Do you still own any non LED powered lights?

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HareLantern
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Katherine Alicia wrote:
HareLantern wrote:
Those are ace. How do you keep the switches in good order? A lot of them look like the riveted type.

Mostly just regular use tends to keep the switches working well, I did have to do some repairs when a few of them came and replaced some of the corroded brass and copper parts with pure silver sheet metal cut to shape, and of course liberal use of switch cleaner and elbow grease, but once they`re up and running, regular use keeps them in good working order.

They all run on protected Li-Ion batts as well Big Smile

Do you use Deoxit? I squirted some of the wrong type of a cheaper switch cleaner into one of my maglite switches and ended up having to tear it apart and clean it out with isoprop. Works flawlessly now though.

turkeydance
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“Do you still own any non LED powered lights?”
yes.
for the reason Katherine already posted.
i am 9 years old again reading a book….
just not a comic book under the covers.

alpg88
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yea, i have several stock maglites, 2d 4d. and 1aa. surefire g3 mag 85, 200w hotwire mag. and several cheap 2d flashlights with bulbs that i keep as loaners, thou i do not use any of them on regular basis,

wle
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maglites i will prob eventually throw out
crank powered lights with incandescents
50 year old eveready lights

hand held battery powered black light fluorescent-several

old bike lights

i do not use any of them

wle

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jon_slider
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> Do you still own any non LED powered lights?

No, why?:-)

WTB: Lumintop FWAA

Jack Kellar
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Nope. The last incan I owned (a Duracell Durabeam, 2AA side by side) died a loooong time ago. I don’t believe I so much as touched an incan torch in the last 15 years at least, it’s all been LED for me. Moreso now with the warm white options in the market.

Katherine Alicia
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HareLantern wrote:

Do you use Deoxit? I squirted some of the wrong type of a cheaper switch cleaner into one of my maglite switches and ended up having to tear it apart and clean it out with isoprop. Works flawlessly now though.

Sorry for the delay I didn`t see this before, I use Servisol switch cleaner on mine, it`s cheaper and works well Wink
https://uk.farnell.com/servisol/super-servisol-10/cleaner-switch-contact...

HareLantern
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Katherine Alicia wrote:
Sorry for the delay I didn`t see this before, I use Servisol switch cleaner on mine, it`s cheaper and works well Wink https://uk.farnell.com/servisol/super-servisol-10/cleaner-switch-contact...

That stuff looks very good. I was always put off by the price of Deoxit. I ended up buying some other cheap stuff, Kontakt PR, and squirted some into one of my Mag C switches. Made it even worse. Had to strip down the switch completely and clean it with meths.

Katherine Alicia
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you have my sympathies, I had to strip down a Mag D switch assembly because an alkaleak ate away almost the entire + contact right into the assembly itself, they`re not the easiest things to understand when you first open them Smile
I made a new contact out of sheet silver and it`s all good again, but it wasn`t the Most fun I`v had repairing a light! LOL

HareLantern
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Leading cause of death for old Maglites, the alkaleak. Aluminium + caustic potash is always such an enthusiastic reaction.

I have an itch to build another hotwire Mag. My 5761 3C mod is already starting to feel a little anaemic, and my pal has promised me his old 3D he’s not using, once he gets around to finding it. But just how much juice can a standard Mag switch stand before it starts getting all melty and burny inside?

Katherine Alicia
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HareLantern wrote:
But just how much juice can a standard Mag switch stand before it starts getting all melty and burny inside?

That`s a really good question actually and I have no idea to be honest what it`s rated at, But with it being a fairly low voltage and a non-inductive load then contact arcing shouldn`t be much of an issue, having looked at the insides of a D assembly I would say no more than about 5A constant. I`d like to be wrong though because 5A wont really buy you much without cranking up the voltage.

HareLantern
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The Philips 5761 is rated at 30W for 6V, and seems happy enough at 7.2-8.1V, so I guess we’re looking at around 4A in that case?

I’m thinking my next mod would involve a fivemega 6.35 ceramic socket with a 100W Osram HLX64623 running at 12V. That’s a whole lot more amps, but removing the plastic tower would leave room to put a mosfet in there.

And just to be extra silly, if I could find a suitable aspheric to put on the front..?

id30209
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Katherine Alicia wrote:
HareLantern wrote:
But just how much juice can a standard Mag switch stand before it starts getting all melty and burny inside?
That`s a really good question actually and I have no idea to be honest what it`s rated at, But with it being a fairly low voltage and a non-inductive load then contact arcing shouldn`t be much of an issue, having looked at the insides of a D assembly I would say no more than about 5A constant. I`d like to be wrong though because 5A wont really buy you much without cranking up the voltage.

 

You’re right. 5A is what Mag switch can take it unless you modify to momentary only and add Jimmy’s PhD on top of the switch with removed tower...and with FM 6.35 Brass socket...

Oh god, can’t wait to get home and light it up. 
i owe this thread photos and build notes...

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Colonel Light
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I think having one around is good for reference purposes. I bought a 7.2v Xenon UltraFire WF-502B (and an extra 3.7v Xenon drop-in) ten or more years ago and I still keep it just in case I want to see what 100 CRI looks like.
Pretty useless as a torch with a small hotspot with not much spill, and being too demanding on low drain cells.

Sirstinky
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I still have a Streamlight Stinger from 2007? Maybe sooner. It was my first ‘serious’ flashlight and was as bright as a 4D Mag and a lot smaller. Really popular with police officers. It still works awesome, just need to get new battery packs.

amtaham
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Tiger brand and Aoki flashlight featuring their younger brother, Lumintop EDC05 Big Smile

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I have two Victorian oil lamps, one is modern (late 1990’s), the other belonged to my Great Grandmother and dates back to the early 20th century (still works).

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alpg88
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i already mentioned inc. lights, but forgot about my hid navy battle lantern conversion, do not use it much either, just sits on a shelf,

smallfry
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Hi, I'm new here. I have two 2d maglites, one 6d maglite, three 2aa mini mags, one 3aaa mini mag and a solitaire. I also have a 2d rayovac industrial and a 4aa something. All are incans.

Jabe1
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I still have six incan flashlights and two Coleman propane lanterns.
One 3D Mag 85.
One 2cC Mag ROP
One old Rayovac from the 30s with a magnum star 5cell bulb and 6aa nimh cells
One old eveready (?) 3D “miner’s” light running a halogen bulb on 6aa nimh.
One Surefire e2e stock because the beam is fantastic.
Lastly, a Maglite Solitaire so I don’t forget how it used to be…

I still use them all; probably the ROP the most, because with the lop FM reflector, the beam is perfect.

CNCman
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Two 2 x AA Mini Maglight and one 2 xAA inspection light.

zoulas
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I have two 3D maglights. Worthless.

I have a bunch of 2AA maglights. Worthless.

I have two AAA maglights, solitaire or whatever. These were worthless even before the LED was ever invented .

Times have changed, do we want to live in the past or the future? Although, I have no intention of ever going to Mars.

Lightbringer
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zoulas wrote:
I have no intention of ever going to Mars.

 

Still got a coupla hotwire P60s. In a pinch, they’ll work right through another Carrington Event if need be.

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gravelmonkey
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Being a pedant, my lights are NiMh and Li-ion powered Wink

But yes, P60 xenon drop-in in a Solarforce L1T host is quite nice, something quite satisfying about the beam, it’s also handy for informal comparisons to lower CCT LEDs.

pennzy
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I have a bunch of MagLites that sit empty in a closet. Never could bring myself to upgrade them because it costs more than a new Led light. Might keep the largest in the car for a thumper.

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