Triple XP-L Convoy S2 MTN Edition BLF17DD Review

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RMM
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Yes, that one.  The wires included with any of my triples or FET drivers are long enough to use with an S2+ spacer without adding anything.  

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tyrblade
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This is awesome. Can someone please tell me…someone that has never done this before…if there is a noob step by step guide to making a light like this, or similar to this. Would like to try this but have no idea. Thanks in advance.

vresto
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question-do you give on optik also o ring?

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Turby3Pots
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No I didn’t.

vresto
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so i bought one…anyway-the fet driver,i used from astrolux did this-after maybe 30 seconds it dropped from fourth-turbo mode to the lowest…..i fought,it will drop to mid or high..is it normal? also -do you think,that the heatsink has sense? except the thing,that there you need something for the free space-under the star….

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Turby3Pots
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While I’m not sure about that exact driver, my triple does drop from 100% down to 25% brightness after 30 seconds.

And it does not sense temperature.

vresto
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well,i will test it again and again.anyway-i bought two triple stars xpl from KD..neutral and cool…and-they are almost the same colour..unlike the astrolux 1A and 3D xpls…they are pretty different.this not…sadly.resume is,that i think,convoy s2 is better host for this legendary mod,than BLF A6 host.next week i will try another host…will see.anyway,my far most beloved edc now.LOVEE IT Smile

EDC-Sofirn IF-25A Lh351d, Mezzol X8R-L xhp70 nw, Astrolux ST01 xhp50

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vresto
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https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002463/1311101-convoy-s4-diy-edc-l...
this could be also good adept for triple xpl modding?anyone tried?i think,this is better cooling..

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vresto
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http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_95...
please,can anyone,who has this spacer send details? parameters..thank you very very much

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What parameters? The dimensions are listed on the page. Also, the S4 is not a great candidate for a triple because of the slots in the head

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

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vresto
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aha.ok…i need to know how deep is the part inside the flashlite…the tinner part of it.how deep is it…
ok..s4 i will forget…:)

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vresto
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question-imr or unprotected…what is better for flashlightes like these?

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RMM
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vresto wrote:
question-imr or unprotected...what is better for flashlightes like these?

IMR is a chemistry.  Unprotected means no protection circuit.  IMR cells are usually unprotected, but they don't have to be.  

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vresto
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yes i know.but,what i better for flashlightes like triple xpl?for one cell

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RMM
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vresto wrote:
yes i know.but,what i better for flashlightes like triple xpl?for one cell

Depends on the LEDs, but for everyday use I typically like to use the 10A rated cells like the NCR18650GA or LG MH1/MJ1 because they have more capacity and the triples have a very low vF so they still run good.  If you want all the power you can get in short bursts, then use one of the super-high-drain batteries like the HE4/25R/30Q/HG2/etc.

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vresto
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well.my first triple xpl in BLF A6 gets problems…first-it started to smoke after few seconds in turbo…i dont know why….second-the wires disabled from the pcb..we used two kinds of the tin,used also soldering flux… but..is it posisble because the heat??:((
dont you have problems with your triple friends? btw-i bought the triple on board from kaidomain..not noctigon and i use aluminium spacer as a heatsink:)) its not from Richards website…could be this also the problem??

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RMM
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The smoke is the flux starting to burn.  This means that the MCPCB is getting way too hot.  When the wires desoldered from the PCB that means that you got it up to extreme temperatures.  Your heatsinking is very poor. 

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giorgoskok
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vresto wrote:
well.my first triple xpl in BLF A6 gets problems…first-it started to smoke after few seconds in turbo…i dont know why….second-the wires disabled from the pcb..we used two kinds of the tin,used also soldering flux… but..is it posisble because the heat??:(( dont you have problems with your triple friends? btw-i bought the triple on board from kaidomain..not noctigon and i use aluminium spacer as a heatsink:)) its not from Richards website…could be this also the problem??

Buy a triple noctigon ASAP
Once you get it in your hands , you will understand the difference .
Also , did you use thermal paste between the parts ?

khas
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Noctigon is a must for a triple.

jescereal
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Same as everyone else is saying: the aluminum board from kaidomain is not suited for high amps. Maybe swap in a different driver.

vresto
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yes i used thermal paste…but probably very cheap:) heatsink is alluminium….the same as many people use here.and maybe,the KD triple board is also the problem….cos i see,many people have this legendary triple and no problem…so something must the the error….thanks for all your kind advices friends:)

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vresto
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ok.people,now i understand…sadly,too late.could be using dedomed xpl making this project more throw? or-is there any other optic,which can make the triple more throw than the carclo we use?:)thanks

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vresto
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friends,where you buy triples xpl-s hi?.any other source than moutain?sadly,iam not able to reflow them self..

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finges
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Just try it, it is really easy. You can use your stovetop to reflow.

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http://intl-outdoor.com send him a pm ,he will make it for you.

vresto
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friends,how you made the tailcap visible?shining…stock is not shining right?

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There was some talk in here about components unsoldering and shorting in case of thermal protection failure. One suggestion was to use arctic alumina to pot the leads, largely rejected because of the temperature being too hot for the adhesive to work well. I wonder, how about using a high-temperature electroinsulating varnish? Probably won’t hold the leads in place, but should reduce the risk of a short…

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