What 2*26650 flashlight host for a Direct Drive MTG2 build? Set-Screws for 16mm or 20mm board? Screw down heatsink?

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Bigchelis
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What 2*26650 flashlight host for a Direct Drive MTG2 build? Set-Screws for 16mm or 20mm board? Screw down heatsink?

Hi all,
I have a 2D Mag with a heatsink already, but wanted to see what else is there.

What 2*26650 flashlight host for a Direct Drive MTG2 build? Set-Screws for 16mm or 20mm board? Screw down heatsink?

reflector or aspheric or mule….whatever is ok.

I mainly want a heatsink that I can screw out.

thank you,
bigC

ohaya
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Bigchelis
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ohaya wrote:
You could get a Yezl Y3 with an extension tube.

http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_68858.html

http://www.gearbest.com/diy-parts-and-tools/pp_70266.html

OK…that Yezl Y3 with extention appears to be exactly what I was looking for.

I read through the thread on simply swapping an MTG2 and using the stock Yezl Y3 driver too.

I read it generates 4A at tailcap with stock MTG2, which I assume was with 8.4V input and the driver is capable of this I assume?

Thank you,
bigC

willie
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Don’t forget the discount codes! Be sure to order items separately to get the discounts on both flashlight and tube as only one code can be used at a time.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33637
Gj
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Those extensions also fit HD2010's, at least I haven't heard of any they didn't fit so far.

downlinx
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I have a yezl y3 and mt-g2 with a custom CK driver. you are gonna love the y3 with an mt-g2

BLF Community Battery Pull Thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32720

Bigchelis
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downlinx wrote:
I have a yezl y3 and mt-g2 with a custom CK driver. you are gonna love the y3 with an mt-g2

With the stock driver did you ever run the MTG2 if so, what was your tailcap current? 3A? 6A?

I am definitely using the stock driver or direct drive only.

Thanks,
bigC

Cereal_killer
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I could set you up with the same driver I used in DL’s. It’s a direct swap, no more difficult than the emitter swap & wiring it direct drive…

It’s a “direct drive” FET driver with a combo tail clicky / side button UI. I’m interested in getting them into more lights, it’s a new driver but is heavily tested. Thing is only a handful of people are using them thus far, it’s all open source so the more people using it and providing feedback the better for the community.

Since its a DD driver the current is limited only by the cells and the resistance in the path’s (so same with true direct drive you’ll need to ensure the springs are bypassed and have good high amp IMR cells for max brightness). Depending on your cells and how well you can increase the current path (don’t forget the tail switch it’s self) you’ll see around 10+A (I can turn this down for you in the code if it’s to high)

Think about it.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Bigchelis
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Cereal_killer wrote:
I could set you up with the same driver I used in DL’s. It’s a direct swap, no more difficult than the emitter swap & wiring it direct drive…

It’s a “direct drive” FET driver with a combo tail clicky / side button UI. I’m interested in getting them into more lights, it’s a new driver but is heavily tested. Thing is only a handful of people are using them thus far, it’s all open source so the more people using it and providing feedback the better for the community.

Since its a DD driver the current is limited only by the cells and the resistance in the path’s (so same with true direct drive you’ll need to ensure the springs are bypassed and have good high amp IMR cells for max brightness). Depending on your cells and how well you can increase the current path (don’t forget the tail switch it’s self) you’ll see around 10+A (I can turn this down for you in the code if it’s to high)

Think about it.

Ok…so the factory Switch is kinda like those Lamdalights Varapower switches in that the driver is direct drive yet it still offers multiple modes?

I was hoping I could just swap the XML in place of the MTG2 and have magically around 5A via IMR 26650 KeepPower’s.

bigC

Cereal_killer
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No, the factory switches are just normal (tail is a standard clicky that cut’s power, side is a typical momentary push button that provides a simple GND signal to the driver’s MCU which based on the timing and number of clicks does different things). A “dd” driver is a driver with no regulator, it’s simple a MOSFET (which is like a logic controlled relay but with no electromechanical parts) controlled by an MCU and with just a couple other components for the very simple circuit to run. It can be fully on, in which it only adds a few mohm’s of resistance in line, so its about 99% as much power as hooking the cell straight to the LED, but it can be PWM’d to provide modes and do strobe and such which obviously direct drive cant do.

5A off a pair of KP 5200’s is no problem, those cells can easily do twice that, infact hooking them up direct drive WILL do much much higher than that, if you dont want a straight up monster (which can quickly get to hot to hold and even so hot it burns its self up) true direct drive is not the way to go.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Rod911
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For a good mix of flood and throw with an MT-G2, I think the Dipper D19 (Convoy L2 clone) beats the Yezl Y3.

I have built an MT-G2 in a Yezl Y3 using the default driver, no other mods, and it is floody. The D19 build, not built yet, will be using a resistor modded LD-40 to around 4A.

syracuse
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Rod911 wrote:
The D19 build, not built yet, will be using a resistor modded LD-40 to around 4A.

My LD-40 has noticeable PWM in LOW and MEDIUM modes. It also has annoying whine. Tired

Bigchelis
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Hi all,

Just an update for all you and thank all of you on this site for the great info and advice. A lot of reading and discoveries.

So, I ended up doing my MTG2 direct drive build with great success in a 2D Maglite w/LED stock deep reflector.

The IMR 26650 keepowers fit perfect with shorter tailcap spring. Simple 1in PVC tube cut to hold the cells in place.

I got a flat universal heatsink and this puppy pulls 4.5A at the tailcap. This is with stock switch and no resistance addressed on stock Maglite switch yet.

Side note: I do have a JaxZ1 zoom light with zener mod and 2*26650’s and it pulls on high mode 4A at tailcap. However this light appears around 50% less bright than my direct drive Maglite build. I figure the Aspheric is at fault here and perhaps this JaxZ1 is better suited with a XPG2 or something like that.

Best to all,
bigC