COURUI DO1 'Big Head' (Black/GRAY NOW AVAILABLE) $29.99 @ Gearbest ( use coupon: gbcourui) A long-throw modder's light!

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LinusHofmann
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NikolaS wrote:
I think that ring is not light bouncing off the inside of the front glass lens, rather the light reflects from the opening of the reflector because the LED in the line with him in this case, and considering that dedomed emitter is making 360 angle, it is most likely a reflection of the that opening. That is just my opinion…

I initially thought so too, and we may be talking about a different artifact entirely.
Just saying when I installed the Uclp AR coated lens it cut down that distinctive sharp ring around the hostpot so it’s almost invisible. It also made the remaining artifact less sharp. No other changes to the light.

I’ve seen it happen on other lights when upgrading to AR too but with the courui and the acrylic lens it was the most apparent. There’s quite a lot of light being bounced back into the reflector by your average glass lens and it has to go somewhere. The spill ring to the sides of the light are also cut down significantly when AR glass is installed, but that’s a more obvious and logical effect.

Has anyone else noticed beam differences after swapping out standard glass with AR?

NikolaS
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Of course that AR lens make a significant difference, here can be seen what is the difference between stock Courui and Acebeam K40M AR lens..

LinusHofmann
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Yeah but specifically how it affects the beam artefacts is interesting. Does the Acebeam have a moonlight mode? That can be really useful to study how different parts of the reflector and lens contribute towards the final image.

For example on my courui with the AR acrylic lens, the images seen in the reflector have two distinct colours. Straight LED colour for any light that has simply hit the reflector once and exited the light. And deep purple/blue images for light that must have rebounded off the inside of the lens (hence the colour cast) and then been reflected a second time by the reflector. If you move the light around while looking in the front you can see how those two factors interplay to form some of the artefacts.

Then by specifically looking at the light from the angle that you would expect to see the ring artefact (if the ring forms at 15degrees then study what the reflector image looks like over that angle range). Essentially you want to look at the light from that angle and see what could be contributing towards that artefact.
The ring I’m talking about starts just before the corona begins to fade in, so look at the light from that angle and see what jumps out at you.

In my light I don’t see any light hitting the rim of the reflector that could be contributing to a ring artefact around the hostspot. I do however see a distinct image coverging/forming in deep blue right around the angle that I saw the ring artefact. Before the AR lens that secondary image would be A: Much brighter and B: The same tint as the primary bounces.
So in that case it’s very hard to tell them apart.

I’m not saying that’s exactly what is going on in your light, maybe it’s something completely different contributing to the effect you see. But this is a really good way of finding out, also you could try the light without the lens in place and see if the ring is still there. Would definitely rule out any involvement the lens may have.

It’s quite fascinating how the different parts of the reflector and lens interact, moon modes rock! Smile

I submit my suspect for consideration. I tried to make a video but my phone wasn’t having it. Silly

Likely culprit marked in red in this image. Smile
It’s very blue, so that means the light has to have hit the lens at some point. Also as you move your head towards the center of the hostpot this image forms and then disappears again quickly, exactly what you would expect to form a ring shaped artefact in the beam. Gradual changes in the images seen produce gradual and smooth beam artefacts so all of those can be eliminated.
Finally it’s likely the brightest blue artefact there, though again because of the AR coating it is significantly dimmer than the parts contributing towards the main beam corona. See if you can spot something like this in your light. Hunt that ring! Smile

tatasal
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1100 + METER SHOT WITH COURUI ! ! ! by NikolaS

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/38691

boofarino
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hi Tatasal, I was suggested that these are great lights and escpecially good modded. I was wondering if you would give me some pointers on modding one of these if i bought one?

tatasal
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boofarino wrote:
hi Tatasal, I was suggested that these are great lights and escpecially good modded. I was wondering if you would give me some pointers on modding one of these if i bought one?

Hello,
Kindly take look at the op of this thread and you will find ALL the mod threads done by our fellow members at the bottom part. Thanks

boofarino
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awesome ty

Sirius9
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I would like to buy this FL but you have to invest almost $30 into proper copper pill, kinda sucks… Flat Stare

 

LinusHofmann
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Sirius9 wrote:
I would like to buy this FL but you have to invest almost $30 into proper copper pill, kinda sucks… Flat Stare

Well, that’s not really the case, my original Courui still uses the stock pill (no additional mass or anything) and the performance is totally fine. The copper pills are awesome but I wouldn’t call them absolutely essential. If you get into seriously maximizing throw figures to the last lux and are determined to do runtime performance graphing then sure, copper is the way to go. But then if that’s your goal I don’t think you’d worry about spending the extra on the pill Smile

Heat sag isn’t really that much of a problem even though the design of the stock shelf is not optimal.

Just order one of those filter ring adapters to firmly retain the shelf and do as much as you can with thermal paste/fujik or aluminium/copper foil to maximize the interface. Should be more than fine.
You could also use liberal amounts of something like JBweld to keep the shelf in place once you’ve adjusted the focus. All of these things will help shed the heat from the shelf.

A large copper pcb like the maxtoch 32mm is also a good idea to beef things up as well. It basically doubles the thermal mass of the shelf, lol Smile

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Sirius9 wrote:
I would like to buy this FL but you have to invest almost $30 into proper copper pill, kinda sucks… Flat Stare

Not necessarily. I’ve been thinking, and you can potentially do something similar to what O-L did here but use a smaller copper “slug” in the center connected to copper plate backing the pill.
And yes what LinusHofmann said is very true.

-Clark

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OL did some serious work over there. Original pill doesn’t have to be changed, that’s true but it is the weakest point of this light and for this light to be impressive pill has to be replaced. I would really like to make one by myself but unfortunately only tools that I have are dremel and basic drill (most of my drill bits are for wood, have some for concrete but not for metal), no late, no drill press (very useful tool), I don’t have copper sheets or copper pipes, I have some small pieces of copper rods (20mm and 25mm dia x 25mm length) but they are extremely hard to cut with dremel, warm up crazy fast and I don’t have anything else to cut them with. I think that most people that buy them do so because they don’t have proper tools to make them.

Anyway I don’t see anyone using this light in stock form, without modification and we all know that modification (mostly in parts) can cost more than the light itself.
I will have to spend some more time studying available modification threads to see what needs to be done and what can be done with limited resources and then decide, but the gray one looks really nice Smile

 

LinusHofmann
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Sirius9 wrote:
Anyway I don’t see anyone using this light in stock form, without modification and we all know that modification (mostly in parts) can cost more than the light itself.

If you mean changing driver and led then sure, I don’t put much praise in the stock components.
However you mentioned the cost of a copper pill as the thing that is putting you off.
I definitely wouldn’t put a copper pill at the top of the list of required changes. Again my original courui uses a bone stock pill shelf (don’t intend on getting a copper pill for it) and is running an xml2 at 6Amps, I mainly only interested in the copper pill because I ended up running a much hotter led in the setup. (Sbt-70 14Amps = ~50watts vs XML2 6Amps = max ~25watts)

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I just got mine. It’ll be getting a new emitter and driver, and that’s it. No plans to buy a copper pill either.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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LinusHofmann wrote:
I mainly only interested in the copper pill because I ended up running a much hotter led in the setup. (Sbt-70 14Amps = ~50watts vs XML2 6Amps = max ~25watts)

Oh that’s nice, do you have a build thread, I would like to see how you mounted SBT inside, more particularly have you modified reflector, I am looking for best solution for my luminus PT54 build. Thought I would use TN31 but grinding that reflector would be an abomination Smile

 

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Lol

Linus’ Courui is barely recognizable.

The link is in his signature.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Lol

Linus’ Courui is barely recognizable.

The link is in his signature.


Ah yes, now I remembered that I saw that thread several times, subscribed actually Smile
Well there goes my dream, up in flames Silly

 

realista
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could someone suggest me a different( more powerful) driver for this flashlight that i own?
is preferable to change the original xm-l2 with a new one improved quality or bin ?

LinusHofmann
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Sirius9 wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
Lol

Linus’ Courui is barely recognizable.

The link is in his signature.


Ah yes, now I remembered that I saw that thread several times, subscribed actually Smile
Well there goes my dream, up in flames Silly

The next sbt-70 is going into a slightly more conventional Courui, designed around the 86mm kaidomain reflector.
That’s a good option with a large 20mm opening especially useful for large emitters. Bit of a beast to fit into a host but if you don’t want to take a hacksaw to an existing one it’s a good option.

Urgh, I have too many projects ongoing at the moment I haven’t had time to upload any threads. But I’m optimistic for the performance of this combination and it should be a relatively straight forward mod for others to do if they want to make use of this great reflector in a Courui.

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Linus, what is that head from that you are using? Please post.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

LinusHofmann
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scottyhazzard wrote:
Linus, what is that head from that you are using? Please post.

It’s just a stock courui head with two interlocking lens hoods stacked on top. A 77mm and an 82mm hood from ebay. The front will be finished off with an 86mm multicoated UV filter.
Going with this setup will require taking a little bit off the O/D (~1mm) off the reflector to make it fit, alternatively I have a third stage lens hood (86mm) that I can add and make it work with the raw reflector but requires a 95mm UCLp lens and filter ring 95-86mm step down adapter ring to finish off the front.

The hoods and things are pretty cheap and available on ebay, I’ll post something up with specific parts once I’ve had a chance to assemble it all. Don’t want to recommend specific parts until I know they are compatible.

Oh and just to be clear, you would also need to build a pedestal on top of the shelf/pill to raise the emitter some to meet up with the reflector.

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That sounds great. Looking forward to it.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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This looks very cool Linus Smile i look forward to see what performance result you will get.

I have been craving a big reflector light for some modding adventures, but i can’t justify buying one of those big expensive reflector light just to rip it apart to get me a host, it is not enough BLF for me Big Smile but this looks the most promising idea yet.

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Did some work on the light today removing some material from the reflector to make it fit into the compact configuration (2x hoods + uv filter lens)

Here’s after the first assembly.

The reflector is a beast, though it doesn’t have the most perfectly smooth mirror finish. A very slight OP surface can be seen here.
I have yet to see how it performs in this config but this feature/flaw may make it a good option for an mt-g2 or similar just to help smooth over the honeycomb artefacts slightly. Just a thought, I’m sure it will also produce a very respectable beam with a normal die.

The UV filter and lens on the front: This is a really cheap UV filter but has what it claims is a multiband AR coating. Multiband? Hmm, probably not. But it definitely knocks down the reflections and the unusual green bias has the added benefit of counteracting the green tint shift seen from a dedomed cree led. So this may not be a bad option at all.

Still waiting on some parts to do a working assembly of the full light (led will be an sbt-70), but so far everything is lining up nicely. I like! Smile

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This new Courui mod added to the combined mod threads in the op of this thread:

Courui D01 Fitted with 86mm kaidomain reflector. (No lathe required, mostly off the shelf parts)

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/39119 by LinusHofmann

cajampa
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That looks really great Linus Smile

To bad it has an slight OP finish, i hope it doesn’t limit throw to much.

Cool about that anti green coating, that could fit great with the newly released XM-L2 U4 1C dedomed, i was worried it could get very green dedomed.

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I received 3 Grey Courui’s yesterday, and one will not turn on, the same batteries powered up the other two, so I think the driver is bad, possibly the switch? I’m dealing with GearBest now, let’s see how it will be handled? The lights(all 3) are typically dirty inside and out. The reflectors show pitting but it looks like it was there before the Vap Coating was applied. GearBest order #WW1504201453507112. Out of the 6 I have got recently, really only one was what I would call very good?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

LinusHofmann
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I received 3 Grey Courui’s yesterday, and one will not turn on, the same batteries powered up the other two, so I think the driver is bad, possibly the switch? I’m dealing with GearBest now, let’s see how it will be handled? The lights(all 3) are typically dirty inside and out. The reflectors show pitting but it looks like it was there before the Vap Coating was applied. GearBest order #WW1504201453507112. Out of the 6 I have got recently, really only one was what I would call very good?

I haven’t seen a gray one yet, but I also get the feeling that the quality of the recent batches from Gearbest is on a general downward trend.
The latest black one I received had some generally sharper/rougher machining on the battery tube and worn anodizing on parts of the knurling. The head and reflector also shows signs of being of a lower general quality though no hazing this time.
Anodizing colour is also inconsistent between the last two I ordered, one is a deep black and the more recent one slightly gray.

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GearBest has come thru on this by sending another light for $6.00 for shipping, thanks GearBest! Hopefully this one will be clean and working? Thanks Angelia!!!

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

tatasal
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New, great mod contribution for 625 Kcd, by FmC:

Courui + 86mm KD reflector + camera parts; Say Cheese!! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/39669

tatasal
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Another great mod contribution of the Courui DO1 has been added by member Cula:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/39791 (this thread now added in the op)

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