17mm & 20/26/27mm single-sided DD/FET driver release: A17DD-SO8 / A20DD-SO8 / etc

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hideehoo
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Any chance you could scale these up to a 26mm and 27mm version? I have a couple six and nine XM-L 3S 26650 lights that have been sitting on the shelf (seriously under driven) that I’m thinking of turning into 3S2P and 3S3P DD monsters like Ouchyfoot did in this thread.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/31191

Would love to use this new board (zener modded of course) without an additional contact board for a clean install.


wight
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hideehoo wrote:
Any chance you could scale these up to a 26mm and 27mm version? I have a couple six and nine XM-L 3S 26650 lights that have been sitting on the shelf (seriously under driven) that I’m thinking of turning into 3S2P and 3S3P DD monsters like Ouchyfoot did in this thread.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/31191

Would love to use this new board (zener modded of course) without an additional contact board for a clean install.

https://flic.kr/p/q5Sa2h
https://flic.kr/p/pbdxzt

Yes, I don’t see why not. Where did they come up with 27mm? 26mm is a somewhat standard size, what’s the next normal size up from that? 27, 28, or 30mm?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

hideehoo
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Thanks wight!

The 27mm guy (actually more like 27.1) is out of Trustfire 9xT6, it fits tight on the OD and the inner shelf lip is pretty thin

but I tried the 26mm (which measured from 26.1mm to 26.4mm) TR-0169D driver out of the other light, an Ultrafire 6xT6, and it didn’t fall through so a single 26mm board that is maybe a tad oversized (sand to fit for exactly 26mm) will probably work fine in both lights.

Both lights have large retaining rings with much smaller positive spring holes. The 9xT6 is 10mm with a 20mm insulator diameter underneath.

The 6xT6 is 16mm and solid aluminum.

ImA4Wheelr
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^ That's a fairly popular driver in the 9x and 12x lights.  I know Krono and B42 have recently been frustrated trying to mod theirs.  I mildly modded mine, but intend to replace it with a DD-type driver.  If you make a 27mm available, you will essentially be forcing me to jump on this single-sided driver ride of yours much earlier than I had planned.

wight
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

^ That’s a fairly popular driver in the 9x and 12x lights.  I know Krono and B42 have recently been frustrated trying to mod theirs.  I mildly modded mine, but intent to replace it with a DD-type driver.  If you make a 27mm available, you will essentially be forcing me to jump on this single-sided driver ride of yours much earlier than I planned.

Based on hideehoo’s info above, I’m thinking 26mm with 4 nubs to take it out to 27mm (which add no cost since they fit in the OSH Park ‘rectangle’) will be the way to go. Do you see any reason not to go that direction?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

hideehoo
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Sounds good to me. Should be able to do both lights with only OSH Park order then.

ImA4Wheelr
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wight wrote:

Based on hideehoo’s info above, I’m thinking 26mm with 4 nubs to take it out to 27mm (which add no cost since they fit in the OSH Park ‘rectangle’) will be the way to go. Do you see any reason not to go that direction?

I just measured my 9xT6.  The driver ledge opening is 25mm.  The driver bay is 27mm.  So I agree with hideehoo.  That approach should work fine.

wight
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OK, sounds like a winner.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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I expanded the diameter to 26mm and added 0.5mm tall nubs on the “corners.” That brings the driver out to 27mm. The process of adding the nubs has made the primary outline very slightly not-true, so depending on where you measure it you may have 26.05mm or something like that.

Since there was space I also added resist-covered pads for Pin3 (on/off output or analog input such as for temp sensor) and Pin5 (PWM output or analog input). This driver should work fine with dual-PWM firmwares where 7135’s are slaved off of Pin5 for regulated modes of any kind, including low moonlights or whatever.


https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/23l1RQ5V

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

ImA4Wheelr
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Ordered a set.  Thank you wight!

EDIT: Ordered the components I need from Mouser.  Looking forward to trying one of these bad boys.. 

hank
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> a $20-$40 1500W heat gun with good results. (Milwaukee MHT3300)

Hm, closest thing Milwaukee has now looks like it costs well over $100. Sigh.

wight
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hank wrote:
> a $20-$40 1500W heat gun with good results. (Milwaukee MHT3300)

Hm, closest thing Milwaukee has now looks like it costs well over $100. Sigh.

Not to worry. Big Smile Milwaukee probably didn’t make the thing anyway, based on the recall notice it was manufactured by Wagner. In fact, the housing and controls of the Wagner HT3500 look identical in form/function to my Milwaukee MHT3300. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-HT3500-1500-Watt-Digital-Heat-Gun-0503...

I’m definitely not saying that it’s the best way to do it, but a big heat gun is a handy tool for DIY’ers. Laminating foam, peeling adhesives, softening other materials, etc.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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Already got components from DigiKey and stencils from OSHStencils, so I'm ready to go! Smile

Thanks wight, nice looking layout, liking the big pads a lot! Wink

DB Custom
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With the diode having the numbers 41 on it, and the 1 being where we would normally expect a line, does this line or 1 go to the point of the triangle?

wight
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The line goes towards the point. There should also be a line between the pad and the MCU.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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I looked up the datasheet on the diode and went with it. Smile

The diode is marked with a 41. The "1" goes closest to the Zener pad and towards the MCU, the "4" is closest to the R1 pad and towards the 10uF cap. 

Tried to look at your picture to see how you had oriented it on yours but the image wasn't clear enough to tell.

wight
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DBCstm wrote:

I looked up the datasheet on the diode and went with it. Smile

The diode is marked with a 41. The “1” goes closest to the Zener pad and towards the MCU, the “4” is closest to the R1 pad and towards the 10uF cap. 

Tried to look at your picture to see how you had oriented it on yours but the image wasn’t clear enough to tell.

The one in the picture is a SOD-723, which makes it harder to see since it’s so small. If I recall correctly it may not have been marked, I had to test it with my DMM to figure out the polarity. Either way you sure can’t tell from my picture. Wink

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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Please check this, you might be able to tell from this picture…

It can be clicked on for a larger view. Wink

Rufusbduck
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Caps crooked. Silly
Edit – Dang nice work Dale.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

nitro
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Does that look nice Dale, i cant wait till i get my boards and parts and the best part my newer version of the 2008D

DB Custom
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It was destiny, Kester EP256 style. Smile

Thank you sir. I LOVE using solder paste masks from OSHStencils! Smile I MIGHT could have done it almost that neat, but this single sided board is just so easy with the stencil…

wight
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DBCstm wrote:
Please check this, you might be able to tell from this picture…

http://imageshack.com/a/img673/2258/fQl22f.jpg
It can be clicked on for a larger view. Wink

Looks fine to me. Resistors and diode are placed correctly, so is the MCU. Since the caps are unmarked we must assume that they are placed correctly. Is that glare, or is there some sort of (white) flux residue around the FET’s tab?

DoF appears to be very tiny in that shot! ~2.0mm I think?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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So, in this normal configuration, can that Zener pad closest to the outer ground ring be used to solder a ground lead wire to, for establishing ground inside the pill with a screw instead of worry about press fit connection or outside soldering?

DB Custom
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That’s a stacked image. Smile

wight
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DBCstm wrote:
So, in this normal configuration, can that Zener pad closest to the outer ground ring be used to solder a ground lead wire to, for establishing ground inside the pill with a screw instead of worry about press fit connection or outside soldering?
The Zener is OK for that. For my purposes I’ve been using the outer 3 legs of the FET – this makes for a larger and sturdier connection area for your GND wire.

DBCstm wrote:
That’s a stacked image. Smile
Crazy! I should expected as much. Smile

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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That’s just solder around the FET, showing the white table it’s sitting on.

I only stacked 2 images, was taking a quick shot and did it by hand instead of setting up the tripod with the Macro rail on it.

All 3 outer legs are ground? Ok, that’ll work too. I was just thinking that big square pad sitting there with solder on it would be a good place for a ground wire. Keep it thin, with nothing under the wire as it were.

wight
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DBCstm wrote:
I was just thinking that big square pad sitting there with solder on it would be a good place for a ground wire. Keep it thin, with nothing under the wire as it were.
I definitely don’t see a problem with doing that.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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wight wrote:
hank wrote:
> a $20-$40 1500W heat gun with good results. (Milwaukee MHT3300)

Hm, closest thing Milwaukee has now looks like it costs well over $100. Sigh.

Not to worry. Big Smile Milwaukee probably didn’t make the thing anyway, based on the recall notice it was manufactured by Wagner. In fact, the housing and controls of the Wagner HT3500 look identical in form/function to my Milwaukee MHT3300. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-HT3500-1500-Watt-Digital-Heat-Gun-0503...

I’m definitely not saying that it’s the best way to do it, but a big heat gun is a handy tool for DIY’ers. Laminating foam, peeling adhesives, softening other materials, etc.

While we’re on the topic.. another option might be the “1500 Watt 12 Interval Heat Gun” from HF, Item#69343. It’s (constant) ‘sale’ price is $29.99, couple that with the standard 25%-off-on-a-single-item coupon and you’ve got $22.49. Features seem similar to the Wagner tool, but who knows.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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Have you tested this with the Zener? Pull the standard diode and replace it with the 200ohm as usual, then do the math on the resistors for maintaining low voltage protection, right?

Realized I have an Olight M3X en-route, with an XM-L emitter and a 700 lumen rating. I also have an MT-G2 sitting around waiting for a home. 2 of em actually….

wight
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DBCstm wrote:
Have you tested this with the Zener? Pull the standard diode and replace it with the 200ohm as usual, then do the math on the resistors for maintaining low voltage protection, right?

Realized I have an Olight M3X en-route, with an XM-L emitter and a 700 lumen rating. I also have an MT-G2 sitting around waiting for a home. 2 of em actually….

I have not tested this with a Zener. I have only tested 1s setups. You’re correct though, replace D1 with a 200ohm resistor and then do the LVP math and you should be golden.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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