file just seems like another way to accidently slip and take out the emitter.  

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Tom E
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Wait - what are micro shears? Got a link? Smile This sounds useful. I got a couple pairs of small cutters, not sure if it's the same thing?

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       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

Ouchyfoot
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Micro shears – side cutters – flush cutters.
You’ll find them under all those names. The ones at FastTech are pretty good. Relic praised them, so I got a pair. He said he used them for everything, even cutting sinkpads…I tried…don’t do that.

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Ahhh - ok, Yes I got a couple always handy - wire cutters and then some... Think I got the FT ones, and one other good pair.

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