Will protected 10400's fit in an ITP A3 or do they need to be unprotected? I'm going to order a couple soon so a definitive answer would be appreciated :)
The grey protected Trustfire 10440 do NOT fit in! I don't have unprotected 10440 to test.
Thanks! I went back and measured some primary aaa's and then looked at the sizes of protected 10440's and unprotected and went for the unprotected.
No, protected doesnt fit. ALWAYS use unprotected
Yep, protected ones only fit to 2x AAA lights (with spacer) :D
The only light I have to even consider using these on is the A3. I'll probably use lithium primary or nimh most of the time but I couldn't resist trying this out since there is enough evidence out there from others that it will work :)
Do 14500 single batteries used to replace a single AA usually have to be unprotected as well?
I have a Sipik SK68 coming that I was going to try a 14500 in. Does that need to be unprotected as well?
No, my sipik clone fits protected 14500's. (flames)
That works out well. I ordered protected 14500's when I ordered the Sipik and then later thought about the A3 (asked here first) and then put in a second order just for the unprotected 10400's. I was willing to put in a third order for unprotected 14500's if necessary but wanted to ask here first :)
Thanks.
I'm using a protected 10440 in my A3. I removed the rear spring inside the body and inserted a tiny piece of coarse steel wool in its place for contact and springy action. Keychain Rocket!
an incredible amount of light with a 10440 ( i use unprotected also). not too shabby at all with a primary or a nimh either!
Yeah, I'm quite happy with it as it is. I was already placing an order for some other things and was curious as to what it would be like running it on a 10440. Mine is the XP-E version (or whatever it is) rather than the XP-G so for a little light it already has throw and I just wanted to see what it would be like with a little more throw!
is always better
Im about to go noooklyRer on mine.
I have the A3 Upgraded with R5 ive been running a 1.7v Lithium primary with, But i just ordered some 10440 IMR cells.
SOMEONE PLEASE STOP ME IF THIS WILL KILL MY LIGHT! Well who cares it gives me reason to fit new parts in it if need be.
In all honesty this is my EDC that fits on my knife pouch held in place by elastic the pouch uses. I think its 95 lumens on a AA so im pushing 100 lumens if im lucky with the Lithium cell.
But i have no experience in how IMR cells deliver power and when it can be taken advantage of, It should be bright as heck just getting 4.2v but the amp delivery may boost it some more.
I tested the head like you would the tailcap since there is none for amperage and got 1A out of it. If the IMR is used id expect that to double which may be enough to fry and R5 wouldn't it? I know 1.5A is the sweet spot for that emitter.
Do they make 7mm XM-L 3A drivers yet? lol
But seriously i may have to put an XM-L in it if 2A kills the emitter, But i think the driver will smoke first. Luckily im pretty handy with a soldering gun and you guys can help me fix what i fry if the driver nose dives.
(Edit) I better start looking for a spare as i have a sinking feeling. I love this as an edc as i never even know its there and 100 lumens isnt nothing to sneeze at, Especially when you don't even notice it.
I don't have the answer to your IMR question. Regarding your measuring 1A where batteries were you using? If it was an AAA then that 1A isn't what the emitter is seeing. If you were using a 10400 then it may be close.
As i said my light is the "Upgraded" R5 version, And i am using Energizer Lithium primary cells at 1.7v and if you read what i said i took a reading like you would a tailcap reading is done. Thats pretty much the standard as not many people are willing to unsolder their emitter to take an amp reading.
Now im not sure if ITP uses different driver configurations, But i think they would as 1A is pushing an XP-E to its limit. The R5 can do 1.5A easily also.
Just to be sure ill redo it and check it again. But if im right im afraid with the IMR cell the driver if it lives very well could push 2A to the emitter and possibly toast that. But people everywhere report they have no issues.
Ok i was wrong, Im sorry about that. But i wasnt off by too much. Mine is pushing .80A as it sits.
Thats better news as 4.2v would mean about 1.6A with the IMR cell.
My only point was that the battery draw with a 1.5V (or 1.7V) battery is going to be different than with a 4.2 V battery. The emitter in your present setup isn't seeing 1A when you measure 1A at the battery (otherwise the output presently would be 200 lumens or more).
I'm no expert at electronics so if you are just ignore my comments (and/or correct me) :)
i know for sure a fully charge li-ion does not kill it. i don't know about an imr. estimated lumens by those much more expert than i, (don) is around 220 at start up and over 180 after 30 secs, off the top of my head, and it seems about right to me. you will for sure need gloves if you ever manage an xm-l, because it gets hot in a hurry as it.
Well, I don't know about IMR's but with a regular 3.7v li-ion (blue Ultrafires), my A3's head gets uncomfortably hot after 30 secs. And that's only if it's at room temp. If it's been in my pocket, it only takes 15- 20 secs. So I only use nimh's in my A3.