FS: LD-1 driver (5Amp pwm-less linear)-SOLD

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DB Custom
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I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.

agarb
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DBCstm, How did you attach the copper to the chips?

DBCstm wrote:

I stuck a piece of copper on the 7135 chips in this MT-G2 mod back in August of 2013. Seems to have worked, the lights still working…

wight
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Mitko wrote:
Yeah, DBCstm explaind it right, sorry for not responding earlier
I had that LD1 issue in Y3 host, and solved it with just a tiny piece of Cu( from a damaged 20mm Cu XML star PCB)

Would someone be so kind to point out where one can get suitable driver brass pillars? Back in 2013 i ordered some from FT, it was for an audio preamp project, they are out of stock atm…for maybe a year already

IOS carries 6×2mm and 6×1mm brass posts:
http://intl-outdoor.com/brass-pill-62mm-a-pair-p-327.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/brass-pill-61mm-a-pair-p-326.html

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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agarb, I just used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and glued it in place on top of the 4 chips. Pressed down firmly to ensure a thin layer between the copper and top of the chip, with enough ooze to firmly adhere it in place. Smile Could also completely pot it with the copper on the heat source.

Jubeldum
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DBCstm wrote:
I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.

Would 3/16” brass brazing rod for gas welding work? Some of you guys might have to find someone who welds that uses rod that size and get some nubbins.

n10sivern
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subscribed hoping it’ll be posted here when the new ones are for sale

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GnR
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led4power wrote:

RaceR86 wrote:

Do you sell expander boards now? Or plan on selling them soon?

No,maybe next year:)

HAPPY NEW YEAR! Laughing

 

Waiting for restock. Smile

Mitko
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I need an advice: for the 18650 flashlights, LD 1 driver and batteries

How does LG D1 4.35v one perform over VTC5 and Samsung 25r? Is there any point in getting them? Never tested D1 before…

As for 26650 LD1 based lights, i `ve found that :

KP IMR 4200 Black> Efest IMR 3500 Purple > Efest IMR 4200 Green > KingKong 4200 from FT> Trustfire 5000 Protected, the difference between first 3 isnt that big btw

led4power
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<3.5Amps -LG D1 is best 18650 cell overall,which is impressive considering that D1 is several years old

>3.5Amps -power cells (if you want max. currents for short period of time)

hank
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How hard, or risky, is it to attach a spring or little brass contact bump to these boards?
What’s the best way?

Mitko
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Low temp solder bond- no risk at all
I have one of the drivers re-springed like 7 times( i have realtively steady hand), its very well made indeed( the driver), and it seems a higher temp solder paste was used when it was made

Here, A type spring plus 22 awg soft silicone wire is the best, believe me, i tried everything, its better even over brass or CU pills

finges
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Why should it be better than a cu pill?

Mitko
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Tested it with a Cu pill cut from a 6mm Cu rod bought from Practiker store nearby – cut it, then machine sand it , yet the spring is better, maybe the CU wasnt pure enough…definately not oxygen free like a quality wire…(if you find a silver plated wire- the better)…maybe a high quality rod will do, wonder where to find those

FlashPilot
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Any updates? Id love to buy some from you.

led4power
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Patient you must be.Wink

hank
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Is there a picture showing exactly where to solder on the red and black wires?

EDIT nevermind, I found it: http://i58.tinypic.com/2hyz77l.jpg

in the other thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34800

Mitko
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Wonder what type of 26650 battery to use with LD-1 driver?

Here, a small tip

netprince
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want :bigsmile:

Jubeldum
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led4power wrote:

Patient you must be.Wink

Padawan impatient, resist the dark side he must.

FlashPilot
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led4power wrote:

Patient you must be.Wink

Any updates? Please… oh, please… :bigsmile: can I buy some soon?

Anonym
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I’m also waiting………and waiting……………….. 0:)

agarb
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I have one left that I will sell. I will include shipping and will only ship to USA as int’l is too much hassle. Will take bids by PM.

nitro
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agarb wrote:
I have one left that I will sell. I will include shipping and will only ship to USA as int'l is too much hassle. Will take bids by PM.

 

ill pay u what u paid for it Smile

DavidEF
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nitro wrote:

agarb wrote:
I have one left that I will sell. I will include shipping and will only ship to USA as int’l is too much hassle. Will take bids by PM.

 

ill pay u what u paid for it Smile


I’ll pay ten cents more! :bigsmile:

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hank
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I have the vague recollection that some popular mod lights have been mentioned as being suitable — or not — for use of this driver.
Maybe one warning that it could overheat the driver.

Anyone recall any specifics about lights to use, or to avoid, for this one?

(C’mon, convince me I need several more lights … or not …)

Sarge930
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PM sent

shimey
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Subscribed for availability updates.

Sirius9
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So, how about second batch?

 

Corin
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Also subscribing Smile

Mike C
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I have three of these I ordered from the second batch and I haven’t used them. I don’t expect I will as I have designed a bunch of my own drivers. My own designs are nowhere near as advanced as these but I prefer to use my own designs in my own lights, so I’ll sell the three I bought for the same price ($14.9 each) plus shipping, but only sell all three together.

They are unused, haven’t tested them or even taken them out of the board they came in.

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