isti242 wrote:

Adahn wrote:

isti242 wrote:

CH3504 small version and sheepfoot slipjoint:

Darn… that CH3504 is yelling Anodize me!

But maybe I’ll get a CH3001 and anodize it red-white-green for me dad or green-white-red for my co-worker…

By the way, does anybody know a place where I can find a list of all TwoSun models, available or out of stock?

We have a fine list of all Ganzo models on this forum but I have no success finding anything about TwoSun

Be careful with the red color! If you screw it up and make it orange you’ll have to find an Irish guy!

So much about anodizing

RFT D2 version by Lovocoo:

Spyderco Military in S90V with peel ply carbon fiber scale and titanium framelock.

Adahn wrote:

[By the way, does anybody know a place where I can find a list of all TwoSun models, available or out of stock?

We have a fine list of all Ganzo models on this forum but I have no success finding anything about TwoSun

I have tried to find details on TwoSun knives for years without any success, it doesn’t seem to be a “real” company, more of a name under which one or several manufacturers brand some of their products.
As always, I could be wrong though and someone better than me has had more success.

TwoSun TS07:

Blue Chips, is that Spyderco a frame lock or liner lock? I was looking really hard at the Military/Para Military for the S90V blade steel, didn’t see one with a Ti scale as a frame-lock or I may have taken the plunge…

isti, that RFT has a nicely shaped blade… seems someone missed something on that frame lock though, usually the lock side is thinned down to keep it from being too stout, they didn’t take the thinned section all the way out so it appears it might be pretty stiff to flex, is that the case?

Edit: What I like about the blade shape is that the Tanto style knives were originally made from a broken Samuai sword, using the remaining tip and retrofitting it to a new handle. This blade looks quite similar to my Katana, except for the grind of course. My Katana is convex ground. 28” of razor blade.

DB Custom wrote:

isti, that RFT has a nicely shaped blade… seems someone missed something on that frame lock though, usually the lock side is thinned down to keep it from being too stout, they didn’t take the thinned section all the way out so it appears it might be pretty stiff to flex, is that the case?

Edit: What I like about the blade shape is that the Tanto style knives were originally made from a broken Samuai sword, using the remaining tip and retrofitting it to a new handle. This blade looks quite similar to my Katana, except for the grind of course. My Katana is convex ground. 28” of razor blade.

The trick is that the real lock-bar relief is on the inside so it’s felxible as it should be.

Are those high-end katanas perfect razor sharp out of the box or do they need any touching up?
It took me almost 2 hours (and 3 beers ) from a #120 diamond to a #3000 ruby. It’s still not a perfect mirror finish but I’m getting closer:

This one is a competition class Katana, came literally razor sharp and has a little wooden box of sharpening materials, essentially a powder ball! They sharpen it with a dang cloth “sack” holding abrasive powder! Beats me, but that’s what the video showed the Master doing, all along the edge beating it with this little powder ball over and over and over in what must take forever! lol I’ve honed it on a leather strap to polish it a bit, but didn’t try the old school way.

Had a Rat Snake after my Labrador Retriever one day, stupid snake was seriously aggressive! I swung the sword, thought I’d missed as I didn’t feel anything make contact… snake’s head and about 2 inches of body were laying separate like a laser had cut him! His body tried crawling away! Cleanest cut I’ve ever seen, amazing stuff! (My dog went bezerk, wanted this thing bad!) [the snake, he wanted the snake]

I guess there’s some difference between usual shaving sharpness and that competition level sharpness.

Reprofiled my Koenig Arius to 17º and mirror finished edge, this is the CTS204 steel, was out mowing in the heat this morning and decided to cut the sleeves off my T shirt, blade slipped through the cotton material like a quality pair of sewing shears would, just effortless. Had to keep thinking it’d do my finger the same way if I got careless…

Air temp at 101º with a heat index around 106º

Bear Claw Flying Shark:

isti242 wrote:

TwoSun TS07:

Came here to look at some knives, now I can’t stop thinking about how good Pilsner Urquell is. Been many years since I’ve enjoyed one (many) of those. Can’t get it where I live now.

JackJax wrote:

isti242 wrote:

TwoSun TS07:

Came here to look at some knives, now I can’t stop thinking about how good Pilsner Urquell is. Been many years since I’ve enjoyed one (many) of those. Can’t get it where I live now.

I’m lucky because it’s quite abundant and inexpensive here. There are also a couple of places where you can find it on tap. Can’t you find anything similar in the American pilsner type craft beer offerings?

Enlan M08 frame-lock budget folder (here is my review). It would be quite hard to find any better deal out there with similar specs at the moment.

I currently reside in Utah. All beer here is limited to 3.2% unless I go to the state run liquor store. Which is overpriced.

JackJax wrote:

I currently reside in Utah. All beer here is limited to 3.2% unless I go to the state run liquor store. Which is overpriced.

I guess they would ask for a permit to buy this Gulden Draak (10.5%):

isti242 wrote:

CH3504 small version and sheepfoot slipjoint:

Eraursls1984 wrote:

isti242 wrote:

CH3504 small version and sheepfoot slipjoint:

What make and model is that sheepsfoot slipjoint?

I have a noname version but you can find it at GB labelled as “Fura Gear” here .

My new Fura Gear titanium flipper:

“usual shaving sharpness” is what Dundee demonstrate.

https://youtu.be/uF3y_ocbXfQ

DB Custom wrote:

Blue Chips, is that Spyderco a frame lock or liner lock? I was looking really hard at the Military/Para Military for the S90V blade steel, didn’t see one with a Ti scale as a frame-lock or I may have taken the plunge…

The Millie is a framelock. It actually has a SS insert for the ball detent which also functions as an overtravel stop that I thought was a nice touch. It’s an exclusive model only sold by knifeworks.com. When I saw it was down to only $199 I had to jump on it.

Sanrenmu should release an Adahn SE version like that!

Lovocoo SF001

isti242 wrote:

Sanrenmu should release an Adahn SE version like that!

Lovocoo SF001
!{width:100%}https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fDlTA_6ucg0/WzPkLtoS8fI/AAAAAAAAfWM/FmlbCIMkD...!

But I really like that little folder, too.

Today I’ve just reground the blade of a Fura Kwaiken, the one with the fat flat grind, rather a sharpened prybar than a knife.

Hollow grind is “easier” to do as I thought…

http://adahnsplace.blogspot.com/2018/06/fura-kwaiken-wip.html

@Isti I’ve seen your Ti pen and I’m wondering if there’s any titanium bolt pen where I can use the thin refills.

Or is there some kind of adaptor available?

Thing is I don’t really need a standard pen but I often use a silver pen on job to mark leather or EVA foam before cutting.

These refills are the old thin style and it’s always difficult to find a good pen for them

Adahn wrote:

@Isti I’ve seen your Ti pen and I’m wondering if there’s any titanium bolt pen where I can use the thin refills.

Or is there some kind of adaptor available?

Thing is I don’t really need a standard pen but I often use a silver pen on job to mark leather or EVA foam before cutting.

These refills are the old thin style and it’s always difficult to find a good pen for them

My titanium tac-pen uses standard Parker style refills (you know the thicker ones).

What did you use for the hollow regrind on that Fura kwaiken? The result looks nice.

isti242 wrote:

Adahn wrote:

@Isti I’ve seen your Ti pen and I’m wondering if there’s any titanium bolt pen where I can use the thin refills.

Or is there some kind of adaptor available?

Thing is I don’t really need a standard pen but I often use a silver pen on job to mark leather or EVA foam before cutting.

These refills are the old thin style and it’s always difficult to find a good pen for them

My titanium tac-pen uses standard Parker style refills (you know the thicker ones).

What did you use for the hollow regrind on that Fura kwaiken? The result looks nice.

And on that Fura blade I used a belt grinder on job with a maybe 20cm wheel, I can measure it later
I have no work rest that’s why I couldn’t make a straight hollow grind with a flat ground tip
The finest belt I have is 80 grit but after a good polish it’s not rough anymore (even though I’d prefer something like 200 at least)

I guess I’ll stonewash it later, I just must resist to grind it again to reduce some of the mistakes I made
From my I learned job that the trick is to stop when you can’t make it any better instead of continuing to make it worse

Now the blade swings much better than when it was a folding prybar

Adahn wrote:

Yeah, it’s easy to get pens for Parker refills but difficult for those lame old style thin refills
I thought there must be adaptors for that but I couldn’t find one

And on that Fura blade I used a belt grinder on job with a maybe 20cm wheel, I can measure it later
I have no work rest that’s why I couldn’t make a straight hollow grind with a flat ground tip
The finest belt I have is 80 grit but after a good polish it’s not rough anymore (even though I’d prefer something like 200 at least)

I guess I’ll stonewash it later, I just must resist to grind it again to reduce some of the mistakes I made
From my I learned job that the trick is to stop when you can’t make it any better instead of continuing to make it worse

Now the blade swings much better than when it was a folding prybar

Did you use some sort of jig for grinding?
Yes, it’s always good to know when to stop. I learnt that on my own.

Ganzo F713M today. It also begs for modding.