tangsfire hd2010

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scramblinglight
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tangsfire hd2010

hi guys, got a tangsfire hd2010 ,run amp test 26650 keeppower unprotected 30a pulse 20amp constant ,got 3.05 amp from emitter,then ran 3 diffrent 18650 panasonic protected 3400mah got 7.02 to 7.05 amp draw ?

Muto
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scramblinglight wrote:
hi guys, got a tangsfire hd2010 ,run amp test 26650 keeppower unprotected 30a pulse 20amp constant ,got 3.05 amp from emitter,then ran 3 diffrent 18650 panasonic protected 3400mah got 7.02 to 7.05 amp draw ?

Got one also and your first reading is close to the real current, I measured 3.85 amps at the tailcap on a good 18650.
No way a Panasonic protected will pass over 7 amps without tripping the protection, unless the protection is whacked. But the driver is not delivering that anyway, so the question becomes, is your battery possibly low on your Multi Meter?

My Tangsfire was real dusty, like it had been stored on a shelf for a few years, how was yours?
Thanks,
Keith

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

wight
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Muto wrote:
[snip] No way a Panasonic protected will pass over 7 amps without tripping the protection, unless the protection is whacked. But the driver is not delivering that anyway, so the question becomes, is your battery possibly low on your Multi Meter? [snip]
Good call!

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

scramblinglight
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yes i know doesnt make any sense, driver would do good to even get 4amps ,i retested the keeppowers after again
and still got a little over 3amps,back to back test cant explain y but 3 panasonics bad pcb board ? ,
maybe not testing right ,test right on the wires on emitter ,only hold on a few seconds ?
on tail i get about 2.3 amps, + lead on body where threads are ,- lead on battery end ?
thanks for the replys

wight
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scramblinglight wrote:
yes i know doesnt make any sense, driver would do good to even get 4amps ,i retested the keeppowers after again
and still got a little over 3amps,back to back test cant explain y but 3 panasonics bad pcb board ? ,
maybe not testing right ,test right on the wires on emitter ,only hold on a few seconds ?
on tail i get about 2.3 amps, + lead on body where threads are ,- lead on battery end ?
thanks for the replys
I am unable to follow exactly what you are describing. Sorry. Maybe try posting again with better composition. It is easier for me to understand what you are saying when you are very specific, verbose, and as grammatically correct as possible.

It does sound like you are doing something wrong. Tail current and emitter current should be the same with either a DD or linear driver. I’m pretty certain that you’d have one of those two types of driver in that light.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Muto
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Location: Southeast, PA
scramblinglight wrote:
yes i know doesnt make any sense, driver would do good to even get 4amps ,i retested the keeppowers after again and still got a little over 3amps,back to back test cant explain y but 3 panasonics bad pcb board ? , maybe not testing right ,test right on the wires on emitter ,only hold on a few seconds ? on tail i get about 2.3 amps, + lead on body where threads are ,- lead on battery end ? thanks for the replys

It seems you are just pushing the DMM probes onto the emitter wires and not actually removing the emitter lead from the circuit and connecting it through the DMM and back to the emitter pad.

In order to test current, the current must go through the DMM, having the DMM in series, not connecting in parallel.
No where did you mention un-hooking the wires from the emitter star, so this led me this conclusion.

When you are measuring at the tailcap the current is going through DMM and you are getting a reading within normal range.

Now, if you did in fact put it in series at the emitter, then I have no clue as to the wonky readings.

HTH
Keith

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

scramblinglight
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Location: northeast

thanks for the reply Muto,glad you understood me , yes didn’t unsolder the lead to emitter, didn’t really know how to test ,i do now thanks, on the tailcap i put red lead on the threads of the body, black on the battery, i am only getting about1.85 amps on my 18650, 2.10 amps on the 26650 keeppowers, that’s low isn’t it, thought i read some where you double that the numbers ? if not maybe my tester is not working right?
thanks again Muto

wight
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Location: Virginia, USA

Try switching to thick leads. Stock leads (on any DMM regardless of brand/model) will do nothing but muddy the water.

Here is some information:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/6091
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/18279
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25355

You can also look into braiding the springs, but you won’t get real measurements without heavy gauge DMM wires.

If you’d like help with your driver post clear pictures of it, front and back. Post the markings on anything which is not legible in the picture.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

scramblinglight
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Location: northeast

thanks wight,i looked at the driver is east 092 drive ,
other numbers dtu
06n03
dd38u
on the bigger chip
none of my other lights read real high on tailcap either
maybe my tester is the problem,i’ll try the wires thanks

wight
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Location: Virginia, USA

You’re welcome! Replacement leads will change your results, but we won’t know by how much until you do it. The large item marked DTU 06n03 is the FET, 06n03 is the part number. Searching around the forum for 06n03 will turn up some results as to whether that’s the “good” East-092 or not, I am not sure which is which with those.

I think you’ve got the “good” one, but none of the East-092 drivers are considered the ultimate DD drivers anymore.

Ah, I see over here – comfychair says that is the good part #: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34981#comment-664441

Anyway if you’re interested in building something that goes even more DD you could take a look at the BLF17DD – BLF17DD Info Thread – Reference.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

scramblinglight
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Joined: 11/06/2014 - 19:51
Posts: 8
Location: northeast

thanks i will ,i got some heavy gauge silicone wires from rc hobby ,i’ll make a set and see,thanks

Muto
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Location: Southeast, PA
scramblinglight wrote:
thanks i will ,i got some heavy gauge silicone wires from rc hobby ,i’ll make a set and see,thanks

No need to order anything fancy, 18 gauge speaker wire will do fine, short leads soldered right to the board or if you must, to some good quality banana jacks.
And braid that driver spring!
HTH
Keith

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards