I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.
Yeah, DBCstm explaind it right, sorry for not responding earlier
I had that LD1 issue in Y3 host, and solved it with just a tiny piece of Cu( from a damaged 20mm Cu XML star PCB)
Would someone be so kind to point out where one can get suitable driver brass pillars? Back in 2013 i ordered some from FT, it was for an audio preamp project, they are out of stock atm…for maybe a year already
agarb, I just used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and glued it in place on top of the 4 chips. Pressed down firmly to ensure a thin layer between the copper and top of the chip, with enough ooze to firmly adhere it in place. Could also completely pot it with the copper on the heat source.
I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.
Would 3/16” brass brazing rod for gas welding work? Some of you guys might have to find someone who welds that uses rod that size and get some nubbins.
subscribed hoping it’ll be posted here when the new ones are for sale
—
Three tomatoes are walking down the street- a poppa tomato, a momma tomato, and a little baby tomato. Baby tomato starts lagging behind. Poppa tomato gets angry, goes over to the baby tomato, and smooches him… and says, Catch up.
I need an advice: for the 18650 flashlights, LD 1 driver and batteries
How does LG D1 4.35v one perform over VTC5 and Samsung 25r? Is there any point in getting them? Never tested D1 before…
As for 26650 LD1 based lights, i `ve found that :
KP IMR 4200 Black> Efest IMR 3500 Purple > Efest IMR 4200 Green > KingKong 4200 from FT> Trustfire 5000 Protected, the difference between first 3 isnt that big btw
Low temp solder bond- no risk at all
I have one of the drivers re-springed like 7 times( i have realtively steady hand), its very well made indeed( the driver), and it seems a higher temp solder paste was used when it was made
Here, A type spring plus 22 awg soft silicone wire is the best, believe me, i tried everything, its better even over brass or CU pills
Tested it with a Cu pill cut from a 6mm Cu rod bought from Practiker store nearby – cut it, then machine sand it , yet the spring is better, maybe the CU wasnt pure enough…definately not oxygen free like a quality wire…(if you find a silver plated wire- the better)…maybe a high quality rod will do, wonder where to find those
I have the vague recollection that some popular mod lights have been mentioned as being suitable — or not — for use of this driver.
Maybe one warning that it could overheat the driver.
Anyone recall any specifics about lights to use, or to avoid, for this one?
(C’mon, convince me I need several more lights … or not …)
I have three of these I ordered from the second batch and I haven’t used them. I don’t expect I will as I have designed a bunch of my own drivers. My own designs are nowhere near as advanced as these but I prefer to use my own designs in my own lights, so I’ll sell the three I bought for the same price ($14.9 each) plus shipping, but only sell all three together.
They are unused, haven’t tested them or even taken them out of the board they came in.
I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.
DBCstm, How did you attach the copper to the chips?
http://intl-outdoor.com/brass-pill-62mm-a-pair-p-327.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/brass-pill-61mm-a-pair-p-326.html
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
agarb, I just used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and glued it in place on top of the 4 chips. Pressed down firmly to ensure a thin layer between the copper and top of the chip, with enough ooze to firmly adhere it in place.
Could also completely pot it with the copper on the heat source.
Would 3/16” brass brazing rod for gas welding work? Some of you guys might have to find someone who welds that uses rod that size and get some nubbins.
Which gets really boring. – Tuomas Holopainen, 2015
subscribed hoping it’ll be posted here when the new ones are for sale
Three tomatoes are walking down the street- a poppa tomato, a momma tomato, and a little baby tomato. Baby tomato starts lagging behind. Poppa tomato gets angry, goes over to the baby tomato, and smooches him… and says, Catch up.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Waiting for restock.
I need an advice: for the 18650 flashlights, LD 1 driver and batteries
How does LG D1 4.35v one perform over VTC5 and Samsung 25r? Is there any point in getting them? Never tested D1 before…
As for 26650 LD1 based lights, i `ve found that :
KP IMR 4200 Black> Efest IMR 3500 Purple > Efest IMR 4200 Green > KingKong 4200 from FT> Trustfire 5000 Protected, the difference between first 3 isnt that big btw
<3.5Amps -LG D1 is best 18650 cell overall,which is impressive considering that D1 is several years old
>3.5Amps -power cells (if you want max. currents for short period of time)
led4power.com
How hard, or risky, is it to attach a spring or little brass contact bump to these boards?
What’s the best way?
Low temp solder bond- no risk at all
I have one of the drivers re-springed like 7 times( i have realtively steady hand), its very well made indeed( the driver), and it seems a higher temp solder paste was used when it was made
Here, A type spring plus 22 awg soft silicone wire is the best, believe me, i tried everything, its better even over brass or CU pills
Why should it be better than a cu pill?
Tested it with a Cu pill cut from a 6mm Cu rod bought from Practiker store nearby – cut it, then machine sand it , yet the spring is better, maybe the CU wasnt pure enough…definately not oxygen free like a quality wire…(if you find a silver plated wire- the better)…maybe a high quality rod will do, wonder where to find those
Any updates? Id love to buy some from you.
Review: 150 Million Candlepower Military Xenon Arc Battlefield Illuminator (AN/VSS-3A)
My new collection of 50+ Chinese knives
Patient you must be.
led4power.com
Is there a picture showing exactly where to solder on the red and black wires?
EDIT nevermind, I found it: http://i58.tinypic.com/2hyz77l.jpg
in the other thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34800
Wonder what type of 26650 battery to use with LD-1 driver?
Here, a small tip
want :bigsmile:
Padawan impatient, resist the dark side he must.
Which gets really boring. – Tuomas Holopainen, 2015
Any updates? Please… oh, please… :bigsmile: can I buy some soon?
Review: 150 Million Candlepower Military Xenon Arc Battlefield Illuminator (AN/VSS-3A)
My new collection of 50+ Chinese knives
I’m also waiting………and waiting……………….. 0:)
I have one left that I will sell. I will include shipping and will only ship to USA as int’l is too much hassle. Will take bids by PM.
ill pay u what u paid for it
I’ll pay ten cents more! :bigsmile:
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I have the vague recollection that some popular mod lights have been mentioned as being suitable — or not — for use of this driver.
Maybe one warning that it could overheat the driver.
Anyone recall any specifics about lights to use, or to avoid, for this one?
(C’mon, convince me I need several more lights … or not …)
PM sent
Subscribed for availability updates.
So, how about second batch?
Also subscribing
I have three of these I ordered from the second batch and I haven’t used them. I don’t expect I will as I have designed a bunch of my own drivers. My own designs are nowhere near as advanced as these but I prefer to use my own designs in my own lights, so I’ll sell the three I bought for the same price ($14.9 each) plus shipping, but only sell all three together.
They are unused, haven’t tested them or even taken them out of the board they came in.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/akrylamid/
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