Olight M3X clone : Fandyfire STL-V6 is good! Measurements inside

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amraspalantir
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thanks for the info 2100. btw sent you a PM.kinda off-topic but related.:)

W30,K70,sc600w, Aspheric DBS V3, Sanmak 5500 HID,Costco HID, TK-40 and my reliable FJ-40. 

Andi
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I got mine.

Yeah, C8 Body fits well. Cool

In original Version (2x18650):

@High = 1,38A

@1m = ~38500 lux

 

With C8 Body (1x18650) and a 3,9A Driver:

@High = 3,9A

@1m = ~45000 lux

 

2100
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Hi Andi, nice to hear that C8 tube fits well.  For those who do not wish to change the driver, just operate in 2 x 18350 mode, the BIO IMR 18350 are cheap and have high capacity of at least 900mAh as tested by quite a few of us (specs is just 800mAh).

Btw, do measure your lights at over 10m. We recently found out that closer readings, even 5m ones, could very inaccurate for a lot of lights.

 

Finally did 50m range measurement. 20.0 lux @ 50m, 50k candelas.  (tailcap 1.36A).

 

Andi
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STL-C8:

STL-C8

Now with UCLp Lens @1m = 48000 lux.

 

Andi
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As Body i used THIS C8, Body is 0,5-1mm wider than other C8´s.

Now i realized, that the Pill of this C8 is also bigger....outside diameter 30mm (like the heatsink of the STL-V6).

I had to rasp a little bit of the thread and it fit´s also perfect, now i have a XML U2 inside.

Bezel has more pressure on o-ring, but it´s closing 100%.

 

2100
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Hey Andi, where did you get the UCL lens of 59mm size? 

FlashPilot
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Andi wrote:

Now with UCLp Lens @1m = 48000 lux.

I could use a few 59mm UCL lenses also. Got a link where you bought it?

Andi
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I bought the biggest UCLp Lens at flashlightlens, then i used a saw/file to made it 59mm.

(Printed a template and used a permanent marker to paint on the protective coat)

....another one has used a lathe for doing this.

 

note: it´s UCLp, not UCL Wink

 

 

 

FlashPilot
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Thanks for the tip. I thought the UCL "p" in your post was a typo.Undecided Acrylic will be a lot easier to work with than glass for most people.

http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=UCL...

I wonder if an AR coated camera filter would work?

Andi
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Oh, new´s on flashlightlens.com:

"ALL ACRYLIC MATERIAL (IR, Acrylite, Hardcoat, and AR Acrylic) CAN BE CUSTOM CUT TO ANY SIZE OR SHAPE!! - Contact us for details"


Wink

 

ups, 100 pieces min.

 

mitro
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I just got one of these and wanted to backup 2100's numbers. I'm getting between 45K and 46K (measured @ 10m and calculated back to 1m).

Andi wrote:

Oh, new´s on flashlightlens.com:

"ALL ACRYLIC MATERIAL (IR, Acrylite, Hardcoat, and AR Acrylic) CAN BE CUSTOM CUT TO ANY SIZE OR SHAPE!! - Contact us for details"


Wink

 

ups, 100 pieces min.

I'm in for 5. Silly We need to find more people!
willie
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mitro wrote:

I just got one of these and wanted to backup 2100's numbers. I'm getting between 45K and 46K (measured @ 10m and calculated back to 1m).

Andi wrote:

Oh, new´s on flashlightlens.com:

"ALL ACRYLIC MATERIAL (IR, Acrylite, Hardcoat, and AR Acrylic) CAN BE CUSTOM CUT TO ANY SIZE OR SHAPE!! - Contact us for details"


Wink

 

ups, 100 pieces min.

I'm in for 5. Silly We need to find more people!

I want a lens too!
ohaya
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2100 wrote:

It has 2 groups of modes, a 3 mode and a 5 mode. How it does this is that the head takes -ve from both the body tube as well as from the top of the tube. The driver has a ring of contact which sense the top part of the ring.  If just unscrewed a bit (the top part of the tube) the driver ring loses contact and changes into another mode.   Cool.

Hi,

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I just received one of these todays (2 years late I guess), and:

- Can figure out how to access the groups per above?
- The one I got has a longer tube and a shorter tube. Does the “shorty” require a tube from a different light? I tried several of my C8 tubes (a bunch) and they’re all too small diameter.

Thanks,
Jim

Tecmo
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Head loose will have different modes than head tight. The second small tube can be taken off to run 3xCR123 or 2×18500.

ohaya
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Tecmo wrote:
Head loose will have different modes than head tight. The second small tube can be taken off to run 3xCR123 or 2×18500.

When you say “head” do you mean from the part just in front (towards the bezel) of that kind of knurled “knob”? Or can it separate further forward (towards the bezel)?

If the former, I’ve tried that, and still get 5 modes.

ohaya
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Also, BTW, I’m measuring ~1.42 amps tailcap current (jumper battery to body). Is that normal for this light?

Tecmo
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ohaya wrote:
Also, BTW, I’m measuring ~1.42 amps tailcap current (jumper battery to body). Is that normal for this light?

Yes, that is 2.84a total (1.42a from each battery)

As for the modes question I am away from it right now and I’m not sure. Here is a review which may answer your questions.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3246
ohaya
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Tecmo wrote:
ohaya wrote:
Also, BTW, I’m measuring ~1.42 amps tailcap current (jumper battery to body). Is that normal for this light?

Yes, that is 2.84a total (1.42a from each battery)

As for the modes question I am away from it right now and I’m not sure. Here is a review which may answer your questions.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3246

Tecmo,

Reviewed that thread, and it doesn’t provide more info about changing the groups.

Is it possible that the one that I got doesn’t have the two groups?

Edit: To be clear, I’m only getting the 5-mode group (H-M-L-Strobe-SOS). I can’t get the 3-mode group.

Edit 2: Also, how do you get the pill out of this light?

I was looking at the driver end of the pill, and the pill has a kind of angled edge, while the front edge of the battery tube has a kind of thick edge.

I’m guessing that the way that the groups work is that if the tube is screwed in to the point that the end of the tube goes past the rearmost edge of the pill, that does something to activate the 3-mode group.

So, I’m wondering if maybe either the pill is too far forward, or maybe I’m not screwing the tube into the head far enough? I’ve tried with some nitrile gloves, but still can’t get the 3 mode group.

Tecmo
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Sounds like you are on the right track, I’m pretty sure head tight is the 3 mode.

ohaya
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Tecmo wrote:
Sounds like you are on the right track, I’m pretty sure head tight is the 3 mode.

I don’t know. I think that there’s something wrong with this light :(.

I took it apart, including the pill from the head and reflector.

It looks like the front end of the tube is suppose to be able to be screwed all the way into the angled edge of the pill, and that’s probably what makes the light go into the 3-mode group.

BUT with the light completely apart, that angled edge of the pill won’t fit into front end of the tube, which may be what’s causing the problem.

ohaya
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Bump… Has anyone else had problems getting this light into the 3-mode group? If so, how to fix the problem?

Also, on the one that I have, the lens is loose, and rattles. I’ve tried unscrewing the bezel ring, and checked that the O-ring is ok, and re-tightened several times, but it still rattles?

Thanks,
Jim

shrick
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2100 wrote:

150mm super shorty mode, with 2 × 18350 IMRs inside.  Measurement 1.35A, so the IMRs do not really sag.  This is probably the shortest non-custom thrower with the highest lumen around.  As you can see, the Ultrafire has HA and the Fandyfire head has no HA.  No issue, they feel the same, such is the quality.   It is no Surefire, but not sure what would you wanna complain for 46 bucks shipped.  So it can run 2 × 18350 super shorty, 2 × 18500 shorty and 2 × 18650 normal.

BTW, Dereelight DBS V3 tube and tailcap also fits, but gotta take out the clip.

asd

 

Can somebody identify this light?

shrick
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Seems like 2100 is not very active on the forum anymore. I’m looking for this form factor light as a long range 1 × 18650 gun light.

sesgum
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shrick
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sesgum wrote:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35684

Thanks susgum… I’m looking for something less expensive, but that’s some good figures from the Olight.

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